j_beede

Hello Bhupesh,

PCNA is simply Porsche Cars North America, you can find them at www.porsche.com/usa. I expect that you have already visited Porsche's India site at www.porsche.com/india? I see that Porsche's few dealers in India are concentrated between Mumbai and Bangalore. You may want to try calling Porsche at 1800 1036 911 or 1800 2096 911 for suggestions. My guess is that Porsche will be interested in helping as they strive to ramp up in India. From the India website:

"Porsche enjoys an extremely passionate and dedicated customer base in India and we certainly look forward to welcoming more enthusiasts into our family. I hope that you will enjoy the content of our exclusive India website and your suggestions and comments will always be welcome. You can reach us at info@porsche.in or +91 8655 000 911."

If you are able to locate the options sticker you should have no problem deciphering the codes using an on-line decoder like the one at www.kindel.com

Keep in mind that the option list for your car was correct when it left the factory... it is not uncommon for things like factory radios, phones, CD changers, steering wheels, seats, wheels, bumpers, wings, suspension components, etc. to be swapped out by owners or sellers along the way. For example, US spec 997.1 utilize a fiber based network as part of the information and entertainment system. If your candidate car has an aftermarket radio/stereo/DVD/GPS/amplifier the stock fiber network may have been preserved or altered or removed. This could be a good thing or a bad thing depending on your preferences and plans for personalization or preservation. Such changes would likely conflict with your factory option codes and would be pointed out as part of a comprehensive PPI.

I wonder, If the car is truly an extraordinary bargain I wonder why a mechanic (described as familiar with the car) has not already purchased it for his personal use or financial gain?

...j

HI,

 

I AM NEW TO THE FORUM.

I am planning to buy a 2007 997 Turbo. The seller is ignorant and does not have the full documentation of the vehicle. I need help learning more via the VIN Decoder. i need to know the complete option list of the car. How can i?

 

I have driven the car. The engine and the transmission is top notch. No fault codes either. The suspension  and tyre need definite overhaul and replacement. Any idea what it would cost excluding the tyres. Since the road are quite bad in India, would you advice going for the stock coilovers or Bilsteins to make the ride a wee bit more forgiving. I AM NOT GOING TO TRACK THE CAR EVER.

 

All advice is highly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

To best help you the people here will want to know more about the car in question...

I am not certain what you mean when you say that your seller is ignorant. I assume this means you are not buying a certified car from a Porsche dealer. I suspect the car is without repair history and service records? Has the car had multiple owners? Have you arranged for a pre-purchase inspection?

Regarding suspension... Some Porsche fans find the 997 too soft to begin with. The 997 is certainly "more civilized" than the air cooled 911s, still it would not be my first choice for driving on rough roads. Your local Porsche club will be familiar with the road conditions that you are dealing with and will be best positioned to recommend suspension changes. 

Regarding options, most Porsche cars come with a small white sticker, about 10cm x 15cm, that I have seen applied to the underside of the trunk lid, the underside of the engine cover, or inside the first pages of the owner's manual. This sticker will have a list of options codes for your vehicle. In the US PCNA can provide this detail based on VIN. Good luck.

 

FYI: My 997.1 has 20" OZ Ultraleggera all the way around. I have yet to figure out how to measure the wheel width or offset. 295/30 in the back, 245/30 in front. 1" drop via TechArt spring kit. Looks great. Rides great. Slot car cornering. No rub. Speedo and GPS report identical MPH. I couldn't imagine going back to 18". Only regret is limited tire choice and how hard it is to clean these monster wheels!

 

What is your front wheel width and offset?

 

It looks like the poster noted that he doesn't know the width and offset of his wheels.

FYI: My 997.1 has 20" OZ Ultraleggera all the way around. I have yet to figure out how to measure the wheel width or offset. 295/30 in the back, 245/30 in front. 1" drop via TechArt spring kit. Looks great. Rides great. Slot car cornering. No rub. Speedo and GPS report identical MPH. I couldn't imagine going back to 18". Only regret is limited tire choice and how hard it is to clean these monster wheels!

Sounds like a bigger job than I expected. I am trying to grasp the value this modification would add. I am thinking that removing the seal might permit some level of inspection of the IMSB. Perhaps multiple oil analyses before and after seal removal could support the claim that the bearing gets better lubrication after seal removal... 

I must be confused about which IMSB seal is the rear IMSB seal... Since the seal of interest is described as removable I assumed it to be the seal on the clutch side of the IMSB. I don't picture oil splashing in that area. If the seal of interest is the seal on the shaft side of the bearing how would the seal be removed?

Most experts agree that the those of us with MY05 cars cannot know whether we have the small single row IMSB or the large, inaccessible IMSB--without a visual inspection (i.e drop the trans).

If I knew that I had a replaceable IMSB bearing I would spend the money on the plain bearing "Solution" in a flash.

When the clutch eventually gets done and I (probably) find out that I have the larger bearing, the suggestion is to remove (or distort) the rear IMSB seal. I don't recall anyone describing how this helps. With no pressure fed oil supply what value does removing the rear seal have?

Okee. HELLGA'S back with a new ceramic dual bearing..whoot! Clutch was good... $1700 was the best I could do around here. Most wanted 3000 ish. What a load off :)

Did you have the option of going with a plain bearing ("Solution") versus another ball bearing?

Thanks J-F!

So the hard lesson is 05,s can't really be trusted IMS-wise, even 'S's ... and watch that AT or austauschmotor designation, which will likely mean it did receive a larger single-row IMS during that replacement build or rebuild.

Forewarned is fore-armed as a potential 997 buyer!

I'm not sure what you mean by fore-armed... How many MY05 buyers have the transmission pulled as part of the PPI? If you were selling a 997 would you approve the prospective buyer having the transmission pulled in order to inspect/identify the IMS bearing?

Refund? Isn't any MY02 beyond the cut off date for any remuneration from the law suit settlement? Perhaps you are referring to some other refund. I can claim no expertise on this topic.

Me? Haven't called PCNA. What kind of process is that? And I definitely don't want to get my local dealer in any sort of trouble. They've very good to me in every other way.

Yes, I see. The dealer has been very good to you (in every other way). 

Maybe someone installed high performance pads in your car? My MY05 997's pedal is reasonably hard and does not require unusually high pressure. It has stock pads.

What did PCNA have to say when you called 1-800-porsche? 

The cardan shaft has been replaced over 50K miles ago and the noise has JUST started. I thought I had a flat tire (right rear) but when I backed off the loud pedal, the noise went away. I can see no obvious problem under the car and if I accelerate slowly, I don't get the noise. I did get under the car and there is quite a bit of movement in the center bearing of the cardan shaft (maybe quarter inch in all directions) but I am not sure if that is normal.

 

I would have suspected the center bearing except that the noise seems to be coming from the right rear wheel and NOT the front console area but I know sound can travel in strange ways.

 

My TT has done over 113000 miles and I have replaced all of the usual stuff - coolant pipes/T's, oxygen sensors, coolant tank, plug packs, brake rotors, cardan shaft (warranty by PO). She runs like a champ and goes like a scalded cat except for this latest issue. What is the opinion of this august group and if it is the cv joint, how big of a deal is it?

 

One last point, I have had a strange smell - like cat pee - which started around the time I mounted new tires. When I sniff the warm tires it isn't there. Is this coincidence or could it be wear in a joint somewhere?

 

Steve

Some brands of synthetic power steering or synthetic automatic transmission fluid smells like cat urine to me. 

The one time I experienced this (Honda, not Porsche) it was a seized cam in a plain bearing. I am not familiar with your engine... can it be safely spun with the serpentine belt removed? I would expect a seized water pump, alternator, power steering pump, etc. could manifest itself this way. 

From your description it is hard to determine whether the engine is seized (i.e. locked, frozen) or if you are experiencing high friction but the crank still can turn.

Got it. I'm good now. Thanks.

...j

Hello Loren,

When I click on "View New Content" I always get "sorry, there is no new content" in reply. This happens even when there is indeed new content. Am I doing something wrong? Maybe wrong browser (Chrome)?

...j

Old thread... Anyone running 305/30-20 on a 997 C2? My 295/30-20 are done and 305 is much more available than 295 in my area.

I have OZ "superleggera" 20" wheels fore and aft. Not sure what the rim widths are. Is there a sensible way to measure the rims widths on the car?

FYI: MY05 997.1 C2. TechArt lowered 1". I have 295/30-20 rears and 245/30-20 fronts. All Goodyear F1 Eagle. I'd buy a set of Goodyear for the rear if they were available. 

...j

                                Circumference in inches

79.95 front stock

82.22 rear stock

84.63 front yours

80.93 rear yours

You do the math!

ABS, Traction, Speedo issues…………

                                Circumference in inches

79.95 front stock

82.22 rear stock

84.63 front yours

80.93 rear yours

You do the math!

ABS, Traction, Speedo issues…………

Thanks for the numbers jl-c. If these numbers are spot on they give me the 0.75" lift in front that I need to compensate for the inch I lost with the TechArt spring lowering kit. The front of my car is plenty low--looks cool but I wouldn't want to go any lower.

...j

jl-c,

What assumptions did you make wrt stock tire model and size? I suspect there is a wee bit of difference between the standard 18" and optional 19" sizes for MY05. I would expect differences from brand to brand within a particular size.

My GPS and speedometer are in "lock step" with my 295/30x20 and 245/30x20 setup. Anyone know if speedo calibration is available via Durametric? Per jl-c's circumference numbers I would expect to see a GPS v speedo delta.

If I go to a 305/30-20 rear I think there are a few more options for me. Anyone ever run PZero Corsa for use on a street car?

I didn't think so.

I'd like to be able to delete a posting if I need/want to move it to a different forum. Is there a way? I tried editing my posting but deleting it was not an option.

MY05 C2 is lowered via TechArt and has 20" OZ superleggara all the way around. 12" in the rear and 8" in front (I think). Rim width is not stamped anywhere I can see.

My ancient Goodyear F1 are sized 295/30-20 rear and 245/30-20 in front. As expected the fronts have near zero wear while the rears are gone. I actually like the performance of the GY F1 and would have been happy to match a new set of rears with my existing healthy fronts. My tire dealer says no new F1 rears to be had.

Question: How are tires sized for aftermarket rims? The tire dealer seemed to think I should have 255/35-20 in front. With a staggered setup is there some sort of guide line?

FYI: Not many choices in my current tire sizes -- Pilot Sport ($340-380) or PZero ($400+)

...j

I think we have a mix of professional mechanics and "lay people" in these forums... Are you guys suggesting a DIY clutch job or are you suggesting I buy clutch parts to deliver to the mechanic?

I have tools for racing karts and motocross (easy access, light weight) but haven't gone beyond superficial auto repair (e.g. brake rotors, pads, starter, alternator). I have a floor jack and stands. No hoist/lift. Should I even consider doing my own clutch? 

j_beede, 

can you find out which bearing you have from your VIN? I found out that mine is a single row bearing on the class action lawsuit list.

You would think so mdragon.... I can find out if my VIN is part of the class but whether my bearing is the smaller, LN replaceable one or the larger non-replaceable style can only be determined via visual inspection for MY05 997. That requires the transmission be dropped. Might as well do the clutch while we're in there.

Thanks for that detail Julie. I am considering a new clutch even though mine is solid--if smelly--largely to find out which IMS bearing my MY05 C2 actually has.