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Detoxx

Contributing Members
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About Detoxx

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    San Diego
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 911 Anniversary #728
    Saab 92x aka Saabaru - GoCart/Grocery Getter
  • Future cars
    Gt4
  1. WD-40 is not a lubricant, it will wash away any grease left. You can pickup lithium grease from any autoparts store
  2. Mine did the same thing. I lubed the two stanchion tubes(? not sure of the name) with with lithium grease and worked the wing up and down several times with the switch. For mine it appeared that the friction from the dry plastic rubbing against each other was causing the noise.
  3. Thanks for the advise Loren there's one nearby I have in mind
  4. Seen that one, unfortunately its doesn't wrap around far enough to protect the radiator. The lower radiator neck(for a better term) is close to the wheel wells. Also the skid plates would probably need to be mounted to the subframe to provide enough support to protect the lower radiator neck
  5. Thanks for the input, new radiator has been ordered.
  6. Does anyone know of any company that sells a front lower skid plate or any other product that will protect the radiators particularly the lower plasic neck from damage underneath the car? Or is this something that I will need fab up myself?
  7. A cone took out my radiator during the accident avoidence course in the porsche driving school yesterday. It looks like lower radiator plastic neck where the hose connects is the weak point and hangs slightly below the radiator height. If it gets hit I can see why it would easily crack the radiator, nice weak point on the 996. Pulled it yesterday once I got home, would recommned jacking and removing the front wheels but does not have to done as I didn't do it. I was being lazy and next time I will as it would have saved some time and swearing. Can't believe how much work it is to get it out compared to a normal radiator. Thought I'd ask the experts a few questions 1) Any way to repair this radiator (such as jb weld or permatex rad replair) or am I just better off getting a new on 2) Least expensive place to source a new turbo radiator & porsche coolant, have a 996 Anniv and it has the large rad. 3) Easiest way to burp the air out of the cooling system and/or have my indy shop do this part as they have the pressuring system for this. 4) Does anyone know of any idea's or way to protect the lower radiator neck TIA
  8. I had the dreaded roof creaking as well, the noise came from the passenger side above the rear seat. When I would push up on the steel rod attached to the headliner it would disappear. Now after a few hours of work, its blissfully quiet. To access the rear portion of the sunroof I removed the trim on page 70, (basicly the same as amcleod1 discribed) http://www.cannell.co.uk/996_Workshop_Manuals/996%20Group%207%20Body%20Interior.pdf Once I had the trim removed I popped steel wire attached to the headliner out of the holders on both the passenger and drivers side and then pulled back the headliner over the rear window to release. Instructions as here http://home1.gte.net/res0vzcg/porshu/Roof%20lining%20RR.pdf Once I had access to the steel rod and rear portion of the sunroof, I pulled the steel rod out of the holder and added a dab of grease to the end. Then on the passenger side I unbolted the two rear torx attaching the sunroof rail to the body of the car. Even with the two bolts out it was flush with the chaisis. There is a plasic piece that holds it flush, you can pull downward and it releases. Once released the rail hangs down slightly from the chasis. I put some felt tape on the sunroof rail that contacts the chasis. Then I rebolted rail to the chasis and put the steel rod back into the holder and put everything back together. Voila, no more noise.
  9. Had the same issue last month and it was the battery. Easiest way to check is to do what Loren said.
  10. I've experienced the same issue years ago in a 300zx. From what I remember it was the alternator.
  11. Logray confirmed this on RL From him The coding between your engine type and the beginning of the serial number are remanufactured engine code AT and the X51 designation 'S'. The next three digits of the serial number reflect the year of the engine. 66W is 1998 66X is 1999 66Y is 2000 661 through 665 is 2001 through 2005, respectively your engine type is m96/03 "S" is X51 designation "AT" designates remanufactured or Austauschmotor 665 designates 2005
  12. Update, just got confirmation that S does stand for X51. Thank you for your help
  13. Any idea what the "S" might be? I have a 2004 anniv, any idea if it might have to do with the x51 pkg? Can't seem to find anything about it
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