DK570

On 5/25/2019 at 11:53 AM, Otter said:

Hi DK570, how many miles do they have on them?  

Sorry, totally missed this post.  I can look it up in my log book when I get home.  

It's buried pretty deep.  Lots of stuff to bolt/unbolt.  I'd say it's more time consuming than difficult.  I replaced mine when I replaced the vacuum lines since I had easy access at the time.  

I have a used set of Bridgestone Blizzaks for 18" wheels I'd like to get rid of.  Let me know if you want more details.  

I solved my codes by pretty much replacing all the SAI vacuum lines.  Take a look at the thread here: 

I think it should if I remember correctly.    

My key no longer operates the top.  Everything else on my key and top work, so I haven't even tried to troubleshoot it.  

12 hours ago, dedens said:

I am in the process of replacing my Air/Oil Separator and snapped/broke the hose/line that you have marked 428mm.  For the life of me I cannot find the part number.  Can you point me in the right direction?

I think it's 4320501

The angle looking at changeover valve #2 is just right so you can't really see one of the elbows.  Circled in Blue below:

It's a little confusing ordering the parts since the diagram that Porsche uses shows the old style shut off valve from 1999 which has a bit different plumbing. 

I replaced everything seen in your pic:

Except not the plenum or resonance flap actuator.  Also, the dealer only gave me 1m of line, not 2m, so the 122mm bit is still original, but that's the easiest one to replace later.  Also, I mis-counted the number of elbows needed, so the elbow to the one way check is original.  Again easy to replace later.  For anyone doing this in the future, you need 5 elbows, not 4.  While I was in there, I replaced the starter.  I also replaced a couple hose/line holders that I had broken previously when replacing the alternator last year (maybe 2 years ago). 

Good news, it's been 3 days since I replaced everything, and no CEL.  It seems to start quicker, and hold a more steady idle.  Even better, I passed emissions today!  Thanks for the help Ahsai!

After I took the starter out I was able to find enough room.  

 

 

In my recently bought 2004 C4S, I am getting a high pitched whining from the engine bay (when hot), that changes frequency with engine revs. Any ideas what this could be?

If it changes with revs, I doubt it's the SAI pump. 

 

However, while we are on the subject of SAI, I have codes p0491, and p0492 that reoccur.  These are secondary air injection bank 1 and bank 2.  I'm thinking about replacing every hose + the reservoir.  Looks like you can access all of that if you remove the intake plenums?  Any other ideas?  

 

It's strange in that I only get the codes when it's above freezing.  I've been able to clear the codes, and not have them come back until the temp reaches about 34º on a few different occasions, so I don't think it's a coincidence.   

 

 

 

You only need to remove the alternator and the rear (rear of the car) intake plenum.

 

Are you sure you only need to remove the alternator and rear plenum?  I've gotten that far, but aren't sure what to do now.  

Btw, do you use an Android or iphone? You can get a wireless OBDII adaptor that can read and plot the four O2 sensors when you are driving. I have a smartphone holder attached to my windshield for this purpose.

I have an iphone.  Maybe I'll look into the wireless adapter.  I think my next step is to replace some components, as I'm thinking I have a vacuum leak.  I've looked at your thread here:http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/849770-mkii-996-vacuum-line-routing-and-related-components.html which is quite helpful.  My check valve does of some oil mist on it, so maybe it's gone bad, but that could be a coincidence.  I'm having a bit of trouble finding some of the components in the Porsche catalog though.  I've found this diagram which shows some of it: http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/parts/2002/Porsche/911/Carrera%204/?siteid=215405&vehicleid=44889&section=EMISSION%20SYSTEM But I can't find a diagram that shows the parts closer to the throttle body. 

Yea, this one looks great. Seems to me the cold start is fine. Do you drive on highways a lot and the SAI pump will run after exiting the highway?

Yes, I notice it a lot on my way to work.  I'll drive 20mi on the highway, than more often than not I'll get a red light at the end of my exit ramp and I'll hear it come on.  Sometimes accompanied by a few seconds of a slightly lump idle.    Driving home I usually get a few blocks of 30-40 mph after the highway before I hit a red light.  I notice it less in this situation, compared to 20mi of 80mph immediately followed by a minute of 0 mph.   

I did another log tonight, and it looks more like how I would expect it to.  That first one may have been a fluke.  

When I clear the codes they usually come back in less than a week.  (if the ambient temperature is warm enough).  I've never not noticed the SAI pump running when cold.  I cleared the codes yesterday, and drive about 50mi every day.   We'll see how long until they come back & I'll try to pay attention to if the pump is running or not when cold.   

Copy of 2015_05_26_21_17_28.pdf

I really want to try and fix this problem now.  I started the car, and recorded until the RPM dropped & the SAI shut off.  I'm looking for opinions on what you see.  To me, the O2 voltage ahead of cat bank 1 looks funky.  Anyone agree or disagree?  What should my next action be?  Thanks!

Copy of 2015_05_25_12_00_21.pdf

Just having the p0491 and p0492 codes does not make it run rough.  It's only noticeable when at a stop light immediately after getting off the highway.  The vacuum lines are connected to the manifold, which I think cause the slightly off idle after running at ~ 3000 rpm on the highway for a time period.   

In my recently bought 2004 C4S, I am getting a high pitched whining from the engine bay (when hot), that changes frequency with engine revs. Any ideas what this could be?

If it changes with revs, I doubt it's the SAI pump. 

However, while we are on the subject of SAI, I have codes p0491, and p0492 that reoccur.  These are secondary air injection bank 1 and bank 2.  I'm thinking about replacing every hose + the reservoir.  Looks like you can access all of that if you remove the intake plenums?  Any other ideas?  

It's strange in that I only get the codes when it's above freezing.  I've been able to clear the codes, and not have them come back until the temp reaches about 34º on a few different occasions, so I don't think it's a coincidence.   

I would double check all the fuel lines that were disconnected during installation and make sure that they are on all the way. When they are, you will hear a click. If one is slightly open and either leaking fuel or letting air in, this could be an issue.

This was the case.  It's strange that on 3 of the lines, you simply push on to connect.  For the 4th one, however, there are tabs that need to be pushed in after the hose is lid on to keep it sung. 

I thought that might be the case, but I've been driving for a week+ and it still happens.  Also, it seems the longer the car sits, the harder it is to start.    

I swapped the units, was pretty simple.  Fuel level gauge seems to work.  Problem is since I did the swap it's very slow to start.  Anyone have any ideas why?  Thanks.    

Put it backwards through the original hole.  See this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/4669-how-to-remove-fuel-filler-door/

 

If you get a new alternator, make sure it has a clutch on the pulley so it can overrun.  The cheaper ones are fixed.  The clutch prevents unnecessary surges / wear that can occur with sudden engine RPM changes.  

 

Ok Thanks , I was wondering about that, as if I do in fact need a new alternator,  the dealer wants silly money/buko bucks $$$, a German parts place here in Daytona wants about $350 or 360, for a rebuilt Bosch,  but Autozone, NAPA, Pep Boys, and O'Reilys have them for about $155 to $180 or so with a lifetime guarantee, sounds good , why pay more, but I'll have to check on that "clutch "  you mentioned. Not sure if they have that, would that make a serious issue if it didn't have one ? 

 

I don't know what problems you could have w/o the clutch, but I prefer driving my car to working on it, so I try and fix everything right the first time.  The only ones I could find with the correct pulley were OEM / Bosch. 

If you get a new alternator, make sure it has a clutch on the pulley so it can overrun.  The cheaper ones are fixed.  The clutch prevents unnecessary surges / wear that can occur with sudden engine RPM changes.  

Water can be very damaging if it goes anywhere it's not supposed to.  This would be anywhere that is 'sealed' and lubricated.  Places like CV joints and transaxles.  I'm not sure where the breather line is for the the transmission, but it is probably not very high.  Also, if you stall and water is above your tailpies, don't try and restart.  Your pipes will fill with water once the stream of outgoing exhaust gas stops.    

Good to know. I have a Durametric, so I'll have to look into how to calibrate.