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Hi all... I recently blew the engine in my 2005 base. It was my own fault but that is not the question here. I have purchased a used Boxster S motor which looks like a nice fit. I figure while the engine is being installed I might as well replace the instrument cluster in which the Time LCD is broken. I would like to replace it with one from a Boxster S. QUESTION: Will the replacement be "plug & play" or must I reprogram the ECU (Computer)? I know that 2005 was a pivotal year so what clusters (years) will work? Can anyone recommend a good place from which to purchase one used?
I was removing a very small indentation in my 987 front bumper when I noticed a spot that I though was road debris. I scratched it with my finger and rather quickly discovered that the spot was melted bumper plastic. I will eventually pick up a used bumper but cannot afford one at this time. I am told that there are two types of pliable body putty. Does anyone happen to know the type of material of which the bumper is made (I know it is plastic but one type is of plastic type X and the other is for plastic type Y. I have forgotten the names but the body shop supplier knows them.
My spoiler suddenly deployed about 1/2 way. It rained rather hard today although I am not sure this is important. Pressing the button causes the spoiler to deploy to the full extent which seems to be about 6 - 8 inches. Pressing it again triggers a retraction to the 1/2 way point. I have read through the other threads but my issue seems to be different. Any suggestions?
I had just finished prepping sanding priming painting sanding again clear coating... well you get the idea. The hood which had many small dings from pebbles now looked pristine and it was Sunday evening. On Monday I drove on an errand and rolled into a very large Suburban dead center on my newly shiny hood... :-( Today I received my replacement hood from my Porsche dealer and am excited to paint and install it. I have a few questions though: 1. The hood appears to have a coat of prime already upon it. The surface is smooth and a sort of olive green in color. Should I rough it up a bit with some 320 grit and prime it myself of just rough it up and apply the base coat? 2. The molded bumper has a very smooth dent in the shape of part of a Suburban's bumper. There are no scratches or tears just a smooth indent and a few scuff marks. I believe that heat and some gentle pushing from the inside will pop the nose back into place. Am I correct in this? 3. I will want to repaint the nose after fixing the dent. I plan to rough it up then apply the base then a few coats of clear seperated by light 800 grit wet sanding to produce a deep shine. Is there anything special that I should look out for when painting the plastic nose?
Gents, this is probably going to sound a bit strange, but I run a lint remover (you know the sticky roller thing) over my top (I just figured out that you were not discussing the front metal "hood") and it seems to pick up a lot of junk. It makes my wife crazy though because I always forget to put the lint remover back after I use it (kind of like leaving the seat up...)
I just had mine painted and sacrificed the nice white icons on the knobs. They look and feel fine and no one is any the wiser to the missing icons. I found an interior repair guy locally who did the paint job for me but have since found that interior paint is sold in auto paint stores. Next time I will paint them myself and post my results.
Gents... I had the "pleasure" of changing out the two levers on my 987. When I was recovering from some surgery, one of my neighbors thought he would do me a favor and start up my car. It was a sunny day here in Florida so he decided to grab a few rays and listen to a few tunes. Unfortunately for me, he did not realize that the top was electric. He released the "Press Here" button, grabbed the front of the newly freed top and pushed like heck. It went down sort of and he apparently realized the error of his ways so he pulled the top back up and figured that I would be none the wiser... I ordered the parts from my dealer and installed them in less than 30 minutes. It is literally a "snap" with a couple of bolts. Really no big deal to do it yourself. Just put the top into the "service position", look at the existing rods and carefully remove the bolts attached to the car frame then lift the broken levers out. Replacing is the reverse but make sure that the new levers are sized exactly the same as the broken ones using the adjustment bolt on the lever. Use a large flathead screwdriver to pop the plastic caps into place.
I am afraid that I have no advice on moving the top back manually but I did have the occasion to change both levers to which the ball joints are attached. I was able to reach in with the top in the service position and remove the old levers then pop the new ones in place. If you are certain that the balls are broken, perhaps you might force the roof back. Oh, the reason that mine broke is that one of my neighbors thought that he was doing me a favor while I was recuperating from surgery. He started my Boxster then decided to relax to some tunes with the top down. Unfortunately he was not aware that the top was electric so he popped the release, grabbed the front of the top and pushed mightily. It went down. Once the levers are snapped off (the plastic ball ends) the top acts like a manual top (sort of). Good luck and make sure that you purchase the correct levers for your model (986 or 987). They ran me about $80 apiece.