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It appears the seal is held in place by a T shaped section that fits into a groove in the top frame. Can the seal be worked back in place? I'm sure replacements can be purchased.. it appears that your seals have experienced some significant wear.
deilenberger started following Checking out a 2011 Boxster S, Car won't start after replacing variocam actuators, A/C problem after removing and installing front bumper and and 7 others
You mentioned the car was running and driving before you started working on it.. and that begs a few questions: How long have you owned it? How many miles? Has it always had an engine warning light on since you've owned it? How do you know the actuators were on the wrong banks? Do the actuators have different PN's? Can you point me to an on-line diagram that shows the "actuators" - since none of the on-line parts diagrams seem to refer to anything like that.
Does the temperature sensor and side marker light use similar connectors? (Won't be the first time with Porsche..)
Removing the battery negative is always a good idea. The seats have airbags in them, so - good precaution. What you don't want to do is turn on the ignition, or even have the key in the ignition when the connectors to the seat are disconnected. That would likely cause an airbag fault error which might require a diagnostics tool to reset it when you reconnect. Disconnecting the battery will avoid all that. Good luck! Let us know how it works out!
I see you posted the same basic message over on Rennlist - my answers wouldn't change so I didn't bother replying. You did add one question on Rennlist - the answer is - the "preamp stage" is in the radio/PCM itself. You have a dead amplifier. It drowned. It's kaput. Nailed to the perch so to speak.. it's an ex-amplifier. You need a replacement. Electronics never does well submersed in water.
1. Yes 2. Replace with a working one 3. Probably not 4. Probably. Not hard to do - 4 bolts one in each corner. They're external torx so you need "e-torx drivers" (they're a torx socket) 5. Porsche for a lot of $$. Possibly a wrecking yard specializing in Porsche.
Ah - here is the answer to my question - yes - it is available for a manual - but unless you have active suspension it might be much cheaper to get the sprint-booster. Suncoast Porsche Parts & Accessories Porsche Sport Mode Software - 997 & 987 WWW.SUNCOASTPARTS.COM
Does Sport button even exist for a manual transmission car? On PDK cars it is - and SPORT is great, SPORT-PLUS is AMAZING. Totally changes the behavior of the car - it not only changes throttle response (which could be done with a "Booster" for a lot less $$$), it changes the shifting of the PDK. "SPORT" setting with my Sprint Booster set to 2 makes for a really responsive lively car, responds with enthusiasm to every input I give it. Tonight I went for a top-down ride (50F, had on earmuffs and the heated seat) and I finally tried SPORT PLUS. I didn't change the settings on the Sprint BOOSTER - still set at "2".. the combination is pretty much magic on a nice twisty road with good pavement, decent sight-lines, and one I know like the back of my hand. The transmission kept the engine between 4K and about 7.2K, which sounds amazing with the top down and a Fister exhaust. It also feels amazing, very responsive, would go wherever I looked without a second thought and kept asking for MORE... when I went past the local LEO station at a bit less than 2x the speed limit, I used the wheel-buttons to upshift to 3rd (it was still in 2nd). It responded instantly, as I slowed to almost legal cruising speed it wanted to go back to 2nd so I had to take it out of PLUS mode and just be happy with SPORT. This could be addicting. It really had me grinning, and it's been a while since a car inspired that in me - it usually takes a motorcycle to do that. So the question is - is there a sport button for manual shift, and if so - what does it change? And if so - is there a sport-plus? Sport Plus and PDK let you do things like launches.. I can't see where that would do anything on a manual transmission car except perhaps speed up the throttle response.
Having recently shopped for, and purchased a 53rd childhood vehicle (I have a list somewhere of the cars I've owned in 73 years.. and motorcycles and boats - it's never too late to have a happy childhood..) I think you're pretty much on the money. I purchased a '09 Boxster "Base" with PDK (and a number of other performance options the last owner had added) with about 54k miles on it, for $21k. Needed new tires - which I'd factored into the dickering. Other than tires - it's in excellent condition. I actually preferred the base model for 2 reasons (1) It rev's more. The transmission tuning lets the engine rev more than the 3.2L engine ones, and I like hearing engines sing (2) no direct injection. Don't need the problems with carbon'd up valves or high-pressure-fuel-pumps. Have that on my '11 Cayenne turbo and really not a big fan of it. Plus the S models go for about $4-5k more. Had to be an '09 or newer - didn't need potential engine problems of the earlier ones and I wanted PDK (live in a summer tourist area - NJ shore - and driving becomes a stop/go proposition for 2 summer months.. stick is no fun, and I have nothing at all to prove in that regard.) BTW - not sure what you mean by "overhead airbag" - the Boxster has 4 airbags. One in steering wheel, one in dash in front of passenger, and one each in the doors. I don't think there was a difference in 2010.. It is a great fun car. The turning ability of it is amazing, yet it's stable at speed. Engine sings, PDK does it's thing and it's delightful with the top down. Rear visibility is iffy with the top up, but a backup camera I added took care of that (has an aftermarket radio/cd/dvd/ipod/aux/mp3/GPS in it.. which has a backup camera input.) Live while you're alive.. oh - it might be possible to do a coast-2-coast drive in it, but it is a rather "firm" ride, might become tiresome after days of lots of hours/miles. I've done that drive about 15 times now, 4 times by motorcycle. Couldn't do it with the Boxster - wife and luggage wouldn't fit. The Cayenne turbo has done a number of those trips through.
You may want to look at some of the parts diagrams available at on-line dealers, or even download the parts catalog for your car from Porsche (it's free!) - parts catalogs like to use exploded views - those views include everything in the area, so you'll have some idea of how much you have to remove in order to get to the dash to remove it. AFAIK - most manufacturers install the dash as a unit - everything in it - wiring the whole deal - and it gets bolted into the shell. While it might be possible to remove it that way, one person working on their own might find it really difficult to do, especially since the steering has been installed and the seats will be in the way. Good luck!
Using a well regarded shop is probably the safest thing. Long story short: I was enamored of BMW M-Coupes, the original 325HP "clown shoe" - and decided I needed one again (I'd owned one new when they first came out and BMW couldn't give them away - a $199/month lease!) - I found one on line in Boston. I live in NJ. I probably should have just gotten in the car and gone to look at it, but I was still working at the time, and it would have made for a very long day, or an overnight (expensive) stay. I had a group of BMW enthusiasts (the E39 Yahoo group - still exists) to ask.. one who I'd met once at Lime Rock offered to look at it for me. The seller brought the car over to my friends office at lunch time, and they went out for a ride in it. My friend was very enthusiastic about it - said it ran wonderfully. It did run wonderfully - but he missed something vital. It was raining when he looked the car over, so the light was dull, he was juggling an umbrella, and the car surface had rain drops hitting it. What he missed were two things: First was the hood had been painted - not particularly well. It was painted to correct what I assume was a fender-bender+ sort of accident, not only was the hood reworked (still had original VIN tags on it though) - it was slightly yellow compared to the rest of the car. Also - one of the frame horns inside had been cut off and a replacement section welded on. It was very well done - not too obvious except for the weld bead going around it where there shouldn't be any. Second - the gray light, rain drops hitting - completely obscured the roof of the car. The car had obviously been in a hail storm at some point. And there were numerous pings from hailstones in the roof. I actually liked the car because it really DID run and drive well. Kept it about 6 years and then traded it in on my current Cayenne (along with my old Cayenne). I figure I got what I paid for it, so the 20,000 miles I put on it (the last few years it was mostly a garage queen) were basically free.. but what I missed was the rapid appreciation in value of M-Coupes. The same coupe without the two flaws (accident and hailstones) would have been worth about $20,000 more than I got for it. It was still low miles (around 48k) and still really ran well. So that's my warning message - unless you know the real capabilities of whoever is going to look the car over - I'd stick with a pro. I did have a friend look at a 2011 Cayman for me before I bought the Boxster - but this friend is a professional automotive engineer with a specialty of testifying in court cases involving car wrecks where there may have been an equipment failure. His report was exactly what I expected, detailed and clear, with a good description of how it drove. I would have bought that one, but it was about $4,000 over my budget.
Would I be correct in assuming you had to teach the new motor the end positions of travel of the window (so it can do 1 touch up and down)? That's where you press the up button and hold it when the window is all the way up (I think you hold it for 15 seconds or so) and then you do the same for down. Had you tried the procedure before replacing the motor? IE - done the teaching to the old motor? The passenger's side only does auto-close if the window is more than 50% closed already (according to the Porsche manual) - but if it somehow lost calibration for the actual fully closed position, it might behave as you described. If the new motor was calibrated (it works by measuring the current draw from the motor - when it's stalled - fully up or down the current draw increases and that's what's remembered to set the position) - when you installed it it would then obviously work fine and fully close when the door was closed. The only reason I'm asking is I have seen instances where a fault is cured by replacing a part - where the part wasn't defective, but the replacement of the part fixed something else when it was being done. I'd suggest before buying a new motor - if people come across this - that they try first before replacing anything - try to teach the motor where the limits for up and down are. If that fails - then I'd be looking at the motor.