Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
I've got a '06 CTTS with P0344. Swapped sensors and it stays on Bank 1. My deviation is around -13 on Bank 1 and -2 on Bank 2. Seems like Bank 1 is either the one that goes or is supposed to be further out? Occasionally Bank 1 won't even give a reading, and then when it starts reading again I can clear the code. Traced the Bank 1 sensor wires as good to the ECU so it has to be the cam adjuster or Timing chain, tensioners, guides worn? 100,000k miles. Seems like it should last longer than this. I do change the oil every 7~9k with a top quality synthetic.
I might be late to your problem but I'm wondering if the Waterpump bearing failed and not only did it destroy the seal but may have seized and caused the belt to fail too.
Can't say for sure. With it restarting it originally sounded like a loose MOST connector to me. They are crappy connectors and if you have anything aftermarket like a Mobridge, IPod adpater, etc... it introduces more connections. The thing that I am not familiar with is the popping. It may be a failing unit. I do have a late ('08 manufactured unit, out of my '06CTTS in good shape (Shameless plug, haven't bothered to Ebay it.)). One thing about a used unit. You will loose or gain with whatever the replacement unit has coded. If you have Bose, you need a Bose unit, if you have Nav, you need a Nav unit, or both, etc... You could possibly loose or gain SAT, off-road package, Compass, etc... depending on how the replacement unit is coded. I lost the dash compass when the dealer replaced mine but didn't notice it for a few days and since they were 1.5hrs away I just accepted it. You can of course have a dealer code a replacement unit for what you want but that still will cost extra $$'s. Definitely pull your unit and check all connections first before spending the money on another unit.
You say "P" recommended? Porsche has never recommended a Bridgstone tire that I know of? With that said I am one that doesn't believe you need a Porsche recommended tire (N0, N1, etc..) Being in Cali, you probably have a "Americas Tire", check their website and search by size, make sure you check the box for a "XL" rated tire as that is what you need, and go with a speed rating of "V', "W", or "Y".
hahnmgh63 replied to DSPTurtle's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)PM me Michael6774 with your E-mail address and I can send it to you. Mark
Mines a '06 CTTS and the XM module is under the passenger seat, not back by the CD changer. The only module back there is the Air Suspension module on mine.
You can't retrofit a PCM 2 into a PCM 2.1 unless you want to change out the whole system. It would be a degrade going from DVD drive to CD drive and for maps that haven't been supported in 10yrs.
Exactly what Loren said, Oil from the filters, even though the particle size is small, can roast itself on the Mass Flow sensor wires over time and throw off the readings, not necessarily enough to throw a code in many instances. I've seen it many times in the VAG world.
Sad there are people like that. They don't know cars. I had a 996 Turbo a few years ago that came up with a P0420 code, thankfully I don't do emissions but just run a scan occasionally. In my case it was time for plugs so I swapped in new ones, cleared the codes and it never came back. Of course many things can drive that code, plugs, rear O2's, etc...
A 2004 would be a PCM2.0 so no. You just need to match it with a PCM 2.1 (2005-2008, '06-'08 preferred as they have the phone button and most '05's didn't). If you have Bose and Nav, you need to get one with Bose and Nav. I had a BE6655 and replaced it with a BE6693. My BE6693 is a 17/08 manufactured unit, my Pig is a early '06 CTTS. Options like Sat radio, backup camera, off-road Nav, compass, CD changer are coded into the head unit. So your replacement may have more or less things coded into it when you replace it. I lost my dash compass and off-road Nav but didn't realize it until I was driving home from having the dealer code it for the backup camera. Dealer is 2+hrs away so I never went back.
That's a good one. Some type of Thermoresistor? Is there a part number on it anywhere?
The shift lever assembly is going bad is not un-common. Some have repaired their assemblies but if it faults again I'd just purchase a new one. Not too expensive from Sunset or Sonnen Porsche.
Looks like a K40 Laser jammer. Not the best one out there.
I've got a 2006 CTTS and I did the fluid/filter at 50K with Redline D4, I'm at 98K now so I'm gonna do it again at 100K. Shifts great hot or cold. When I did it at 50K I used Durametric to make sure I got it at the correct temperature and then I reset the TCU adaption at the same time.
And as nerdtalker said, the two T's at the back of the engine are a pain to replace but just as likely to crack as were the plastic Coolant pipes. They are tough to replace but either replace them while you're in there with new stock pieces (fairly cheap and come with hoses attached) or install some Stainless T's as the plastic ones will fail again someday.