Dharn55

It is a 1-2 hour DIY. Look on the B&M site and download the instructions for installing their SSK. It will show you how to remove the center console. The the factory SSK just bolts in to replace the OEM. Simpler than the B&M where you have to cut some bushings. Remember to mark the cable attachments so you can get them back in the right place.

You may also want to think about replacing the plastic linkage, they wear fast and have alot of play. Both Agency Power and Schnell make metal linkages. The SSK reduces the throw, but with the OEM linkage there is still excessive slop.

Also, you could have gotten the Factory SSK for alot less than $500 from Sunset or on Ebay. Ebay is usually around $350-$400.

I was afraid of that. I hate to replace my top as it is in great shape. Woder if I could take it out and send it some where to have a new window installed?

To put a glass window top in an older 996 cab would be very difficult. The rear tray, rollbar assembly and several other parts are different. The are several threads here that have discussed this in the past. If you check out PET you will se how many of the parts changed in 2001 when they went to a glass rear window. If this was not the case many of us would have gone to glass by now.

To put in a new window you would have to remove the top in order to sew it in. A good top shop could do this.

Actually two things:

1) I'm trying to put a Tiptronic Steering wheel on my (non-tiptronic) car and use the steering wheel buttons for volume and FF/RW buttons. I found this website (http://p-car.com/diy/steeringradio/) that shows most of it, but it isn't very specific. One of the things that it doesn't help with is:

Where do I find the wires under the dash that hook to the wiring loom in the steering wheel: (part number 000 043 203 10). These are the wires that go from the tiptronic steering wheel buttons to the wires in the steering column to somewhere to tell the transmission to shift.

2) the next thing is easier. This article:

http://members.rennlist.com/loren/obc_stalk.zip

shows how to just pop the airbag wire off of the back of the airbag with a flat tool. Is it just that simple? I DO have my battery disconnected, but I don't want to have the airbag go off when I pry off this wire (from the back of the airbag).

For the airbag wires, it is that simple. As long as the battery is disconnected (soem say to have it disconnected for a few minutes before you do anything) the airbag will not go off. NOTE: DON'T RECONNECT THE BATTERY WITH THE AIRBAG DISCONNECTED OR YOU WILL GET THE DREADED AIRBAG LIGHT FAULT. Then it takes a trip to the dealer, or someone with a pst2 to turn it off. As to the wires going to the dash, keep searching.

:clapping: Actually, I found out that the old style bracket is still available from Porsche. Retail is about $108@ but Sunset can get them of $66@. For now I drilled out the old studs and used bolts. Seems to work fine. However, if someone has an old set of brackets/exhaust I would be interested in them. Thanbks for everyones help.

STarted my PSE install yesterday. Things were pretty rusted up so I finally got the cans off this morning. When I went to hang the new cans I found that the support brackets for the cans was different from the old ones. Apparently there is one set for cars through 01 (996.111.227.02 and 996.111.228.02) and a new style with a different bolts pattern for cars starting in 02 (996.111.237.02 and 996.111.238.02). Unfortunately, one or more studs broke off the old brackets so I can't re-use them.

In all the posts, DIY's etc. I have reviewed I don't remember hearing about this problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem when installing the new style PSE on an older car? :cursing:

Well, 3 days ago I posted a confession of my many mistakes in the PSE install, including this one:

"4. I struggled somewhat attempting to mount the new mufflers … until I went back and read in the TSB: “Note: For MY 99 through 01, the new mufflers can only be fitted using the existing muffler holder on the engine.” So, as usual, struggle, back up, read the instructions, then proceed again."

Kim

2000 Cab

So Kim, did you take the brackets off the old cans or change the actual support that bolts to the engine?

STarted my PSE install yesterday. Things were pretty rusted up so I finally got the cans off this morning. When I went to hang the new cans I found that the support brackets for the cans was different from the old ones. Apparently there is one set for cars through 01 (996.111.227.02 and 996.111.228.02) and a new style with a different bolts pattern for cars starting in 02 (996.111.237.02 and 996.111.238.02). Unfortunately, one or more studs broke off the old brackets so I can't re-use them.

In all the posts, DIY's etc. I have reviewed I don't remember hearing about this problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem when installing the new style PSE on an older car? :cursing:

So, if anybody has an old exhaust and does not need the brackets, I'm in the market. PM me, PLEASE!!

STarted my PSE install yesterday. Things were pretty rusted up so I finally got the cans off this morning. When I went to hang the new cans I found that the support brackets for the cans was different from the old ones. Apparently there is one set for cars through 01 (996.111.227.02 and 996.111.228.02) and a new style with a different bolts pattern for cars starting in 02 (996.111.237.02 and 996.111.238.02). Unfortunately, one or more studs broke off the old brackets so I can't re-use them.

In all the posts, DIY's etc. I have reviewed I don't remember hearing about this problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem when installing the new style PSE on an older car? :cursing:

My driver's side plastic running board is broken near the rear tire because I bottomed out on a curb and needs to be replaced. :cursing: Well anyways, I need a part number so I can replace it. Also, I might as well get the passenger's side part number as well, just in case.

TIA! :unsure:

Left side is 996.559.983.02, or 996.559.983.03. Right Side is 996.559.984.02 or 996.559.984.03. I think the.02 is for the aero I and the .03 numbers are for the Aero II

Look at your option code. the standard radio is a M441. In this configuration both sets of speakers have wiring going directly to the radio/head unit (according to the wiring diagrams I have). If you have the HiFi option (M490) or the Digital Sound (M680) the three sets of speakers, dash, doors and rears, go to an amplifier located in the bonnet. Outputs from the radio go to the amp. I suppose it is possible that the wiring harness' could be the same for M441 and M490, and then be jumpered to the radio, but usaully the harness are specific to the option ordered. The amp is located on the passenger side of the bonnet under a plastic cover, you could look there and see if wires run to both the speakers and the radio.

For anyone who doesn't want the elctronics side of the PSE (i.e. switch, relay, wiring harness) I am looking to buy the set up. If you have one you want to sell send me a PM

Hi there i am just doing a complete make over on my 996 C2 non facelift model, Here are some pics of the front turbo bumper. This is a MASHAW one i bought off someone from the porscheclubgb forum. £200.00 It took a while to adjust it as the front top section just under the bonnet Sorry (hood) is fully adjustable to get the bumper to line up correctly with the said hood. Anyway good luck.

Steve UK

Tried 6speedonline a couple of times today. they have let their domain name expire and you can't get them

does anyome know where the factory amp is located on a 2001 996 cab 4? thank you

In the trunk, passenger side, near the CD player is a plastic cover (sorry I don't have a picture). One screw and a few clips (careful you can break them off easily) and you can remove it. Underneath is the amp.

i want to replace my 2001 996 cab4 front bumper w/ a a 2002 turbo bumper. both bumpers are oem. will this work w/o modifications? thank you

2001 have the old style hearlights. 2002 have the "Turbo" style headlight. So to use the 2002 bumper you need new fenders, headlights, etc. The are sources for a turbo look bumper for a 2001 or earlier car, but most are fiberglass rather than polyurethane.

Alright, well it snowed pretty badly in Chicago last weekend and my car got covered in salt. The next day I drove my car straight to the car wash about 5 blocks away, washed it and drove it straight home and parked it. Well, when I hopped in my car today...4 days later...and disengaged the park brake I had to give the car some gas before the brakes broke loose of the rust...ughh. Anyhow, the first few brakes were very weak and had a scratching noise. As I kept driving they started to get better, but were still making a noise. Anyhow, I drove around for a few blocks and decided to park the car. Will this noise eventually go away or did I cause any permanent damage to the brakes?

Thanks in advance...

joe

This a common and well known problem. Surface rust on rotors adheres to brake pads. Just drive it for a few miles and it will wear off. It happens on my 2000 on a regualr basis. Once the pads partially frooze up in the calipers when I had it parked in damp weather for about two weeks. Took it to the dealer and they freed them up (still under warranty at the time.) They suggested not using the parking brake it the car would be parked for long period of time.

Carnewal.com

Carnewal is great, I have bought several things from them. But you might want to talk to Jeff at Sunset Porsche, I think his price is very competitive ( I can't find my note from when he quoted me). Just an alternative.

That sucks. 3.6 is not any easy fit, different electronics etc. I believe a remanufactured motor from porsche is between 8-10k not including installation.

I have a '99 996 Cab with under 50k miles and suspect a blown head gasket or worse. The car has never overheated or run more than a couple of ounces low on coolant. The other day within less than a mile of driving, engine running rough, CEL flashing, coolant dripping out exhaust and muffler to Cat connection. Called dealer and they said probably head gasket or slipped sleeve. I thought the sleeves were cast in and couldnt slip. Does anyone know for sure? Or have any ideas? I have no warrenty and am the second owner and may want to fix it myself. Or I thought about a low mileage 3.6 and am wondering if anyone knows if it would fit? What does Poesche typically charge for a remanufactured motor? Thanks for any help or related info.

I found this auction on ebay the other day, don't know anything about the source:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-01-Porsc...sspagenameZWDVW

Also do a search on Rennlist for "rebuilt engines" I started a thread there the other day on this subject and auction. One owner in CA seems to know this source.

Never seen that few, or that much. For the 996/986 locks it was about 30.

The lock style changed for 987/997 and I do not have a picture of that kit.

Hi again all. I was wondering, since my closest dealer is over an hour away, can they, by chance, determine locking lug pattern by VIN? Thought perhaps I could order and save a trip. Or is there a way to remove them without the "key" and just replace with regular lugs? I may change wheels, and theft isn't a large concern (car doesn't get out much). Thanks as always for all the wondeful help & advice!!!

They are not related to the VIN, and may have been changed during the life of the car. A local INDY may have a set.

See the thread on the Durametric product here.

I have one now for evaluation.

Loren - I bought one last week and just tried it today. It cleared my airbag fualt code and light succesfully. Checked my other fault codes. Several in the alarm functions, won't clear these (as the ebay add stated it would not yet do this), also found codes in the seat memory, 26- pot mirror left vertical open circuit . 24-pot mirror left horizontal open circuit, 22 - pot mirror right vertical circuit open and 20 - pot mirror right horizontal open circuit. Any idea what these are. My mirror are working fine. However, when I did my heated seat DIY I lost the dipping of the right mirror when in reverse and my seat memory. I may have a loose connection that I did not know about.

Durametric says they will update all software as they add features. Anything I can do to help your evaluation, let me know.

in defense for Road Race (the company):

They sent me a replacement right side tip switch today. I installed it in the wheel and it works fine.

(They didn't charge me for it, either).

Now I've just got to find the time to install it in the car.

Anybody know if you need a special tool to remove the steering wheel? My 1963 Falcon and 1966 Mustang needed a "Steering wheel puller".

No special tool, you need the right size long torq x that is inserted in the back of the wheel to loosen the air bag, then it pulls off. then I think it is a 22 MM socket for the nut that holds the wheel on. there are several posts with detailed instructions, and pictures. I am trying to find my notes on the posts.

WARNING DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND DON'T RECONNECT IT OR TURN THE IGNITION KEYS WEHN THE AIRBAG IS OFF. IF YOU DO YOU WILL GET AN AIRBAG LIGHT THAT REQUIRES A PTS2 TO TURN OFF!!!

We all know that Porsche limits the availability of parts for our engines and only offers their "remanufactured" engines. Today I found this link on Ebay for a rebuilt engine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-01-Porsc...sspagenameZWDVW

Does anybody have any experience with this source? I'm wondering if we may soon have an alternative to OEM for engine problems.

I have a 2000 Cab with the HiFi Option, so it has door subs and front and rear components. I put a pair of Focal 100KP in the front (dash) with the cross overs in the trunk. Then put the mids from a pair of Focal 136KP in the doors. Sound much better than stock, even with the Porsche amp and Becker heard (CDR220). I am going to put in a 6-way amp, but you can use the stock units and get a good result. I would suggest useing a true sub in the doors, Focal makes a 5WS that will work better (5.25").

There are many posts here and on Rennlist on this subject. Lots of pictures, etc. Just do a search.

Should be no problem. Just check to make sure they have the options you have, i.e. power, heat, lumbar, etc. If you don't have power and the replacements are power you will need wiring, etc.

handbrakes on 996 are well know for sticking. This is particularly a problem in wet weather, the pads will stick to the rotors and sometimes you will get a major thunk when they break free. Some advise not to set the handbrake if the car will be sitting for a long period of time. On mine you can often see the image/outline of the pads on the rear rotors. The problem with the rotors rusting/corroding is well known. I am not sure if the newer rotors have reduced or eliminated the problem.

Loren - If you get the OEM PSE mufflers, what else do you need to install them. I mean the electrics, etc. assuming you want to be able to control them.

I added heated seats to my car and that connector under the seats does not look like the connector I used (ordered the harness from Porsche). May be for power seats or lumbar support.