brendel

Hi there my C4S from 2006 is running very well at 80 KMiles Last month I did my oil change and checked the filter, it was really clean of metal particles The oil consumption is amazingly low, I did a quart for 6000 miles I would suspect that there is something putting stress on the IMS bearing rather than a self destruction, we heard a lot about grease starvation from several sources, why Porsche would then be keeping the same design for over 10 years, it would have been easily fixed without a dry bearing, could the timing chain and tensioners be the cause when they age I am looking often at Mobile.de a german second hand car website for high mileage car, some do have new engine, but the cause is not explained the 3.8 engine seem to suffer from piston seize also anyway, I documented myself too much about it and my solution to sleep at night was to take the Porsche guarantee as long as possible

Hello everyone, Slowly solving my front suspension rattles on my 2006 C4S ( 80 KMiles), I now start to have very heavy noises from the back when hitting bad road It happens all the time when I brake on a manhole that wouldn't be at the same level as the road, or accelerate on a bad road The noise is more like Bang than clunk... I am thinking of the trailing arm I took some pictures of the bushings of the rear suspension, they look cracked to me The rear suspension can cost me a fortune to renovate, and I want to proceed piece by piece Any idea? Thanks Michel

I ordered 2 trailing arms for the front, I guess wheel realignment is needed? can the bolts be used a second time? I also had some heavy noise when hitting a pot hole from the rear, see what I found, the bushings seem to be broken, there are all like that, even the bushing of the shock absorber, I guess there must be one elements being more faulty than the others, by where would you start? It seems that control arms last about 80K miles on a 911, though I don't see much documentation on that on the net, there is always one person changing a part after hearing a clunking noise ( like me), there must be a logic order on what is getting worn first, anyone would have that ? Thanks again for all your advice

I have done mine this week end 3.8 S engine, I waited more than half an hour with cold 5W50 oil to drain, put 8.5 L ( I did change the filter) and get an overfill after the some drives (first times was ok) In the end who cares, this is a semi dry sump engine , there are no rotating parts in contact with the oil, I assume a slight overfill should have no effect Then again how accurate is the electronic oil level vs dipstick, who says there is an overfill... Cheers Michel

Thanks Loren I cannot find the "...143..." in the porsche parts catalogue either, I suspect it to be first part number in 2006 then replaced by the ...043... later on I will make a replacement of the track arms on both sides and photo document it on the site Thanks

The trailing arm part number on the catalogue is 997 341 043 00 the part on my car is 997 34 143 00 Would anyone know if I can use the 043 vs the 143 on my C4S from 2006? How do you find out that a trailing arm is to be changed Thanks

Thanks Rich, I looked yesterday at the control arm, they look good, I tried to quick the wheel while while turning completely and there is a "clonk" indeed, since it is the only part that I am not sure if it was changed or not... I also found a big connector in the right wheel arch hanging loose close to a metal piece ( the one holding the light), I will test the car today... The trailing arm part number on the catalogue is 997 341 043 00 the part on my car is 997 34 143 00, I was wondering if I had the older number or a new part number in which case porsche would have replaced one by the other, does someone knows that? it seems to be the same part for CAymans boxters and 997s, I have seen the 997 341 043 00 mounted on 2010 cayman ( ebay ) so I might have an older number Thanks

What is a steering universal? What do you mean with loose ABS? the whole control box ? Driving with music I cannot feel anything strange in the steering, so it must be somewhere else The noise is more like the hockey puck in a bucket, "clonk" I would describe it as reactive rather than direct, which makes me think there is something loose out there, it really occurs if the road is bad in a turn or while braking ( on bad road) I have heard of the airco line in the right front wheel arch being loose from its clamp, I have checked that previously but since they messed around with my suspension at the garage, I would need to check this again All in all this seldom happens and I can only hear it at low speed, maybe I should avoid bad roads and low speed... I extended my guarantee last week and the porsche guys are fed up with this car, they do recognize there is a noise, but since they changed a lot of parts they don't know what to look for anymore

Here the extract of the document I referred too, the document is called "997 S technik " it is 7.5 mb so I cannot load it but it is very interesting info for 997 S or 4S owners The injection of secondary air leads to a reduction of the CO and HC pollutants that are increasingly created by operating with Lambda < 1 when running cold. Additionally, the catalytic converters achieve their activation temperature of approx. 350 °C more quickly due to the waste heat created during the afterburning. Activation conditions are achieved during the first cold start process if the coolant temperature is between -10 °C and +42 °C. When running close to idle speed, secondary air injection is active for approx. 60 seconds, for a partial load up to 80 seconds.

I was asking for help :huh:

A good battery has 12.7 V A weak battery start at 12.2V and below when disconnected I got stuck last week in an underground parking, I bought a new porsche battery, the Moll one, the newer version has a short circuit current 40 Amp higher ( not talking about the Capacity that remains at 80AH), I hear the starter engine being much faster than before The old Moll had a short circuit of 340 A ( german norm) the new one has 380 A

I have not seen you bought it already, congrats For the tires try the Pilot sport 2 or the Potenza both are far better than the Pzero

Hi Erik I have been driving the 2 and have to say the S has a stiffer ride, owning a porsche does not mean you have to sleep on the race track, it is done for every day, as a daily driver you might prefer the standard version rather than the S, if it is for the weekend fun the S is best I have a 4S myself as daily driver and use it all year round ( I live in Switzerland ) I do have a tiptronic, people who say it is not a nice gearbox just don't know how to use it, it is fast and effective if you understand the principle, if you commute with the car driving in traffic like I do, it is a better choice You have plenty of 911 choices, make sure you choose the one that will match your style, we all want the real 911, but that is a GT3... Good luck

I would consider the Porsche guaranty as part of the cost to run a 911, though they have recently put a lot more restriction on what is covered and not by the guarantee I had this year 1)my tiptronic gearbox changed 2) front suspensions and control arms 3) oil leaks fixed ( required engine removal) 4) main drive shaft replaced I hear that the post 2006 3.6 model do not suffer from the IMS bearing issue and do not have the piston seizing issue of the 3.8 so it would be the most reliable choice Take care that the car was produced in 2006 and not sold in 2006

Hi Everyone, My C4S 2006 80KMiles, was making bad noises from the front suspension, squeaking + rattling My car being under guaranty, I went to my porsche center to ask to fix it ( it all happened over a year time) First visit changed the droplinks, + Sway bar bushing+ tower bearings No effect SEcond visit, they changed the suspension + springs + control arm ( coffin one), squeaking is gone and rattling only partially, I still have an annoying rattling at low speed Third visit, they changed the suspension again (and screw up my wheel geometry) but the rattling is still there I noticed that the rattling is more pronounced when I go over a bad road and turn, going straight seems fine, I can also feel it in the steering wheel which makes me even more mad about it To summarize, the only parts that are not new are: Tie rods ( but I have no play in the steering), diagonal control arm Which of the 2 is more like to be the trouble maker? I have spent evenings on the forums but cannot find a good technical answer on this Thanks

Same on my 2006 C4S with 80KMiles, I asked the question at my Porsche center, thinking I had a loose part in the exhaust or cat cells, they told me that the noise comes from the secondary air injection, not the pump but the effect of excess air, after some investigation (I think I have see it on the workshop manual) I found that it turns on on cold start between 30 sec to 2 min depending on the temperature it fits exactly what I state on my car, above an engine temp of 40°C the secondary air injection does not turn on, which match well the noise on cold start only If you look up "997 cold start" you will hear this sound on all the cars I found it horrible at the beginning and start to like it, thinking this is "the 997 gen1 start up noise" By the way if you have the PSE like me, plug off the orange connection on the top right of the engine, you car will make a killing sound, my neighbors and wife already complained but it is fantastic especially above 3000Rpm when the PSE flaps start to shut down to comply with noise regulations Enjoy

Pete, did you see the small paragraph called Navigation update at the bottom of the page saying System and Map update, it does not say what it is though, there is a part number...let me know what you find Michel

Hi everyone, I am approaching 80 Kmiles with my 2006 tip C4S and add enough of the high frequency noise that the car was making on the motorway at roughly 70 M/h, thanks to a Porsche official repair notice I found on the web, I learned they would replace the gearbox without creating issues if the car would have a warranty so I tried and I have a new gear box now, though the garage first tried to change the oil, sent oil samples to porsche and had to record a sound file of it... another issue that I thought was related to the differential is not change though, when I travel at low speed (city) and I give gas and decelerate, I hear a "clunck" from the back, not loud, but all the time, the garage told me this is differential play and that 1 car out of 3 has that, but my differential is now new with the gearbox and I find hard to believe that this is normal, I was thinking of the rear Cardan shaft ( my central cardan has been replaced less than a year ago), but the garage say it is not possible, would you have any idea about it ? another garage said it could be engine mounts, but it would make the noise when I rev the engine on neutral Warranty is really worth it, I realize that at 80Kmiles there are a lot of parts that get worn out on a sports car that would not normally wear, I hear this is normal on a 911, here is a list of what was done on my car this year _IMS sealing ring (complete engine removal), I had a leak and negotiated this at purchase _Front suspension (entire suspension with bearing...) I had a very bad "spooky house door" noise when I would turn the steering wheel _Sway bar bushings and tie rods _front coffin arms _Central cardan shaft ( when they removed the engine the first time, they noticed the rubber part was porous and since porsche does not sell it separately they changed the whole shaft) _new tiptronic ( again engine and tans removal) My warranty is getting to an end, and I am going to take it again, though I think, there is not much that can go wrong now (the engine if I am lucky) And despite all that and considering selling the car several times, I figured out that "there is no substitute " in the market, I guess one must deserve its cheaper 2nd hand 911, this might be part of the 911 learning curve, and changing for what, a M3 or M6, RS4, not the same fun Here is a copy of the Porsche Aftersale information on the tiptro Technical lnforrnation Section - 3, Tiptroriic Transmrssion Tiptronic Transmission Repairs 'Jehrcle li/pe: 91 1 Carrera (997)/911 Carrera S (997) Mode! Year: As of '05 (5) Concern: Repair work on the 5-speed Tiptronic transmission A97.01 and damage analysis of transmission damage. Informatron. Until further notrce, ~nterndrle pairs to the above-ment~onedtr ansm!ssron should n ~bet p 2rforrried. Tra~smissionsfo und to have internal darnage wrll be replaced. Do not disassemble transmission. It is requested that you not drsassemble the transmission. Instead, send it with the barcode for warranty claim processing and the docun~entedir rforrnation listed in the "Warranty lrifo" sect!on beloi$d to the Warranty Test Center. Use normal warranty return procedures so that we may quickly collect ir~formationo n rnterrlal trar~sm~ss~doanm age durrng ttie lnitral production phase for product monrtoring. vYork or tire Tiptrorirc transmiss~ona nd accessories, e.g, transm~ssionr ernobal and rnstallat~ono r replaceme~3t f sealing rlrigs etc., can be carried out rn accordance with s~ec~frcatronrsn cor~orated Into the 'itorkshop Manual In POSES. lqarranty Info Accdrdte rnformatlon about the cornplalnt and the -inc~mstances ~nvolbed 1s necessary vghen the manual transrnlss~onsa re returned Th~sW II! allov, for aetter analysrs of the trar~srr~issiodna tnage Please document the following information and include it with the returned transmission. 1. Gear-changing difficulties: - Type of gear-changrng drff!culty (e g rough shifting, shrftrng jerks shWrr~g 1s delayed or cannot com~leted - At whrch gear cnange? - In ~vhlch selection mode iD,4/lj9 - Rhen shtftlng up ot doinin? - Gatsrde temperarure iapproxlmatelyl - Operat~ngc ondrtion (warmed up/coldi 2. Noises: - Type of noise (e.g. howl~ngs, inging, whrstling, grinding, knocking, grating, clicking). - Load ccndition (traction, deceleration, partral load, full load). - Vehicle speed, engine rpm. - Transmissron range, select~on mode (D,/M). - gperatlng condrtion (v~arrnedu p,icc;ld). 3. Leaks: - Precise description of the leaking area: e.g. 'transm~ssionin put shatt seal leaks' or "left/right drive shaft seal in direction of travel leaks'. References. POSES, Workshop Manual, 9i 1 Carreta (997): > Group 3 Tr ansmrssron, automat~c transmlssron (Ti2OC.l Po:.%chi: Cjrs Nor.!!! &p?pr;ca inc, Aftersales Date: 8-10-04 Page 1 of 2

Hi Pete here you go http://www.porsche.com/all/media/flash/tequipment/997/catalogue/en/index.htm#/34/

I have seen an Update available on the Porsche Tequipment brochure, it is very recent, at least in Europe, it also bring a compass option for the PCM, it is available on the website, just check out Porsche.com and select Europe

It happened to me a couple of times with the gen 1 key, especially with the key in my trousers pockets, I would suggest holding the key in your hands while approaching and leaving the car for some time so you will know if the key is the issue I got the gen 2 key from the dealer where I bought the car since the previous owner lost one, the gen 2 is the key of the 997.2, it is much heavier and feel like it is of higher quality, I never had that lid issue again Hope it helps

Sorry here are the pictures

Here is what I mean with the smaller 295 tires in the back, despite the fact that it is an 11 width wheel, it looks like it is not taking the full space You can see that the car shines, just polished it and waxed it this week

Hi everyone, One comment though, you do not want to put 265 in the back of a larger C4 or C4S, my 2006 C4S tip is equipped for the winter with the Carrera Classic II wheel in 18 inch 295 ( back) and I can see the difference in width vs the 305 tires, ok for the winter, but it looks odd I have been through snow storms with the C4S, it is not a SUV but much safer than a standard 2 wheel drive, I have been also to a ski resort in the swiss alps, steep drive and a lot of snow, up and down the mountain, no issues. I drive with Nokian tires (N specified ) My overall feeling is that the winter tires have less grip, maybe due to the narrower rear tires, the car really oversteers under rainy condition (which is fun), experts say under 7°C winter tires are better because they are softer, In Europe many countries are working to make winter tires mandatory, it is already the case in Germany, France is following Regards

Hi everyone, I have a C4S from 2006, in the morning I climb a hill to drive the kids to school, the speed is limited 30 KMH ( 20 MPH) the slope is regular and the road straight for about one mile, I climb the hill from cold start on the 2nd gear, when my car pass on the 3rd gear once it is a bit warmed up the revs go down one time and 2 seconds later a second time like 200 rev less while staying on the 3rd gear, It was always like this but I never really paid attention It is not an issue but I was wondering if there is a kind of overdrive or something? Thanks