Marc's 911

Will get the exact details from my mechanic and let you know

F6I = Flat 6 Innovations : http://www.flat6innovations.com/ Regards, Maurice. Thank you

Thank you for your reply. I was trying to see if I could avoid going that way due to high cost of those parts. PS. Who/what is F61?

Hi Loren / everyone, could you tell me whether there are oversize crankshaft and/or connecting rod bearings suitable for a 2005 (MY2006) 3.8L (997 Series 1) engine. I am aware that genuine ones don't exist but maybe aftermarket ones.??? Your help highly appreciated. regards Marc

Thanks. Could you also tell me where the engine compartment temperature sensor is located? Item 12 in the last diagram. (BTW... 996 and 997-1 engines are the same) Hi Loren, thanks for the info. I just noticed a kind of rattling or tapping (valves or timing chain??) noise coming from my engine whilst driving with my foot just touching/feathering the accelerator (hardly no load or engine brake). As soon as you take your foot off or press the accelerator more it disappears. Could that be an IMS trouble?

Thanks. Could you also tell me where the engine compartment temperature sensor is located?

Hello, no, not the sprocket assembly but an electric actuator - camshaft (I'm using the name as per Porsche parts catalogue - p# 996 105 303 05) located on each bank next to the spark plugs. Left 1 is quite easy to get to.

Thanks. Could you also tell me where the engine compartment temperature sensor is located?

How can I check/diagnose whether the throttle is working properly since the engine stalls as described earlier?

Thanks for quick reply. After replacing the actuator to date there have been no fault codes at all but not sure whether my DME has had the TSB fix applied (I will ask at the nearest dealership). When plugs for the throttle body and MAF are disconnected then I get 2122 & 2127 error codes. Could you tell me whether any of them relate to MAF plug being disconnected? Could you also tell me where the engine compartment air temperature sensor is located?

Hi Loren, after swaping all the sensors around I finally narrowed it down to left bank actuator (camshaft) which when moved to right bank replaced the previously misfiring on cylinders 1, 2 & 3 + code P0016 with misfiring on cyl. 4, 5 & 6 + P0018. To be 100% sure I then have moved it back to it's original position on the left bank and the misfiring on cyl 4, 5 & 6 got replaced with misfiring on 1,2 & 3 (as it was originally prior to movement). When replaced with a brand new unit the all error codes (incl 0016 - correlation between cam & crankshaft) disappeared and haven't come back since. However 2 problems still remain, starter motor hardly winds the engine (but it only happens when the engine is at operating temperature) and it won't hold idle when say slowly changing gears or pressing the clutch to bring the car to a stop (9 times of of 10 it'll stall). Strangely enough if you start the car (especially when cold) it'll idle perfectly for hours until you rev the engine and let go the accelerator then it most of the time but not always stalls. I have since cleaned (wiped) the throttle body and sprayed the MAF sensor (which seemed to be very clean) with a proper spray. Does the throttle body need to be re-calibrated as is the case with some other cars? Another thing, once whilst idling (perfectly) for 2-3 hours I was watching the temperature read out (on the diagnostic tool) which over that long period of time was gradually raising and when it reached 102-103 'C the warning light located on the temperature gauge itself came on and the on-board computer displayed a message saying that the rear compartment fan isn't working or is disconnected (I had disconnected it and was aware of it) all this while my temperature gauge never showed more than 80'C. Could the temp. gauge need to be adjusted/re-calibrated or is it a faulty the coolant temp. sensor? Could you tell me which sensor (and it's location) controls the rear compartment fan as it runs for a very long period of time (after switching the ignition on) even when the engine isn't warmed up or hasn't even been started? Marc

No it's a real 1. It had played up and we're waiting for a replacement. The metal filings were stuck to the pulse sender (crank shaft sensor?) mounted at the gearbox side but not inside the engine. 1) Are the hall senders the same as camshaft position sensors (Im about to swap them around)? 2) Can the timing belts L + R be inspected / corrected (if actually jumped a notch)/ replaced without removing the engine? Marc

Hello, our Porsche tool (PIWIS) could not read the DME (it reads everything else though) so we waiting for a newer version to arrive. In the mean time we're using a different brand (will let you know the name shortly). Could the sensor itself be faulty? If so which 1 - the camshaft 1 or the crankshaft 1? - the error code says crankshaft posision. We pulled out the crankshaft sensor (location at the gearbox side??) and it was covered with lots of metal filings. Put it back in after cleaning. Is it possible that the chain jumped a notch (note, the catalytic converter that blocked up was on the same bank)? Is it possible to check/remove/refit - if necessary, the left bank's timing chain without engine removal? Marc

Hello Loren, do you have any ideas/suggestions as to the problems I have described most recently? Marc

Hello, is it possible that a pending/in-the-making IMS failure is causing this wrong crank shaft to camshaft correlation? Marc

Hello, swapped location of coils 1,2,3 with 4,5,6 and vice versa but the missfire still remains at cylinders 1,2,3 so the coils are OK. The Error Code 0016 - crank shaft position sensor (row 1, sensor A) Assigned Error?? (or something like that) is also still there. This (I think) means that that the crank shaft correlation to the camshaft is wrong. My mechanic said that a chain could be worn (it equals to it being fractionally longer) and/or it could have jumped by a notch. If that's the case it would not allow the engine to idle freely. Anyone with any suggestions?

Thank you all for the advice. As mentioned earlier besides the idle issue the engine would not crank properly and after checking cable and the state of the battery (both OK) it was decided to remove the starter motor. Out of the car it worked fine but fitted to the car would crank the engine only the first couple of tries and only when cold. Cause; loose shaft. Under load especially when hot form spining and when engine running from the engine itself the shaft would try to move of centre which in turn would make the turning much harder. Identical symptoms to a weak/dieing battery!!! I did the removal and fitting myself (at my mates workshop) so total cost for the reco was $30 (good East European prices where I'm on holidays at the moment). 1 problem fixed but the idle issue has changed into something more problematic, namely (Im translating from another language so the wording might not be exact); Error Code 0016 - crank shaft position sensor (row 1, sensor A) Assigned Error?? (or something like that), Error Code P0300 - multiple cylinder missfire Error Code P0301 Cylinder 1 missfire Error Code P0302 Cylinder 2 missfire Error Code P0303 Cylinder 3 missfire. PS. Last week after replacing (with a second hand unit) a faulty/blocked LHS catalytic converter I also changed all the spark plugs. My mechanic's (and my) diagnosis is suggesting faulty ignition coils but why so many at once? Before I order new 1's can anyone give some advice please?

Thanks for your advice. I'll do that asap.

Hi, I have recently purchased a 2005 Carrera 4S (40,000 kms/25,000 miles). After replacing a blocked LH catalytic converter the engine started fine (ECL disappeared) but after 15-20 minutes (whilst stationery) stalled and since will not idle. The only way to prevent it from stalling is to keep the accelerator depressed. Whilst in gear it drives fine but the instance the clutch is depressed and the revs drop below idle speed all warning lights come on and it stalls. At 1 stage it corrected itself but a few minutes later it happened again. What could be the cause? PS. From day 1 I noticed that the engine cranked slower than on other cars and now even with booster cables attached it has difficulties starting. After reading a lot of posts on this excellent forum I'm aware of the starter/alternator cable problem which I will attend to first thing today. Having said that, I don't think that the 2 problems are related, or could they? any advice highly appreciated Marc