hahnmgh63

Haven't even installed my .09's yet and they have to come out with another revision, oh well.

P.S. Great reading by the way, thanks for posting.

Your dealer is full of it. Not a Porsche dealer I take it? You have Level A software which on your model cab be updated to a later Level B software so you can use the newest (post mid to late 2005-on) Navigation discs. With the software you have you can only use up to early 2005 Navigation discs.

The post above does say "SE / SL" and then it say's the SE type has no magnetic clutch, which may mean that the SL version does. With enough people looking, I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of this soon.

According to Sonnen's website, the part 94812601101 has been superseded to part # 95812601400

There was another thread on the compressor where some said our didn't have a clutch although my '06CTTS has a clutch on the OEM Denso compressor with the standard single power wire to engage/disengage it. You either have to jump the low pressure switch or power the clutch to get the compressor to spin with low pressure. The factory actually pulls a vacuum in the whole system with the engine off and fills directly with liquid (not gaseous) freon. If it was just a slight leak and never drained then you could easily top off with gas. But with 120 psi in the system it should be enough pressure that the low pressure switch shouldn't cut out.

The Secondary Air Injections (SAI) system only starts on a cold (or relatively cold) engine and runs for about 1 or 2 minutes to add extra air (almost 80% O2) to the relatively rich startup mixture to promote some afterburn and therefore a cleaner exhaust and the afterburn causes the primary Cats to come up to temp quicker. It is quite an elaborate system that only works for a few minutes a day but the EPA cycle starts from a cold start, even with that said they do use the SAI system worldwide by many manufacturers. If you can't hear a pitch difference or feel both of your SAI pumps running on startup on a cold start then something is causing them not to run. Could be a fluke of a bad or weak fuse, short, bad pump, etc... causing the fuse to blow.

Besides using a good pad also check with your installer on doing the proper break-in or your new pads. Most manufacturers have similar procedures, some (4 to 6) 50~60mph stops to 10~20mph without coming to a complete stop then continuing a few miles so the brakes can cool while driving. After that take it easy if you can for the first 100 miles or so.

I'd stay away from the Porsche pads unless you like lots of dust and a high price. I like EBC Yellows (stay away from the Reds for our heavy pigs), I'm sure you will get some more feedback on the pads. I've heard some good about Stoptech and Pagid makes some good pad compounds including some of the OEM pads.

Meyle is and OEM supplier as well as Zimmermann. The rotors they sell are usually OEM quality except... they usually don't come with the painted hubs like the OEM ones do. You can degrease them and paint the hubs yourself or find a brand that will sell you painted ones. Or just put up with the hubs rusting over but that doesn't look very good through a nice set of Alloy wheels.

I don't want to start an argument here but the Porsche shop manual lists the repair portion of the HVAC system as MY2003-2008 so it sounds like they're the same to me? Where is Loren when we need him :)

As far as the repair you are correct to worry about just the compressor replacement. Whoever you have do the repair needs to inspect the compressor to make sure there wasn't any damage which may have left damaged pieces in the system. The Porsche repair manual does talk about flushing the system to purge it but I'm not sure what type of equipment they use but it may be worth a call to the dealer and to the indy your looking at to ask the question.

I have a 2006 CTTS and just put it up on the lift, started it up with the A/C running. With the belly pan off I could see the compressor clutch engaging and disengaging every once in a while. I then switched on the Econ button and watched the compressor and their was no engagment of the clutch, just freewheeling so I would say it is as standard of and A/C auto system as you can find, no continuous operation which would make sense, it has to be able to switch off due to temp/pressure changes.

P.S. Looks to be the identical compressor in my 2003 Audi. Both Denso's.

That is correct, it, as in most all automobile AC compressors has an electric clutch at the front which the pulley bolts too. If you run the climate control panel in Econ and NOT auto, the compressor will remain disengaged and the pulley will turn freely.

P.S. I usually run my panel in Econ if the A/C is not needed for cooling or demisting. Saves on the system but you should always turn it on for at least 5 minutes every couple of weeks to circulate the freon and with it the oil to keep everything lubricated, especially the seals.

The fill plug is accessed from the bottom but it fills through a snorkel tube up into the pan. NelsonMX is correct that even though the Cayenne tranny is an Aisin and Audi uses ZF trannies the procedures are almost identical. Doing the pan and filter without pulling the ATF lines still gets 90% of the used oil, then just do it again in 40K. I haven't tried it with the Durametric but I'm sure you can get a temp reading, I used Vagcom and it worked great, and for anyone that wants to argue, the Touraeg & Audi Q7 use the exact same tranny and TCU so there is no problem with using Vagcom, at least on any module that is in common with the VAG cousin's. Next time I'll see if Durametric works.

As a caution, some tranny experts believe if you have a high mileage Auto box and the fluid hasn't been changed before then don't do it. There is a chance that the new fluid will break up some sludge and/or varnish in the box and possible cause it to plug some of the small orifices and ports in the valve body. Although Porsche does say swap the fluid at 160K I think, but by then if all goes wrong in a short time after doing it your not going to have luck proving that they are liable for problems.

My '06 CTTS (early) came with .05 Coils that are still going strong. I bought a set of .09 coils that I'm going to throw in with the 3rd set of plugs when it's time. Sonnen is still showing 94860210409 as the latest coil.

The Y-pipe in the front of the engine is where the throttle body bolts onto the Intake manifold. The Air travels back and forth in an S fashion from the Airboxes (air filters) to the MAF sensors (inline with the intake hoses) to the inlet of the Turbos, comes out of the Turbos under pressure now (so from here to the Y pipe is most likely where leaks occur because of the pressure) and goes into the Intercoolers (cools the hot compressed charge from the Turbos) and then travels up to the Y-pipe at the intake. So you have clamps/fittings (some with O-rings to seal) at the Turbo exit, intake and exhaust from the Intercoolers, and the small Bellows pipes you see on either side of the Y-pipe.

This is a little of a simplification but you get the idea. Check the easy ones first, clamps at the top by the Y-pipe, the Intercooler connections need to be accessed from underneath and each Wheel well. There are other places the Boost can leak (had your intake manifold off lately?)(Y-pipe cracked?), bad boost pressure sensor? Are you reading full boost on your gauge? You indicated you might. Find a deserted stretch of road, PSM off, up shift manually to 3rd gear as soon as it will let you then just floor it from the lower RPM and watch the Boost gauge climb under load (should be able to short shift to 3rd with less than 2K rpm's), should get full boost by 4K?

As Bigsuzuki said, I would question your cousin about shifting it in manual mode. Did he possibly downshift a little too aggressively? Do you have the mirror attachment to see the underside of the head to inspect the valves? Like I said, it would be great to inspect two cylinders so you have a visual comparison of the two. I have the Snapon BK5500 and it is a great analyzing tool.

If indeed it is a Valve indentation then I would also agree on an Over rev. Relatives.... Be sure what you see in an indentation caused by the valve and not a relief cut in the piston for valve clearance, not a bad idea to scope another cylinder so you can compare it to what your seeing. There are valve clearance relief cuts in the tops of the pistons for valve piston clearance under normal valve train timing (high lift valves). Out of timing the valves may still contact the pistons. If a piston has a noticeable valve dent in it then the piston strength is also compromised.

http://www.navtv.com/userfiles/editor/file/Porsche%20MOST%20Radio%20Replacement%20v2_2.pdf

It's a start, that way you can keep your amp and speakers. If you have Bose, I believe they use an odd proprietary resistance which is hard to match. I think if you do a search on here and Rennlist you will find a few that have done the head unit before.

The Boost gauge reads net pressure above Sealevel. Absolute would be adding 1.0 bar approximately to whatever the guage reading is. Porsche used to advertise that their Turbo vehicles would sustain maximum boost up to approximately 5000' of elevation before starting to drop off. Not sure if this is still true or higher? Anyone from upper elevations chime in? Denver, SLC?

I'm using the EBC Yellows on a CTTS and like them better than stock. Dust slightly less, no squeal, and cost less. I had a bad experience with using the Powerstop on an Audi years ago (warping) and haven't tried them again.

Yea, you want the GL5 or GL6 for your Differentials. And to darrinsmith, I'm using Redline 75w/90 in my front & rear Diffs and Redline D4 ATF in the transfer case & tranny. Shifts great. OEM diff fluid looked fairly worn after only 55K miles.

Looks like the right oil for the front & rear Diff. Like you said, not for the transfer case or tranny though.

PKN's idea is probably the best, rather than going back to the fragile OEM. It is just an air intake so under no pressure, nothing fancy needs to be done.

No good advice as mine broke trying to remove it. It isn't an electrical connector but and air intake hose that goes to the air compressor for the air suspension. I found a good used airbox on Ebay after mine snapped. The plastic gets fairly brittle after a few years.

That's one ugly looking filter. ****, now I'm probably going to do that too. Although both original fuel pumps on a '06 CTTS at 67K??? Maybe I should wait for one of the fuel pumps to go. Decisions, decisions.