deilenberger

I'm having the same problem! Any solutions?

The replacement fan arrived today (> $500) - will probably be installed tomorrow. And no - the independent doesn't have a PIWIS, and since my Durametric is VIN limited, I wasn't going to plug it in..

The size of the wiring and power connector for the fan is simply amazing - huge plug. And there is lots of electronics on the front of the fan motor.. be interesting to dissect the old one once it's replaced to see if something obvious has failed.

BTW - the old fan and the new fan both have 4 wires coming from them (and a 4 wire plug).. it isn't clear by the diagram above if it's showing 4 or 5 wires.. the two wires going to the 2nd connector appear to be alternative wires (one for V8 and one for V6).. so not sure how accurate that diagram is.

ok but when i press the button on the fob or the switch on the driver door, I cant hear the hatch unlocking or releasing. I also locked the vehicle while I was outside and briefly pressed the hatch button on the key fob, it doesnt do anything. I thought if I pressed that hatch button on the fob, it would unlock so I can open it with the hatch button above the license plate.

Mine doesn't work that way. The hatch button on mine appears to ONLY release the glass in the tailgate. To unlock the hatch - I simply unlock the truck with the unlock button. Then open it using the release button over the license plate.

wvicary - what is the "logic" on which pump is running?

I know if you remove the fuse for one pump - the other one will run when you start the truck.. and vice-versa.. (this is handy for determining which pump is kaput..)

I thought the idea was to have two pumps since the tank is a saddle tank (two chambers with a high connecting passage between them) and one side will run low so the other side picks up, plus on a steep sideways incline gas will run to the lowest side of the tank, leaving the pump exposed on the other side..

Loren, thanks for the diagram, I passed it to my mechanic.

Wvicary - he tested the fan by unplugging it from the car, then hooking up a battery to the ground and power feed wires. No trigger voltage - the fan started up and eventually reached full speed. His feeling is the speed control module on the fan has passed on and it needs a new fan.

Thanks! We had this - and strangely enough, it doesn't list the fan control unit (even though circuit diagrams show it..) Go figure..

Friend who is a mechanic has a customers '05 CS in. The problem is the primary cooling fan seems to have developed a mind of it's own.

Symptoms:

1. Never shuts off (without fuse removal)

2. Turns on as soon as the ignition is turned on - even with dead cold engine

3. Runs at what sounds like full speed (think jet engine turbine noise..)

Questions:

1. Anyone had this problem? If so - the fix was?

2. How are the fans triggered? From descriptions it appears to be controlled through the motronic, but the circuit diagrams show a fan control unit - without any inputs from anything.

3. Anyone know where the fan control unit physically is?

4. Is there a speed control module on the fan itself?

TIA!

Loren - I think the TSB you mentioned relates to tire balance and shaking when driving at speed (It refers to 70MPH..)..

The symptom I have is a shudder in the wheel when the truck is stationary and I turn the wheel quickly toward either lock position. It appears to be a somewhat common thing, I've seen it reported on several forums by owners of many 955 vehicles. I asked on another forum if the people feeling it have Servotronic or not - wondering if it's related to the Servotronic steering system (at high boost when stopped.)

I do agree that it might be caused by grippy worn tires, mine are nearing the end of life (about 1/8" to the wear marks in front) and they are the 275/40/19's..

BTW - I found the TSB referring to turbo vehicles. Sounds like a different problem since the cure includes replacing the Servotronic steering gear and control module.. it's "shaking in the steering wheel" TSB 4890, dated 4/05. It refers to specific VIN#'s all manufacturered prior to 03/05 (from memory..)

I'm very close to ordering the setup.. (just have to sell off one more extra motorcycle farkle..)

Svein Erik - did you do the install yourself? If so - where/how did you run the fiber extensions to the rear for the changer?

PCM2.0 is black, whereas PCM2.1 is a silver/grey colour.

My 2006 has PCM 2.1 - and the color of the faceplate/buttons/etc is black.

SIngle battery or dual battery model? Does it have a battery hidden under the Bose speaker in the spare tire well?

It sounds like battery failure. On the dual battery models - one battery is used to start the engine. The other one to run everything else. If that one is failing - undervoltage conditions will cause odd symptoms from modules that are powered off it. Symptoms such as you describe. The 14V you read under the hood was from the starter battery. If you have two batteries, you'd need to check voltage at the other battery.

Check to see if you have two batteries.. if you do - sounds like one is failing.

So I got my hand behind the changer. I need a little advice.

I can feel the optic connector on the bottom of the back of the CD changer. I can even pull the tab down on the connector and pull on the fiber lines. But the connector will not pop out.

Understandably I am worried about pulling too hard and breaking the optic lines.

Is there another tab that I have to move / slide / etc ?? (besides the one on the top of the connector)

Tom

Tom - I assume you got the jumper assembly from Bumperplugs by now? Take a look at it. IIRC there are two tabs on the connector, opposite each other but it's been a while... You could probably pull out your PCM and look at the cable plugged into it - I believe they all use the same connector.

I would REALLY avoid pulling on the fiber lines. They are terminated in a fitting that locks into the connector and pulling on them could pull them out of that fitting (and that would be a really ugly thing to fix..)

I ordered and already received the one from BumperPlugs. Thanks deilenberger

I'm going to look at the CD changer tomorrow (Sunday). Any hints on how to get to the fibre connector at the CD changer? I understand there's a lot of PIA trim to take off.

...T

Since you only have to remove the fiber connector from the rear of the CD changer, and plug the bypass jumper into the end of the cable, IF you have small hands this might be accomplished without removing a thing. I checked mine - and I can feel the cable going into the rear of the changer (my hands aren't huge..) I'd have to check what the catch on the cable end connector is, but IIRC - it's two tabs that must be depressed on the sides of the connector. You can probably tell when you get the jumper from BumperPlugs.

If you can, just unplug it, plug the jumper into it, wrap some small-bubble bubble wrap around it with some tape, and forgeddaboutit.

R&R of the changer - or even just R - is a royal PITA. I managed to get mine installed without removing all the stuff that's supposed to be removed by bending the mounting bracket, sliding it in and then bending it back. I don't recommend that technique. Problem is - I don't recommend the factory procedure either, you have to disassemble about half of the rear compartment, and remove the rear seats and all sorts of other fun stuff.

I'll be ordering the Dension GW500 probably next week. I want to keep my CD changer functional (I'm old, and somewhat of a Luddite, plus I'm too lazy to convert/copy all the CDs to MP3s.. and my other vehicles all have CD changers.. so..) which BumperPlugs doesn't quite seem to understand, so I'll have to decide if I want to install the GW500 back in the rear compartment, and run the iPod, USB and Aux cables forward (anyone done this?) or mount it near the PCM and run a new fiber circuit back to the changer (and reinstall the jumper on the existing connection.)

Decisions, decisions.. hence my question on if anyone has run cables to the rear - and what's involved?

I installed an aftermarket Bluetooth receiver. As such, I need to disable the CD changer.

1) Does anyone have the part number of the fiber coupler that bypasses the CD changer?

2) Is bypassing (at the changer) recommended over having the dealer disable?

Thanks

1. There are aftermarket jumpers/couplers available. BumperPlugs has one for about $35. I also saw one on another website for around $25 - but didn't note the website. In the Porsche parts system - there are two things listed, and not certain which is the coupler:

- 999 650 039 40 "Connector Optical Waveguide"

- 999 650 091 40 "Plug bridge optical waveguide"

EDIT: Just looked up the 2nd one on Suncoast - and the photo looks identical to the one I removed when I installed the CD changer: http://www.suncoastp...L65009140B.html $14.95.. cheap even!

- Name of the image is "plugjumper" - another clue..

In the description it sez: "This connector will close an open port on a fiber optic cable."

2. Not the same thing. The MOST network requires a continuous path. Removing the CD changer makes a break in the path, so nothing on the MOST loop will work.. that includes the Bose amps, DVD for navigation, etc. You NEED the coupler to keep the rest of the system working. Disabling the changer by a dealer just tells your PCM not to look for it. Different things entirely.

Make sure you didn't accidently hit the turn-signal on the way out.. that turns on the parking light on that side, and makes the door chime bong away when the door is open just to tell you that you did it. BTDT, and I usually forget about what's causing it next time it happens, until I figure it out again.

thanks deilenberger

I actually understand the loop concept fairly well ... though I cannot seem to find the coupler (part number) you are speaking of.

BumperPlugs has one for around $35.. and let me look and see if I can find it.. http://www.bumperplugs.com/BPindex.html - CD Changer Closure - $39.

The Porsche part (I think - no picture):

999 650 091 40 "plug bridge optical waveguide" <- might be it, but no bets on that.. description sorta sounds right and the part was cheapish.. Probably be worth calling one of the on-line sponsoring vendors and asking.

1. Could be. The Dension GW500 which supposedly will coexist with a CD changer requires taking the changer out of the MOST loop and plugging the fiber links directly into the GW500 - it then handles the switching between it's (Bluetoof, iPod, USB, Aux) functions and the CD changer. IIRC I think the one you got is a ripoff of the MoBridge - which cannot coexist with the changer (big downside IMHO..) If it doesn't have a direct plugin connection dedicated to the changer - I think the changer has to go.

2. No - you need a jumper connector. That comes on P!Gs that were delivered "CD-changer-ready" with no CD changer (mostly '06 and newer). The MOST network is a loop network, unidirectional. Just unplugging the fiber connector will break the loop and nothing on it will work then. You need the jumper connector. A few vendors offered one IIRC.. some searching may turn it up for you.

Certainly be worth checking the temperature sensors - if you can get at them. One of them is located on the cast cooling manifold at the rear of the engine, and looks to be a bear to get to - probably requiring intake manifold removal..

Come On!! Are you serious? Im searching on here trying to figure out why I have trans fluid leaking because I just changed my coolant pipes preemptively and I found this. Never had a tranny fluid problem before so I wasn't prepared for this. Im about ready to call it quits with this truck... When I fix this leak I think my next stop is Carmax.

If the coolant that was in the pipes was allowed to puddle in the V of the engine until it got to the level where it overflowed the dam on the back of the V - changing the pipes could have caused the leak. The coolant is very odd stuff - when it dries it hardens to the consistancy of a rock.. and I imagine that's what caused the seals to go out. Some gets on the shaft, dries and eventually destroys the seal.

BTW - who are you asking if they're serious?

As to switching between the Denison and the CD changer everything I've read about Porsche MOST systems is you need to eliminate the CD changer section of the loop to use an iPod but you can research more and determine.

If you install please let us know how it works. It would be great to keep the CD changer active and have an active iPod inerface.

According to both Dension and BumperPlugs - on the Cayenne you can keep the changer and have the iPod interface. The Gateway 500 has a switch assembly (looks like it also has audio phone plug inputs of some type) - with a simple switch on it. Flipping the switch takes the Gateway out of the MOST loop, and apparently allows the headunit to then recognize the CD changer again (and it's also done if you take it in for service so the MOST net doesn't show an unknown device.)

There are some specific switch positions on the GW51M02 shown for the PCM with CD-Changer enabled. If you go to Dension's website - they have a PDF of the installation sheet that shows most of this. I think BumperPlugs has a more detailed installation instructions for a Cayenne.

Total cost with a Dension BlueToof interface from BumperPlugs is $500 for the Gateway and BlueToof - and it comes with an iPod cable, and it looks like a standard USB extension cable (for those of us who haven't moved to iPods yet - but have lots of MP3 USB sticks and players kicking around.) According to the writeup on it - it can even use the PCM 2.1 to display the folder structure on a memory stick - name a folder as an album name (and it appears then as the CD name) and name the songs inside the folder (they show as the track names.)

Looks like a good solution.. have to think of what I have kicking around to sell so SWMBO won't notice I bought it.. :huh: Anyone need any BMW M3 winter rims and tires? Don't have the M3 anymore (gotta get off my butt and take some pics and sell these puppies.. they're just taking up space in the garage.)

gateway500mostdualfotinstallguide1.pdf

The Cartronics (which appears to be a kit with a Mobrige interface) is almost twice the price of the Dension..

I found this statement on Dension's website: http://www.dension.com/product/iPod-iPhone-car-adapters/iPod-car-kits/bluetooth-car-kits/gateway-500 "Gateway 500 emulates a CD changer, but has a switch which allows you to swap between the Gateway and the changer."

According to BumperPlugs - who is a dealer - this works on a Cayenne. Sounds also like the Dension will use a USB memory stick as a source, which the Mobridge apparently dosen't. Since I have lots of CD's I haven't bothered moving to MPEG format - and lots of CD cartridges - this sounds like a better (and cheaper) solution for me.

I posted this on 6speedonline.. worth mentioning here (I'll post it seperately in case Loren wants to sticky it):

Instrument Cluster Repairs

I happened to be in my independents shop this afternoon (BS'ing, the P!G is running fine..) and noticed a brochure - with a Cayenne cluster on the front cover (along with other instrument clusters..)

Brochure says they can fix Cayenne (and Tuareg) clusters..

http://www.bba-reman.com/catalogue/D...edProduct=1398

Dunno the cost - they apparently can do it on an exchange basis, so dunno how that works with the odometer.

Just a FWIW.. (no experience with them, I'm just passing on the info..) __________________

Make sure the glass in the hatch is closed correctly. That caught me more then once (>!< on the dash, lights stayed on, gong bonging away..)

Folks, is it the Dension 500 that allows you to keep the CD changer function (just loosing disk 6?) and I seem to recall there being a bluetoof adaptor available for it also.

TIA!

Bob is the Oil Guy on ZDDP: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-107/Concern: People are worried about the SM oils not having as much ZDDP as the SL and older oils. The reason ZDDP has been used for years is not because of its superior performance but rather its low cost and dual function as an antioxidant. It also has anticorrosive properties.

There are other additives. Some newer oils do not have any ZDDP, and they are excellent products. Just the same, I prefer oils with ZDP for now. The research shows that 0.03 is all that is needed and has the same function as higher levels. The only reason to have more is because your engine is consuming the ZDDP secondary to borderline lubrication from oil alone.

And lastly, too much can be corrosive itself and has shown in some tests to actually increase wear.

Well worth reading: http://www.bobistheo.../motor-oil-101/

His recommendations for 0W-40 Synthetics (as he calls them "Full Synthetics"):

- Amsoil 0W-40

- Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (a thicker 30 grade oil, almost a 40 grade oil)*

- Mobil One 0W-40

- Penn Ultra Synthetic 5W-40

- Renewable Lubricants Inc. 5W-40*

The discussion on viscosity and what it actually means is particularly interesting.