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Great! Thanks! You just saved my day :renntech: Could Term 38 (A2) be a 12V also? (Ps: I need that switched 12 to operate the valve lifting electronics, but the Amp-rate maybe too low for that - so will add a relay and thread a thicker direct 12 there...)

Okay, just to be a little bit more specific: what is the A1 connector? It is called "term 15" and it connects to something named "SP044_SPKL15PAS"... :help:

Could not find the pinout for the ECU of my MY06 987. It supposed to be a Motronic ME 7.8, and had to add some external electronics to take care of the Variocam Plus (valve timing + lifting). (MY06 3.2 987 S engine has the "old" variocam, with no valve lifting adjustment. Since replaced the engine with MY06 997 3.6 I need to take care of lifting which was not possible using the original ECU alone). Any ideas where to find this? <_<

Okay, after doing some battery disconnections (due to some work around the ECU) would like to be sure about the exact procedure: 1. Re-connect the battery terminal(s) 2. Switch ignition on, and leave it so for at least a minute - without touching pedals, controls etc 3. Switch off ignition 4. Fire up the engine and let it idle until the idle settles (5 to 10 minutes), again, not touching pedals or controls (except clutch to crank) Am I right or missing something?

Thanks for your reply, Loren. Since the engine was blown on the dyno and replaced with a 3.6 my warranty is already gone, I guess :D

Just been wondering if there are any special notes regarding ECU removal and/or re-installation on the 987. I'm planning to send the ECU for some reprogramming but was not sure if it can be done without any hassle (I mean disconnect everything, remove ECU, then when it comes back just reconnect everything and it works fine) or it may activate the anti-theft electronics?! Should I disconnect the battery before ECU removal? Any help would be appreciated...

Ok, car is back from the dyno. Meanwhile had to make an engine replacement, covered by TTP's insurance (engine blown while on the dyno at TTP's workshop). It is smooth as silk, additional 70 BHP is definitely a good thing :D Will keep you informed with more details, pics, video etc. if anyone interested.

Just a very quick update here, mostly to sign that I've not disappeared :-) Car is back at TTP, one oil ring broken. Needs engine rework. Will be back by the end of next week, that time dynoed and fine-tuned. Will post dyno / videos then.

Just a little bit over 500km in the new engine. According to the break-in procedure (no more than 4000 RMP until the first 500km, no more than 5500RPM before 1500km) all I can say is it's brutal. The new exhaust definitely adds a feeling of "faster than really" but it has a lot more oomph than the stock S had. Rear tires start to screech when I give WOT at 2500 and PSM light keeps flashing... And the incredibly deep and threatening growl from the exhaust turns heads from half a mile away :jump: After the first 2500km the car will be back for a complete ECU reprogramming (piston-by-piston adjustment of ignition and injection map), now it runs with the "generic" good-for-all modified map. Will post dyno results then. As for the bad news: there were some minor assembly problems. A few drips of oil and coolant here, some loose bolts and connectors there. Nothing that I could not fix at home. (Consider me as a "rather experienced amateur" as I've built my own SC'ed Miata race car during last 2 years... :oops: ) Ferdinand is a very helpful guy, believe that these problems would never occur if he was in the shop during the last week when my car was finished. (He was on a business trip, and though he suggested me to wait for his return before collecting the car, I kept pressing schedule and took it before his final okay).

OK, car is just finished and will do its "maiden voyage" this weekend. 3.6l conversion, including new ECU, intake, exhaust - all done. It is scheduled for a re-visit to the shop to do a dyno run and fine-tune the ECU after 1500. Supposed to be around 350HP now... Until then, here is a picture taken in the "middle of the road" :D

Well, I think TTP is one of the top-notch Porsche tuners in Europe. Just take a look at their website (and magazine tests) - those fire-breathing biturbo conversions are awesome... Unfortunately, they don't have the turbo ready for the 987 yet. (And I prefer the smoother characteristics of the naturally aspirated engine.) I hope it's nothing wrong to discuss prices here, the engine replacement (3.8l 997S engine tuned up to cca 380HP) project is about 25k EUR+16% VAT, the "light" 3.6 conversion will be 14k EUR + 16% VAT. Both are turnkey packages, excluding transport to and from the shop.

This is what I got from Ferdinand, the mastermind behind TTP: "To make the 3,6l version we need 3 weeks. The conversion includes headers, cat, exhaust, ECU, airbox, intake system and all work inside the engine." "All work inside" probably means reworked heads, pistons, maybe cylinders, strokers, shaft... Will let you know :D

Just decided to take the plunge and let TTP upgrade my 987S engine. Their original concept was to swap it for a 997S (Carrera) engine with modified intake, headers, exhaust and ECU (claimed to deliver 380HP). After checking administrative obstacles (the car is in Hungary, Europe...) decided to go for a rebuild rather than a swap. (So I may keep the original engine number, whatever that means.) The result will (should) be a 3.6l 350HP beast, with custom headers, intake and ECU. Anyone interested in the progress?

OK, here are my "practical" notices: 1. To remove the silver vent frame (and not the black one it is fitted into) go ahead as you started. Make loose the top then the middle. The bottom is more tricky, I felt the same you did. Grab a flathead screwdriver that is wide enough to securely fit into the slot on the underside of the lowermost grille. Then carefully lift the handle, thus pulling the lower surface of the grille downward. Eventually it will pop free and yon can pull it out. See the pictures. 2. Once removed the silver frame remove the black one. Don't pull out the round plastic anchor buttons just lift the rectangular tabs on them a little bit with the screwdriver and the black frame pops free and slides out - after the first one you'll see what I mean. 3. When removing the restrictor plate do not try to bend the protruding plack plastic parts of the frame behind, they will break (rigid polypropilene). Instead you will find small notches on the restrictor plate's anchor tabs, slightly bend them out with a screwdriver to pop them free. They are more flexible. 4. The snorkel tube has two small bumps on the right-top and left-bottom side on the back that holds it in place. (These bumps pop into two small holes in the air intake frame). If you try to pull it free it may (mine did) break the plastic of the frame around the holes. Instead grab a long and wide flathead screwdriver and put it to the top of the snorkel tube's base. Then push it carefully down while pulling slightly the tube, so helping it to pop free. Repeat at the bottom once the top is free. Hope this helped...

I have tested both the "regular" and the S. The S gives you more bang for more buck, not only in terms of HP but in sound/vibration/feeling of power. I would go for the S...

Loren: Oooops... My bad: the dealer told me that there is no option to get a 17" for the S because of the larger brake calipers. I have tried to go for the 17" in hope of better handling the "roads" we have here (in Hungary)...

987 S comes factory-mounted with 18" (larger brakes won't fit in smaller wheel rims...)

Stay with the 18". Just my 2c's...

Just removed the side vent grille to see what's behind after 2 weeks daily running in _awful_ (rain, fog, mud, snow, whatever) weather. The result was surprising: although the side of the car (along with the plastic silver vent cover) was literally covered with dried mud, there was absolutely no trace of water or dirt inside. Maybe on the first quarter inch, but after that the intake was black and shiny like new. I would not be concerned too much about water (i.e. heavy rain or puddle splashes) getting in there... While removing the vent cover I "managed" to break one of the tiny plastic pushpins (the legs broke off). I drilled it through, fixed it in place with a self-tapping screw and washer from behind and cut off the protruding nose of the screw on the surface. It will never break or pop out again :)

Well, after being cramped in the Miata I feel _extremely_ comfortable in the 987 :D Just for the record: I have replaced the Miata steering wheel with a much smaller one (32cm) to make some legroom, removed some stuffing from the back of the driver seat, replaced shifter with a SolaLuna knob effectively reducing shifter arm length by 1.5" etc... Even then looked funny half-sitting / half-laying and my lower back really got upset with longer drives... In the 987, I opted for the smaller "sports steering wheel" option (which is still huge for my taste) and keep the seat in its lowermost position. I find it okay, however, a smaller wheel would still be nice :D My right knee bumbs occasionally to the center console but this is still a soccer field to seat in as compared to the Mazda :clapping: A quick notice here about winter performance: got some (2") snow here recently. I have the factory-fitted winter tires on the car, however, almost got stuck on my driveway. No matter how many electronics we have in the Box, it is still a rear-driven torquey sports car, hard to tame on slippery surface... Just put it back to th garage and jumped in the Touareg instead :jump:

Samir: Ooops, my bad again: I'm 6'5" (5'5" is marked in my VA driving licence and my friends laughed at it so much, it "stuck" in my mind :)

MikenOH: Thanks for your gratulations. My face has stuck in an ear-to-ear smile since got the Box :D OT: Miata vs Box As for the comparison, lets make one thing clear: the Box costs about 3x the money than the Miata did. (In Hungary it means 27kEUR for the Miata and 80kEUR for the Box). Now keep this in mind when reading further. My Miata was a heavily modified 2004 1.8 Sport model, 6-spd manual. I have upgraded it to 210RWHP (Eaton M62 blower in a BRP R3 supercharger kit with all the bells and whistles, modified fuel supply and FI, electronics, exhaust, cooling and suspension). I guess it was as close to a "racing" miata as it could be. Keep this in mind also... Ok, now for the details: 1. Ride comfort, noise and inner space: Box is the clear winner. The Miata had that classic whinning sound which would make it par with the deep groan of the Box but for the untrained ear the Box sounds more "menacing" and "serious". The riding comfort and internal quality is a lot better with the Box. I'm "tallish" (5'5") and always had some trouble to sit comfortably in the Miata. I have no problems with the Box. Soft top is also better insulated in the Box with larger rear window (and motorized also, while the top-boot for the Miata actually prevented opening/closing it more than once a day). Boot storage is more than adequate with the Box while small at best in the Miata. 2. Cornering speed, acceleration, "driving enjoyment": I give a slight edge to the Miata here. It definitely _felt_ faster and the lack of PSM made it a hair-raising experience to blast around the hill roads. Box is a lot more "consolidated" or "car-ish", while Miata was closer to a go-kart. Throttle response was sharper than the Box (I guess Box has an electronic throttle to be ok for EURO4 and CARB-whatever, making it feel a bit sluggish). Chassis rigidity feels the same - perfect for both. 3. Brakes, gearshift and other "technicals": Box wins again. Brakes are a lot better, the gear ratios better (more evenly distributed) and the gearshift feels a bit more "okay". Miata had a much shorter and more direct shifter but felt a little bit hard. With the Box shifts "just happen". Steering feels equal, both just fine. Conclusion: If you can afford, go for the Box :clapping: Ps: "You know that you are sitting in a prestige car when other drivers don't look through at the red lights". :thumbup:

I have removed the whole bunch (on day one) and got slightly better mpg than the "factory" value is. Maybe I should put back the snorkel to get even better mpg :-) As for the rainy thing, leaving the snorkel doesn't change it for better or worse. The restrictor plate will act as a collision surface where the air stream and water droplets get separated (larger water drops - not mist - will impact onto the restrictor plate as their momentum prevents them to follow the sudden directional change around the edge of the plate - and simply drip down at the lower edge). However, _some_ water will still make it to the chamber and the air filter element. I guess it won't make any serious harm unless you flood the whole thing with a garden hose at WOT. The filter element may partially get soaked but it will dry quickly in the hot engine bay. The burning cigar(ette) getting sucked in is another matter, the gutter mesh may save the day here.

Oooops... My wrong... PASM = PSM

Stuey, thanks for your reply! The head unit is the CDR-24 and the dealer informed me previously that this is known to support MP3 CDs. In fact it doesn't, and I had no luck with burned audio CD-s. Called the dealer and they promised me to confirm the situation with Porsche Germany. I have _completely_ de-snorkled the beast, nothing left inside just the side vent. From inside, it is not noticeably louder. From the outside, I cannot hear :-) After removing the snorkel I found that the design has changed somewhat, the whole intake canal is covered with a single cast rubber layer. I have purchased mine with factory-fitted winter tires, road holding is quite good despite foggy and wet road surfaces. However, after the Miata found somewhat surprising that the PASM effectively took over my car when tried some drifting on winding mountain roads. Will have to try switching off, wanna get back my goosebumps at corners. Just keep the shiny side up and door handles forward :-) I have asked the dealer twice about break-in. The answer was that "there is no break-in required, but it is advised to keep speed and rev below 2/3 of the max whenever possible for the first 1000-3000 km". Anyone, questions about a shiny new MY06 Box S?