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About arjay

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Profile Fields

  • From
    Coin, Spain
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    1993 964 3.6 Turbo
  • Former cars
    1989 3.3 Turbo
  1. Thanks so much for coming back to me. I can't follow your suggestion because I (stupidly) keep the security socket for my wheels in the boot - so can't get the wheel off :cursing: I keep it in there because I thought if I kept it in the car someone could steal my wheels after i have spent a fortune having the rims rebuilt/refurbished....
  2. Hi all Tough problem for me I am hoping you can help with. The boot (luggage compartment) latch release cable appears to have broken on my 1993 964 3.6 Turbo and now I have no way I know of to get in to fix it. The cable is still attached at the release leaver end inside the car below the steering wheel but is quite loose - so I have to presume it is broken at the front end somewhere. Can anyone advise how i might get into the boot? Thanks for any help you can give Richard
  3. This turned out to be a faulty R34 relay even though a lot of testing seemed to show it was OK. The full story of the efforts to test the relay, and photos of the bridging test procedure (might help newbies like me coming to this problem for the first time) are at http://forums.rennli...tml#post9418377 My thanks to all those who helped me through this in this forum. RJ
  4. Hi all I am fault testing an intermittent ABS light/alarm warning and a speedo that dies at the same time, on my 1993 964 3.6T. So far I have done the "clock repair", re-soldering all fifteen pins on the back of the clock and the five pins on the speedo for good measure. Problem is still there. Now I am testing the R34 relay by bridging pins 30 and 87. Could not reproduce the fault after 20 miles of driving (would normally happen well within that time). So it looks encouraging. My question is: is it OK to leave the bridge in permanently (when switched off over-night and also when driving for the next few days)? I need to get several good runs in before being sure it is the relay. I have to leave the bridge in when driving as the fault may not happen until after 10 minutes of starting a journey. If problem re-occurs with bridge I'll move on to speed sensors etc. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
  5. Many thanks for your helpful reply. I can't do much until Saturday but I am going to give it a go then. I'll report back what I find. Cheers Progress report and a possibly significant finding Since this is an intermittent fault, and as the light is currently not coming on (typical!), I decided to follow up troubleshooting leads from many posts on the subject. Hopefully I would find something significant. Here is what I have done so far: Brake Fluid 1) Checked level and it is exactly at MAX with engine running and a few pumps of pedal. 2) Checked and cleaned float under filler cap - moves and clicks smoothly. 3) Removed, cleaned and reseated connectors on top of filler cap. Battery Checked voltage of battery. Ignition off - 12.34V. Engine idling - 13.96V. Battery warning light is on when key is turned but goes out immediately engine starts. Does not come on when idling. Figure that's OK. ABS Power Supply The ABS system gets its supply from a second lead attached to the +ve battery terminal. Some say this can come loose, fray and/or corrode. I removed the terminal connector, cleaned the connection, checked lead was in good condition and replaced - tightening firmly. R34 Anti-lock Relay Started car up. ABS light comes on when ignition is turned but goes out a few seconds after engine starts. I removed the relay and re-started engine. ABS light stayed on and alarm sounded. Put the relay back in. Again light stayed off/no alarm when engine started. To duplicate hitting a bump: with the engine running I wiggled, lifted, pressed down on, tapped sharply, and pushed relay from side to side. It rocked quite easily but I was unable to make the light come on - i.e. connectors seem well seated. To be on the safe side I removed relay, cleaned connectors and reseated it firmly. Front wheel ABS sensors 1) Uncoupled the white front sensor connectors from the black cylinder. Tested the resistance across the terminals in each front sensor. Results: 1.044 KOhms on right front and 1.041 KOhms on left front. Unless anyone says different - I take it that the two sensors are working correctly as these figures are all but identical to each other and in the range reported elsewhere. Reports of faulty sensors state that resistance shoots up to figures like 27 KOhms or 10-30 times normal. 2) While here, I removed, cleaned and reseated the connectors for the brake wear sensors on each side. 3) Unable to remove and clean the sensor grounds on either hub. The hex nut, which holds the sensor on, and which also bolts the ground to the hub (brown lead), was well rusted and could not be moved. (same on both wheels). I did not want to end up breaking it off as has happened to OPs with same problem. If I have to change the sensors then I'll have to break them. 4) When I came to reconnect the right sensor plug I found what maybe a significant development. One of the metal tubes which forms the female side of one of the connectors (where the male plugs in) had sheared off and was lying loose in the plastic plug. It fell out when I was measuring the resistance. This "tube" should connect to a piece of metal at the back of the plastic plug but it is possible that the connection was not being made reliably - hence an intermittent fault. The first photo shows the two plugs (wear-sensor and ABS sensor). The female parts of the connectors can just be seen in the left-hand plug. The second photo shows the broken piece of the metal connector. This plug is welded to the short piece of cable and presumably is part of the ABS sensor assembly and could not be bought separately. I thought of trying to get one second-hand or otherwise repair this one but have not got much further than that yet. I jammed a bit of silver paper down the hole and forced the broken piece of tube back in - then pushed the white plug back into the male as firmly as it would go. I just can't get the abs light/alarm to come on today on a short drive. The task now I suppose is to drive the car until either the light comes back on or I presume it is temporarily fixed. (And in the meantime investigate a more permanent repair for the broken connector). Other things not yet tried: ABS Valve Unit The whole of the boot (trunk) area is immaculate on my car - not even a scrap of dust. The valve unit looks brand new and I can't spot loose or dirty connectors inside it. OPs have said that this unit does not normally cause any problems so I have left it alone. ABS Central Unit. I have yet to identify this but am going to look again and check for dirty/corroded connectors here.. Thanks for all the help people have offered.
  6. Many thanks for your helpful reply. I can't do much until Saturday but I am going to give it a go then. I'll report back what I find. Cheers
  7. Richard - thanks for your prompt reply. I was afraid of that. If you are a wizard on these things, could you help me troubleshoot my abs light/alarm problem outlined in the 964 forum about 2-3 posts down. Sorry - don't know how to insert link to a post Regards from sunny Spain arjay
  8. Richard - if you are still watching this thread. I have 1993 964 3.6 turbo. I have an Equus (Innova) OBDII that I use on my old 2001 Hyundai Accent. Is there any chance that the OBDII would diagnose anything on my Porsche if I can get the converter lead in your earlier post? I have an intermittent fault with the ABS light/buzzer that is driving me mad (see current post on this forum). Would it help with that? TIA
  9. Many thanks for replying. Sorry I was late getting back to you - not notified of a reply. I live in rural Spain and it is a very long way to any porsche garage who'd have a hammer or equivalent. Is there anything I could do to fault find by trial and error - eg, find the wheel sensors, clean them up and any grounds etc or trace with a multimeter or something?. Or is that just a needle in a haystack job? RJ
  10. Hi all. I have a 1993 964 3.6T. I have an intermittent ABS light/buzzer warning that comes on once or twice in a 30 mile trip and perhaps five times in a 100 mile trip but then not again for a dozen trips. I have read dozens of posts on several forums but still not sure exactly what I might have. Nearly all posts relate to C2 and C4 rather than any turbos I have read about and am contemplating the clock repair suggestion - see this link: 964 clock repair. Before that, can anyone help troubleshoot this set of symptoms - and advise anything less drastic to check before a "clock job". I could do the clock repairs but it is at the top end of my skills. OK: 1. Occasionally, when starting a journey first thing in the morning, the ABS light will come on after 100 yards and the buzzer will sound. Light goes off 10 seconds later - presumably when system is pressurised? 2. On a trip from Spain to Portugal (800 km) the light/ buzzer combo activated. I cancelled the buzzer but the light remained on. The buzzer then activated another 5-6 times during the trip. The light only went out after a restart at a coffee stop. Coming back on the same route I had no problems at all. 3. I was about to try the clock repair but, with no further probs for 3 months, I got cold feet. Now the problem has started again. But now, the light comes on and the speedo goes off simultaneously on about half the occasions. The computer trip also stops functioning. On the other half of faults, only the light illuminates - speedo goes on working 4. For no apparent reason, the light will also sometimes go off after another 10-15 minutes of driving and the speedo start working again - only to "die" again 30 minutes later! It is not apparently activated by hitting bumps (of which there are many in this part of Spain). I understand that the speedo gets its signal from the ABS system 5. I have an almost new battery and the alternator was replaced relatively recently (well before the ABS light problem). I am pretty sure that the brake fluid reservoir is up to the max level but will check again tomorrow as it seems to be a key factor. Thanks for any help you guys can offer
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