deilenberger

hi

thanks for the answers, what about if i bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c26f3adf5 LOL

Probably be cheaper to buy a new P!G..

I've actually replaced the cover only.. after buying a complete socket. I actually don't recall exactly how I did it, but it wasn't terribly complex to do. Worst part of the job was getting the cover-closing spring in the right place. Replacing the entire socket looks to be a PITA requiring disassembly of the two side panels, which is a major job.

Dunno on Porsche - on BMWs - working sensors make a cricket sort of noise when they're activated.. non-working ones are quiet. You do have to get your ear close to them to hear it, and it's best if you do this in a manner where you're not run over by the truck.

Could someone take a photo of the drain in the car - perhaps hold your SmartPhone under the car and push the button? I looked on my Ti edition this AM and couldn't find the drains. I suspect they may be covered by the sill-trim that is added for the Ti edition (and I believe the GTS and mebbe the turbo, or at least some turbos..)

That trim doesn't look easy to remove.

A photo would make this all clear to us simple minded people who can't find the **** things..

Thanks!

Are those drains visible if you have the trim package for the sills (like on the Ti edition)?

You may want to look into Dension GW-500 and BTA-1500.. gives you iPod, USB sticks, streaming from your phone, Bluetoof for your phone. Whole deal is less then $500. And it's not that hard to install. Make sure you have a PCM 2.1 - the PCM3 doesn't work with it (but I believe it also isn't needed, all that stuff is built in I think..)

Dunno. Aside from making sure mine switched to low range and back, I've never delved into the working bits.. so dunno. Perhaps one of the techs hanging out here can track down where the control module is. If I had to guess - the system is designed to prevent doing the switch while moving, so perhaps some signal isn't getting to the module to tell it you're not moving when it's in low range.

Are you permanantly stuck in low range now? Hate to think of what the fuel mileage would be..

Oh - a thought - a Durametric should be able to check that module and tell you what info the sensors feeding it think they're sending back to the module.

Well, the CEL came on last week. Hooked up the Durametric, and got the code C1801, which doesn't correspond to anything I've been able to find, but what it said was:

"Camshaft position sensor A, bank 1 or single sensor, value below limit, test conditions not completed, fault not currently active and causing a DTC light"

Read a few posts here and there that suggested changing the oil may help, (it was due anyway) so did that, cleared the code, and started driving again. After about 40 miles it came back on, this time with code C1601, but saying the same thing.

Any clues on what this is and how to fix? Is it something I can DIY or should I take it to the dealer?

Thanks for any advice.

Who exactly told you that changing the oil might help (I want to avoid listening to that person..)?

The code is pretty simple - your camshaft position sensor is bad or going bad.

Can you DIY? Well, since you didn't give any year/model info, and I have no idea of your skill level that's not possible for me to say. So I'd suggest finding a good independent (or use the dealer if you must..)

HINT: In general - the better your question, and the more info you provide (like model/year/miles/etc) when asking a question - the better your answers are going to be.

SO is it normal for an '04 Cayenne Turbo to ALWAYS start out in 2nd gear from a stop? Or is this a programming issue? My PST2 does not show any transmission-related faults. Or does the transmission control module need to be replaced?

It will start out in 1st if it's cool enough out and the engine has just been started. This is done to help heat up the engine and O2 sensors quickly. Other then that - it always starts out in 2nd from a stop, and that's not programmable.

11.6V at what terminal? 11.6V is a battery that is about 70% discharged.. That's very low. Is there a reason you're not running the engine? And I would be suspect of your charger (it may not be powerful enough, or it just might not be working.)

Get the battery voltage > 12.6V and try again.

Everything I've read is - the transformers are only on the mutli-color display..

Hi

My turbo multi function display screen started to fade out untimely more than one year ago and eventually became completely black 8-6 months ago.

I changed one of the two red transformers in the cluster (the upper one if I remember correctly) 5 months ago and it works like a charm.

It's not clear to me what you mean by "Radiator" coming on? Is this a warnng on the dash? If so - have you checked the coolant level?

If it is suddenly low - your cooling pipes may have sprung a leak, and that should be fixed before even starting the engine.

Michael,

The "amp" meter is a volt meter.. but 14 Volts shows the alternator is doing something. Sounds like you have a parasitic load drawing current when the vehicle is off.

Have you added any electronics to the car? If not - it requires some electrical experience to track down this sort of "leak".. and a DC ammeter.

Cliff notes: the ammeter is connected in series with the battery and the positive cable. The car is allowed to go into "rest" mode (not sure how long that takes on a Cayenne, BMW's are 15 minutes.) Rest mode is when all the modules basically go to sleep and stop listening to each other. Once that happens - and ALL lights are off - you can expect to see a constant draw of perhaps 100mA to 200mA. More then that will pull the battery down if the vehicle isn't used regularly. To track down what is causing the draw-down, you start pulling fuses, one at a time. When you pull one that drops the current draw down to the expected rest-state - you've got a big clue as to what is causing the problem... it's what is connected to that fuse.

Cautions - do not turn the ignition on with the ammeter connected - have the key OUT of the car. Turn all lights off (interior especially - people often forget this.) Do NOT try starting the car with the ammeter in the circuit (you'll blow up the ammeter.)

If you don't have the skill or patience to do this (and it can be time consuming) - take it to someone who knows what needs doing and pay them to do it.

If you've added any electronics to the vehicle - disconnect them as a first try. Sometimes aftermarket stuff does things like this.

BTW - I noticed the vehicle gets 7 mile trips quite often. It is entirely possible you aren't running the vehicle long enough after starting it to restore the power used to start it.. that can eventually discharge a battery. Perhaps you could take the long way home?

And it does nothing to address the possible failure of the actual bearing (being the cause of the rubber ripping up..) IMHO - not a great deal.

Aactually - step 3 can be done all by itself.. standard rolling code Homelink setup. You're teaching the opener (receiver) that the Homelink button (on the truck, OR a handheld remote control) is one to mate with. I forget what the limit of set transmitters the receiver can learn is..

That's certainly the only legal way to obtain one.. the disks are copyrighted, and most copyright holders get very testy with website owners who allow people to sell/swap/give-away illegal disk copies. Of course if you could find a recent disk from a car wrecker, that's a different story (I think.. haven't studied the license that carefully..)

Thanks for the writeup, I may just check mine out too as mine only gets a small amount of air in the footwells. Possibly the servo motor is only opening the vent a slight amount.

Please update us on your results.. I've had the same complaint on my '06.. my tootsies get cold in cold weather. There is air coming out the vents (which are awfully small) - but not a lot of it.. One thing I noticed - I can increase the volume of air by manually selecting the footwell, then closing all the face-level vents (the outer ones still are delivering hot air, even when not selected.)

Direct it to the footwell manually (with the buttons behind the sliding panel) and then turn off all the face level vents?

Anything come out? If not - prolly that door isn't fully opening/closing.

No.. that's not what I meant. I thought that under car settings (using the central screen on the instrument panel) there was an option to enable DLR's. There isn't (went and looked..) My bad. I think this can be set with the DuraMetric pro version, not sure about the enthusiast version. I'm sure the dealer could turn it on with PWIS.

I actually want to set it up to be always on when the switch is in the AUTO position (law over here). anybody know how to do it? I've been playing with durametric today, but did not see it anywhere... or, optionally, which sensor should I just duct tape over? :D

Don,

I have the same issue, did you ever solve this problem?

I didn't "solve" it - but it does seem to have corrected itself - mostly - usually..

Looks interesting - but what were the viscosity numbers and do they do an ash-point on ATF?

It also would be interesting if Blackstone has done Mobil-1 ATF since that apparently meets the ESSO LT41171 standard.

1. Or Denison GW500+BTA1500. Phone is excellent. Also gives you streaming audio from an iPod or USB stick, and an auxiliary audio input, plus texting (which I don't think you actually want to use.) Voice dialing won't work with a Droid phone (it's a Droid problem, not an interface problem - the Droid OS doesn't work correctly), it does work with an iPhone. Phonebook is downloaded, and log of calls is kept for as long as the phone is connected via BT. Price around $510. Installation not a huge deal. Some tricks in adjusting the phone volume (in and out) that isn't in the manual but can be found on the Dension website.

2. Yes

3. No

BTW - since you're in Europe and the Dension is made in Hungary, the price may (or may not) be less..

A far as I can see - there is no rhyme or reason to when P comes out with new maps.. It seems they are getting less frequent as the cars they fit get older. I ordered new maps last spring, and ended up getting 2009 maps, at the time the latest available. I understand sometime this past year they came out with 2010 maps (in 2011!).. so it took at least 2 years to get a 1 year update (confusing?).. When the 2.1 was still a current unit - if you look at ebay auctions for disks - it appears they came out about every 6 months or so.

Shame there isn't a "lifetime" subscription deal... they could even do it where we download and burn the DVD disks ourselves.. Tie the map update to the unit SN. Garmin does this on most of their units now - and for $99 total fee (or free in some cases) - you can go grab a new set of maps every 6 months.