hahnmgh63

Depending on how many cars you have and how much work you do (sounds like you do a bit), one of my greatest tools is my Snapon BK6000 Video inspection camera. It will fit down the plug hole where you can inspect the cylinders, and with the mirror attachment you can look backup at the valves. Slowly crank the engine by hand and you can see all of the valve seats. You can see imperfections, scrapes & scratches in the cylinder walls. It has telescopic capability and variable lighting. I have inspected the cylinders in all of my older vehicles. See if the dealer has something similar, I would think so.

Lets see the software version page. I think what you have is PCM2.0 with software version 3.0. The PCM2.0 is CD based and the later PCM2.1 is DVD based, PCM3.0 is Hard drive based.

As far as the Air Suspension, I would just get in it and start it up. Then press the button forward to raise it all the way to the special terrain level position, once there lower it all the way to the bottom, then raise it up to Normal level again. This should be enough to check the positions and by raising it up twice it should use enough air to cause the compressor to engage. Do it with the passenger side window down so you can be sure you hear the compressor kick on.

Any chance you have Durametric so you can check it for codes? If so, take it for a test drive an check most controls including the suspension and check it for codes after your drive just in case the seller cleared codes before your arrival.

It does seem to be a good deal. Most of that noise your hearing with the hood up is just the injectors firing, not the lifters as many think. I know buying a Porsche new or used in Germany is less expensive that the rest of us pay but it still seems to be a good deal. I know there is a Porsche dealer across the river off the 661, if you are a little nervous then take it there for a Pre-purchase Inspection. There is a great Go-kart track close to the dealer where you could kill some time and Euro's while waiting for it to get done.

I doubt it, the wiring harness is probably pin'd differently for the level sensors and such. I would check Ebay.de or whatever is closer to you. To keep them looking good, after your done washing your Cayenne and drying it off, wax the headlight covers with a quality Wax or Polymer synthetic Wax. The light pattern and brightness of the Halogens is noticeable not as good as the HID's.

RacerX5, 2006 is PCM2.1 and should be Level B software. You can probably upgrade your software to a newer version but you should be able to use the Mobridge or Dension as you should have the two phone buttons in the top left corner of your unit.

There are a lot of Cayenne's out there. Many with over 200K or even 300K miles on them. Yes, it seems that the scored Block issue is only the 'S' versions. The Turbos do have different pistons and the Piston squirters that spray up from the bottom so they do get oil on the Block. One problem may also be that Porsche had a 20K oil change interval, kind of ridiculous. Most do much less, 8K with a top quality Synthetic for me. Porsche has shortened the interval on the later Cayenne's but maybe they didn't shorten the interval on the earlier ones as that may have made them liable for a bad first decision?

Just an FYI, my options sticker is in the trunk. It is there on my 911 and 944T.

Depends on what your options sticker say's. It was an option. You may have the center console switch but without the locking diff, pushing the switch to lock the rear diff does nothing.

Exactly. The airline is for the air intake to the Air Suspension compressor so it gets clean filtered air. So no Air Suspension, no air line to the right side air cleaner.

I find no receptions problems with my '06 CTTS on AM/FM but the Satellite radio reception does suck when driving through Forests. Where the Porsche completely looses signal my Audi will just keep playing. The Audi Sharkfin antenna is a much better antenna.

Just bought one 6 months ago for my CTTS as I found the same thing as you, deteriorating bushings at 65K miles. Got it from Sonnen $128.95. The replacement was painted/anodized Black and my original was unpainted.

Hawk make good pads. I'm partial to EBC Yellow pads which are designed for performance cars and heavy SUV's.

The breather can cause that but Porsche also say's to drain & clean the lower intercooler hoses at the major service intervals, 20K.

There were later revisions of the TCU and valve body. I've heard the Sonax modified/improved valve body has helped many of the earlier 955's but Porsche say's to install the newer software TCU with a new Valve body, but the TSB has to do with hard upshifts/downshifts. But that does tell me that there is newer TCU software. I know there are versions that are backwards compatible/improved but someone more knowledgeable here can probably say which version will work.

I don't think you have much of a choice but to get the Durametric software and install it on a laptop. If you plan on keeping your Cayenne or have another '96 or later Porsche then it is a must anyways. If not, maybe you can find a local Porsche dealer that will do a Scan of your car with their PIWIS machine for free or at a discount?

At least over here in the states they are only about $60 new OEM.

Never heard of it happen on a Cayenne except when rear ended.

Nice job, it looks the same as my CTTS and I'm sure Porsche would have charged 5 times that.

Also no personal interest on the Driveshafts sold by Lindsey Racing although I've had some great dealings with them on other parts. They don't make the Driveshafts that they sell, they are made by a reputable Custom Driveshaft company here: http://www.driveshaftshop.com/ Although yes, I would like to see some data on the actual Cayenne Driveshaft. I like the idea of it being lighter and stronger but I can't imagine it will last any less than an OEM driveshaft. My old '84 Ford F-250 Diesel has a little over 200K on the original Driveshaft and it uses the old U-joints rather than CV's.

Yea, unless you have a Hydraulic press, one of the better Harbor Freight ones should do, then you would need to take the whole cradle to a machine shop and have them press out the old and press in the new.

P.S. If you take it to a machine shop tell them it for a VW, they'll probably charge you less than if you tell them it's for a Porsche.

He's talking about the new Vertex designed bearing that goes around the shaft in 2pcs so you don't have to remove the CV I believe, just cut off the old one. One of the earlier users complained about more vibration being transmitted but it may have been an install issue as a later user said it was as quiet as OEM.

With mine there was no notice and failed around 65K. I inspected mine about every 3 months (I have a lift) and saw no signs of impending failure.

Just because the Recirculation is off doesn't mean the Fresh-Air flapper is open. The little motor that runs it are known to go bad. You need to pull the under floor cover on the Passenger side and push the button while you watch the motor/flapper and see if it is opening and closing. If you have Durametric it will show a code if it is failed also.

95534113301 and bolts 2x N90998701 and 2x N91009302 not sure about the specs though. Bushings $38.59 each from Sonnen and the bolts just under $3 each.