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Everything posted by deilenberger

  1. I reset mine to 0 when I changed the oil. I should check it again and see how it's changed. If you buy the ICarScan - to reset the TC oil use/wear numbers - the engine can't be running, but the ignition must be on. That fooled me for a bit. Got a communications error message when I went to reset it. Once I turned the engine off (leaving ignition on) - it reported "Success" - and the numbers were reset. I'd also love to see other people's numbers before changing -- especially anyone experiencing problems.
  2. It's Don Eilenberger.. Basically http://www.obd2tool.com/goods-5052-Launch+X431+iCarScan+Bluetooth+Diagnostic+Scanner+for+Android.html - although I ordered mine over a year ago. I'm using the Android based software. I haven't heard from anyone trying to use the iPhone based software yet. As far as the Porsche version - whatever was the latest download.
  3. New column added: Year Model Mileage Location AT/MT Fluid Remedy ForumUserName FIX WAS ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2012 V6 105,000 TX, USA MT Raveonl TF0870 Y ChrisFu Fluid Change 2012 V6 40,000 CA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Steph280 Fluid Change 2011 CTT 93,700 IL, USA AT Ravenol TF0870 Y pastorom Fluid Change 2012 CTT 72,000 NJ USA AT Porsche - 63 Y deilenberger Fluid Change 2012 CTT 45,300 MD USA AT Porsche OEM Y BweSteve New XFerCase Please use this format going forward.
  4. Creating a new column - with two options: "Fluid Change" or "New XFerCase" That should clear things up a bit..
  5. Steve - the list above is of Cayennes where new fluid was installed in the transfer case - and if it improved ("Remedy") operation. I'm sure your new TC has new fluid in it - but we can't attribute it's good behavior to the fluid alone.. :)
  6. @958s - I'll be very interested in how the oil you now have in there looks after some use when you go to change it again. I'm giving thought to doing a second change on mine.
  7. John, you might do better posting this in the correct forum. Your Cayenne (assuming we're talking about one) is a 9PA (AKA 955) - and the forum for those models is: https://www.renntech.org/forums/forum/80-9pa-9pa1-cayenne-cayenne-s-cayenne-turbo-cayenne-turbo-s-my2003-2010/ Good luck!
  8. I guess I should add in my info: Year Model Mileage Location AT/MT Fluid Remedy ForumUserName --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2012 V6 105,000 TX, USA MT Raveonl TF0870 Y ChrisFu 2012 V6 40,000 CA, USA AT Porsche OEM Y Steph280 2011 CTT 93,700 IL, USA AT Ravenol TF0870 Y pastorom 2012 CTT 72,000 NJ USA AT Porsche - 63 Y deilenberger
  9. I can't begin to imagine why changing the oil more frequently would be a problem. You may want to invest in a set of spare fill/drain plugs - just in case. The friction modifiers only "go away" with wear on the oil. They don't build up from changing the oil too much, they pretty much stay in suspension in the oil. My mechanic also suggested doing it every oil change (7,500 miles) - if the Ravenol appears to work well for 15,000 miles - I'll probably make that the transfer-case change interval, since I do oil about every 7,500 miles. Every other oil change. I don't know if I'd be as quick to do it that often with Porsche's $65 fluid though. (I'm value-conscious - ie - cheap.) BTW - Pastorom - thanks MUCH for telling the "rest of the story".. since yours was the only case so far where changing it on a higher-mileage transfer-case didn't improve it overall. Apparently the Redline wasn't the "right stuff.." Good on'ya!
  10. Dear bazza, This would require a Porsche specific code reader (Durametric, ICarScan) to diagnose. A WAG is the controller for the HVAC - but that's an expensive part to replace on a guess. It could also possibly be a failing switch. Do both sides do the same thing? Or only one side? With a code reader one could read the inputs from the switches into the module, and then read the output status going to the fan. And the stepper motor positions for the vents. At least with ICarScan I can. I haven't hooked up my Durametric to see if that's possible (mostly just from sheer laziness - it's way too easy to use the ICarScan.) So it's either buy a scan tool or visit the dealer time IMHO. I'm sure the HVAC module has to be coded to the vehicle, so no real avoiding that. Good luck and let us know how it works out please.
  11. BTW - searching on the Shell oil turned up a number of hits with BMW forums. They have the same problems (and strangely enough, have ZF transfer cases that use the same oil we do. They also found that changing the oil often seems to solve most of the issue. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8033580 and http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=17751
  12. Porsche Oil: Looking at Porsche PN 000-043-305-63, it has no detailed spec's on compatibility or use specifications on the bottle. It's obviously made for our transfer cases since the quantity is 850cc's (the case capacity.) On the front it says: " Bezeichnung: getriebeöl" which translates to: Gearbox oil". and "Im geschlossenen originalbehälter 3 jahre verwendbar ab Herstelldatum: siehe Aufdruck" translates to: "In closed original container 3 years usable from date of manufacture: see imprint" On the warning label inside it gives a MDS listing (required by law): "Contains (1-tert-dodecylthio) propan, Ethoxylated anime, Calcium sulphonate, borated esters." then lots of health warnings. The first chemical ((1-tert-dodecylthio) propan) appears to be a lubricant additive "This substance is manufactured and/or imported in the European Economic Area in 100 - 1 000 tonnes per year. This substance is used in the following products: lubricants and greases and hydraulic fluids." The second chemical (Ethoxylated anime) is a surfactant (something that "wets" a surface - like detergent does for water). The 3rd chemical (Calcium sulphonate) is something fairly new according to a Google search. It's an oil/grease additive that gives rust protection and works as an extreme pressure additive at the same time. The final chemical "Borate esters possess friction-reducing, antiwear, and anti-oxidant characteristics when blended in lubricating oils." Not super radical chemistry, but the one "new" chemical is interesting since it specifically is used to protect against rust while still working as an anti-wear extreme pressure lubricant (extreme pressure means "metal to metal" - it forms a barrier preventing this contact - ideal in this sort of clutch). Fuchs Titan ATF 5005: This oil is suggested as a direct replacement for the older Porsche oil: 000-043-301-36-M846. It is shown om Fuch's website as an automatic transmission oil, basically a DEXRON III type oil.. The bottle has no MDS listing on it, so the chemical composition is unknown. It is supposed to meet the Shell TF-0870 oil specification. It is widely sold as being for all Cayenne transfer cases. In looking at Fuch's own website - where they have a product selector: http://fuchs-eu.lubricantadvisor.com/advice.aspx?lang=eng&type=91be4020af03306d78b8184be618df13 - they list a different ATF for use in the transfer case: TITAN ATF 7134 FE - which raises an interesting conundrum. The 7134 FE is a recently developed lubricant made for Mercedes automatic transmissions that apparently were experiencing shift problems with standard ATF lubricants like ATF-5005. https://www.fuchs.com/uk/en/products/product-program/automotive-lubricants/#gear-oils Most importantly - I could find no Fuchs approval of the 5005 oil in our transfer cases. It might just be an older recommendation that was superseded by the 7134-FE recommendation, The change in recommendation might almost makes me think that Fuch's is the OE supplier for Porsche, and that Fuchs-5005 = 000-043-301-36, and Fuchs 7134 FE = 000-043-305-63. The reason for the "almost" is twofold: There are warnings that this fluid is not compatible with red color transmission fluids, and the fluid is blue. The new Porsche fluid is amber. RAVENOL Transfer Fluid TF-0870: I don't have any bottles of this - so I can't say if there is a MDS sheet under the back label. Ravelol US gives this description: "RAVENOL Transfer Fluid TF-0870 is a fully synthetic gear lubricant designed specifically for the latest generation of electronically controlled active transfer cases. RAVENOL Transfer Fluid TF-0870 is formulated with fully synthetic base oils (PAO) combined with special additives and inhibition. RAVENOL Transfer Fluid TF-0870 ensures optimum power transfer and ultimate reliability." They also specifically list it as recommended for the Cayenne transfer case and equivalent to Porsche 000-043-301-36. I think this is a safe bet if you want to use other than the Porsche overpriced oil. It would certainly work as a flush oil with a final change to the more expensive Porsche 000-043-305-63 fluid. Enough on oil. Chris - I'll be very interested to hear how your latest change holds up.
  13. Chris - it might be a fun project to try to find a barbed nipple that could be screwed into the case in place of the drain plug, then route a line from that to a small hydraulic pump and pass that through a filter - and then back into the fill port. Circulate the fluid and try to trap the suspended particles in the filter, and let the circulating oil wash any more out. Only problem I can see is it wouldn't get fluid up around where the clutch assembly is (up at the top of the case). Probably work just as effectively to do another change of fluid in 1,000 miles or so. As long as you're not using the $65 Porsche stuff it isn't too painful to dump lightly used fluid. I think I'll do some more fluid research. See who makes what for transfer cases.. I have a liter of the Fuchs oil sitting on my shelf. That was $15 or so. Have to spend some time seeing what approvals it has and how those might transfer to other oils.
  14. On the other forum where this topic has been active (http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-958/287782-2011-cayenne-transfer-case-replaced.html) there has been some discussion of getting a base virgin sample of oil tested by Blackstone Labs, then getting our samples of used oil tested to see what changed. Problem we have is I'm a bit cheapish - and don't feel like paying the $60 or so it would cost to buy a bottle of the original fill oil that Porsche used just to have the test done on it. That oil had a PN of 000-043-301-36. If anyone has any of that oil - unused - perhaps the remainder from doing a change and having some left over - I hope I could talk Blackstone into doing a free baseline run that we could compare our used samples to - and get some idea of what's going on. If that happens - I might also send along the bit of remaining oil from the new PN Porsche spec fluid (that ends in '63") so we can see what (if anything) changed between the two fluids. Anyone?
  15. I'm going to try to gather a bit of info - both here and 6-speed-on-line. Please only report your failure in one forum, I'd rather avoid duplicates. To try to gather a little info here - that may or may not be useful, IF you've experienced a TC failure, please reply to this thread with the following info. After giving that info, any comments or summary of warranty/non-warranty, fix was replaced or just oil change is also welcome. Info needed (and please try to keep this order:) Year, Model, Mileage, Location, ForumUserName -------------------------------------------------------------------- I think it should be pretty obvious what's asked for.. and will be interested in what the responses are. If we get enough I'll start putting it together in a spreadsheet to see if there are any common factors. An example response would be: 2011, CTT, 72,300, New Jersey USA, deilenberger (Except mine didn't fail..) TIA!
  16. Chris, I am too - and interested in any correlation between climate and failure mileage. You're in DFW, from memory - a rather warm part of the US - especially in summer. Your problem started at how many miles?
  17. BTW - I believe we discussed the change in the transfer case vent. The shop foreman also pointed to a revised "slinger" they installed on the lower output (to the front end). Looking at the air deflector I can understand now why Porsche is doing this. IF you were fording water deep enough to reach the air deflector - it is going to throw water up at the front-end output shaft on the transfer case. That in turn is going to spin the water off - and enough will go up above the case that it could drip back into the top mounted air-vent. Porsches answer - reroute the vent and change the slinger on the shaft so it doesn't throw the water off. Unfortunately it did not appear possible to re-route this vent with the TC in the car, at least not without dropping it down (which would require disconnecting the two driveshafts going to the TC, and dropping the cross-member below the TC. Not practical. I don't see this as a huge concern. I saw no sign of water contamination in my drained oil. No one here has mentioned any water contamination in their oil. I don't think it's a huge issue if you don't regularly do off-roading and stream fording in your Cayenne. Driving across a rugged parking lot is not likely to cause oil contamination.
  18. A strong recommendation to anyone with a Cayenne: Make a transfer-case (TC) oil change a regular maintenance item. I'd suggest every 30,000 miles, and checking the oil every oil change when the car is up on the lift. Doing a TC oil change on a lift will add about 10 minutes to the time spent changing the engine oil. Perhaps less. The TC drain and fill plugs are RIGHT THERE IN YOUR FACE - you actually could touch both of them with your nose if you were so inclined. Nothing in the way, lots of access, nothing has to be removed. I'll add a photo taken from underneath when I have a chance.. but there is no reason to not change the oil. We now have 4 people who were experiencing TC symptoms - told by Porsche they needed new TC's - who have changed their oil and no longer are experiencing ANY symptoms. We have one person who changed their TC oil and his symptoms were reduced but not eliminated - but - he didn't use a recommended oil, or even an oil that the oil manufacturer suggested for the use. He is going to change it again using one of the recommended oils. My own experience: My '11 Twin-Turbo didn't exhibit the symptoms other people had. The common symptom is a roughness in accelerating and some popping/clicking noises from under the car. Mine had a tiny bit of unevenness on acceleration - but not so much that I thought it abnormal. I have 72,300 miles on the CTT. I changed the oil today - putting in the new part# Porsche oil. It was available from SunsetPorscheParts.com - they had the best price (around $45 + shipping.) Local dealer wanted $75 for it. I did it on a lift since I have a friendly independent who was interested. It took longer to set the lift up to lift the Cayenne then it did to change the oil. What drained out was black. It had a slight burned odor to it, but not really strong. It didn't smell like gear oil, or the oil that was going in. It seemed rather thin. There was no sign of water contamination. I've saved a sample to send to Blackstone to analyze. As to what causes the oil breakdown - I suspect several items: One is heat. There is a small deflector right under the TC that is there to direct air up over the case and cool it. There has to be a reason for that deflector. I wonder if failures happen more often in warmer climates? The other may simply be use. The design is such that the clutch is ALWAYS partly engaged - and always slipping. That's how power is transferred from the rear to the front or rear to front. If someone drives in situations where they do a lot of turning - that will cause more slippage of the clutch as the ratio of front/rear torque changes. If someone has partly worn tires on one axle - that will cause continual slippage as the system adjusts the difference in rotation speed of the tires. ALL of these situations do two things - wear the clutch - and heat up the transfer case. Excessive heat is certainly indicated on TC's where people have reported a burned smell in the old oil. The new oil had the usual gear-oil sort of smell (sulphur) and was a light golden color. Took about 2 minutes to pump it full and button it up. This could EASILY be done on one with air-suspension by simply going to the highest suspension position and sliding under the vehicle on a piece of cardboard. The result surprised me. It felt different backing out of his parking lot. After about 2 miles it felt much different. The acceleration is absolutely smooth now. It sort of encourages me to put my foot in the pedal.. So - why is this? I believe the oil has broken down due to heat, and is contaminated with clutch wear particles. The clutch in the TC is a multiplate wet clutch. That means that the oil used IS important for smooth operation. Oil that is too thin and contaminated with wear particles will cause uneven clutch operation. It's my belief that the roughness in acceleration (and on turning) and the noise are symptoms of the clutch plates engaging erratically, sticking and then releasing. New oil seems to cure this - at least in the vehicles it's been tried in. Use an oil with the Porsche specification on the bottle..It can be found as cheaply as $12/liter. It only takes 0.85 liter. Car manufacturers like extended service intervals.. for a simple reason, it makes it easier to sell cars. People are afraid of high maintenance costs, (which would be very true if this was done by Porsche - the estimate to change the oil was over $200..) so the manufacturer extends the service intervals as far as they possibly can and have the car survive the original warranty period and any CPO period they might have to cover. At 100,000 miles - to the manufacturer - the car is basically dead to them. They have no continuing interest since they aren't going to make money off it. So - it's easy and inexpensive to do - and it has FIXED issues that Porsche dealers wanted $4,000 to fix. Just do it. Change your TC oil. And to check the oil at oil change intervals - remove the top fill plug and stick your finger in (or if it's full and warm some oil will run out) if the oil is DARK - replace it. YMMV - but bet not a whole lot.. Looking forward from under the car:
  19. Might I suggest you use Ravenol (talked about above) or gasp.. the Porsche stuff (with the new PN - from Sunset Porsche web-order about $45 + $12 shipping.) People have had success using Ravenol - the Redline is IMHO - an unknown (even if they do recommend it - I have been disappointed in some of their other recommended oils - like the transmission lube they recommended for an E46/M3 BMW..)
  20. pastorom (Name?) What oil did you refill it with? There may be some difference. Back in the old days of mechanical limited slip rear-drives - BMW ones with limited slip required either special lubricants, or an additive (GM made one for Corvettes that was widely used in other vehicles) - to prevent the stiction sort of noises/feeling you're describing in the limited slip clutch pack. The transfer case clutch pack is much the same as the limited slip ones were - a multiplate oil soaked clutch. I suspect some of the transfer-case oils may work better with the multiplate clutch in the Porsche transfer case than others. Hence my curiosity on what oil you used. And if you were facing TC replacement anyway - you would have nothing to loose by trying the GM additive package (most NAPA auto-parts stores keep it in stock.)
  21. Thanks MUCH for the followup. I imagine some debris was still trapped in the clutch assembly. It may take yet another oil change to fully flush it out. I'd wait a few thousand miles for that one.
  22. Answered in the thread you created on RennList. http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/981828-used-cayenne-purchase.html#post14059746
  23. That's twice he's been told. Hopefully.. he's paying attention (it's a real PITA to find you're not able to remove the fill plug after draining the TC.. but - you only make that mistake once.) BTW - Steph - when you're done - please post your results here. I'd like to keep a running total on success with this.
  24. steph - you may want to read: Read the entire thread actually. It is - as they say "a piece of cake" to do the job (especially if you have a lift) - both fill and drain are on the backside of the transfer case. You do want some sealant to put on the plugs before refilling them. You do want to remove the fill first (I hope I don't have to explain why..) And you do want to use a torque wrench (small 3/8" one or even 1/4" one - 12ft/lbs isn't much torque at all) to tighten them up. #1 is fill, #2 is drain.
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