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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    Salt air is about as corrosive as you can get above water. It can really reek havoc on electrical connections. You might want to check all the related wire connections. pull connectors off and on a few times. The same for related fuses. They don’t need to look corroded to be “open”. Moving them in and out of there sockets kinda’ scratches the connections clean. You could also have corroded contacts in the related relays. These can be cleaned to by popping the caps and running some fine sandpaper between the contacts. Then blow them out (this is sort of a a no-no but it always works for me*). Regards, PK *Put it this way, in 9 years I never bought a relay and never fixed one twice. I've had more than my share of electrical problems
  2. pk2
    On sparkplugs, stick with stock bosch or....(forget the other). Don mess with any with quad plutomium (whatever) grounding electrodes. To hot. With an 11:1 compression ratio you don't need it. Regards, PK
  3. pk2
    Nothing terribly flammable on the engine back there, that’s right about at the crank pully. If I remember correctly the fuel lines are to the rt. of the passenger side. It would take an accelerant to make a missed rim shot off the ashtray to burst into flames and do that sort of damage (maybe a spilled methanol martini) Plastics like Nylon melt and have a slippery feel. Nothing weird there. Regards, PK
  4. pk2
    Ditto. PK
  5. pk2
    I’d be in with some more clarification as to the method & methodology. Not the money, just don’t care for false diagnosis. PK
  6. pk2
    Your tick could be lots of things. Assuming it ticks in time with the motor and it is a lifter, it’s probably not hurting anything yet. Lifters rattling at cold starts are normal. It would be nice to if it ticks under heavy throttle orjust any old time, etc. MAF’s are pretty east to clean. K&N filters are quite controversial. Great arguments on both sides. I stick with the stock. I seriously doubt I’d notice any performance difference. Regards, PK
  7. pk2
    Seems every time I answer a question with conventional wisdom, someone pipes in with some common elixir specific to the 986, Since no one has, I’ll give it some conventional logic: -Clutch in (or out of gear?) no whine while it’s rolling; so it’s not: anything that’s left turning. That would be wheel bearings, half shafts, differential part of the transaxle, throwout (thrust) bearing, pilot bearing. -Engine rpms have no effect by itself (out of gear)so: nothing on or in the engine, water pump, idler, generator engine bearings etc -Wines the same independent of what gear your in; not the gears or there related bearings. -No grease on the ground and your sychros work fine so; being out of gear oil is pretty unlikely. - Directly related to cars speed with trans engaged; and so something that is spins with the wheels and the trans.. Not the wheels (above) , not the gears themselves (above) sooo… That leaves the trans, something very specific in your trans…maybe the output shaft when it has a load on it and thus it’s bearings or gears I’d take it to an indy shop soon and prove me right or wrong. If it’s a howling bearing in the trans, it can fly apart really wreck your trans (not to mention your day) Regards, PK.
  8. pk2
    Milage? Did happen all the sudden or over time? (as in getting worse). Regards, PK
  9. pk2
    Is the wine speed dependant or Rpm dependant? Cold, hot, all the time? Leaking? All gears? Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    I believe that is a requirement in some European countries. I think It would come on with your fog lights if the your U.S.(?) car is wired for it. Regards, PK
  11. pk2
    I have to admit I know ziltch about Xeon lightsin particular but, It may a case that they’re either 100% on or 100% off depending on the voltage. That is, if the current dips below some threshold, instead of dimming, it turns off. This could be caused by a crappy ground. Sometimes it’s enough, sometimes not. A test:, Take the bulb out and work backwards. Jump it (12v direct to battery) and let it stay on for 15 minuets (or whatever) see if it blinks, than plug it back in and go to the next junction and jump it there for 15 again etc, etc.. Also, look for any correlation anywhere; the weather, what other devices are on, how the car is weighted etc. All of above and then some have stopped me in my tracks…not just a blink either. Regards, Pk
  12. pk2
    If you can double clutch half decently, though it may bump you a little, you’re taking a load of your syncros. Your trying to match the speed of the of the engine with that of the trans input shaft which changes with every gear change. Instead of the sychros doing it and wearing… you are. Every bit helps. Regards, PK P.S. If your good, you can shift without the clutch.
  13. pk2
    If your old top was a plastic window It’s a different animal frame wise. At some point they repositioned that micro switch. I think to the other side of the car. Anyway, find out where, you may be able to cob it into place. If not, see if you can get the switch and any bracket somewhere (wherever you got the top is a good start), Regards, PK
  14. pk2
    I think the door speakers are mounded under the lower raised panel they appear to be mounted in. You just have look around the parameter of that panel for little black torx head or Phillips head screws. The speaker itself has it’s own convoluted enclosure behind that panel. Regards, PK
  15. pk2
    I’ve never had problem but you could think of it this way, the pedal potentiometer sends out an “implausible” signal (and it snowballs into several throttle related codes). Then the throttle body receives garbled “implausible” signals from the “pedal potentiometer” and throws out it own “WTF” signal which intern snowballs into multiple throttle body relate codes. I would not be surprised if you really only has one problem It just seems to me that error codes seldom come in onsies’ Good luck, PK
  16. pk2
    I don’t think you’re hurting anything; otherwise there would be an awful lot of dead Porsches around here. Your engine will adjust. The only way to get 93 is find a station that sell 100oct unleaded, race fuel (google your area+ race-fuel) and mix with 91 at about 8:2 ratio. In a pinch I’ve added toluene (hardware store). It is already in pump fuel and by itself, is supposedly 112+octane. Both methods are expensive so if you don’t need to, don’t bother. Regards, PK
  17. pk2
    I’d second Loren, Silver Star recycling in Sacramento has never done me wrong. To me LA Dismantlers just does not have good prices and they think there the only game in town (well they are but not in the state). Regards, PK
  18. pk2
    I have 7mm in front, 15mm in the back and my heart is still beating. The price of the lug bolts nearly stopped it though. I think “S’s” have them (5mm or 7mm) all the way around.. Regards, PK
  19. pk2
    There are 3 switches, 2 relays in the trunk and 1 double relay/circuit thing above the fuse box. 1) Switch 1; is right where the very back of the clamshell bottoms out, little lever on it 2) Switch 2; to is under the carpet right behind your left shoulder 3) Switch 3; is hidden up in the lock/latch. Reach up in the whole and you can trip it. 4) Separate up and down relays are in a hidden carrier behind the a side panel on the left (in the back trunk). Remove to black screws and slide the carrier out. If your top is indiscriminate about when it stop (going up or down) forget these. 5) Double relay is above fuse box. May need to remove that kick panel. You can’t miss it, it’s twice as big as the rest That’s it from me for now, it’s late. Regards, PK
  20. pk2
    If it’s not crackling or crunching it moves smoothly when it does, I’d check electrical connections and the button itself. Also if it goes one way and not the other It could be one off the relays in the trunk. Theres also a big relay/circuit above the fuse box thats related. Sometimes just pulling them out and giving the wrap on the ground will unstick them. Unplugging and plugging connections a couple times will help ensure a good connection. And of course, make sure your hand break light is on. If its not, the switch in your handbrake is probably bad. The top won’t move Regards, PK
  21. pk2
    Get the black box under your seat out ASAP or kiss it goodbye!! Take it apart and dry it out. The bolts are torx head I believe, just 4. You need to slide the seat forward to get at the rear bolts and vice versa for the front. Do your self a favour, drill some holes in the floor pan under the seat at a lowest point near that black box (slop some primer on the bare metal). Then you do not need to worry about wrecking it (the black box) while you sort out the leaks. Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    No expert but I’ll speculate & take a stab at it. I doubt your engine is at fault. Probably not the ac pump either or you’d might be getting screeches from the belt. AC pump puts a significant load on the motor. Mine dogs at Idle for a second when the AC is turned on but, the pops back up to a normal rpms.. I believe the AC also shuts off under heavy acceleration. My guess is that the speed up (at dle and) cut out at heavy load circuit is amiss. Regards, PK
  23. pk2
    The O2 sensor is a “narrow band” sort. As I understand it it trips either one way or another (to rich or to lean no grey area ) & trips the CEL. In normal circumstances the ecu probably adapts the fuel accordingly by either sending more or less through to the injectors. It may also mess with the timing, don’t know. Does it effect performance? I suppose to some degree but since it is only a “yes/no” switch you have no idea to what degree it is out of whack. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    Your one step ahead of me on every count, I would defiantly look inside the box under the seat, Nothing to lose. It can look just ducky on the outside, no “ring around the toilet”. But, inside, a few signs of rust and corrosion, residue in the plastic box... adios.... Skip the dealer option, you might do well to find a kindly sole with a Durametric or PS2. Any decent indie will have the goods to. Me, a volt meter and wiring diagrams seems to get me through. With that said, EVERYTHING has a tentacle into that security box.....one splurch is all it takes. Your quandary is is interesting. My car was all thrashed up, totaled and unloved when I bought it. Everything that could go wrong did. It's now happily buzzing (for now) around at 270hp. The funnest p-car I ever ownded Regards, PK
  25. pk2
    I've been in the same predicament many times, unfortunately, I don't recall all the solutions (do a serch of my posts, here and elsware). Several times it was the security (?) box under the drivers seat. If flooded, it can get really weird. Might take it out (easy) and have a look inside, if its moldy looking, or shows other signs corrosion...bingo . They can easily be flooded and corroded if your drains are plugged. Another little stumper; disconnected engine ground straps. Figured this one out by running a jumper cable from the battery to the block near the starter. Finally, to measure the health of your engine as you describe, you can jump the starter without to much fuss. It won't start but and you can't warm it up (or...). But it will spin and from that you can learn a few things. Regards, PK P.S. While Loren was posting, I was typing...I'm really not a parrot.
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