hahnmgh63

UTRacerX9 you said it exactly, Mobil 1 in Europe is a better oil than what they sell in N. America because the ACEA requirements standards are stricter and they wouldn't be able to sell most of the oil that they sell here. It is curious why they call the 0W-40 the "European formular" when it barely meets the ACEA standards and isn't the same as the oil they sell over there.

Workin4it, I do think Amsoil is a good oil, and if you check the product data sheets I just think Redline is slightly better for about the same price. As for Royal Purple, I know many people swear by it but they don't test their oil to the ACEA standard, or at least they didn't as of a couple of years ago so I had nothing to compare it too, who knows, it may be one of the best oils out there but without the right data it is hard to tell, and if you have a vehicle on warranty it would be a mistake to use a oil that isn't tested to meet the minimum standard as I've seen dealers send oil out for analysis.

If you read this months "Excellence" article on oils including the excerpt from LN Engineering on IMS failures that have plagued 911's & Boxsters & Caymans lately you will find some good information on oil. Remember even though we don't have flat tappet engines, the reduction of ZDDP in the N. American market increases the wear on our engines now, but of course our Catalytic converters are going to last another 20~30K. I would rather replace my Catalytic converter than my engine?

I hate to disagree deilenberger but oil is not just oil. And just because one says it meets a manufacturers specifications doesn't mean that it is equal to anothers. Why not use one that exceeds a manufacturers specifications? What is a manufacturers specifications for? They definitely want their engine to not fail or exceed certain specifications (oil usage, compression loss, etc...) until after the vehicle is off warranty but how much longer, they obviously don't want their vehicles lasting forever. I'm just aaying that a superior oil is one of the cheapest things you can do to protect your rotating components, and what if you increase power output, how do the manufacturers specifications now apply?

As for Redline, I did got to do a tour of the factory 10 years ago when our local Porsche club (WA state) did a tour down to Laguna Seca and was impressed. If you go to almost any manufacturers website you can look at their product data sheets and compare test numbers for the certifications they've tested their oils for. Every oil in the U.S. must be tested to SAE specs but the more more stringent tests are the European tests, ACEA, not all oils sold or manufactured in N. America are tested to this specification or could even come close. Mobil 1 may meet this specification but only in a couple of weights, and just barely where Redline exceeds all of the specifications, especially in the HTHS (High Temp, High Shear) rating, whearas it(Redline 0W-40)exceeds Mobil 1's 0W-40 rating by 28%. Oh yea, Porsche recommmends Mobil One, but not because it is the best, it is a economic recommendation from a oil that just meets the specification from one of the biggest oil manufacturers in the world that gives them a big price break on a big ticket item that must be added to every vehicle they sell. GM recommends it for many of their vehicles, do you think GM is doing it from a economic or engineering decision? VW/Audi, VAG have one of the strictest oil specifications, exceeding those of ACEA, and their minimum HTHS is 3.5, Mobil 1 0W-40 HTHS is 3.6, Redline 0W-40 HTHS is 4.6 which is a better shear rating than even Mobil 1 15W-50, a thick oil. I'll get off my soapbox now, oil is an individuals choice and I'm just saying that it is a cheap insurance not worth saving a few dollars on your oil changes if you are the kind of person who plans on keeping your cars long, even then, why accept extra wear to pass on to the next buyer. My background is Aeronautical Engineering and I can be Anal about somethings, just go to the manufacturers website and check out their product data sheets and compare for yourself, price & availability are all fairly close nowadays.

Ok, got the rear diff replaced (w/redline 75w-90 gear oil), already did the transfer case (Redline D4 ATF), now I just have the transmission and front diff to go. My rear fluid didn't look quite as dirty as Working4itj's did, not sure of his miles, I have (55K on a '06 Turbo S). The consistency of the fluid was good, had a little trransparancy to it, but still was a little blackish. I'm now curious to see how the front looks.

Just looked mine over and it looks like there is plenty of meat to just get a plug/bolt the next size up and tap the hole for it. Use a good copper or aluminum crush washer and it may seem anal but always use a Torque wrench when installing. Steel bolt into an Aluminum pan can easlily spell trouble.

Just ordered up some Redline to do my front & rear diffs since I did the tranfer case a couple of months back. Then it will be time to tackle the ATF & filter for the tranny.

The Driveshafts Porsche sells are suppose to be improved according to two different dealers I spoke with and the original part #'s have been superseded to new ones which would leave one to believe that they have. Although without comparing one side to side who knows what has been improved.

Also try to do a PCM reset (doesn't cause it to loose any data). With the car started or ignition on and the PCM off push and hold the numbers keys 1, 4, & 8. The screen should come on with the Porsche Logo for a few seconds then shut down. Then just press the volume knob as usual to restart it again.

Congrats on a tough job for a relatively routine mx task.

For anyone in N. America having this problem I have heard good things about the modified valve bodies from Sonnax

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/P15740-1.html

I'm not sure if Porsche's valve bodies are the same problematic ones or modified by Aisin, the transmission manufacturer.

But at under $1000 for the modified/improved valve body if you are a decent mechanic you can do the job yourself as the transmission doesn't need to be pulled to do it. You just need to pull the pan and keep it all very clean.

I would agree with wvicary. Rotate the tires front to rear and see if the sound changes. Besides the wheel bearing on that side also check the CV Joints. Once a wheel bearing starts going bad it usually doesn't last long but CV joints can slowly go bad over a fair amount of time. Try going down the road and do slight S turns to see if the noise changes pitch appriciably, if it does my bet will be on a wheel bearing or CV joint. They both normally last longer than this in Cayennes but it could be a bad joint/bearing or a torn boot causing premature failure. Hopefully just the tires.

Does the interference seem to be greater or the same with the engine running compared to being shut off?

It wouldn't hurt to update the software but I agree in that it is probably not the problem. I'll have the update discs back to me (lended them out) in a couple of weeks if you want to borrow them to do the update. This would be just the updating discs and you would still need a Nav Map disc.

Exactly as BigSuzuki said, their all about the same and I wouldn't go to any fancy rice looking colored bulbs or higher wattage bulbs for this application. Just the standard Phillips, Osram, Hella, Sylvania bulbs. As he mentioned also, the Amazon bulb is a special 24Volt version for either light aircraft or heavy equipment which uses a 24V electrical system.

That little excerpt I posted is directly out of the Mobridge manual which you can find and download in PDF format from their website. And yes, the instructions they give are a little confusing. If you screw it up it just means it won't work right and you just try it again until it does.

http://www.mobridge.us/compatibility/vehicles/19/13152/13153

That's what it is. The Mobridge system defeat switch. You have to cycle it in order to bypass the Mobridge system for the Porsche PIWIS system to work, otherwise it blocks the MOST bridge and the Porsche scantool doesn't work.

They bypass switch is provided to allow for the mObridge unit

to become 'Invisible' on the MOST vehicle bus system. The

main use of this function is to facilitate dealer services when

the diagnostic computer is in use and to ensure the mObridge

unit does not interfere with the vehicle diagnostics.

The function can be enabled to toggling this switch 5

times. Once the bypass feature has been activated, the

MOST bus will be broken for 2 seconds and the feature

cannot be activated again for a further 10 seconds.

Once the bypass switch has been activated, it will remain

activated across power cycles until the bypass is de-activated by

toggling the switch again 5 times within a 5 sec time frame.

To me it looks like they take a Mobridge device and rebox it and sell it under their name. If it is a Mobridge then it should work fine. With the Mobridge out there 100% sucessful I am wondering for about the same price why you would try a device with a name nobody has ever heard of? The plug locations/connections on the back are in exactly the same place as on the Mobridge. I would say they bought a Mobridge copied the circuit board and put a plastic case on it instead of the aluminum one the Mobridge comes in.

'06 Turbo S from Delaware to Washington state (about 3K miles) and I got exactly 18mpg. I mostly had the cruise control set on 75mph but had some real strong headwinds in the Midwest from Ohio to Wyoming. I did this trip back in the middle of March and hit a mild snowstorm in the Appalachians.

06 Turbo, what was the part # of the coils in your car? Mine is a early production '06 CTTS and I just changed my plugs (53K) and mine were all .05 part #'s. The pig runs great but someday I may need to upgrade to .08 or whatever the revision is by then.

mtimmy, are you using the Hawks? As I mentioned I am using EBC Yellows on a '06 Cayenne Turbo S and like them better than OEM. They dust a little less, are easier on the rotors, and cost less. I am not easy on my brakes either but I do do a good break-in. Drive normally for 100~200 miles then do a bedding in with 5 stops from 60+ to 20mph back to back so everything gets a little warm. After the last bedding which isn't mentioned in most procedures is to drive easy for at least 10+ minutes so your rotors can cool before coming to a complete stop.

I just bought two Phillips D1S bulbs off Amazon for $54 each. What a great deal since the dealer wants almost $200 for these. I have the occaisonal right headlight fault and it has been better since I cleaned all of the contacts with contact cleaner/enhancer but since I found these OEM bulbs so cheap I thought I would see if this fixes it since it has for some. Great deal, thought I would pass it on.

As deilenberger said, the bolt use a tool known as Triple Square or XZN. Some attempt to use a Torx socket which may somewhat fit but will not grab enough teeth, or very well and will strip the bolts. Europeans use Hex head, Torx, and Triple Square where American and Japanese stuff tends to just be the first two. You can get a decent set of Triple square at Kragens or Autozone discount autoparts places, they are right next to the Torx stuff usually.

Most brake pads are not fully bedded for 200 to 300 miles of normal driving. With that said, I have used Hawks on my Audi in the past but for my '06 CTTS I am using EBC Yellow pads and they grip slightly better than stock and dust a little less than stock and the price is much better than OEM. The did squeak a few times in the first 200 miles but that went away and they've been quiet and great since. Some feedback from others said they are easier on the rotors too.

I would run a Durametric scan or take it to the dealer to run a scan as there are a lot of little switches that control it. Without a fault code your in for a long haul of trial & error. There are also pressure switches just like the side windows which stop the motor when something is pinched.

I did just the Mobridge Bluetooth as I already had the dealer installed Ipod input, though it doesn't have an aux input for MP3's or anything. The Bluetooth works great, install is fairly easy too. The Mobridge w/Ipod/Aux adapter costs a little more but I'm sure it is great.

Mine does show: I4E2 Interior tailgate release, electrical, but I don't see anything in the options to indicate the interior petrol door release, but I do have it.