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j_beede

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About j_beede

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • From
    NorCal
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    997.1 C2 MT6

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  1. Really old thread! My 05 997.1 C2 (DOM 2/2005) has the 996.351.425 front calipers. The pads are Textar T4045 FF (46P). Thanks to 911khc I know which pads to buy. Anyone know what the correct front sensor number is? The car is my daily driver and I am hoping to do the front brakes in a single session. I haven't done Brembo brakes before so if you know of useful tools or tricks to share, please do.
  2. Warning light says its time for brakes on my 2005 C2 MT6. 56,000 miles. Zero track time. I pulled the wheels here's what I saw: Gray Brembo calipers. Fr: 996.351.425, Rr: 996.352.421 Uneven wear at the front, both L and R. ~20% remaining on the outside pads, 40% left on the insides. ~80% remaining on all four rear pads Front pads are Textar T4045 FF (46P). Originals? No cracks observed in rotors I m pleased with brake performance in terms of initial bite, fade, and noise. If it weren't for the outer front pads I'd be good to go for another 10,000 miles or more I expect. Questions: Your thoughts re: uneven pad wear at the front I had planned to do all four corners... Any reason not to simply remove the 1.5mm "lip" on the front rotors, load fresh Textar pads and bed them in? Maybe rotary brush the rotors to clean the old pad layer off (I've seen Edd China do this). Is a fluid flush any more than an extended bleed session? I usually bleed until I see the fluid look clean(er) and clear(er). I prefer not to have to bleed the ABS. Any reason for spending $$$ for Motul fluid on a street-only car? I have no idea what fluid is in the system now.
  3. FYI: Update... I bought one of those cheap after market add-on pressure monitoring kits on Amazon. The kit consists of four thread-on transmitters and a receiver that plugs into the accessory outlet. It works well and has saved my (soft) OZ wheels a trip to the straightening shop on more than one occasion. The receiver is actually small enough that the ash tray lid just barely clears it and closes with just a little drag. It's been a great add-on for me.
  4. Stopped by a local parts retailer to pick up air and oil filters for the daily driver. WIX XP filter was on sale for $7.99 so I grabbed one. At the checkout the guy behind the counter says "this filter is for synthetic oil only". I say "that's fine". He says "okay, just want to make sure that you know that the media in this filter will shred if you top off your synthetic oil with petroleum oil". I say "um, I doubt that's true". He says "the WIX rep was here and told me so". I look over the box for a warning saying that your engine is at risk if you use this filter with petroleum-based oil. Of course there is no such warning. I put the filter back on the shelf for no particular reason--other than to make the guy's day.
  5. Plan to keep it and drive it? Targa might be for you. Plan to sell in a year or two? Targa has a smaller resale audience than coupe.
  6. Plan to take your car to the track or autoX more than twice per year? Buy PDK Like to talk on the phone, text, eat, apply makeup or shave while you drive? Buy manual and concentrate on driving Daily driver is a Prius/Leaf with "My other car is a Porsche" license plate trim ring? Tip may be best for you
  7. My MY05 C2 driver window has begun to intermittently fail to "auto up". Here are my observations: No problem with the passenger side auto up or auto down Auto down works fine on both sides Manual up works fine on both sides The problem first appeared a couple days ago... I thought I didn't lift the switch high enough at first. Second attempt activated auto up just fine The problem has worsened over the past few days. This evening multiple attempts were required to get auto up. The behavior is how I would guess a failing window switch would behave. Is window switch replacement a DIY task? Is there a separate relay to control the auto up vs. auto down function?
  8. New Pirelli PZeros mounted and now my MY05 C2 coupe has a nasty case of steering wheel shake at about 75 MPH. The tires have been balanced and re-balanced on two different machines. I had my OZ Ultraleggeras trued. I'd like to have the tires shaved but that service doesn't seem to exist in my area. I need some ideas for isolating the source of this shake.
  9. My MY05 997 is equipped with OZ Ultraleggera wheels--no TPMS. I suppose I am a contrarian in that I would like to have active pressure monitoring. The reason being that I run 25 or 30 series tires on my 20" rims and unintended reduced pressure often means wheel damage. Since my OZ wheels do not have TPMS I would expect to get a "failed transmitter" or similar warning or code. Was my car equipped with TPMS from the factory? Can I buy/add monitors to my 3rd party wheels and enable (re-enable) monitoring? Pardon my ignorance on this topic... I live in a state that does not require TPMS.
  10. Is there a part number for a space saver that will fit in the trunk of a MY05 C2 and bolt on the front and/or rear hub? I am thinking that clearing the brake rotor is the problem? I am surprised at how complicated this seems to be. I don't generally take my 997 far from home, so I suppose I could get by with a full size wheel stored in my garage.
  11. Other P-cars, and most any twin cam six have higher red lines than the 997.1. My 997.1 C2 MT is plenty fun to drive as is, but another 1000 RPM would be high on my priority list of mods. I suppose this is a question for Raby et al. What's the deal with Porsche setting or tuning the 997.1 to such a conservative red line? What would need to be done to build a proper 8500 RPM 3.6? My MY05 runs out of steam somewhere between 6200 and 6700. I'd like to feel it pull to 7500 then upshift around 8000. Maybe piston speed would be too high? Accelerated cylinder scoring from poor lubrication? Cam chain or tensioner wear? Any flat six builders out there with thoughts?
  12. Why not do Raby's "The Solution" and be done with it once and for all?
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