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Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. Those will hit the first time you go over a major bump and then you will have body and/or tire damage.There are lots of Turbo Twists out there, check eBay and other sources.
  2. Cam position sensor will make it run poorly but won't keep it from starting. The crank position sensor will keep,it from starting.
  3. Hey, I think that is my picture (-: But when this happened it was making a loud clacking noise, not a groan. The picture shows the top mount for a C4, which is quite different from a C2. in the last couple of years my car started making unbelievable groaning noises when the steering wheel was turned. Replaced the front lower control arms and the noise is gone.
  4. The control module had failed. Used one will be here tomorrow morning!
  5. Hobbes. Tried this but it did not help. I have now checked all 9 microswitches and reset/ checked both petentiometers and reset the latches at the windshield. Still no luck. I had a voltage meter on the leads to the hydraulic pump and there is no power being fed to it. Once the clamshell is open and the latch is open I hear a click and the in a few seconds another click, but no power to the pump. My next shot is to switch out the cab control module with one from a friends car that we know works. If that fixes the problem I will know the control module failed. If not I am not sure what I will t
  6. On my 2000 C4 Cab the top stopped opening yesterday. The clam shell opens and the latch at the top of the windshield opens and then it stops. You can hear some clicking. When I run my Durametric it shows a fault code, 5 - maximum time exceeded. If I clear this error it re-appears. A little background on this. Yesterday morning I used the RemoteTop on the car to open the top and it opened about 6" then stopped. This had happened a couple of time recently. When I got in the car and used the dash switch the top opened all the way. We went to the farmers market and used the dash switch, with the
  7. In the 16 years I have had my cab I have cleaned the drains for the cab top 3-4 times, but this spring the drivers side got blocked again. After a very heavy rain my locking system was going crazy with the car just sitting there. I opened it with a key and found almost an inch of water under the seat on the driver side. I took out the unit, opened it up and dried it out. Then sprayed some electronics cleaner on it. Unit works fine. However I have been trying to dry out the carpet for over a week now and the closed cell backing is still damp. Under the carpet there are recesses in the body and
  8. I have had a Durametric for over 10 years. Bought one of the first ones made and upgraded the cable a few years ago. It is a good system. Is it as good as the original Porsche systems? No, but it works great for a fraction of the cost. The new Porsche system leases for $15,000+/yr.
  9. If you have a C4 shop around for the top mounts. You see them all the time for $250-$300@+. I found them a few years back for closer to $150@, OEM, at Sunset I think. My buddy just paid $300@ each at his Indy.
  10. OK, I will put in my $.02 worth. Lifetime coolant is a bad idea, unless you define it as the lifetime of the engine (i.e. When the engine fails die to bad coolant). When my car was made (2000) Porsche recommended oil changes every 15,000 miles, what a joke! Do you know anyone who recommends going 15,000 miles on these cars today? When I had my intermix/cracked head back in 2008 I drained and flushed the entire coolant system several times to remove the contamination. Since then I have run PEAK coolant and have had no problems whatsoever. If you want to pay the extra for the Porsche coolant be
  11. PM me your email and I will give you a DropBox link with a bunch of info on the difference between the VarioCam and VarioCamPlus systems. Theu are quire different. In a nut shell the VarioCam system is a simple advance of the intake cam at a certain RPM and then releases the advance at a higher RPM, and vice versa. The amount of advance is fixed. The VarioCamPlus system has a variable amount of advance and can change the lift of the intake valves. So the control system is entirely different. And the Engine Management System is entirely different between the two to control this, and the lat
  12. Yes. The electrical connector is a simple slip connection. The two fuel line just take a 15mm wrench to losses. Not all cars have this fuel cooler.
  13. Contact Gbox in Colorado. http://www.gboxweb.com/index.html They have rebuilts or will rebuild yours for a fraction of that price.
  14. You can tell if it is a dual row or a single row by looking at the flange, you don't have to remove it. If it is the single row then upgrading is a great idea. If it is the dual row than upgrading the IMSB is not as important. If you read up on the subject, including infor from Jake Raby, the failure rate on the dual row ISMB is much lower. Of course that being said I did upgrade my dual row, but used the direct feed system. Just a personal choice.
  15. Nice that someone is finally making oversized bearings for these engines. But $999 for a set of bearings is pretty crazy. Better than the cost of a new crank though.
  16. I bought an engine stand from Pep Boys that has enough adjustment to fit. It is the Big Red 750lb stand, all of $69.99.
  17. You only have to take off three of the bolts. There is the rubber disc, referred to as a guibo, three bolts hold the drive shaft to the guibo and three bolt hold the guibo to the flange on the rear of the transmission. I think I took off the three that attached the guibo to the flange on the transmission. to secure the driveshaft rotate it until one of the bolts is at the bottom, then put the transmission in gear and loosen that bolt, take the transmission out of gear and rotate the shaft until the next bolt is at the bottom, put it in gear again and remove this bolt, then repeat. Very easy t
  18. No, you can lower the motor a few inches without damaging the trans. I did it a couple of weeks ago when I removed my coolant tank to test It for leaks. A controlling factor is the cross brace on the rear suspension. Once the engine goes down a few inches the engine/trans hits this and not go down any further. Take it slow to check for any tight wires and hoses. You will probably need to disconnect the fuel houses anyway as it is relly tight and the fuel filter that mounts on the coolant tank has to come out. Also the secondary air pump. You have to lower the engine as the tank will hit the in
  19. If you have a C4 did you take the fuel filter off the mounting bracket on the tank. My car is a 2000, so the tank is a little different (and almost twice the cost) but I had mine out this weekend. I took out the air box, the air pump and moved a lot of hoses. It was still a ***** to get out. There was no way it would come out without the fuel filter taken off and the engine lowered. Then it was still difficult to get it out. Just kept wiggling it and checking clearances. Same thing getting it back in. I had a few drops leaking onto the exhaust, thought the tank was leaking. It was replaced on
  20. Sure, it has been sitting in a box since I upgraded my system several years ago so no rush.
  21. You will probably have rubbing issues with ET50. I tried a set for a while and the rubbed. Rolled the fenders and the still rubbed. Sold them and went with the ET65 and no problems. The ET 50 are basically set out 15mm farther than the ET65's. With any width on the tires they tend to rub. At least that was my experience. The rims I tried were LM's.
  22. I had a noise in my right rear brake for months starting fall of 2013. I could not figure out what it was for the life of me. Checked the brakes pads, the CV joints. Control arms, etc. etc. stopped driving the car over the winter when I could not find it. Still there in the spring and I could not find the source. Then I dropped the engine to reset the cam timing and install a new IMSB ( DOF but that is another story). When the engine was out I rechecked everything and could not find the problem. Engine went back in and ran fine but still had the **** noise. It ended up parked in the garage and
  23. For the headlight flash to open a garage door here is what you need. http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/products/ Added this to my car years ago and it is great.
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