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matspart3

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  1. Aaaarrrrrgghhh! More haste, less speed...Right side snagged and broke the ball cup.
  2. Ok....making progress again! Removed the 19mm bolt and discovered that all 3 nuts securing the transmission to the sidewall were loose (i.e. removable by hand) allowing the transmission to 'float' during operation, even to the point of snagging on the clamshell guide rail. This, I suspect, is causing the lag on the left hand side, as the gear itself was intact, not worn and very well greased. Now to refit, retighten and replace the ball cup...
  3. Oh dear, this isn't getting any easier! I thought I'd re-synched the V-levers by measuring the clamshell above the boot lid and was about to work on the shut off problem. I brought the hood forward on the dashboard switch and the left hand side (UK passenger's side)seemed to be lagging behind the right. I tried this a few times, re-synching as accurately as I could, but each time the left side was a problem, occasionally popping the clam shell ball joint from it's runner. Unfortunately, as I tried to push back with the dash switch, the front left push rod shattered my (new) ball cap again. Now the clamshell won't sit evenly with the rear push rods disconnected and needed some gentle 'encouragement' on the right side to sit in the closed postition - I hope I haven't twisted it, or the brackets. There is definitely some play on the left hand V-lever mount - I'm thinking now that the gear is partly stripped or worn? Gently pulling the semi-circular plastic shroud from below the centre nut allows around 3-5mm of play on the left, but the right side is completely solid. With all push rods disconnected, the hood moves freely and I don't suspect that to be the root cause of the problem.
  4. Frustrating day...the bolt and fat washer had 'drained' through and were under the car. I reconnected everything, synchronised the V-levers (or so I thought!) and hit the switch. The hood retracted and closed OK a couple of times but when I bought it fully forward, the gears overran again and I'm right back to square one! The clamshell is very slightly raised on the passenger side till, so I assume I wasn't fully synchronised. The idiot light has stayed on too. The rubber bushes on the front push rods are badly perished, so I'm going to order some new ones to see if that helps. Not sure whether it's significant, or not, but there does appear to be a couple of millimetres play on the left hand V-lever. Any ideas as to why I'm still over rotating? With the push rods disconnected, everything is very smooth. Anyone know the part numbers for the bushes?
  5. Thanks Maurice! They made an unusual noise as they disappeared out of site as though they were draining through something! I shall fish around tomorrow!
  6. Ok...progress! Ball caps arrived from Belgium within 3 days - thanks Martijn! Everything opened up, loosely synchronised and ball caps replaced, carefully marking up the push rod lengths,lubricated everything. Right push rod refitted - although I found it really tricky to get the cups back onto the ball! Is there an easy way? I went to refit the left push rod and dropped the 10mm bolt and fat washer - you've guessed it, down the drain hole in the tray! Aaaaagggghh! It's getting dark and cold now, so I've curtailed my repairs until the morning. Do I have any chance of recovering the boltt and washer? Where will it end up?
  7. Maurice Thanks! I see from the other threads that you may have a contact to supply the ball cups. Would you be able to send me the details please? Thanks Darren (matspart3)
  8. Thanks Maurice Everything was going fine! I followed your (excellent) instructions to the letter, reconnected the cables with the clamshell in the 45 degree position then moved to the dashboard switch. The roof began to retract normally then, about 2 feet into the process, there was a loud crack from the passenger side and the hood fell forward. The clamshell was still up and, on the passenger side, I could see that the red plastic cup had broken in half. The V-levers are also in very different positions, as shown in the pictures. I've closed the clamshell by using the drill and cable method but, after I've found a new cap, what's next?!?
  9. Hi all I've managed to confuse the hell out of myself reading various threads on here, so I started a new one! My 1998 Boxster roof won't open and today is the first (and probably last - knowing the UK weather - blue sky day) When I unlatch the top with the handbrake on, the windows drop a few inches. When I press the dashboard button the lights dim, the motor clicks briefly and I can feel the cables tensing in their sheaths under the clamshell. That, however, is as far as it goes; there is no further movement. Keeping the button depressed makes the motor click at intermittent intervals and both windows drop fully. The idiot light stays on permanently. From reading previous threads, I guess the V-levers have over rotated but what is my next step? Thanks in anticipation Edited to say that whilst feeling around the sheaths, I found the part shown
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