deilenberger

I paid $176 for mine (including shipping,) with 5 included vehicle packages, and one year of updates. I edited my post above - the wear indicator for the transfer case on a 2011 Cayenne is easily readable now (and mine looks quite healthy.)

This same device is sold in the US by several vendors such as NAPA, Matco  https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/EASYDP2/EASYDIAG-2-0-PLUS-2-CAR-LINES/#to-details for less money ($130, with two manufacturer's included.) And I expect that's why ICarScan isn't sold in the US.  This version has links for both an Android interface and an IoS interface.

In either case it seems quite capable and the only read problem I've had is when I tried to read modules the Turbo doesn't have. One other one which I believe is a Porsche bug (since two Porsche dealers told me they don't do it and to fogeddaboutit) is battery "registration" when a battery is changed. It gives a communications error.  I had a shop try to register a new battery with several diagnostics tools they had (including SnapOn - $$$) - and they also got the same thing.

Best buys on it are Ebay - I ordered mine on Wednesday, DHL had it at my door on Friday, right from Hong Kong.

Just downloaded the Toyota module for wife's RX-350 - and it's even more extensive then the Porsche version.

As mentioned earlier, iCarScan is not as capable as the other systems as it is not Porsche specific and lacks many of their diagnostic capabilities.  You simply do not get as much with a universal phone app system as you do with a Porsche specific tool.

JFP - have you used an ICarScan?

I own both a Durametric and the ICarScan. As far as capabilities - they seem quite equal, but the ICarScan is easier to use for things like resetting different service intervals.

ICarScan didn't come out of nothing - it's a product of "Launch" technologies - who is one of the largest diagnostics test manufacturers in the world.  It had no problem accessing ALL the modules on my 2011 Turbo, and reading out information such as the battery specification settings stored in the Gateway.  And it's not a "universal phone app" - it has software written specifically for each manufacturer that has to be downloaded, and my experience with the Porsche and BMW versions of the sotware is that it is quite complete. 

Not to mention the ease of taking it along in the car - just toss the OBD-II/Bluetooth dongle in the glovebox and bring your phone - you're set to go.  And the price - roughly 1/2 Durametric (and no VIN# limit.)

I had a few minutes and went looking on ICarScan (significant # circled):

The info was found under the 4-wheel-drive section. I forget what subsystem I picked, but whatever it was it seemed pretty obvious.  Actually - looking at the PWIS menu directions, the path to enlightenment is almost identical. You need to go to 4-wheel-drive, data stream, T_wear integrators, then select ALL, confirm and read the values.

Folks,

I had hoped the Durametric enthusiast version had the ability to do "battery registration" on newer Porsches that support registration. Since I couldn't find it in the menus - I emailed them and asked. The response was sorta "we'll think about it.."

If you think this would be a useful function - please contact Durametric support and ask for it. Squeeky wheel and all that.

Make certain you're turning the tool in the right direction. One side is clockwise, the other side anti-clockwise.

You might pick up some "DeOxIt" before taking it out. Most intermittent faults with the 955 series are actually in the connector. Cleaning them is step#1.

I want to buy a used set of Cayenne 2011-2013 18" rims with winter tires for my 05 Cayenne Turbo to go skiing. Is this going fit or cause any problems?

 

Too bad you're not closer to me.. I have a nice set of '06 Sport-Design 19" rims with Pirelli Scorpion snows that I'd like to sell.. they would go right on your Cayenne, and look better then the one above to boot..

BTW - I don't believe 18" will clear the Turbo brakes. 19" will.

I'm not Loren, but after seeing your posting - I looked and felt around. There are two recesses which are likely for screws right under the center brake light..

Question - since the light is LED's - and they should last about forever - is there a reason you're removing it?

Never mind.. :)

Started poking around, and noticed I was getting a small dribble of washer juice from the nozzle buried in the wiper arm mount. Took off the cover and looked, nothing obviously wrong. Not immediately obvious how to remove the washer jet - so I stuck a small pocket knife under an edge and twisted. It popped off and went running away on the garage floor.

Turned on the ignition and tried the rear squirter. Water squirted out of the hole in the center of the bolt (that holds the arm on, and that the nozzle/jet pushes over.)  Tracked down the errant nozzle assembly and noticed it appeared to have rusty gunk in it.  Took some dental tools to it, and hot water and cleaned it up. Managed to get it so I could blow through the jets in reverse - and more gunk came out. Finally it started blowing clean.. so I put it back on and tried it. It now spritz's washer fluid in the general direction of the blade.

Will be heading to the dealer in the AM to see if they have the jet in stock. I've found it for purchase on-line from $8 to $18. Bet it's $24 at the dealer..

Will report back with results when I'm done. If I think of it I'll take a few pics of R&R.

Turns out that a car brought from Atlanta Georgia to the cold northeast mid winter is likely to freeze the windshield washer fluid. Apparently they just use the Porsche soap solution and water in Atlanta.

The front line thawed out and at least the windshield washer works fine (dunno on the headlight washers - yet) - but the rear window washer refuses to spray anything. I've been leaving the P!G in the semi-heated (above freezing) garage overnight, and after several nights it still hasn't thawed out.  Don't see any sign of leaking, but I could be missing that.

Does anyone the routing of the hose going to the rear window spray nozzle? I think I want to start tracking it from the spray pump back to the nozzle and see where the problem is.

TIA!

Anyone want to take a bet that checks are not in our mailboxes Monday?

It's not hurting anything. I'd simply ignore it.

Recently I've spotted a number of 2011 turbo's at what I consider a reasonable price (less then $45,000).. and with at least one of them the dealer selling it (not a Porsche franchise, but a place that only sells used Porsche) offered me around $13,000 trade-in on my 2006 (with 87,000 miles, and minty.)

My '06 went through most of the first-generation problems, and a few more. Luckily it had a Porsche CPO warranty when I bought it, and that covered some of the expensive stuff. I paid out of pocket for the coolant pipe replacement (done pro-actively before they failed and before I took it cross country and back) and I had the cardan shaft bearing mount fail - and put in a rebuilt. Other then that, and one rear brake caliper that hung up once (found a brand new one on Ebay for a silly cheap price, so that wasn't terribly painful), it's actually been pretty good.

So - aside from insanely more power and a much nicer interior - what's different between the Gen-1 and Gen-2 trucks? I'm guessing someone else has done the same thing - so any words of wisdom would be welcome. Any warnings on common failures (I looked - for some reason there isn't a listing of them like on the 955 Gen-1 series forums - maybe that's a GOOD thing?)?   Any first year gotcha's?

The ones I've spotted have around 64,000 miles on them, appear to be fully decked out with all the bells/whistles, clean carfaxes, and in one case, have a Porsche CPO warranty until 2017 and 100k miles.

I'm inclined to wait until after the holidays - just to avoid the hassle and because the wife's Lexus will be paid off then.. so it's my turn for new wheels.

So guys, what ended up happening? Did you get your Turbochargers rebuilt? Did you get them out with or without removing the engine? How $$$ did it set you back?

 

Cheers

Don't you hate it when people drop in, ask a question, get helpful answers and then disappear? I do. I try to remember who those people are so I never bother answering one of their drive-by queries.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that doing the front mounts requires removal of some large components (subframe? engine? whatsizt?)

I've been battling a flooded passenger footwell almost since I got the Cayenne. Sometimes it seemed I had some success, only to have it re-occur in about 6 months.

I think(!) I found the "root" cause of my wetness. In the past I've cleaned out the sunroof drains (air-pressure), the AC drain (piece of tubing on the end of the air-nozzle off my air-compressor), the sill covers (Titanium edition - Turbo sills) and the area where the windshield drains into the underhood area.

Found wetness yet AGAIN a few weeks ago. Took about 2 weeks to dry out all the foam rubber under the carpeting. While that was going on, I did my usual attack on the drains, and leaf munge buildup (my P!G lives outside - the garage is reserved for BMWs.)  STILL had dampness reappear after a rain.

Yesterday I started thinking I should go looking at the firewall under the cowl that is at the base of the windshield. That cowling isn't simple to remove - you have to remove the wiper arms before even thinking about removing it. Luckily - it's pretty flexible though, so I was able to bend it up enough to get underneath it without removing the wipers.

If you look at your P!G - there is a rubber funnel sort of thing on the bottom corners of the windshield that channels water from the side-channels on the windshield down past the hood hinge and into never-never land.

Unfortunately - it's equally as good at channeling leaves, dirt, munge of all kinds. This eventually builds up and plugs up the drain route to the ground. Once you have the cowling lifted up a bit - you will see a foam barrier between the hinge area and the rest of the under-cowl area (where the car's ECU's live). The foam barrier is supposed to channel the water down along the seam between the firewall and the inner fender. That works fine until it plugs up with munge.

Even then - it shouldn't make it into the passenger compartment if all is correct in the world.  In my case - it wasn't. Going deeper into the pits of the firewall area, I found there was a factory made hole right through the firewall into the fuse compartment area (the fuse compartment at the end of the dash.) Shining a bright flashlight into the hole from under the hood - lit up part of the fuse compartment.

In the past I've seen water running through the fuse compartment. Thought it was from a plugged sunroof drain (might have been actually..) The leaking usually stopped when I blew as much of the munge out of the drain channel around the hood-hinge as possible.

Here is a photo of why..

^^ The general area - the foam barrier is shown. The water from the windshield runs right down around the hinge-pivot that can be seen in this photo.

^^ And THAT is where the leak was. The black thing seen through the hole is the hose for the sunroof drain where it runs through the fuse-box area. Once the munge built up enough to block water draining along the firewall - it backed right up to this hole - where it happily leaked into the fuse compartment, ran down the drain hose into the side kickpanel, and then into the foam rubber under the carpeting.

As far as I could see - this hole (probably there to feed wires from the fuse box to something) never had a plug in it. It does now.  Only took about 5 years to track this down.  To really see this you have to pry up the cowling (two 1/4 turn fasteners in the area) plastic, then move the foam barrier out of the way, and use a nice bright flashlight.

If you have a leak on that side - worth checking. Takes about a 3/8" body plug.

Saw someone post on a forum - about a 2013 Cayenne - that had a leak in the same area. Dealer said the robot sealing the seams in the area apparently ran out of goop. Required massive disassembly to fix. In this case - I think the robot or worker who was supposed to install that body plug was asleep on the job.

EASY fix - once found.

Just to toss in some related experience. Friend owns a shop - does some Cayenne work for a few of us - he also happens to be an electrical-engineer and ham radio nut, so he's well known in the area as the guy to see for weird electrical problems.

Had a Cayenne (think an '04) come in with the eternal-running-fan problem (main engine fan as described above..) He tracked out the input trigger signal to the control box (which is mounted to the motor assembly) and disconnected the signals - the fan kept on running.

The problem was the fan controller - which is not a seperately available part - so the owner of the P!G was out the cost of an entire new fan assembly.  New fan assembly worked flawlessly.

 

replacing battery is the only thing i have done.. Not sure what other items would cause a weak startup other than battery or alternator not charging battery. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

 

At a minimum, you should be testing the alternators' output voltage at idle; it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.  A more ideal test would be to load test the unit to see how it responds to the electrical system demands, but that requires a special tool to accomplish.  You could also have primary cable problems, which can easily cause this type of issue, and also requires testing to evaluate.

 

Actually - with the dash mounted voltmeter - it's pretty easy to see if it's the alternator or not. 

Check idle voltage - needle should be right around 14V (plus/minus a bit), rev the engine, it should increase perhaps 0.5V. Turn on heavy loads - parking lights, inner high beams (if you have HIDs), rear defroster. At idle the voltage should still exceed 13.5V, at 2,000 RPM I'd expect to see closer to 14V with that load.

For those wondering what the "fix" is - it's a new latch assembly. A small plastic part. PN 955-553-901-00 -  around $10.  Haven't received it yet, ordered from my friendly local Porsche dealer. Looks like standing on my head in the rear compartment should help with the installation.  Mebbe I'll take a pic or two when I replace it.

Just thought I'd update this in case someone else has the same problem.

I know it was posted here once upon a time, but a search fails to turn it up.

The little door on the REAR of the center console (facing the rear seats) that hides the electrical/lighter outlet no longer stays closed. I know it was some dork (tech-term) that I must have had in the truck who broke it, since the cupholder above it was in the out position in an attempt to hide it.

Someone had a clever fix. If anyone can point me to it - it would be much appreciated.

If I had to guess - at 1.52 it appears we're looking at one of the plastic pipes going into the retainer at the rear of the engine. But that's just a guess..

I assume by "additional high beams" you mean the halogen flash-to-pass beams?  With bi-xenon lights they aren't supposed to come on. They are used for flashing when the HID's aren't on, and DLR's - and not much else.

If you don't mine posting the part number for the Clip nuts I may just order a set to be ready when I pull mine next time. Thanks,

Part # "Clip Nut" 955 631 471 02

Just an update - I managed to get the recalcitrant light out.. used the biggest pry bar in my kit of trim removal tools and just kept prying it. It helped that I found a good video on the web that shows the ball mounting point isn't centered vertically - it's about 2" from the bottom of the light.

Found the plastic "Clips Nut" (from PET) was cracked and that caused it to not release. Also found that out of 4 of the retaining nuts for the actual bulb assembly - 3 of them are rusted solid. A tiny bit of grease on assembly would have avoided that.  The clip nut failure must not be uncommon - there is an updated part, plus a repair kit available for it.

Will be watching for a good deal on replacement lights. And ordering a new "clip nut" - prices range from $0.86 - $2.00 and change depending on where you look for it. Will likely just order from my friendly local dealer since shipping is way more then the cost of the part when I use any on-line source. I think I'll get several.  Dunno that smoked would look that good on my **** edition (the light silver-blue color one..) but LED's would be a nice upgrade and I'd never have to remove them again.

Grrrr..

I decided to do some spring cleaning, which involves things like removing the taillights to clean behind them (don't laugh - crap accumulates there..) and see if I could see where moisture got into the light.

Right side came out easily. Removed the two allens, pulled on the outer edge toward the rear of the truck while pulling the inner edge and it popped right out of the ball/socket thingie.  Disassembly - to let any moisture out was more of a challenge, one of the thumbnuts (a nut embedded in a plastic handle sort of thing) that hold the bulb assembly had rusted to the threaded stud that it goes onto, and the only way to remove it was to remove the threaded stud from the housing. No optimal - but doable.

Left side - over an hour later - is not coming out. If a bulb burns out on that side I have a choice of two things:

1. Trade the **** thing in

2. Take a sawzall and/or a chisel to the light and figure on replacing it after I break it up into itty-bitty pieces.

I tried the super-duper body trim removal tools. I could get behind the forward outside edge, should have applied pressure on the ball to pop it out of the socket. No dice. Tried bigger tools. No dice.  Tried a piece of banding, sliding it behind the light with the ends sticking out at the top and bottom so I could pull straight back on the light. No dice.

It's in there.

Anyone had this and have an answer?  It might just mean I have to buy LED replacements.. (trying to think of a silver lining..)

BTW - the moisture - trapped between two layers of plastic. There is an outer shell with a molded in inner ribbed shell (that gives the ribbed effect to the light), and they don't come apart, and I see no way to blow out the moisture in between them. I just hope the summer gets hot enough to evaporate out the moisture.

So I've bought a new amp and it was the issue. The subwoofer is working just fine again. However I found it difficult to get hold of an amp from a Porsche Caynne, so after some research I found out, that the Audi A8 models with Bose, use the same amp for the subwoofer. So I ended up buying a whole subwoofer unit for an Audi, to only use the amp from it. SO much cheaper though! And exactly the same amp. Win!

Once again, thanks for the troubleshoot!

Jeppe.

Great info on the alternate source for the amp..

IIRC - this is a rather common failure - of the woofer amp. Usually after it gets wet from a flooded tire-well. Fix is a new amp.