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baronb55

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About baronb55

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    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    Key Wes, FL USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsce 996 1999
  • Future cars
    Porsce GT3
  • Former cars
    Porsche 944
    BMW 530
    Nissan 350Z
  1. I have a track-dedicated 996 (1999) with snell headers and mufflers and fabspeed xpipe (catalytic deleted). I am considering removing the mufflers and installing straight pipes from the xpipe out. Any idea if the reduction in back pressure that I expect to obtain will decrease the performance (that is, reduction of low end torque)? Any detrimental effects of this mod? Is it worth doing? Thanks for any input.
  2. Hello, I will be installing a new idle control valve today. After installation, is there a special procedure to initiate the new control valve? I know there is a sequence that has to befollowed after installing the throtle position sensor and wonder if the procedure is the same for the ICV. Thanks for your help
  3. Hi everyone! I have been having a recurrent problem with idle. It happens only with the engine hot after my track session. As soon as I finish my track session. the idle RPM fluctuates wildly and many times the engine quits. I don't notice any problems at speed. The only codes I get on the Durametric are does related to the removal of the cats. I had the indy look at this but it did not do it with him. Friends tell me that this could be a vacuum issue. 6 months ago I changed the throttle snesor after getting a fault code. This problem started about 1 month ago. The car is a 1999 996 that is dedicated to the track. KN intake , headers and removal of teh cats are the main modifications in the engine. Any ideas on how to tackle this gremlin? Current odometer 85,000. New spark plugs and plug cables.
  4. I was wondering if using a conventional oil with very agressive change intervals will not be detrimental as opposed to using the synthetics. Also, do you think that changing the oil as frequently as I do for track days is unnecessary? Just trying to make the sport more affordable but without hurting the service life of the engine.
  5. Sorry to bother everyone with a topic that has been discussed "ad nauseaum". I have searched tin the files and still find myself confused about choice of oil for my application. I have a 1999 996 with catalytic converters removed and LN IMS conversion. The car is a dedicatred track car. I change the oil and filter every two events (approximately 200 miles of use). I have been using Mobil 1 15w50 (silver cap) on every change. I also add one bottle of ZDDP plus to boost the zinc and phosphorus higher than the 1200 ppm that Mobil oil has. This is turning to be somewhat expensive and I also have issues with availability of Mobil 1 15w50 in my area. Have been thinking of switching to Valvoline VR1 20w50. Valvoline has a higher zinc and phosphorus content but is not synthetic. Would it be ok to switch to the Valvoline and save $4 per quart since the intervals for change are 200 miles? I would continue using the ZDDP Plus zinc additive. I live in South Florida and the temps are obviously warm. Thanks for any advise I can get.
  6. Thank you very much. The corner balancing has been done as well as the ride height (H&R coilovers dropped it by 1.5 inches). Got worried when I saw a guy in a BMW put racing fuel and then experiencing engine trouble at the race track. The race fuel is expensive but conveniently available at the track. It will save me a drive out of the track to refuel on extended track weekeends.
  7. Hello, I own a 1999 Carrera and have been doing lots of track events lately. The car has not been "chipped". The cats were removed and headers and mufflers replaced with FabSpeed. At the track they sell 98 and112 octane fuel (at a very high premium). My question is, can this fuel be safely used without any modifications on the engine or electronics and if so, will it improve performance to justify paying 8 dollars per gallon? I live at sea level in Florida. I searched the site and could find nothing on this topic, just references to low octane fuel. Thanks for any help.
  8. First in 1990 at age 30....a 1989 944 Second 2011 at age 51... a 1999 996 Third coming up this week.... a 1986 944 to prep as a track car.
  9. I will post pics as soon as the car gets back from fine tuning teh suspension and getting corner balanced. I know the feeling, my wife also was very helpful in helping select the wheels. They have to be involved or else.......
  10. Thanks to everyone who commented. I will forget about that idea. Will leave the 100LL for my Beechcraft. Don't have access to race fuel in Key West so I will stick to 93 octane and save myself a lot of money in repairs. Thanks!!
  11. Trust me, I know. I was very scared until I got them and tried them. Thank God I did not have to roll fenders either. 74 offsets! Where did you get them? My problem was that i could not find any offsets above 62 for the back
  12. I bought a 1999 996 with 78,000 miles. I made all the mistakes you can make including not getting a PPI. Thank God, I lucked out and no major issues were found. I did have to change the control arms (one was broken and just decided to change all of them,. I immeditely changed all the fluids, clutch, suspension (installed H&R street performace coilovers), rotors, pads, chain tensioners, polyrib belt, spark plugs and harness, light weight flywheel, headers, mufflers and installed cat by pass pipes. The IMS bearing (L&N engineering) and rear seals were also replaced. Finally, I installed 19 inch wheels with new tires. I paid 20K for the car and have spent about 12 K in improvements and maintenance. The end result is a 32K 1999 996 that looks and performs as good as any 12 y/o car with 78K miles can. Was it worth it? I think so. Looks to me that you may be getting more car than I did. Just be careful with the engine seals. 17K miles in 12 years does not seem to be much. These seals (I have been told) will dryrot in old low mile garage queens. The mechanic told me that the replaced IMS bearing in my car was still good. I intend to drive the car in DE events and autocross and enjoy it. For this reason, I probably went overboard with maintenance and upgrades. I personally like my lightly optioned 996 more than the newer cars with GPS systems and lots of electronics. My humble opinion...go for it after a good PPI so that you know what you are getting into.
  13. I will like to share with everyone my experience in trying to fit wheels on a NB 996 . I was able to fit 19 x 8.5 ET45 in front and 19 x 10.5 ET 52 in the back on my 1999 996 NB without any rubbing. The wheels are very close to the calipers on both wheels but nothing rubs. Wheels do not protrude from the wheel wells. I was not sure if they would fit because the offsets are so far from factory recc but it turned out really nice. Hope this information helps somenone.
  14. Will it be detrimental to the 3.4 L water cooled engine to use 100 LL gas on ocassions? I have removed the catalytic conveerter. Also, if I use it and mix it with 93 octane, will teh two mix or will the heavier 100LL sink to the bottom of the tank in a separate layer? I drive a 996 1999 with manual transmission and 81,000 miles. Thanks for any inputs.
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