Jager

I'm curious to know what you decided to do? If you buy new, keep in-mind one axle is shorter than the other. Ask me how I learned that lesson... LOL.

Or buy a space saver spare like I did. If you get the kit it comes with holder and case to keep the tire in-place (using the seat belt) in one of the back seats.

It should be in the frunk. There is a cubby on the driver's side, at the bottom of the frunk, that has a carpet covered door hiding it.

10 hours ago, Boxman90 said:

So sorry to bump this post, but did the water pump fix it? I figured the water pump spun faster than the crank pulley, so the periodicity of the grinding noise should be a lot faster at idle?

 

If anyone else can chime in, I have the exact same noise right now in my 996. It's driving me crazy, and I dare not drive the car almost.

A bad water pump can be very noisy. Remove the belt and turn the water pump by hand, it should be smooth and quiet. If not, it needs to be replaced. You can also run the motor while it is cold, for a short period of time, without the belt installed and listen for the noise (as suggested by Loren above).

Thank you for the follow-up, resolution, post.

Air Oil Separator (AOS) would be my first guess.

Hi Loren,

I got another Boxster, a 2001 S. Can  you provide me the radio code?

Becker CDR 220, Type 4462, Serial Number 15087566.

Thanks

Thanks for the info guys, I am still looking for my 997, have been offered a 2007 4S Targa, what are your opinions on 4s vs S model, not sure about Targa top

I like the idea of 4 wheel drive, but not sure what to do.

I am swinging between a lot of issues, Auto/Man and 4S or 2 wheel drive, also coupe/Convertable.

I cant make up my mind, I need help.

You need to test drive the 4S, they handle quite different than the 2S. When you put the 4S in Sport mode it is a completely different machine. The way it handles the corners will put a smile on your face.

Made the modification: A washer either side of the seat-belt guide anchor on the pillar (there were none there); a spring/guide to keep the slide pushed out when in the lowest position; and filing down the low end of the slide. Not a rattle from there since the fix. Took about 90mins, going slow and carefully...

I have the seat belt pillar rattle (driver's side) in my 2006 C4S and can't find any information other than this post. Does anyone have additional information on this issue? An assembly drawing might be helpful.

 Thanks

I've been chasing after some oil leaks in my 2000 Base Boxster with just under 101k on it.  In previous efforts, I had the RMS and the oil filler tube replaced.  That slowed things down, but it was still leaking.  I have also replaced two of the spark plug tubes and their associated O-Rings when I found oil in them during spark plug replacement.

Today, I had the following work done:

R&R Intake Manifold Plenum - this included replacing various O Rings, Clamps, RTV, etc. under the plenum.  I also had the following major parts replaced: 99617401571 - Crankcase Vent Valve, 99610327257 - Breather Hose, 99610716401 - Breather Hose.

The mechanic who did the work told me that there was oil deposited on the top of the engine and several O-rings and clamps were leaking.

I'll keep checking to see if this solved the problem.  

 

Have you changed the O-Rings on your Oil Cooler? Oil on top of the engine is an indication you might have a problem there.

Have you tried to locate it by opening the lid, stand behind the car, and have someone else press on the gas pedal (rev the motor)?

I just replaced the passenger side rock guard. There were no alignment instructions but I started from the wheel side (aligned with the fender seam) and layed it forward and downward. You will neeed a spray bottle with 1 part alcohol to 3 parts water. Clean the surface with the alcohol mixture then spray the surface, your fingers, then the sticky side of the new guard with the alcohol mixture. Use a small plastic squeegee to push the moisture and air out from under the rock guard as you apply it to the fender.

JFP, I got under the vehicle again and discovered the error of my way. Yes you are correct, there is another side hole and I had to remove another cover to properly access it. Thank you sir, you put on the correct path again.

What are the hazards of driving a transaxle that is over-filled?

I will have to get under there again to look for the second fill hole. But my transaxle looks different from your picture, mine looks like this one:

http://californiamotorsports.net/pages/porsche-997-turbo-transaxle-specifications

I just purchased a 2006 C4S, it has a manual 6-speed transmission. When cold sixth gear would grind a little but shifted fine after the motor warmed-up. I decided to do a transaxle oil change, to see if that would help reduce the 6th gear cold grind, and had purchased three quarts of fluid from Sun Coast Porsche based on the owners manual and what I read on this and other forums. I also had 1 1/2 quarts of the stuff on the shelf in my garage from previous tranxale changes on my Boxster.

When I drained the transaxle fluid on the C4S it looked like there was more than 3 quarts of fluid in the drain pan. I thought hmmm... Glad I have more on the shelf. I emptied three quart containers into the transaxle and it wanted more. So I pumped the half quart container I had on the shelf into the transaxle... It wanted more. I pumped the full, fourth quart, (over 4 quarts by now) of fluid into the transaxle and it still was not full. I put my pinky finger into the fill hole and could not feel any transaxle fluid. What the heck kind of transmission/transaxle do I have??.

Yes the car was level when I added the fluid, I use lift bars and all four jack stands were the same elevation setting.

The linkage on this transmission has quite a bit of counter ballance weights  on them, looks like I am slinging 5 lbs of weights under there.

I realize this is a 997.2 thread but was one of the only threads that was on the topic of transaxle fluid capacities.

 

 

 

Sounds like a bigger job than I expected. I am trying to grasp the value this modification would add. I am thinking that removing the seal might permit some level of inspection of the IMSB. Perhaps multiple oil analyses before and after seal removal could support the claim that the bearing gets better lubrication after seal removal... 

 

The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure.

 

How many IMS bearings, with the seal in-place, failures are you aware of (997's with large bearing)?

 

 

Only a couple, but both were definitely an IMS failure.

 

As you may or may not know, I now own a 997 4S along with the 986 Jӓgermobile (now over 280,000 miles on original motor). I will definitely pull the IMS seal on my first clutch job on the 997. Thanks for the data.

 

Sounds like a bigger job than I expected. I am trying to grasp the value this modification would add. I am thinking that removing the seal might permit some level of inspection of the IMSB. Perhaps multiple oil analyses before and after seal removal could support the claim that the bearing gets better lubrication after seal removal... 

 

The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure.

 

How many IMS bearings, with the seal in-place, failures are you aware of (997's with large bearing)?

2000 2.7L

 

 

I've been getting regular (about every 2 weeks or so) CEL for the SAI system P 0410 "signal implausible" as well as 1128 and 1130 which indicate the fuel trims are at full rich. The MAF is reading lowish, around 10-11 when it should be at 15. This leads me to believe that I am getting a vacuum leak somewhere in the SAI system.

Does that sound right and if there is a vavuum leak from the SAI, what are the usual suspects?

san rensho, remember this thread? http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/49666-p0410-secondary-air-injection-system-cylinders-1-%96-3-a.html

Check the air ports on the heads... You will have to drop the three-way catalytic converters to inspect the ports.

I make sure the bolts are clean and use Loctite (blue)

Just some info if you are looking at used parts… The passenger side axle is a different length than the driver’s side axle. Make sure you purchase the driver’s side axle.

I mean if the cylinders were not fitted properly or bled properly, could this cause other issues? 

Yes any one of these could be the issue, or one of the parts that was installed has failed. Are you sure the slave cylinder was replaced? It's a pita to get to and fit properly.

Hello all, I have a 2000 base Boxster with stick shift.  I took ownership about a month ago.  The car has 102000 miles on it.  Today when I was dropping my daughter off to school and was idling through the parking lot I noticed smoke coming out the engine vent.  It was erratic and came and went.  It smelled like oil.  I've noticed this smell other times especially when driving the car spiritedly but never seen it smoke like today.  I also had a O2 alarm about a week ago but was able to clear with my Durametric software. The previous owner said he replaced one of the O2 sensors recently as well.  I'm thinking AOS.  I have the engine compartment exposed and the AOS has oil all over the outside.  Are these difficult to replace and whats the going rate for one?   

 

Thanks,

Scott

What was the O2 sensor error code that you cleared? Also, what does the voltage on the O2 sensors look like at idle? I think you have a couple problems based on your description.

It would look like this if he had the bigger GT500:

I have driven both the Turbos and the Mustangs, there is no comparison. You should let your friend drive the Turbo, that will change his mind.

Another time I had the same alarms I found a broken vacuum line between the reservoir and the electric vacuum switching valve.

I know this is an old thread but thought somebody might get some use out of what I went through. I have been fighting CEL on my 2002 Boxster S now for close to a year. I started with the typical MAF or leak before the throttle body. It turned out to be some hoses unplugged and some going the wrong place. Now I have the P0410 and P1411 codes coming up. I found a good deal on used Vacuum Reservoir, AI pump valve and Vacuum solenoid valve all together (with less miles than I have) and for the price thought I'd try them. I had the same reservations about how to get at them and after some looking at the mess found that I could get at them easily, without removing the passenger intake, by removing the alternator and going in through there. Made the job much easier. I think now I've still got either a vacuum problem or the AI pump valve is still bad, but for $15 it was worth the try. Now I'll just bite the bullet and buy a new one. My pump still seems to be working since on cold start I can hear the annoying but sweet shrill sound from the pump

For your P0410 and P1411 error codes you might consider dropping your Headers/Catalytic Converters and inspecting the air injection ports. See my experience in the following thread on 986forum:

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/49666-p0410-secondary-air-injection-system-cylinders-1-%96-3-a.html

It would help if you had a Durametric system to help troubleshoot the problem.