deilenberger

If I lookup my VIN# - it lists this as one of the options installed.. but darned if I can find it. An earlier ('04) Cayenne that I drove had some switches in the drivers side door pocket that I believe were the release.. none on my pepper..

Any clues? Could Porsche's computer be WRONG? Should I try to file a claim and get them to install it..?:jump:

Oh - another question. Anyone had the inside fuzzy trim off the tail-gate? I can't find any references on how it is removed. Some hints might make me start leaning toward the camera solution (I'm flipping and flopping on this..)

TIA!

So far this project has gone about nowhere..

I'm torn between a camera, the hole-less electromagnetic proximity systems and the ultrasonic systems.

I did track down the reverse light power source - it's the blue/black wire going to the taillights. I've taken apart the wire duct going from the tail-gate to the body.. there is room on the passenger side one for another wire or two.

Decision points:

Camera:

1. It's gonna be a PITA to mount and wire
2. I've looked at wireless - and ones that work (and apparently many don't) - still are a bit marginal in performance, and the ones I found mount to the licence-plate screws. Which is a problem because it puts the camera in the way of the rear-hatch release handle. They also still require at least a power feed into the vehicle, and there simply aren't any handy holes going through the tailgage, and I'm not about to make any.
3. Looked at one that's being sold on Ebay - camera alone - that replaces one of the license plate lights (and it even has a plate light built into it.) Still requires a power feed and a video out feed - that would then have to be strung up through the duct that surrounds the hatch-hinge, down through the body and all the way up to the front.
4. They all use a remote monitor - which really looks added on if it's plopped on the dash. I thought about putting one inside the sunglass cubby overhead, which would be a pretty neat spot since there is also switched power available in the roof console (for the Homelink unit.) BUT - if used with a wired camera - still have to get the video cable up there and down and all the way to the back to the camera. That's a lot of taking stuff apart to run that cable.
5. Prices - I found the AudioVox - which got almost decent reviews for $100 on several websites. A place local to me has it for full retail - $150. BestBuy may or may not have it in stock. This is a wireless one, but it only comes with the license plate mount camera. And it apparently comes with a hard-wire cable in case the wireless doesn't work. http://reviews.cnet....7-33520636.html
6. Wonder how the camera would work through the rear window? Probably not all that great since the tint is fairly dark..

Electromagnetic induction units: (http://www.sportsimp...nbuelsekit.html)

1. Seem like a good thing, no holes in the bumper. Easy installation (or as easy as it gets - which isn't awfully easy.) Have to remove the bumper - biggest part of the job.
2. Problem is - reviews on their performance have been uniformly miserable. Most of the reviews I saw suggest they are simply a bad idea that doesn't work. There are known problems with having the real bumper in close proximity (the large metal one under the bumper cover.) It might be possible to mount the antenna for this type far enough away that it might work.
3. No visual display - simply different beep patterns - but I'm used to that from our BMW so that's OK *IF* it works.
4. Price - found this one for $10 with free shipping at one website. I might just order one because it's so cheap.. http://cgi.ebay.com/...r-/310315976656 Walmart actually has this system in some of their stores. Dunno if that's good or bad. Also dunno the price from Wally - it's not priced on line.

UltraSonic sensor systems:

1. This is what Porsche and every other manufacturer uses.. must be a reason for that. It likely isn't strictly price driven since the electromagnetic would be cheaper and simpler to manfacturer and install. There was the option with the Cayenne to not only have this - but also have the tailgate mounted camera system (double-bagging)..
2. Requires drilling holes in the bumper. I've installed these before (on a BMW M3) - and the first hole is the scary one, the rest aren't so bad. Bumper must be removed.
3. One place I visited that installed this sort of system (an auto-audio store, called.. AutoAudio..) claimed this wasn't possible on the Cayenne since the real bumper is so close behind the cosmetic cover. I did some careful looking - and they were FOS. The factory mounts the sensors in the flattish band near the top of the bumper (shown in the photos above), laying under the car and actually looking - that is a clear area ABOVE the real metal reinforcement. Plenty of room for the sensors.
4. Colors - found some on ebay with sensors in various colors, including one "ice-water silver" - which looked a lot like Iceland Silver.. so that would be OK except it was coming from China, and they allowed themselves about 30 days to deliver it. My attention spam isn't that long. I couldn't find any in the US that had the range of colors available on Ebay.. but did find some that could be painted. Problem there - I can't find a car touchup spray that is even close to Iceland Silver (it also took extensive research to even find a Porsche touchup kit for this color..)
5. Noplace near me carries these - except the place that claimed they wouldn't fit. And theirs are in black, and they claimed they couldn't be painted. And they wanted 10x the amount for the kit then it cost on Ebay. So that's not a winner.
6. This would not require any wiring inside the tail-gate, or through the hinge assembly - which is a GOOD THING. All the wiring would be stationary - from behind the bumper, into the body cavity on the right side where the Bose amp and CD changer live. Backup light wire is available right there..
7. These are available with "wireless" and an LED display http://www.sportsimp...sensor-kit.html or much simpler with just the beep-beeper http://www.sportsimp...di4flmobas.html - I'm much more likely to get the simpler one, just because I've had the other one and the lights were pretty much a distraction. More for bling then use..

Thoughts? Anyone BTDT and want to share? I saw on 6-speed-on-line the chap (I think he posted here also) who modified his PCM to take a video in signal (with a $90 module from the UK) - which was pretty neat, but still requires mounting a camera somewhere outside and getting the wiring inside and up to the PCM.

Here you go

I don't think the photo made it...

Ah - now it did. Thanks!

Folks,

I'm sort of planning on a DIY install of a parking-distance-sensor system on the rear of my truck. I've found an Ebay source that makes a system much like what Porsche used, they even have the sensors in a color that looks similar to my Iceland Silver (ice-water-blue).. I'd like to install the sensors exactly where Porsche put them, so.. a photo perhaps with some identifying markers (like so far from XX) would be greatly useful.

Will likely document for a DIY..

TIA!

How would the engine management know you have N rated tires? Sounds like dealership blather to me..

I couldn't get a thing out of them. They seemed totally clear. Which is why I'm confused about this thread topic...what are these particular drains for? I'm trying to clear whatever drain is causing water to dump in my driver's side footwell when the AC is running on hot days

Have you cleared the drain I mentioned above? The one behind the kick panel under the glove box? I can watch water dripping from mine (about even with the front wheel, and about 1" toward center from the right side of the truck) when the AC is running. That is the drain that sounds plugged. And it would fill up your passenger footwell if it plugs up.

Can someone clarify this thread? I'm confused. I have the same issue on my 04 CS Driver's side. I called dealer to ask and they said its the AC drains and is accessed from under vehicle. I assumed its the rubber nipple-like drain so i ran a coat hanger up there and got nothing.

What is the drain mentioned above regarding the engine bay/firewall? Everywhere I look I get a different story.

TIA!

As far as I know (and thats not terribly far so don't take it as gospel) - the AC evaporator (which makes the water that needs draining) is on the right side of the transmission hump... as is the drain.

There may be a cowl (the plastic bit below the windshield with an air intake grille in it) drain on the left side, but I can't imagine it running through the passenger compartment. Might be a sunroof drain that if plugged will overflow and run down into the passenger compartment (very common on BMWs that have a very similar sunroof.. cure is push weed-wacker line through the drain..)

Also - FWIW - I spent some quality time with my CS over the weekend, picking munge (leaves, twigs, those dangly things oak trees send out in great abundance this time of year) out from around the hinges on the hood. Turns out there is a sort of recess that the hood hinges pivot in, and mine (both sides) was full of this crap in various stages of decomposition.

I started out with a long needle nose pliers, grabbing and yanking, next came a set of forceps (getting deeper in) and finally a needle hose nozzle on my airgun off my compressor, seemed to blow the final layer out. There was a LOT of this crap. I was concerned about it plugging up any drains that happen to be in that area, and with it causing corrosion or rust since it traps moisture.

It was a semi-satisfying job, I knew it was done (satisfying), but couldn't see anything new on the CS (semi-satisfying..)

Just from memory (didn't take any photos) - I seem to recall when changing the HVAC filter that the drain tube is readily available at the top - with a plastic fitting coming out of the evaporator box, and a rubber funnel shaped tube going down through the firewall. Would seem rather easy to clean out from inside the car (you only need to remove one Torx screw to remove the panel under the glovebox..)

That's from memory, so I could be all wet (pun intentional..)

I have an 05 CS with PCM (2.0 i think, its CD) I have this SIM tray.

Where are you guys using the VIN to see the options?

http://www.autoatlanta.com/life/vin/vin.php

How did I end up "with preparation for car phone" but with a PCM without the phone buttons in the upper left hand corner?

Hmmm... too bad you're in WA - I'd be willing to swap my "Without" for your "With" (since it's doing you no good..)

The other clue as to prep or not - apparently - the prep'd ones have some additional buttons on the overhead console - opposite where the HomeLink buttons are. I don't have those.

Found it at the VIN lookup site:

I9W0 - Without preparation for installation of car phone

So this idea isn't gonna work.. back to thinking about the backup camera.. :censored:

Whats your VIN #?

WP1XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

And in looking at the service manual - I'm betting I don't have the phone module located under the passenger seat - so it's a no go unless I want to fork out about $2,000 for parts and do a lot of labor. Sounds like a non-winner. **** Porsche for putting that SIM card drawer there - it seems like a big tease.

Most mobiles in the US don't use GSM/SIM.. at least mine don't. If it did - there is no way to remove it.

Rox - great thread. You're in NJ also - I'd love to see the end result when you get the backup camera working.. (I'm at the shore - Spring Lake area..)

I can't seem to find the link now, but Porsche apparently have a TSB stating that anti-seize paste can insulate the spark plug, preventing a proper ground connection and therefore causing potential misfire issues. I'll post if I can find.

Mark

Hmmm.. seems Porsche was thinking along the same lines as what I'd read on other vehicles.. :clapping: :thankyou:

Since you have TipTronic - it's possible you're doing what I did at first.. which was - I tended to rest my hands on the two spokes on the wheel with my thumbs around the rim. Turns out doing that often let my clumsy hand tap the TipTronic button on the spoke - which instantly puts it in manual mode and downshifted the transmission one gear. Surprised me and took a bit to figure out what I was doing. Hands are now in proper 10-2 positions on the rim.

I believe you can test that yourself by unplugging the fuse for the primary pump, and then the system should switch to the secondary pump (they both are actually "primaries" IMHO - since they both provide full pump capabilities - just for their own side of the tank..) I did this test when I was seeking my balky starting problem. I first pulled one of the fuel pump fuses while the truck was running - it continued running. I replaced it, and took the other fuse out - the engine stopped (so that was the active pump). After cycling the ignition - the other pump (that I'd put the fuse back in for) was selected and the engine restarted.

Just for giggles, I did a Google on SIM Card US Carriers - and find that SIM/GSM cards are available for prepaid service from several US carriers, and the service is provided by AT&T and T-Mobile. My PCM 2.1 has the SIM card drawer. If I press PHONE - it tells me no card is inserted. Does this mean that by purchasing a SIM/GSM card I can enable the phone (even if it has just it's own phone number)?

Just curious since this would seem to be a GOOD THING if it worked - the cards are available for $10 with $5 worth of service credit (50 minutes - good for 1 year), making it an ideal emergency phone for the Cayenne..

Thoughts?

http://phonecard.bootsnall.com/unitedstates_tmobile_sim.htm

http://www.telestial.com/view_product.php?ID=LSIM-US02

http://www.telestial.com/userguides/LSIM-US02.pdf

KJ - I'm just guessing that since that was his only post, and it was back in 2008 - chances are slim he's going to answer. AFAIK - PCM 2.1 doesn't have voice control, unless the phone module uses it (which is useless in the US anyway since we don't use SIM cards for our phones..)

I'd very strongly suggest never to use anti-seize on any fitting where the manufacturer doesn't specify it's use. On spark plugs it's a bad idea because it can change the effective force when torquing the plug in place, allowing for much higher force on the plug threads for a given turning force. This leads to stripped heads. It also works as an insulator - undesirable when it's in the heat-path used to cool the plug (ie - threads on the plug to threads on the head.) Insulating the heat path will lead to overheating and possibly melting down the spark plug. A bad thing.

I've used it on spark plugs in aluminum heads for years with no problem at all.....on both racing and street engines. Just sayin'.......

Can you show us any documentation where Porsche recommends it's use?

Anyone added one (I have the PCM2.1)? If so - how? And how much? Backing into spaces isn't my strong point with a vehicle this size..

I'd love to have a fuel filter and FPR in hand so I could do some checking on what valves are where.. it seems there are multiple places the valves COULD be - but no real documentation that I could find on where they're supposed to be. The fuel system diagram sort of shows some in the fuel pumps, but that's about it. I uploaded the fuel system diagram.. still not at all clear where the check valves really are..

ATI CAY2 0604 In Tank Fuel Delivery.pdf

The earlier beta-6 was somewhat buggy. I'd suggest DL'ing the latest (I think it's 6.0.8 - dated April 14th). I had similar results with the early beta version - and sometimes it could be coaxed to read other modules if I reset the instrument cluster (by pulling the cluster fuse - located in the left side fuse panel in the door opening.) The cluster apparently is also the "Gateway" - and until it can talk through the Gateway it can't access many of the other modules.

6.0.8 read EVERYTHING on my '06 without a hitch. And that's on an old IBM Thinkpad with a Pentium-III processor and WindowsXP - SP2. No need to reset the cluster either. I was even able to read the wiper module, and found there was an error on my rain-detector (which hadn't been working correctly) - after clearing the error the rain-detector works just fine.

One or two things that may help:

If your PC has WiFi - disable it for the session, it chews up quite a bit of processor. If you are using a laptop - plug it in. As someone here pointed out - when running on battery - many laptops slow down the processor to save power. Unload any unnecessary crap that gets loaded on startup.

I haven't tried the latest on my Netbook - but since it has about the same or more processing power as the old Thinkpad I suspect it should be OK. The interface does work reasonably well on a 10" screen on the Netbook - something I can't say for some other diagnostics programs that live on it.

I was quite impressed with the capabilities of 6.0.8 - the real time monitoring seems to work well, and the ability to read coding options (and change them if I knew what I was doing - and I don't..) might come in useful someday.