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steveltx

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  • From
    Austin, TX
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 Boxster

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  1. steveltx
    Hello, This is a 1999 Boxster. I noticed that one wire on the wiring harness of the engine side o2 sensor is broken. I tried to find the wiring harness from the web and couldn't find anything. The wiring harness has the number 1-965 261-1 on it. It has 4 wires which are connected to the engine. The other side of the harness is connected to the o2 sensor connector. Is there anyway to repair the harness? Can I splice the wires and connect all 4 wires directly bypassing the connector? Thanks. Steve
  2. steveltx
    Hi, Thanks for the reply. I got an used gas pedal (part number 98642302708) from Ebay. At the front of the pedal, there is a cruise control module (part number 99661702103) connected to it. BTW, this is a Tiptronic. I think they just give it to me as a bonus. At the back of the pedal, there is a long steel cable. Is this the throttle cable? I want to replace the whole brake pedal as a unit and not to fix the old one. Is it easier that I use the old throttle cable and connect to the new pedal? Or should I use the throttle cable came with the new pedal and replace the old cable that's connected to the throttle body? Which way is easier? For the cruise control module, should I replace my working old one with the new one? This task doesn't look like straight forward. I appreciate your input. Thanks. Steve
  3. steveltx
    Hi, It's stuck at the pedal. The pedal is not even in straight forward position. The pedal doesn't move at all. If I push really hard to force it, I still can accelerate the engine. This is bizarre.
  4. steveltx
    Hi all, Never thought this is happening. The accelerator (gas) pedal for my 1999 Boxster is not working. It's stuck when I tried to push the pedal by foot and the engine is not going anywhere. The part for the whole pedal assembly is very expensive, over $400, This is the Tiptronic version. I found a used part for about $59. Does anyone ever had this happening before? Is it a DIY job? Anything I need to pay attention if I decide to replace myself? Thanks. Steve
  5. steveltx
    Hi, I am suspecting the cracked oil filler tube. AOS was also replaced recently. I searched the internet a little bit. Many people had broken oil filler tube and was having the rough idle problem especially for older Boxster. They also said that if you had a bad AOS earlier, the tube is very likely broken. Anybody knows how how to hard it is to replace the cracked oil filler tube? Thanks. Steve
  6. steveltx
    Hi, There was no code at all. The battery is very new. I think the electrical condition is good. Alternator is good. Is it possible that fuel injection was causing the problem? Also is there any better way to check the vacuum leak? Thanks. Steve
  7. steveltx
    Hi, It's been a few months since I posted the problem on this thread. I have replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the idle control valve and the throttle body. I have also replaced the MAF and even the crank position sensor. The problem still remains. My mechanic tried to help out but he couldn't find the problem. I am running out of idea and need to stop replacing parts. It's expensive. Does anyone have the idea that what I should check next? Thanks so much. Steve
  8. steveltx
    Hi all, This is a 1999 Boxster. The car always starts with no problem. Driving high speed is OK. The problem happened when driving low speed such as stopped at the stop sign, the engine then stopped. After that it's very difficult to start again and I need to wait for a day and the car will start again with no problem. I have replaced the crank position sensor and the problem still persists. I am starting to suspect it's the fuel pump or fuel pump relay. But the car always starts with no problem which puzzles me. Also there was no check engine light, no OPB code. The next area I suspect is the throttle body. May be it's too dirty and needs to be cleaned. Any suggestion is appreciated. Steve
  9. steveltx
    Hi Maurice, I finally found the CPS. It's about 1 inch from the of AOS lower mounting bolt. I used my hand to slide down from the bolt and finally touched the CPS. I couldn't see it but I knew that's the one because I could feel the shape. The problem now is how to replace it. The location is very deep and the space is very tight. I couldn't even see the sensor. I think I will need to use my hand to feel the bolt and remove it. This won't be easy. May be I need to have the garage do it. Thanks. Steve
  10. steveltx
    Hi, Mine is Tiptronic transmission. Is the picture different from manual transmission? There is not much room under the AOS mounting bolt. Thanks. Steve
  11. steveltx
    Hi Maurice, Thanks for the detailed information. I know roughly where the sensor is now. I am still trying to find it because there are just many pipes and steel bars in the area and I couldn't get a clear view. I have been under the car for 2 days now and still trying. Access to the bolt of AOS was not too difficult from the bottom and I used it as the reference point, I think it's not very far from the AOS mounting bolt? I am a little bit frustrated. I am not handy to fix cars. Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks so much. Steve
  12. steveltx
    Hi all, I searched the net and found a few threads that describe the location of the crank position sensor, one of the thread even had the picture to show. I was under the car for quite a while and still couldn't match the picture with the car. The thread says it's close to the flywheel housing. Where is flywheel housing? Is it on the driver side or passenger side? Is it close to the bottom of Air Oil Separator? Thanks for your helps. Steve
  13. steveltx
    Hi all, I want to replace the starter on my 1999 Boxster. Is this a DIY job? Do we have the DIY instructions posted somewhere in our forum? How long will this task take and what should I pay attention to? I already got the Bosch starter and I plan to install it this long weekend. Any information is appreciated. Steve
  14. steveltx
    Glad you found the problem and got it fixed. Just to clarify, you can test the AOS by removing the oil fill cap while the engine is running, not the dipstick. I figured that I owe you guys an update for the problem since you have been so helpful to me. No, the problem was not fixed, the problem returned after running for more than 300 miles. It's not the AOS. I guess that my original AOS is good. After struggling for a while, I started to check all the hoses around the engine. There are two big tubes on the driver side on top of the engine that connect the intake manifold and the throttle body via the third connecting piece. There were adjustable clamps that tighten the tubes and the clamps were not tighten enough which caused the vacuum leaks. The problem was caused by the garage after they replaced two emission parts and they did a sloppy job putting back everything back together. This is a BBB recommended garage and that's why I never trust the garage. When I mentioned the problem to them, they wanted to charge me more to replace more parts. I could waste thousand of dollars more if I believe them. After I tighten two clamps on top of the engines, the car ran more than 1000 miles so far and there was no P1126 any more. It's that garage that caused the problem and wasted me hundreds dollars replacing AOS and MAF. The parts are probably all good. Just to share this with you for this. Thanks. Steve
  15. steveltx
    I know that I need patience but I spent many hours trying to remove the tube and couldn't. There must be a better way. I saw a special tool on the internet. It's called ajustable hose remover. It's used to remove big hose simliar to the tube. It also has a handle that you can pull to remove the tube. Has anybody tried this? Thanks.
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