hahnmgh63

As Mudman said:

Mobridge

Yes

No

I have the Mobridge in my Cayenne and I'm very happy with it. Not as good as the Nav/Bluetooth in my Audi (Audi syncs up everthing, Phonebook, missed & dialed calls, received calls). Mobridge only syncs up Phonebook and only logs missed, dialed & received calls made while your using it, not ones you've made on your phone away from the vehicle. Sound quality is quite good. I mounted my microphone (has a long cord) next to the overhead sunroof panel. Most mount the Mobridge under the glove box but I chose to mount it in the right rear compartment next to the CD player I had to remove anyways to plug the Mobridge in.

What about something as simple as a boost leak? Intercooler hose or intake hose to the throttle body Y pipe?

$93.28 from Sonnen

To each his own. I've seen mods that I think look like crap and some that I think look good but it doesn't mean that what one person does is right or wrong if they like it, it is good for them so don't pay attention to the bashers, their will always be some that don't like it and feel the need to tell the world their opinions. Congrats, I think it is a nice upgrade the way you did it, not taped or bolted on externally like some. Now you need some new LED taillights to upgrade the rear. There are two styles I'm looking at but I can't find a lot of info on them. The Spyder brand and the Eagle Eyes/Altezza/Ipex/maybe really Depo brand. They are fairly high quality manufacture but none of the sights show pics of all phases of operation. Braking, tail lights, turn signal on, back-up. Some use more LED's in certain phases and some have a couple of incandescents for back-up and/or turn signal operation.

http://www.carid.com/2005-porsche-cayenne-taillights/spyder-led-tail-lights-265199.html

http://reviews.turbometal.com/03-07-porsche-cayenne-led-tail-lights/

As Loren said you need a load test on the battery or batteries. I think the dual batteries were less common of an option by '05. A bad battery can read normal voltage but with a bad cell or two will not have the current (amperage) available to run the starter (biggest current draw on the vehicle) but still power the lights. If the battery is more than 4 years old I would replace it anyways but most big autoparts stores or most NAPA autoparts stores will be able to load test your battery for free. The Cayenne has a fairly large battery with a lot of reserve capacity because there are so many electrical accessories running on modern vehicles but the starter motor takes a high demand. Even the Turbo with a relatively high for Turbo's 9.5 to 1 compression ratio takes a lot of juice to power. With all of that said have you had any work done on the car recently that could be a cause?

I'm sure you can find all levels of LED quality out there, the cheaper ones will be the Chinese ones of course. I agree with Deilenberger about not connecting to the battery, it's more work stringing the wires there when you can go to one of the side fuse boxes and insert a fuse into an unused (ign-on) power source. A 2.5 amp fuse would be plenty (are they available smaller than 2.5?). Did you tape it to the back of the grille itself, that is one of the questions I have as your one pic is with the Grille off but the LED on? I think your install looks pretty good but would like to see a couple more higher quality pics from about 10~20' in front of the vehicle if possible. If you take them any chance you can E-mail me one at hahnmgh63@hotmail.com Thanks and Congrats.

Cardan shaft? Have your fluids (i.e. transfer case, transmission, diffs, checked), get your vehicle scanned for codes just in case.

I've had the clamped slip on power steering lines seep a little oil over time, not really a leak per se. They get hard & brittle with age/heat. But now that you've cleaned them off keep an eye out on them to see if it is something more serious as it can go from no drip to drip fairly quick sometimes.

Congrats, sounds like the common problems have been fixed and your good to go for some time. Great to have records.

Pic of the DS1 low beam Xenon. Not sure what the advantages are over the D2 types as they seem to be a little cheaper in costs.

Might be a stupid question but are you scrolling in to a lower scale? When you zoom out the details go away for minor streets and return when you zoom in to smaller distances.

I used Redline 75w90, I wouldn't recommend the MT-90 as it is only a GL4 and the Burmah is a GL5. I haven't noticed a change since swapping it 5K ago at 60K miles but the OEM fluid front & rear was definitely dirty. I also put Redline D5 ATF in the transfer case (not too bad looking compared to the diff fluid) and will do the tranny fluid this Spring.

I have wiring diagrams for a '06 if you want those? I think the PCM stuff should pretty much be the same. hahnmgh@yahoo.com I can E-mail you them in PDF. Mark

And when it is cold have somebody start it while you have your hand on the pump just to see if the electric air pump is working, either that or unplug the connector and put a 12V source to it. If the pump seems to be working properly then it is most likely a leak from a hose or a kink. Could be a combi valve gone bad but I would check the pump and hoses first.

Not sure about why your level changed. It should change from normal to low at higher speeds (I think around 115~120Km) after you exceed this speed for a certain amount of time but never while stopped. It is definitely ok to drive at low height, many Cayenne owners as the lower center of gravity slighly improves handling. You could run by a dealer and see if they could run the test equipment (PIWIS) on it to see if they see a fault.

I actually have a car lift in my detached garage which makes it handy although initially I was able to crawl under the Cayenne with it raised to the high ride height position (Air Suspension). Greg at Sonnen got it shipped within 3 hours of calling him and had it to me in a couple of days.

Not the Snorkel kit but for the older Cayenne's (V8's) Porsche had a heavy duty filter option with a foam pre-filter that could be cleaned in order to extend the life of the paper element filters.

There is this: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Touareg_1--V8/Search/Air_Compressor/ES414705/ and if they still have it at this price:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Touareg_1--V6/Suspension/View_All/ES289283/ unbelieveable price on an OEM product and I don't even like ECS tuning.

When you get the Air Suspension fault you say it operates as normal. Next time you get it see if you can change the ride height? I occaisonally get a fault and it won't let me raise or lower the vehicle until I shut the pig off and restart it or clear the fault with Durametric. I have purchased the VW rebuild kit but am waiting for a combination of the fault getting worse and myselft having less other vehicle projects to work on :)

Well, not as bad as it could have been. ( '06 CTTS w/Coolant pipe update but not sure about the plastic T pipes) Driving last night I thougt I saw a little steam (cold night) coming from the front when stopped at a light. Bad things crossed my mind but forgot about it until this morning when I started her up and the low coolant light comes on in the Display. I checked it and it took about 3qts to bring the level up but no leak showing? I thought I'll drive it up to temp and see if the pressure forces it out of her, still bad possibilites in my mind. Well as it turned out the fluid started to drip down the right side engine compartment frame rail when hot. After removing the right side plastic engine compartment trim pieces I see it's leaking from underneath the Coolant Reservoir. I pull the Reservoir hoping it was a slight hose split but it turns out the Reservoir is leaking from the seam where the friction welded the two pieces together. Well, only about $54 from Sonnen plus shipping, so she is down for a few days until the new Reservoir comes. The part number suffix has been superseded from .22 to .23 from the one in my PET so I'm not sure if it is improved in anyway. What a relief though.

I've also had good luck on my Audi with Hawk HPS pads but the EBC Yellows can be used for racing but they are very popular for performance SUV's.

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/yellowstuff_brake_pads/yellowstuff_truck_brake_pads_index.shtml

I'm a believer in changeing out the fluids, especially if you think your going to keep it for a long time, but if not then the next owner may appreciate it, keep the record of it. The front & rear Diffs as well as the transfer case don't take a lot of oil so for DIY your not spending a lot of money unless your using the OEM fluids. The transmission is the big on when it comes to fluid & a filter too.

I think I'm in the same boat as you with my '06 CTTS. I wonder if another camera would work? Are you sure it is your camera and not the camera control module.

I did find this link. I wonder if a phone call to them would help. http://www.kuhnkeusa...pplications.php

I'm with Working4it on this one. I use EBC Yellows on my '06 CTTS & my Audi RS6 and they are better than OEM, Cheaper, A little lesss dust, no Squeaking, and can't verify yet but suppose to be easier on the rotors.

If you take it to the dealer to have new software loaded please leave some feedback on the results. I have a '06 CTTS and have been thinking about having it done to see if the throttle response improves.