Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
gpc replied to gpc's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Last night had to get up at 03.00am due to alarm going off, (because of low battery voltage,) waking up the neighbours! Can anyone help me solve the problem of fault 33 and fault 59?
gpc posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I have been having problems with the battery going flat after my 2001 996 Carrera4 has been locked for 2/3 days. I have changed the ignition switch after reading various topics on this site but with no difference. Took car to Porsche who said it was "psgr door lock opener" so I changed the passenger (LHS) door lock but with no difference. They wanted stupid money to investigate it fully. I have now tested with Durametric and fault codes 33 and 59 come up. 33 No passenger compartment monitoring, interior monitoring sensor faulty, status: not present, number of times DTC present: 1. 59 Central locking limit position safe not reached, open circuit or short to ground, status: not present, number of times DTC present: 5. What does all this mean? Can I fix it myself?
Problem fixed!! The only aftermarket kit is the Tracker. I tried your (Steve) test and pulled out each fuse. The only fuse that made any difference was SI C3 that is for: CU CLS ALARM, POWER WINDOWS, SUN ROOF, CU POWER TOP, INSIDE LIGHT. What happened when the fuse was taken out was the alarm started and the horn started. Put fuse back and got alarm and horn silenced. Then I locked door with remote on key about a dozen times and it "clicked" each time. Then suddenly on 13th time or so it "clunked" instead of "clicking" if you see what I mean. Another dozen times it "clunked". It seems that door is now locking properly. Amp drain after about 40 minutes is now 0.08 amps. That was 3 days ago and battery has not gone down at all. So problem could have been a combination of the ignition switch and sticky lock. Anyway glad to have my car back. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
I have now fitted a new ignition switch but unfortunately the problems are the same. As soon as I connected the fully charged battery the windows went down themselves. With car locked but bonnet up draw is now 1.8 amps, more than before!!! It has now started raining and looks like it will rain for the next few days so have not done any further tests, that's Scotland for you. Once the weather improves I'll do some more tests. Any idea what further tests I can do? or do I have to take the car to a specialist to get a computer diagnosis check.
Thanks for your rapid responses. Following your ignition switch comment I have looked at internet and this is a common fault. So have ordered new switch. Will come back when fitted and report results. It is dry under passenger seat, I've had this problem before on previous 911s, so its one of the first places I look. The 0.2amps was with the bonnet open but the bonnet light is not working so was off. I will look at this again with the new switch. Good idea to get the battery load tested. New alternator has been working fine for 8 months so will check its set-up if new ignition switch does not fix it.
From 2008 to 2010 my 996/2001/C4 was laid up, battery disconnected with battery condition charger attached. I charged up the battery, connected it up ok and car started first time! Got MOT and insurance and all hunky dory. Two weeks later the alternator went suddenly. Got new alternator and new battery. Car has been running fine for 8 months until now. Last week when driving along the interior light came on, and both windows went down and doors unlocked. After about a minute back to normal. This happened about 6 times that day. Then at 2.00am alarm went off. I disconnected battery and charged up for 2 days. Connected up again. Next day windows going down on their own and alarm went off again and battery flat. Took battery to supplier who carried out a check and said battery ok just needs charged up. So charged it up again and then connected up. Noticed last night that interior lights were on even though all doors were shut properly and car locked. Very early this morning alarm went off again. The battery was so flat that turning ignition on before disconnecting battery did not silence alarm so had to connect up a second battery to disconnect main battery, if you see what I mean. Incidentally the windows lowered and back wing raised all on their own during this process. Now battery disconnected and on charge. What on earth do I do next. I don't want to waste money on a new battery and the problem reoccur. Or is it just that the low voltage is playing havoc with the control system and activating windows/door locks/back wing/interior lights which of course drains the battery making it worse. In which case a new battery will sort the problem. Please some advice needed. Notes: When fully charged battery voltage reads 12V, when engine started voltage is 14V or so. So alternator working. With doors shut, car locked but bonnet up drain on battery is 0.2amps. The second battery I mentioned is the old battery from 2010 which I kept in case I have to open the bonnet, so would not be any better fitting that.