deilenberger

From the Mobil1 FAQ on Bobs the Oil Guy:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/mobil-1-qa/

Why does the Canadian PDS for the 0w40 differ from the US version? (flash point is different: 236C for the Canadian one, 230C for the US one, no pour point on the US one, cST at 40 and 100 different..etc).

The Mobil 1 0W-40 is a global product, and it is the same formulation in almost every area of the world. Though we try to maintain complete consistency in the typical properties that are reported for a given product, there are some minor inconsistencies in the values reported in different countries. Note, however, that these inconsistencies do not reflect any differences in the formulation, quality or performance of the product.

Mobil prides itself on having unique relationships with OEM's. What specific advantages does this give you when making Mobil 1? The 600,000-mile Mercedes test is one example. Is Mobil paying these companies to use Mobil 1, or do they choose it based on its performance?

One of the many benefits of having a strong relationship with OEMs is that two-way communication can occur between the engineers who develop Mobil 1 and the engineers who design automotive engines. This ensures that we can develop and test Mobil 1 according to the latest engine technology and specs. In turn, the OEMs stay aware of the capabilities of high-quality engine oils, like Mobil 1, in their engines. Due to confidentiality provisions, we aren't at liberty to discuss our business relationships with OEMs. However, we are confident that the OEMs who rely upon Mobil 1 as a factory-fill believe our product gives their engines the performance and protection it deserves. You don't have to take our word for this – watch some of the videos on our website featuring testimonials from some of our OEM partners, including Porsche.

FWIW..

Just curious - what is there to "like" about one oil over another?

If it meets manufacturer's spec's (or exceeds them) and does what it's supposed to do - it's just oil. I have submitted engine oil for analysis many times (primarily on motorcycles, but also on cars) - and the results tell me that you almost never experience a failure due to inferior oil. I'm delighted Working4it tracked down that Mobil-1 meets the Esso standards for the ATF.. That's gonna save me mucho $$ when I do a transmission oil change.

I couldn't find that style in the PET just the round clip on type that has a 955 part number so I tried to remove one from my 05 but could only remove the part you turn and it has no part numbers on it.

I couldn't find it in PET either..

The part you turn is what I'm missing. The local dealer ordered some today - but I'm willing to bet they are the wrong parts (this dealer more or less either does that, or never orders the parts..)

What they ordered was:

95555122701B41 "Carpet Fitting" (which I absolutely don't need..

955551229017A8 "Fitting Cap" which is undoutably the round top part - again won't work with my mats.

Sigh.. some days it just isn't worth chewing through the restraints.. :cursing:

Hi,

Just bought a Cayenne 2006 with carpet mats. The two clips for the passenger floor mats are missing. They are the ones that turn 90 degrees to keep the mat in place. The fixings in the foot well are still there just the part that rotates.

Any idea of the part number and/or where I can get them.

I can post a picture if that helps?

Thanks,

Alistair

Edit - I think they are VW parts and the number is 3D0-864-287

Thanks...

Anyone confirmed these are VW parts? And are they available in colors? A vacuum at a car wash in LA ate one of mine..

Do you own a string of McDonald's to have "berger" in your last name?

Amazing. Last time I heard that was grade school 55 years ago.

There are specialty sockets available at Sears (and probably other vendors) with teeth on the inside. You tap them on to the round exterior edge of the drain plug, the teeth grab and grab tighter as you turn anti-clockwise and spin it off. Much less likely to break then an EZOut in a shallow hex recess. I have also known people to tap in a Torx driver slightly oversize in an allen (hex) bolt and it grips enough (cutting into the metal) that you can spin it out. If the hex recess is stripped - at some point in time, it was overtightened.

You do have a torque wrench right? Usually crush washer applications have an initial torque, then a final torque setting. First seats the washer, second crushes it slightly to make the seal. I doubt if the JBWeld would work - since there is going to be some residual oil on the bolt no matter how clean it is when you start (you mentioned it leaks when the engine isn't running..) You can't epoxy to oil.

No, I'm not suggesting to use an O-ring. It's a washer specifically made for this purpose. There's even a picture of it in the link I posted, which I guess you completely skipped over.

Oh, and so far... don't add racer to your user name until you've earned it. :rolleyes:

Saw them - they are a real "maybe" - they might work if the metal part of the washer crushes enough that the rubber insert can seal. It's still a bodge (google if you haven't heard the term.) The right way is to fix the damage to the drain flange.

And I'm curious - what sort of racing qualifies you to use "racer" in your user name? My racing was mostly on motorcycles and sailboats, both of which are great instruction on the properties and use of different materials..

In an environment (BMW M cars) that I'm very familiar with - where owners always want more HP and tinker incessantly to try to get it - I've never heard of an E85 conversion. Not once. For a route to extra HP - I think it's a non starter unless you're building a track only vehicle.

It's the pan, not the block. The area of the drain plug isn't going to be susceptible to expansion/contraction. Viton will work just fine, it's already being used as valve stem seals and other higher temp, moving part areas. A drain plug doesn't even compare.

http://www.dupontela...asp?article=BMW

If you scroll down here, you can see they actually make viton/metal oil plug washers.

http://www.oildrainplug.com/index.htm

I'll agree "it doesn't even compare" - you're suggesting to use an O ring in a crush ring application. The O ring will be crushed flat, and start to creep out of the interface between the pan and plug. The link you provided shows designs like "Flanged Head w/ rubber o-ring under head" - NOTE rubber O-ring "UNDER" head - it's a recessed O ring, that will be partly compressed when the plug metal to metal surfaces bottom out. The other designs are using a rubber coated washer - not an O ring.

Hey - the OP can do as he wants, but from someone who designed lots of equipment that used O ring seals - using it under the existing pan bolt/crush-ring without a recess for the ring - isn't a correct application for it, and is going to fail.

BTW - I'll have to think about adding "racer" in my username.. it seems so authoritative.

I haven't done it myself - but I was there when the dealer was opening them up. You need to remove the center seat-belt mounts - they cover part of the access port... you'll need triple-square drivers for that task. You also need a big screwdriver and hammer, or the correct VW/Porsche tool to remove the locking rings that hold the parts in the tank. Most people here use the screwdriver/hammer technique.

HTH, at least removing the access covers (after you cut the carpet - there is a faint embossed outline on the carpet showing where to cut) will tell you which side is leaking. If you replace one, I'd replace both. Things like this love to fail right after you fix it's twin.. and run the tank low before starting the job.

The tank isn't removed - the access plates above the tank under the rear seat are. You can access both the filter and the fuel-pressure-regulator from there - and see what is leaking. It's a bad idea to leave your leaking Cayenne in the garage.. you don't really want your garage to go up in flames right?

Use of a viton washer is a bad idea. You don't see this sort of seal anyplace on an aluminum block engine for a reason - the expansion/contraction of the aluminum will make that washer creep out from the aluminum crush washer.

This is a case of suck it up and get it fixed right. I would suggest the OP take it to a pro who is likely to have the knowledge, experience and ability to actually fix it - not try a band-aid solution that well may cost you an engine (loss of all oil when heading down the highway will do that.) You're dicking around with a $26,000 engine in order to try to save a visit to a mechanic. To me - that equation doesn't work. Nor do many of the suggestions here - there is a reason for the aluminum crush washer used in an aluminum sump.

And I'd suggest the OP refrain from working with his "friend" in the future... it sounds like a costly friend to have.

Don that is wonderful news. How hard is the fuel filter to replace labor-wise? I know you guys saw my video and said my start up is normal, but it sure seems sluggish.....

It's an ugly job since both sides have to come out and you're working inside the fuel tank. Probably not that "hard" - but it probably is that unpleasant to do.

LED bulbs, compared to stock, even if the exact same form-factor/size will disrupt overall electric function simply based on their differing load (less) requirements compared to stock incandescent. Often the case is you can replace a few bulbs with no consequences but one you get to a certain number of bulbs some electrical issues surface. If your switch is OK, and not damaged, try putting stock bulbs back everywhere you replaced them and then try LEDs only in the center console (after you put stock bulbs back in the center to confirm the console is not damaged). I remember reading about the requirement for LED bulb power adaptors when upgrading -- much like putting HID headlights in non HID vehicles requires more then a basic bulb/housing swap.

The LED bulbs draw milliamps - the incandescents draw amps. (1000:1 ratios..) They should only cause a problem IF the bulb has a monitoring circuit that measures currenf flow through the incandescent and triggers when it measures less current then it should. The only other problem might be if an LED bulb is put in the wrong way, it may present a short-circuit to the monitor or switch, drawing too much current and shutting down the circuit. More then one person has killed off an entire lighting circuit putting the LED in backwards in the BMW world.

Sounds like dragging brakes (dunno what "breaks" are on a car..) Will the car coast any distance?

Quick update - the P!G has gone > 10,000 mile since the filter was changed, and started flawlessly each and every time :) The filter assembly was the problem.

While I was in LA (drove there in it from NJ) - a brand new Porsche boxed filter showed up on ebay - by a seller in LA. I won it for $20 (!!) and went to his house to pick it up. It is still in the truck since I'm still on the road driving back from LA.

The trip is almost 10,000 miles so far.. I took the scenic route. ;) The truck so far has given me awful trouble - a front sidemarker bulb burned out. Once I figured out how - it took a few minutes to change. It has used NO oil at all, and no coolant (I had changed the pipes to aluminum ones before I left.) It also has run across several deserts at temps well over 100F, AC keeping me fat and happy - and the temperature gauge has stayed rock steady at 180F.

I've been taking photos of the P!G in various places along the trip - so I'll post a travelog of sorts when I'm done.. just shows you CAN leave home in a Cayenne.. (seems some people are afraid to..)

I'll answer my own question..

On a '03 to I think at least '08 - the bulb can be replaced without removing the housing. Remove the screw above and the screw below the housing in the fender well. Pull the liner out enough to get your hand in behind it. Feel around for the wire leading to the housing. Follow it to the housing. Pull the rubber socket off the tubular tit that it is pushed onto. Pull it out between the liner and the bumper.. the wire is long enough. Replace bulb. Reassembly is the reverse.

Total time, including futzing - about 10 minutes. If I had to do it again, it would be less then 5 minutes.

My father called our local Porsche dealership here in the UK this morning to check the part number given above for the Cayenne S. They said this is a rubber joiner hose with no branches off of it (which makes sense as there is no additional feed required with no turbo). They also said they havent had any Cayenne S's in with this as a problem. The cracked 'T' piece issue seems to be a Cayenne Turbo issue. They dont keep this rubber joiner in stock as they never need it. The main coolant pipes however they keep a stock of at all times which I think tells a story in itself. If I get time after work tonight I will fire the car up and see if the problem has been resolved with the new metal hoses.

Hmmm....

If you weren't in the UK I could give you the hose I bought after receiving some inaccurate advice - cost was reasonable for an unneeded part - around $18 or so..

Your dealer is correct. It's a formed hose. No plastic T on the S model.

Does the light assembly have to be removed to JUST replace a bulb? I'm in Billings MT with one side marker out, and I suspect the nearest dealer is about 500 miles away. I have the bulbs and torx drivers..

Can you reach the socket with the fender liner pulled back?

Unless you like doing thankless jobs and risking damage to the starter and transmission.. REPLACE the plastic crap with aluminum. Order a new T fitting, and if you want metal (I'd suggest stainless or copper) - take the new one to Home Depot, and ask the plumbing department sales dude to find you something that will "work" - then assemble it with teflon tape on the threaded bits (it will likely be 4 pieces fit together - a T and 3 barbed fittings), put it on and forgeddaboutit.

Or continue risking your engine.. your choice.

BTW - the temp on the Cayenne should NEVER hit 220F. Never ever. I've been driving across the deserts of the US with mine for the past month+ - in 110F temps at 80mph, with 10% upgrades ane the truck loaded up and AC keeping the cabin nice and chilly. The needle NEVER moved off 180F.. except once in a while, it went about half-a-needle width below 180F. If you see 220F shut the engine off and call the flatbed. SOMETHING IS SERIOUSLY WRONG. And the wrong could cost you an engine.

Strlctly WAGs, but a plugged expansion valve might cause excessive pressure buildup... and most AC systems have a blowoff valve of some sort.

Question - when refilling the system, was it evacuated with a vacuum pump and then refilled or just "topped up"..?

The right way to fill a system is by weight, after pumping it down with a vacuum pump to remove any moisture in the system. If moisture is in the system, it will tend to freeze in the expansion valve, and might be causing your symptoms. The really right way to refill a system is to replace the receiver/dryer, then pump it down, and then fill it by weight.

Funny thing - I thought of the same idea, using the existing bearing support and large rubber (viton) stoppers.. :)

Can't imagine why you would want to use Viton for this application ???

Reasons:

1. 1st thing that came to mind (I have some boxes of them..) - and viton stoppers are readily available, making the price reasonable. No custom fabrication required.

2. Viton has excellent chemical resistance properties, and it's not overly effected by ozone exposure - both important in this application. Temp properties are also good.

3. They provide adequate resiliency without being "plastic" like. The bearing needs some isolation from the surrounding structure.. if it didn't it could be simply solid mounted in steel.

Hope that helps you imagine it..

Ah see they cut the old mount for removal. Clever solution - now how about we look into a group buy? :)

That looks like a great idea -- thanks for posting. Not sure how much is hype though. The same company sells a cheaper support:

http://www.vertexaut...sc%20Guibo.aspx

Bottom line, if it works, it makes a lot of sense. The red-colored pieces must be a shock polymer of some sort to allow some torque/flex in the shaft. How long until those polymers deteriorate?

Tthat's not the support - it's a flex coupling between the transmission and shaft. Very common on German cars instead of a CV or universal joint.

Funny thing - I thought of the same idea, using the existing bearing support and large rubber (viton) stoppers.. :)

Price seems just a tad high since you can buy a new support bearing for $70 (Ebay - multiple vendors) and there are rebuilt driveshafts for around the same money. It looks to me as if the driveshaft still has to be disassembled (I could be wrong on this) to get the old support off, if so I'd just go with the replacement bearing/mount from Ebay. If not - it might not be a bad solution. Be a great solution if it was around $200 or so.

One thing I thought of - the mount failure may be caused by the bearing starting to seize up - if so - this isn't going to help at all. If anyone has done the bearing replacement (or even driveshaft replacement) - what was the condition of the old bearing?