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You have an expensive car that takes expensive tires. I wouldn't chance it with my life or my families life going cheap. I would pretty much guarantee you they don't meet Porsche Specs and probably don't even meet DOT specs.

Draining them is a DIY. Since Porsche chooses to use O-ring'd plastic pipes instead of slip-on Rubber hoses you should always replace the O-rings. If you can change to oil you can do this. There is a write up on it here or on Rennlist. May want to pull the plastic wheel liner and will need to remove the plastic belly pan that your remove when doing a Oil change..

Do you have Durametric?  If so clear the codes and go through the supension height calibration routine.

Could very well be normal depending on if it has ever been drained. Usually/normally Turbo cars will get that Oil downstream from the crankcase ventilation system and only from the Turbo if there is a seal problem. With the extra system pressure from the Turbo charged engine you can get more crankcase oil that the air/oil separator misses. That is why Oil catch cans are so popular on Turbocharged and Supercharged engines. I plan on putting two on my CTTS soon. I have two on my Audi RS6 (twin Turbo V8) and one on my Audi tt (1.8t). They don't stop all of the oil but they do cut down on the amount passing through. Audi recommends to drain the lower Intercooler hose every other oil change. I'll have to take a look in the Porsche Shop manual to see if they also make a recommendation. If you can, spray some Brake cleaner up into the Intercoolers to get some of the oil film off. The oil cuts down a slight amount on the efficiency of the intercoolers.

Parking brake on, foot on the break.

I have had the 2101 & 710 codes on my '06CTTS for a couple of years and everything seems to work fine except that I don't feel like I get much air to the footwells, a little but not much. I also had the Fresh air servo code and that was an easy replacement over by the Fresh air filter, caused fogging when not in Auto. One of these days I'll have to tear into the dash to get to the other two.

Yes, the TIV is the Toyota spec fluid, which is spec'd for the older (our design) Aisin transmissions. You do not want to use the newer lower Viscosity fluid in our transmission.

Porsche of course say to buy their fluid but they can't require it. There fluid spec for the transmission say's it must meet the Esso JWS3309 spec (per TSB 1/03 3702) which the Mobil 3309 was meant to meet and Redline claims the D4 exceeds as well as many others.  Remember, Porsche doesn't manufacturer the transmission but Aisin does and one version or another of this same transmission is used in many other vehicles. Even getting the OEM fluid from VW for a Touareg is cheaper than getting it from a Porsche dealer.

As far as the filling procedure goes. After you get the filter changed and the pan back on you will fill the pan (with the engine off) until the fluid drips out of the periscope filling hole.  Then you start it up and start filling again with the engine at idle and as you are filling you monitor the temperature. Stop filling of course when it starts to drip, let it drip until the fluid temp reaches 40'C. Using an IR device you may want to plug around ~ 35'C?  It is better to plug it a little early (very slight overfill) then a little late (fluid underfill).

I have been using Redline D4 in my '06 Turbo S for 3+years now and it is fine. I think it actually shifts better when cold than OEM.  Some using the Mobil 3309 and say it is identical as it was designed for the JWS3309 spec which Aisin calls for as well as the Toyota IV fluid. I haven't had the need to swap out my valve body so I can't comment on the Tq specs but I can look the up for you if nobody else pipes in. I wouldn't think that any of the Valve body bolts would be one time stretch bolts there but I would Tq them properly. Just get a couple of cans of Brake Cleaner from the local parts store to clean up every thing. Wipe down the pan first then clean it with the Brake cleaner. You probably need at least 8+qts to to the whole job. Pull the drain plug and let it drain overnight before pulling the pan if your not in a big hurry as it will keep dripping for quite a while which is annoying and you get even more of the old fluid out. Do you have Durametric? Or Vagcom?  If you plan on keeping your Pig for a while I would highly recommend the Durametric software/cable.

Don't even try to fix it. The Plenum is only $55 from Sonnen. It'll just break again as they do get brittle with age & heat. 95511004650

http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=95511004650&make=Porsche&action=oePartSearch&siteid=215405

Yes, the cover and the whole unit are a slide in piece. I think there were two screws in the front. You have to pull it out and undo the two cigarette lighter plugs and re-install them in the new piece. I also have the aluminum trim but if yours is like mine the piece we are talking about is all Black with no aluminum trim on it though?

Had to replace mine. As Loren said it is fairly cheap and you just swap out the two cigarette lighter adapters to the new piece.

I would agree to normally change it twice (half the interval) what Porsche recommends but call a few of the big Transmission shops and you will usually find if it is a high mileage transmission that has never been changed just top off if needed but don't change. One of the thoughts is that it is coming to an end of it's useful life and the benefits of a change are outweighed by the drawbacks. The thought is that at high mileage a change can loosen varnish and such that may flow around and clog some of the small ports in the valve body & tranny before they can get caught by the filter.

Before you go to drastic measure, be sure to check the oil/water cooler at the front of the engine by the oil filter. Usually the oil and coolant will go both ways depending on engine running or off and heating up & cooling down. Sometimes you won't get enough water in the oil to notice at first as it will burn off when the temp heats up. Not a quick answer but an oil analysis from Blackstone labs would be one way to tell. A compression check as well as pressure testing the cooler and it's seals is another way. There are some seals between the block and the cooler/filter assembly but it could be internal also. Hopefully not the head gasket.

Could be fluid for the rear window wiper. I believe the hose goes through the left rear wheel well on it's way to the hatch.

This part fits

• Porsche Cayenne S Sport Utility 955 4.5L V8
• Porsche Cayenne Turbo Sport Utility 955 4.5L V8
• Porsche Cayenne Base Sport Utility 955 3.2L V6
• Porsche Cayenne Base Sport Utility 955 3.6L V6
• Porsche Cayenne GTS Sport Utility 955 4.8L V8
• Porsche Cayenne S Sport Utility 955 4.8L V8
• Porsche Cayenne Turbo Sport Utility 955 4.8L V8
• Turbo S uses "025" part.

Just an FYI.  I have been using the Redline D4 fluid in my '06 CTTS for 3 yrs and over 30K and it still shifts great. Much better than the old fluid and the Redline D4 exceeds the JWS 3309 specification which the Toyota Type IV is based on. Definitely don't use the Redline D6 as it is too thin and is meant for newer design transmissions than ours.

For Omoige, I don't think you destroyed your transmission. But you may have the wrong fluid, not all Audi fluids are the same, some do meet the same specs as our Aisin tranny and some don't. Post what fluid you used if you have the part number but otherwise just get the new fluid and a new filter in there. Try to have it flushed if able but if not at least let it drain overnight to get as much of the old stuff out as possible.

Pretty easy to get at the Cabin Filter under the glovebox.  If you or a dealer hasn't replaced that recently I would definitely start there. Also have a Shop Vac handy in case there is some debris in there.

If only one pump is working the fuel won't completely scavenge the other side of the tank and your gauge will read above empty but you will run out of fuel as soon as the side with the operating pump goes empty. I think you can get it closer to 1/8 if you are doing some side to side maneuvering but if you are driving smooth straight ahead you can get starvation early without sloshing to the good side.

I always assumed the 7L5 part numbers were VAG although that theory doesn't hold to my PCM which has a 7L5 part number and VAG was smart enough not to use the same Radio/Nav unit. Also my driveline (Turbo S) has a 7L5 part number but it may be shared with the V10 TDI for all I know. It would be nice for a cross reference to all Touareg VAG parts. I used the 7L5 part number off the OEM fuel filter to order a new one through the VW dealer for much less than Porsche's price, exact part number as the Touareg V8.

You can use the Vagcom on most modules. There are only very few things on the Cayenne that are not VAG modules too. PCM is one thing that will not scan but right off hand I think that is about it. I use my Durametric and Vagcom interchangeably.  If I had to do it all over I probably wouldn't have ever gotten the Durametric as Vagcom is so far ahead in capabilities but Durametric has been making great strides on each software version.

mbagge01, your RS6 neighbor to the North. I have logged my CTTS on vagcom and it works just fine.  If I remember correctly I think I used the standard groups, 3, 31, 115.  The Cayenne ECU, at least my '06 CTTS uses Motronic ME 7.1.1 which is the same version as the RS6.

Must be something up front that you disconnected when you did the Thermostat. Rarely does the gas cap set this one off as it is the large leak fault. Usually for the gas cap it is the fault for the small leak detected unless you completely forgot to put the cap on.

Just FYI, Amazon still has the Phillips D1S oem color bulbs for $50 each. They are in Phillips boxes and stamped Phillips on the Ignitors so I would definitely say they are Phillips.

I did mention in another thread that the Fuel Filter is the exact same VDO part as the Touareg V8, the Cayenne part actually has the VW part number on it. 7L0919679A.