Dharn55

The rear shocks are the same for a C2 and a C4, the fronts are different. The springs/spring rates are different between coupes and convertibles, and the front springs are different between C2 and C4.

If you decide to replace all four, and not to go with a coil over (I love my PSS10's) you might want to check out the new Koni FSD. They are only available for the C2, but the guys on the 993 forum rave about them.

Try Gbox. They rebuild they rebuild the trannys. Also Vertex has rebuilt units. Probably 1/3 the cost of Porsche.

Streather's book has a plethora of information on the 996 and is one of the most complete sources of information on the cars, but does not really address performance upgrades. He also does quite a bit of editorializing on the cars, not all of which I agree with.

44 on the rears is going to provide a pretty hard ride. I generally run about 40 for the street. Still these cars are Lincolns!

These cars are no know for a luxurious ride by any means. Is yours a stock suspesion or has it been lowered or modified. Many people buy these cars thinking they want a "Porsche" and then end up selling them for somenting else, this was particularly true with the 996 and 997, the new 991 has a ssofter ride. My daughter's friend mother bought one back in 2000 when I bought mine, she had to have a Porshce. Then sold it afdter 6 months and a few thousand miles and bought a Lexus.

On rough roads you do tend to feel just about everything. This is also affected by the tires and the pressure you run in them. And the tires tend to get very loud after they are worn down. In general wide tires like these cars have tend to howl, and there is not a lot of sound deadening.

Try to take a ride in another 996 and compare it.

The 3.6 is a VarioCamPlus engine. You could do the swap with another VarioCamPlus engine but doing it with a VarioCam engine would be very difficult.

Go to eBay and search Porsche 996 flex. There are several listed on a regular basis. Lowest price now is $89.

That is a picture of a new crate engine that I thought about buying 5 years ago.

My climate control fit in the lower spot with no modification. What was the housing of the control hitting that it would not slide all the way in?

They also have an o-ring.

Looks like the tensioner for the 1-3 cam chain.

The one you want is the second item. The other two are the swirl pots inside the oil pan.

They say you should wait a while to let the springs settle. I drove my car with the new PSS10's for a couple of hundred miles.But it was not noticeably out of alignment or pullings. You don't want to go long enough to effect the wear on the tires.

Having thought about this further, if you remove the top nut and stop plate while the strut is in the car you should be able to see the bushing. To do this I think you need to have weight on the wheel, so that the shock portion of the strut does not drop down, and you need to be able tp keep the shaft of the shock from turning, which can be a problem.

I am not sure that you could see the problem without disassembling the strut, I know I did not, but then I wasn't looking for this specific problem. In the diagram of the PSS10 here you can see the two stop plates that pretty much hide the inner part of the bushing

.

Here are some more pics of the mounts and stop plates themselves

So with the top nut on the strut tightened the two stop plates compress on the inner part of the bushing shown on the side in the first photo, hiding it and holding it in place. On mine I could not see that the rubber that held the inner piece in place was basically gone. Maybe if I ahd known what was going on I might have been able to tell, but certainly not without removing the strut from the car..

JB Weld! What do you think?

Just had to replace my upper strut mounts on my C4. The mounts are the same on the C4,C4S and Turbo in the 996 series. They seem to have changed with the 997 series, at least a different part number and a lower price but I don't know if they are compatible. Here are pictures of one of the upper mounts out of my 12 year old car.

When I put my PSS10's in about 2 yeras ago the mounts looked fine, but this one had certainly failed. I have not disassembled the other side yet but ordered each side (they are different). I had a very loud clacking sound, and now I know why. The mounts list for about $237@, got them from Sunset at $145@ in stock. I actually thought about the Tarret Engineering Monoball mounts, which just came out for the C4, but they were $499 asnd I don't track my car.

So if you are having some noice in an older car you might want to check your mounts. I could not see any problems until I actaully took the struts apart.

Had some noise in my front suspension and look what I found, the upper strut mounts were shot. If you are re-doing the front suspension in an older car (mine is 12 years old) you might want to replace these too.

I was having the same problem when installing my PSS10's. Took the struts to a friends shop where he had a good impact wrench with lots of air pressure . With that it came right off. The right tools are always helpful.

Streather's book is good, although he has some opinions given as fact (about failure rates and design flaws) that I certainly don't agree with but it has a plethora of information on the 996. That being said it is not a workshop manual. If you are going to be doing work on one of these cars you really should invest in the Porsche shop manuals. They are sometimes challenging and a little obtuse, but are pretty essential for working on the cars. And the Porschelibrarian is a great source.

From the description is sounds like one of the wraps around the wiring harness, tubes and other items. I will try to post a picture of what I am talking about when I get to my computer.

I think in cars that have a dipstick it is more reliable/accurate than the electronic sensor. With both you have to give it sometime to let the oil return to the pan for an accurate reading. And of course i believe the electronic sensor uses the temp of the oil so the oil has to be warm.

I have never really liked the fact that the dipstick has been removed from the newer cars.

The latest version of the Duramteric has the top calibration although I have yet to use it.

There is a heat sensor located between the front two intakes on that side. If you takes this out, it as a rubber grommet and slides in between the two intakes, you can get a straight sht at the bolt. Also, on some cars there are two fuel lines that run to the compressor that have to be removed. My 2000 C4 has these.