Dharn55

Used to be $60, now it is about $180. Plus install.

I bought my Super Sports at Costco and they were a little less than buying from Tirerack and h aging them mounted locally, and this included road hazard which would have cost extra at Tirerack. However the Spuer Sport is not "N" rated if this matters to you.

For my experience the Super Sports are quieter, handle better in both the dry, are supposed to last longer, and were cheaper than the PS2's that I had been running.

Replacing lifters is a good idea. They often get stuck and affect the performance. I know I replaced all of mine when I did some engine work a few years back and several were stuck. Porsche has a superseded part number at a higher cost but you can still get the originals at a lower cost under a BMW part number.

Rattles on start up are often the chain tensioners on the IMS to crank chain or the IMS to cam chains. As they get old they leak down when the engine is off and take a second or two to pump up when the engine is started. This allows the chains to rattle. You can all three for only $200-$300 and they can be replaced with the engine in the car. The only one that is difficult to change is the one on the 4-6 side at the rear of the car on the top as you have to remove the AC compressor. As you have dropped the engine you know how to remove this.

Fairly inexpensive DIY that will probably fix the problem.

I used an engine assembly lubricant which is made for internal use and has no effect on the oil. Just my $.02 worth.

It is not that surprising that the OEM stud snapped off. There is a groove cut in it which is one of the weaknesses of the design. The easy out should work, talk to Charles at LN and see what he says. Prior to the development of their specific tool I know they were using a third party puller with a plate on the case to spread the load. They are nice folks at LN so I would talk to them.

Headlight douche. Now that is something I haven't tried!

The piece of rubber hose with the two hose clamps is not OEM. It looks like something broke and this was a repair. That might be the cause of some oil residue.

The aftermarket makes replacement tops with glass windows that are much smaller than either the plastic window or the later model glass windows that will fit the earlier models. The OEM glass window tops will not fit without extensive replacement of other components.

My local dealer sold me a key blank cut to match mine for about $40, they did the cutting in the shop. This did not include the pill of the remote. Those I bought from Sunset and the dealer charged me 1 hour ($159) to program them. They said it was the same charge whether they did one or several as the minimum charge was one hour and it really only took about 15 minutes.

Same tool set is available on eBay for $399 US. Just look for Porsche 996 tools.

The difference is not between the coupe and cab, but between cars with the litronic and the standard headlights.

Actually there is one on eBay right now for $55, free shipping. Probably less than having them drilled out.

The sub frame is held in place by four bolts. Not a big thing to take it off, but they say not to move the car around until it is pUt back in place.

You can find lots of these subframes on eBay for about $100. They are all the same for C2, C4, etc from '99-'05 I believe

+1

I have the PSE but never connected the speedometer wire for the override to quiet from 25-45. I am curious, does the light on the switch go on when the override goes into effect or just when you switch it to quiet mode?

My car is low enough that I can't fit my drain pan under it. I back the rear wheels onto a couple of pieces of 2x12 on each side that raise it up just enough to clear the pan. With this low angle you might get a little oil left in the pan, but hen there is some oil throughout the engine that does not drain. On Dino ramps the angle is steep enough to hold more oil in the pan, but not a big deal.

PM me with your email address and I will send you one. I think I can figure out which one you need as there are about 20 pages of diagrams .

Also take a look at the seal around the cam advance actuator solenoid. These commonly leak.

This could very well be the vacuum lines to the PSE, but it is not the OEM path for the lines.. The default position is loud, so if you don't try to switch it to quiet mode you might not know this is leaking. I would reconnect it as it may allow vacuum pressure to leak out of the system. There are components that are supposed to prevent this but I would fix the connection.

There is a breather tube that runs from the AOS To a connection on the top of cylinder head 4-6 above where you are seeing the oil. This is often the source of oil in this area.

I believe the cap you are referencing is a freeze plug that is friction fit into the engine and not typically the source of a leak.

Maybe the install is attached to the Toyota engine! No more IMS worries:-)

I recently got a tear in one of the flap covers on my cab with a blue top. I need a piece of blue canvas to recover it and thought someone might be replacing their top and could spare a piece from the old one.

I contacted one of the companies that makes the tops but they require that you buy a full sq. yd. which is about 10 times what I need.

Just ordered 2 one button remotes from Sunset today, $128@. If you look on eBay and other sources the two and three button are sometimes cheaper but I think from the dealer they are about the same ( list is about $185). I am looking forward to having remotes again, mine failed over the last few years, the second one over a year ago.

My guess is that the top was replaced. The cover looks like the original color of the top and the top looks like a lighter blue. IMHO