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jaekormtb

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Everything posted by jaekormtb

  1. jaekormtb
    Got the bleed done. It was much easier than on the 986, and there was some air int the line. Unfortunately it did not solve the problem. While I had the car up on stands, I put her in gear with the clutch to the floor and the rear wheels were still getting power. Looks like it's clutch time. I did the clutch on the 986 and it was a pretty easy job. Any tips for doing the clutch on my C4?
  2. jaekormtb
    Drove home tonight, 1hrcommute. At a stoplight, clutch all the way to the floor, I can smell the clutch burning. It's tough to get it into first, then the other gears are also tougher than usual. Oh $hit.
  3. jaekormtb
    Thanks for the input...a flush was my first thought, too. Time to break out the Power Bleeder. I know where the bleed fitting is on a Boxster 6sp. Is it basically the same, just on the passengers side for the 996?
  4. jaekormtb
    Coming into a toll booth today, my clutch pedal suddenly got really difficult to depress. I pumped it a couple of times and I was able to get into first, and the feel improved, but it's not back to normal, and it seems that the pedal will not go all the way to the floor. With the car off, it feels normal. From a stop, getting into first takes more effort than before. What's the diagnosis??
  5. jaekormtb
    I'm using Castrol Edge 0w40
  6. jaekormtb
    Excellent - thanks, Loren.
  7. jaekormtb
    Do any of you regularly get moisture or water +oil milkiness in the oil filler tube? I got home from a three day road trip that out about 500 miles on my 99 C4, and when I checked the oil filler tube, there it was, white crud in the oil filler tube. This isn't the first time I've seen it, either. However, for the past two oil changes I have sent a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. Both times I got great reports. I've owned the car since May and have put 19,000 miles on, so it gets driven a lot. The coolant level has not changed in this time. I also own a Boxster, and there's never evidence of moisture in that filler tube. Thoughts?
  8. jaekormtb
    Btw, stainless steel brake lines really improved the feel of my brakes.
  9. jaekormtb
    I've used the textars, Mintex, and Hawk HP Plus. The Hawks are a great autocross pad, but I would not recommend them for anything else. I'm not a fan of the textars. The Mintex red box pads work great on the street.
  10. jaekormtb
    Has anyone taken apart a sport design wheel for painting/refinishing? I was looking for info on the process and the tool for the bolts.
  11. jaekormtb
    The car is a 1999 Carrera 4, 6SP. It came with a carbon fiber console, but the CF has yellowed badly and has several cracks. The interior is Metropol Blue, but some of the plastic bits such as the door sills, AC vents, and center dash surround are stone grey. I've found a stone grey console, but it does not include the ash tray. I'm thinking of ordering the Non-smoker tray from Suncoast, but it is only available in black. If I can find stone grey touch up spray, I'm in business.
  12. jaekormtb
    Does anyone know where I could get touch up stone grey interior paint?
  13. jaekormtb
    I've got a problem with the brights on my 1999 C4. The headlights are litronics. The low beams are fine, but when I hit the brights, the low beams turn off and all I get are the brights, and the pattern is terrible. On my 2000 Boxster ( also Litronics) when I hit the brights, the low beams stay on along with the brights and the lights look great. Any ideas? FWIW, the C4 was originally sold in Canada, so has a couple differences.
  14. jaekormtb
    Al, if you are looking to sell the cup holder, please contact me. FWIW, I'm in Charlottesville VA.
  15. jaekormtb
    The M96 has a little modding room, but not much. And, there is an "economy" of drivability. I'm pretty much all in on my 2000 Boxster S: headers, 100 cell cats, Borla muffler, 75mm 996 Throttlebody, plenum splitter thing (Pedro's Techno Torque), cleaned up intake tubing, cone air filter in a sealed box outside of the engine compartment, under drive pulley, Softronic reflash, LW flywheel, stage 3+ clutch. The car pulled 244 HP on a Dyno. That comes to around 280ish FWHP, so a gain of about 35HP. The car is also pretty light- down to 2700#. It will flat out stomp my stock 99 C4 and is an autocross winner, but it is downright annoying to drive around on a daily basis. The C4 is a pleasure to drive daily. I arrive at my destination with my hearing and kidneys intact and I don't have to be too careful about getting the rev's up to keep from stalling it. I had to give up a lot on the Boxster to get an edge... Thus the C4 purchase!
  16. jaekormtb
    I've had the TB off twice and cleaned it to Amelia Island Concours standards, but the problem persists. I'll add that the TB is a 75mm 996 TB, but it worked fine for 8K miles beforehand (BTW, the 996 TB with an open exhaust and Softronic reflash REALLY woke up the 3.2!!) Is there a throttle position sensor at the gas pedal? UGH.
  17. jaekormtb
    The e-gas throttle on my 2000 Box S seems to be "sticking" open a bit. Here's what's going on: hot or cold, when I get the rpm's above 4000 or so and let off the gas, the car doesn't quickly decelerate. It just kind of coasts along. This is new, as it used to decel very quickly. If I get the RPM's up to 6K or so (I only go over 4K when hot) and let off the gas, the car bucks along as if it doesn't want to decel. In either case, if I depress the clutch, either the rpms drop slowly or they hold. Tapping the gas pedal can get the rpm's to drop, but they don't "fall like a stone". Back in February I replaced the clutch with a SPEC stage 3 plus and added a LW flywheel and under drive pulley. The car saw probably 4000 miles and 2 autocrosses before the throttle problem started. It seems to be getting worse. I did remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning. Any thoughts???
  18. jaekormtb
    DC Automotive in North Carolina has a great reputation here on the East Coast. Plenty of good feedback from PCA mambers.
  19. jaekormtb
    I've got the fiberglass version from the same company. The first one that I had did exactly the same thing within two weeks of owning it. I returned it to the manufacturer and they sent me another, no hassles. He did tell me to be very careful when tightening the mounting screws. I've had my current spoiler for well over a year (20,000+miles, 12 autocrosses, no track time) and it seems fine.
  20. jaekormtb
    The car is a 1998 Boxster. "camshaft adjustment"... the car still runs well. Can it be that a sensor is bad? The CEL was not flashing. Is it safe to drive the car to the mechanic, or should it be towed? Thanks!
  21. jaekormtb
    Does anyone have experience with this fault code?
  22. jaekormtb
    Just to add one more tip, spray the plug with PB Blaster to help loosen it up. That stuff really works. I used it on my header bolts and they all came right out without snapping!
  23. jaekormtb
    The inside edge of my left front tire consistently wears faster than any where else on my tires. I've had the front end aligned more than once (and the car drives straight), but the pattern persists. I've swapped to different tire brands, and they all have worn the same. The car is a 2000 986S. It had 60,000 miles when I bought it, now I'm a 100,000. Any ideas??
  24. jaekormtb
    I'm thinking of updating the front end of my 2000 986S to the 03-04 GT3 RS look. Does anyone know if the fenders need to be changed, or if it is just lights and the bumper cover. I'm also wondering if the newer headlights will plug into the older sockets. Cheers
  25. jaekormtb
    I had a thunking sound, particularly shifting from 1st to 2nd. It turned out to be a bad front motor mount. I fixed the motor mount, and the thunk is completely gone, and 1-2 shifts improved.
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