Jager

Glad you found the problem... Was it the hose connection identified in the attached photo?

Try moving the oil fill tube (shown in picture #6 of your last post) while the motor is running... Can you hear a change in motor RPMs or vacuum leak?

Wow, 264 k miles, thats amazing, original block etc?

Yep, no major work on the motor other than replacing the water pump twice, IMS bearing twice, AOS four times, flywheel, clutch, motor mount and rear main seal. Motor going strong and no oil leaks! I change the oil every 4k to 5k miles and drive it pretty hard every day.

Boom thanks Jager!

 

 

What are your thoughts about the low temp thermostat (may as well replace it while there).

 

 

Some people say the low temp thermo is worse for the engine if you don't track it often...

I don't track my Boxster and I don't have the low temp thermostat... I have 264k miles on my Boxster. BTW I have changed the water pump twice, a 10mm deep well socket, 1/4" drive, will be your friend.

 

 

Replaced the oil cap and I got noticeable performance improvement.  The faults are still showing up after I scan for errors (P1128, P1130, P1126, P1133),

Do I need to clear the codes and let it run and see if they come back?

 

Also, I get some smoke when I start the car when the car is sitting for a couple of days...otherwise, none or very little. Can it still be the AOS?

 

T

Yes you will have to clear the codes, they will not clear automatically. If the codes come back AOS is suspect. When you remove the oil fill cap (warm engine) does the oil fill tube sound like a shop vac? Did the RPMs drop (look a tach)?

 

With engine idle and oil cap on, idle revs from 690 to 730 or so.  With oil cap removed while engine idles, revs fluctuate from 640 to 800 or so.

 

AOS is probably OK... Clear the codes and see if they come back.

Replaced the oil cap and I got noticeable performance improvement.  The faults are still showing up after I scan for errors (P1128, P1130, P1126, P1133),

Do I need to clear the codes and let it run and see if they come back?

 

Also, I get some smoke when I start the car when the car is sitting for a couple of days...otherwise, none or very little. Can it still be the AOS?

 

T

Yes you will have to clear the codes, they will not clear automatically. If the codes come back AOS is suspect. When you remove the oil fill cap (warm engine) does the oil fill tube sound like a shop vac? Did the RPMs drop (look a tach)?

There are a couple of Evaporative Control System valves for controlling vacuum and shutoff... Could it be the valves you are hearing? I hear mine operate all the time when sitting at a traffic light.

Been there... Done that... Heard that sound before... Water pump is bad.

I recommend installing the clutch slave cylinder before mating the transaxle to the motor completely. Give yourself a little gap between the transaxle and the motor and install the slave cylinder, then tighten the tansaxle/motor bolts. Otherwise you will be fighting the pushrod of the slave cylinder while trying to insert the slave cylinder mounting bolt.

My black handle tool from LN is 10.5 cm long overall.  Just the metal pin part is 70mm long. 

 

Notice that the red handle tool has been extended by unscrewing the metal rod from the plastic handle.  It normally should be screwed in all the way.

 

I cut mine down and chamfered the raw end nicely.  Now it fits in and there's still about 4mm clearance between the crank pulley and the plastic handle when the tool is fully seated.

 

EDIT  Now that I've been there, I wonder if Boxster owners just unscrewed the pin from the plastic handle, inserted the pin by itself, then put on the handle when the pin was fully seated.

The picture of the red handle locking tool is the one I took when I did my IMS bearing replacement. Yes I did remove the red handle by unscrewing it so I could get the locking pin in-place. I put the handle back on the end just for the picture so you could easily see the tool.

 

 

I have a 2000 Boxster with fault codes P1128 and P1130.  I know these have been covered extensively in this forum and cleaned the MAF only for the codes to come back.  I am looking for a fellow Renntechian that lives around Chicago to help diagnose the actual issue.  I will buy lunch and a few beers.

T

AOS is suspect... What happens when you remove the oil fill cap while the motor is running (warmed-up at idle)?

 

Removed the oil cap at idle and running temperature.  Some rough idle but not to the point where the car would stall.

 

Look at the RPMs after you remove the oil fill cap, did the RPMs drop or increase? If the RPMs drop, the motor stuggles to idle, and the oil fill tube sounds like a Shop Vac, then the AOS needs to be replaced. If the RPMs actually increase a little then your AOS is probably OK.

Can you provide more details on question #1? What do you mean by erratic?

I'm in the process of pulling my tranny for changing the IMSB/RMS.  One of the bolts attaching the tranny to the engine is missing (2000 base 986 5MT).  It's the one labeled "G" on the Pelican photo.  Is this supposed to be missing from the factory?  There was (just one) comment on another forum that the 986 is supposed to be missing this bolt. 

 

Be careful on the length of the bolt... If it's too long it will puncture through the crankcase and bad things happen. I believe this is why it is missing in many vehicles.

I have a 2000 Boxster with fault codes P1128 and P1130.  I know these have been covered extensively in this forum and cleaned the MAF only for the codes to come back.  I am looking for a fellow Renntechian that lives around Chicago to help diagnose the actual issue.  I will buy lunch and a few beers.

T

AOS is suspect... What happens when you remove the oil fill cap while the motor is running (warmed-up at idle)?

Loren,

CDR 210 - W5024888

Thanks

Jager

Loren,

Hard to read a couple digits on this one (see attached photo). A friends 97 Boxster, we had to remove the alternator and disconnected the battery... Help!

Thanks

Jager

Did you read the procedure to have it display on the radio in the Lost Radio Code FAQ?

He had the procedure for the 220 and it made no sense for the 210. We continued the work and disconnected the power knowing we could get to the decal on the side of the radio but as you can see a couple digits are hard to read.

If you click on the photo it increases size making it easier to view.

I am guessing the number is W5024388 or W5024888.

From the Lost Radio Code FAQ...

"CR-210:

Press tone, then 8 and 0 simultaneously. "Becker" appears. Press station up arrow on right. "PR-VERS" appears. Press one of numbered buttons below display, directly below the LCD arrowheads (try a few). The model number will appear. Press station up arrow on right. "SERIAL N" will appear. Press the numbered button again. The serial number will appear.

Or, if the radio is out of the car the then the serial number is on the label."

So this works after the power was disconnected... Hmm... So we got W5024888.

Loren,

Hard to read a couple digits on this one (see attached photo). A friends 97 Boxster, we had to remove the alternator and disconnected the battery... Help!

Thanks

Jager

Did you read the procedure to have it display on the radio in the Lost Radio Code FAQ?

He had the procedure for the 220 and it made no sense for the 210. We continued the work and disconnected the power knowing we could get to the decal on the side of the radio but as you can see a couple digits are hard to read.

If you click on the photo it increases size making it easier to view.

I am guessing the number is W5024388 or W5024888.

Loren,

Hard to read a couple digits on this one (see attached photo). A friends 97 Boxster, we had to remove the alternator and disconnected the battery... Help!

Thanks

Jager

Using your Durametric capture the voltage levels of your O2 sensors in front of the catalytic converters, during a cold start with the Secondary Air Pump running (you will have to be quick to start the motor and start the Durametric program), the voltage should be very low and flat-line. If the voltage is not flat line what kind of sine wave/pattern do you have (copy screen and post the graph so we can see)?

I am traveling, and did not take a picture at the time. Can do so after getting back, if you give me an email. There are many ways you can make this tool (a number of designs are evident in the ones sold on ebay). I had a worn out diamond saw blade disk that was the same diameter as the tank ring . I then cut 4 pieces of 1.5" angle steel 3/4 " wide. One side of each angle was slotted 3/4 inch deep about 0.150 wide (to engage the raised ribs on the retainer OD). The angles were then spot welded to the disk 90 degrees apart. If you don't weld, bolts could be substituted. In the center hole of the disk, an old 3/8" sq. drive socket was welded for wrenching. You could also just put a big bolt and nut in the center. What ever you make, it needs to be stiff. Otherwise it will pop off the relatively small drive lugs (which are very soft plastic).

BR

Bill, I sent you a Private Message

I would like to pass along a recent experience that may help explain a lot of erroneous fuel level indication issues. My 986 has always been in the South, and subject to long periods of storage. The fuel level indicator moved in large increments rather than gradual change with fuel consumption. When the sender was removed for check out, the float arm was found to stay in any position it was placed in (could not fall of its own weight). Closer examination of the steel rod that the arm is made of, revealed a uniform layer of tan colored oxidation over the entire length. The arm can be pulled by opening a couple of snaps, and sure enough, the oxide extended into the pivot bushing hole.

After scraping the oxide off with a pocket knife, and polishing the pivot area with crocus cloth, it was reassembled and found to pivot perfectly. Problem solved!

The 10% ethenol in our gas can hold up to 40% water (by volume ) in suspension and still burn! Just because you cannot see water in the fuel does not mean it is not there. (Do a wikipedia on ethenol for more info.......dry gas is just ethenol) The high relative humidity here in FL just adds to the problem,..... if you don't drive the car and get the fuel cycled thru..

The oxide is probably zinc oxide, coming from a protective coating put on the bare steel arm. It was tan instead of white because of the fuel dye used in motor fuel. The arm should be recoated to prevent rust accumulation in the future. I used a fuel proof epoxy. Nickel, copper, or chrome plating would be better, but perhaps anal on a used car.

Yet another reason why ethenol is better in your favorite beverage than in your mogas.

If you want to check out your float, read Wayne Dempsy's article on fuel pump replacement in the Pelican Parts web site.

His safety emphasis should be heeded in this potentially dangerous part of your car. The job is not very difficult, but I do take strong exception to one step he describes. He advocates removing the tank unit retaining collar with a big screwdriver and a hammer. This is for complete hacks (sorry Wayne, you must have missed that class at M.I.T.). You can do far more expensive financial damage with this method,.... than a trip to the dealership. Buy or make a tool. It took me an hour to make a nice one. This is the same unit in the 996,.... by the way.

Bill Ryan

Casper Labs

Hi Bill,

Do you have a photo of the tool you made?

2k model with same mileage and problems

I have the exact same 3000 rpm shudder. My first thought, oh no!! IMS. So I jump on renntech to research and it seems like quite a common occurrence. Never really found a promising fix. Some said the motor mount like you tried, which i am planning on replacing soon, so I am disappointed to hear that did not work, however, let me tell you. In the 12k I've had the car, this shudder has not changed one bit. This leads me to think it is not really a problem as much as a minor annoyance. If it were an engine bearing or something internal it most certainly would have gotten worse over that mileage. I own a tire/suspension business where we fix vibrating cars all day long (i know how to diagnose a vibration) and if you are having the same

Motor mount and/or flywheel can cause the vibration at 3000 RPMs. The flywheel is a dual-mass unit that starts to fail after time/mileage.

Yes, there are a few dealers that will read codes for free - usually because they expect your business.

The generic readers will not be as detailed and will not Porsche specific fault codes. If you plan on keeping the car you might consider Durametric $287 (for 3 car version).

You have an 11 year old car and the Durametric may save you many times it's cost.

I also have a 2001 Boxster and purchased the Durametric system about 3 years ago. Not only did it pay for itself in a very short period of time, it's enjoyable to use because you will learn many more things about your car. BTW I have over 232,000 mile on my Boxster, original motor, no major work other than upgrading the IMS bearing at 204,000 miles.

What does the seal on your gas cap look like?

Here is a picture of my cam deviation post IMS bearing upgrade. Prior to the bearing replacement I had .60 degrees difference deviation between bank 1 and bank 2. Another improvement was the idle, it became smoother and it increased ~150 RPM.