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number9ine

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About number9ine

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    Pawling, NY
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2005 Porsche 911 Carrera S
  • Former cars
    2003 Porsche Boxster S
  1. I've done both the dealership test drive, and now the Porsche World Roadshow track drive. My impressions to contrast with yours: The car is definitely larger, although not overly so. Despite this, cabin space is still about par with the last model, you just get more dashboard and a bit of head and shoulder room. You make an allegory about weight, but the truth is that the car weighs less in similar spec to my 997. Hop in a time machine to 1963 to see P O R S C H E spelled out in big letters (gold colored, no less!) and you'll have a better understanding of why it's that way on the 991. Perhaps unnecessary, but nothing a bit of dental floss won't fix if you don't like it. I do. I could do without the full explanation of the model designation that goes below though. On the street, the 991 rides like a Lexus midsize sedan. The sound deading is up, the damping more refined, and no tire howl like the older models. It's so quiet that someone thought it fun to pipe in some PVC so you can hear the intake growl when you get on it. It's schtick, but it sells. The steering feel is accurate and without slop, but it doesn't transmit every expansion joint or pebble anymore. I personally miss that. Once you get on a track, the steering feels exactly as it should. The car is planted and neutral. There's little left of the rear bias, although tip-in is still sharp. Still eerily quiet, but with the windows down and the throttle flat on a track that won't be an issue. In short, the car feels soft until you want it not to. As much as this contrasts with the traditional Porsche ethos, it's clear that only Porsche could make a car that commutes and carves like this one. If you don't like the new 991, check out the 981. It feels and looks fantastic. It makes me miss my old Boxster, and it might be the replacement for my 997. Mark
  2. That worked perfectly. Thank you!
  3. Lost a code for a CDR-220, serial 15010041. Please help!
  4. Mice like to find their way into my cabin filter during the winter. It's happened twice now; 'twas a PITA getting the smell out the second time with the carcass, urine, and God knows what else the critter dragged into my cabin filter housing. Thankfully he used the filter itself as a bed and didn't get under it. Try taking off the fascia immediately left of the battery cover. You'll see the filter housing just under the windshield. Might as well replace your cabin filter while you're in there... whatever you do, don't spend $90 down at the dealer. You can get a charcoal filter for $30 on Pelican or elsewhere. I used a combo of Nature's Miracle, copious amounts of water, and a citrus cleaner from Stoner (but not on the paint). The smell of orange mouse ***** has finally dissapated after about five months. This winter, I'm going to stuff the whole area full of something to make it inhabitable... not sure what. Good luck tracking the smell. Mark
  5. Are you lowered? Wide wheels? Spacers? The common solution to rubbing with any of these mods is to roll your fender lip. I'm not aware of any adjustment that can be made to the steering rack or supporting parts that would alleviate the rubbing. Mark
  6. The rear main seal (RMS) is probably what the carfax refers to as the "driveshaft seal." The intermediate shaft flange is the piece that holds your intermediate shaft; the IMS bearing underneath (as I imagine you have read) is prone to fail on earlier models, but I've read a reinforced bearing was introduced in the 2006 MY that should lessen the risk. The newer Porsche CPO is roughly equivalent to the new car warranty in terms of coverage, which is nice. I know values have crept back up, but your dealer's pricing is probably the top end of the market. Prior to certification, it's likely that they took the car in for $10-12k less than their advertised price. I'd push harder on price, considering it's still a buyer's market and the C2S is the volume 911. There's plenty of nice examples out there. Good luck! Mark
  7. +1 on the cosmoline. The rubber smells too from heat and squibbles on the exhaust, but that deep oily smell after a good drive seems to emanate from the cosmoline coating on the engine block. I'd venture to guess that's mostly what you smell. If the smell is acrid, perhaps you have an under-inflated tire that's rubbing sidewall on corners. Mark
  8. Your master cylinder is at the front, I'm not sure any part of the braking system would be causing that noise. I suppose it's possible since the brake booster could be causing something to "fart" on the motor from undue strain placed under braking. I would assume you'd feel something in the pedal, like increased effort or uneven braking. If something is loud enough for you to hear in the cabin, I assume it'd be easy to localize outside the car. If the sound doesn't reproduce at idle, you could place it on jackstands and have a helper bring the car up to a very slow speed and brake. This assumes a flat surface, jackstands that can withstand the weight, proper jacking at the jack points under the rocker and liberal application of common sense. Do this at your own risk. Mark
  9. Does it sound like the motor is making the noise? Is it accompanied by a change of any kind in engine speed? I'd agree with your assessment of a vacuum leak. Is your MIL lamp (check engine light) on? Have you checked your brake fluid reservoir to make sure it's above the minimum line? I'd get the car started in a driveway and have a helper pump the brake while you listen for the noise at the rear. Might help narrow it down. Mark
  10. Sam, If you're looking to HIDE scratches then you should seek out a good wax. I use Zymol and have been perfectly happy with it, it's very easy to get that wet look after only a few coats and it fills in surface imperfections well. You can find it at most retailers within a few bucks of every other wax. Therock's suggestion of a quick detailer for wax maintenance is a good one, provided you apply on a clean surface. You should wax your car every six months or sooner for consistent protection. I recommend you don't choose a polish wax. The same imperfections you're trying to hide can be magnified or added to by the polishing elements. Polish waxes are designed to do two separate things at once, and accomplish neither very well. Spiderwebs, light scratches and holograms can be addressed with a paint correction, which requires non-wax polishing compounds and special applicator pads, plus a random orbital polisher if you want to get the job done in a reasonable amount of time. Mark
  11. I know nothing about the GT3 lifter, but what you describe sounds like a bad sensor, be it a microswitch or some other kind of device to detect the state of your lift. With a car this new, the dealer should diagnose and replace for free. Mark
  12. 1) you can do a wheel at a time, just be sure to re-pressurize the power bleeder at each wheel. I don't recommend putting the car on one jackstand for stability reasons, especially if you're skipping the bleeder and relying on a helper in the car. 2) As the DIY states, use a 9mm/11mm wrench to open the valves. I place the box end of the wrench onto the bleeder screw, then place the plastic tubing on. 3)I used a plastic sprayer pump from one of those empty spray bottles you can buy at HD or Lowe's. Works a treat. You'll want to evacuate as much fluid as you can. the more new fluid you can place in the reservoir, the less you'll need to top up as you bleed. 4)If you're using clear plastic tubing at the bleed screw, it's apparent when the clean fluid comes through. Make sure you re-tighten all the screws appropriately, and start at the furthest wheel from the brake reservoir (passenger rear), working your way closer. After closing the system and taking a test drive, if your brake pedal doesn't come to full pressure after a pump or two then there's a problem. Mark
  13. My brakes are infact ok but my scarp yard offered me to change them with mine for €300,- with mine as trade-in, they are from a totalled S version, still thinking about it do...what more did you change on your car? I'd advise against it. The S rotors are more expensive and wear both pad and rotor faster due to the cross-drilling. You'll also be interrupting the front-rear brake bias. Porsche designs their braking systems to exceed the car's capabilities, meaning that if you're experiencing fade, you either need to perform maintenance (flush the brake fluid, replace pads/rotors) or perhaps upgrade to a pad with more bite than stock, such as Pagid Yellow. You may want to re-evaluate your braking strategy if you're boiling the fluid in this car on a regular basis. The stock Boxster's brakes are perfect in my mind. You can perform a full service (pads, rotors, fluid flush) DIY for about $450 USD, which is the same money it costs to do the job in my old Passat Wagon with floating calipers. Without a major power upgrade there's no need for more than the stock brakes have to offer. Mark
  14. If you're at stock ride height, you should be fine. The suspension travel should limit the tire from rubbing at the lip. The spacers may affect the handling, but the tire width is the same as I have on my C2S in the rear and I don't notice a significant difference. You may have uneven tire wear issues with the spacers unless you've had an alignment with them on. Mark
  15. The symptoms definitely point to the "open/close" latch microswitch on both doors, odd that they would fail at the same time though. The switch can only be ordered as part of a new latch assembly unless you try to repair it as shown in the DIY. The R&R is fairly simple if you already have the door open to do the regulator. I believe the part number is 8N1-837-015-C-M100 for the driver door, not sure about the passenger. My wife's Boxster is having the same problem intermittently, and when it happens a movement of the latch away from the cabin with my finger can make the switch trigger. You might try the same to verify. The interior lights stay off when it happens because the car is led to belive the doors are closed. Good luck! Mark
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