kamran66

Yes, I agree...I will buy one from the dealer next and see if there is any noticeable difference. 

Hi folks, I just bought a supposedly genuine Porsche AOS from ebay form a big auto parts seller "Partscontainer", the outside box is USPS priority box and the part was in a clear ziplock bag with a inkjet printed label on. It just doesn't feel right that this part would come from an OEM in that bag.....but I could be wrong. I googled the pictures of a few genuine parts and the marking matches. However, this is my second Boxster and probably 4th AOS change and I remember buying the AOS from the dealer that was in a porsche labeled plastic bag which was in cardboard box with the Porsche Genuine parts tape on it. I then went to alibaba and found several knock-off AOS, the only difference was the part where the "MHO Germany" would be stamped was blank on the chinese one. Again I maybe wrong but I feel like they are making fake parts with the all the right hallmarks of the genuine thing. Just for reference I attached the one I bought with another on ebay that comes in the box I was talking about. 

Thanks for the tips but do you think the CV joints can be ruled out since the whining is only present in gear? In other words shouldn't the CV joints be making noise weather in gear or not? If yes then this rules out all but the differential? Am I right in thinking this?

Hi folks, I just picked a 2006 Boxster, car looks and runs great except for a gear whine in 4th and 5th, it gets very noticeable at around 2700 to 3000 RPM. When I'm cruising and I step on the clutch the noise goes away, also when deaccelerating the noise diminishes. I'm wondering if it's a bad bearing on the drive shaft. I'm also thinking if it could be anything else such as the wheel bearing? Again the noise goes away when the clutch is engaged, also the whine is ver faint below 50 mph. Thanks in advance...

Thanks for the reply, I had it towed to my indy he found the one of the intake bellow looking tubes had popped out..it was hard to see I would have never figured it out.

Hello folks, my 2000 Boxster with 110K on the odometer back fired loudly and shutdown day before yesterday while I was driving @ 30 MPH. Thankfully it died on my block and I was able to push it up my drive way. I know you will probably ask me why I have not pulled the codes, well this rough idle and back firing thing had happened before and I figure it was a fouled up spark plug again. So needless to say I pulled all the plugs and changed them even found a broken plug tube on Cyl #4 which was also replaced, but no joy, cleaned the MAF also but it did not help. To clarify the last time I did this I had a hard time getting the coils tube/wire back on because some where not snapping in, however after a bit of struggle I got them in and the car ran fine. This last shutdown was weird because it happened at cruise speed, it just made a loud pop and turned off. The car turns over and starts but then back fires and runs very rough, as if 2 or more cylinders are not working...if I let off of the throttle it shuts off. So I'm not sure if it's a fuel or electric problem..(Don't even want to think about valve or cam issues right now).

PS: not sure this helps but there was a little bit of fresh oil in some of the tubes when I replaced the plugs, I changed the tubes about 4 years ago.

Amen..same here...this should be a a sticky...this happens when you disrupt the throttle engagement cycle, I guess mine happened when I was turning the ignition on and off trying to troubleshoot the window drop problem.

I was thinking the same thing...although I don' t think the motor has any switches in it..but with out knowing how that top circuit works, it's worth a try.

Hi folks, my passenger side window regulator cable broke...I found a used regulator which I installed today..everything works such as the 1/2 inch drop when the door latches are opened..the up and down travel works good also only issue is that the passenger side window does not drop when the top is unlatched...the driver side however does. I guess with the driver side working we can rule out a bad micro switch in the top latch...correct? Does anyone know what maybe causing this? Can it be a window adjustment issue? Any help is greatly appreciated.

EDIT: I changed the regulator and motor as an assembly....

Loren, once again you're spot on....good show. After changing the aformentioned parts with no effect we found a slightly loose spark plug (and I mean slightly less than 1/2 turn) on the right hand cylinder bank. No more chic...chic rubbing sound. Thanks Loren, PK and Wayne.

The belt would have been my first guess but you've done your due diligence. If not the spark plugs, I've heard the lifters in higher mileage motors can give a chirp for a bit while warming up.

You also mentioned in passing late in your paragraph white smoke. That can be a bad thing and should share top billing on your post… Speak.

Regards, PK

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Thanks Loren, PK, I will check the spark plug to see if it's the culprit...also to answer the white smoke query, I thought it was just another clue into the 4 yr old AOS failing..? it only smoked after the car was parked on the inclined ramp of a parking garage and only when the car was left parked for 2 or more days.

Regards,

Kamran

Hi folks, my Boxster developed a chriping squeaking sound a few weeks ago...so far I replaced the AOS, accessory belt and two idler pulleys with no effect. I had the car taken to a local mechanic we attempted to listen to it to pinpoint the noise but we only isolated it to the right hand side towards the front. I shook the lines and hoses from the top and when shook the AOS the sound changed, that and the white smoke led me to believe it was the AOS so I replaced it (2nd one, last changed 2005)...well needless to say NO JOY :( The "chic..chic" sound is still there, it sounds like a pulley or bearing..it's heard best during idle and when I step on the gas it can be heard getting faster up to 2000 RPM. If anyone has any ideas I'd be greatly appreciated it....

Regards,

Kamran

00 Boxster (100k club)

Hi folks, my boxster developed the same chirping sound a few weeks ago...I took it to a local mechanic and had them put it on a lift. we could not locate the problem, however I started shaking lines and tubes around and when I shook the AOS it made the sound change so I replaced the AOS...I was wrong the sound is still present. It sounds like a pulley or bearing going bad. I isolated the sound to right side and close to the front on top of the engine. If anyone can solve this mysterious sound I would be grateful.

Regards,

Kamran

00 Boxster (100K club)

Again thank you al for the info..it turned out the spaek plug tubes were leaking on the RH cylinder bank. I replaced them. The job without the improvised puller(Marine drain plug) would have been near impossible. Actually the first puller was made in china (brass one in the picture) and the rubber was too soft so it did not grip the tube, I bought another one with a harder rubber stem (black one in the picture) and I used it to remove the tube on the front of the engine that had tightest access. I took a couple of pics of the oil leak and the parts...again thanks all around.

PS: THE AOS bellow was exactly above where the leak was...so Kudos to those who said that might also be the culprit....but I failed to mention that I replaced the AOS about 2 years ago.

Thank you all for the inputs, really appreciated it...I went ahead and bought the tubes and O rings today. I will open and inspect this weekend and report back. Btw, thanks Loren for converting the file.

Hi Folks, I need help diagnosing my 2000 Boxster's oil leak, I started smelling burning oil from the RH side intake about a month ago, I took look underneath and notice the exhaust manifold behind the RH tire towards the muffler has some oil residue. I looked to see where it was coming from but it looks high up on the side of the engine. I'm trying to find out if it's the cam cover or the spark plug tubes, (I hope it's not the dreaded RMS) the plugs had oil around them too but the source looks to be higher than the plugs. Please take a look at the picture and tell me what you think...thanks in advance!

Here are two pictures of the Vertex Control arm replacement and the OEM part with the rubber boot removed. I installed one/ right side to resolve a clunking rattle. I also "did" the boxsterfarher fix but in my case it only worked for several hundred miles. I believe the swivel joint in the arm was well out of spec. Hence the nail punch fix was ineffective.

Installation was a bit harder than the OEM (which is a very easy) as the bushings in the Vertex arm do not flex (L/R) so alignment of the bolt thru the joint into the captive nut required some persuasion .,

RJG1

01 S

Nice post...please post a follow up about their relaibility..thanks.

I installed the replacement mount myself but the issue is that Cheetahonline mount uses a soft rubber bushing...the car heats up the aluminum mount and the rubber bushing slips around/out of the metal core of the mount...If you notice the OEM and Pedros mounts are potted in but this one the rubber bushing is not held in by anything..it is a design flaw in my opinion.

Well folks, the saga of the creaking/rumbling sound is finally solved (it sounded like a bad cv joint). The after market motor mount that I bought from cheetahonline failed 11 months after installation. I only replaced the rear struts, the control arms and the air injector pump, thank god I bought the pump used cause it costs 1350 bucks. Anyways it was the mount that was making that noise..the rubber grommet or cushion slipped out from around the solid aluminum core and resulted in a metal to metal contact. This was sold as a lifetime mount...sheesh, what a joke. I posted pics...do a search for cheetahonline.

What ever you do don't buy the motor mount from Cheetahonline.com, I installed one of his 11 months ago and 2 weeks ago my car developed this strange noise from the suspension that cost me 1500.00 worth of unneccessary parts and labor, finally after a saga I found out that the mount had failed. It seems the rubber bushing in the cheetahonline mount is too soft and slips out of the mount, this created metal to metal contact and rumbling sounds on turns and bumps. I replaced my rear struts and control arms thinking it was the problem, thanks to curious mechanic friend we were able to pinpoint it sound to the replaced mount. I emailed cheetahonline twice never got any answer. I picked up an OEM mount for $175.00 and had it installed for another $100.00. I took some pictures as they were removing the part....long story short buy the OEM part.

Regards,

kamran

Any news??? Please update....

Hi folks, Let me first say thank goodness for this website...I was about to pay 620.00 for a set of rear control arms (986.331.043.07) due to the worn out bushing that's making a helluva racket on turns and bumps, but found 3 alternatives to buyuing OEM.

1. Member "Boxsterfahrer" has DIY for repair of the control arm...(didn't try it but the posts indicated it works).

2. Member CJBoxster found an aftermaket adjustable control ams on Ebay...(go to ebay and do search for boxster control arms $250.00 for the pair), didn't see too much info regarding the longevity of this part..but he said it looked and felt pretty heavyduty, only draw back it's that they're adjustable so you have to adjust then install them.

3. I found a Porsche shop in miami that rebuilts the arms for 149.00 each Vertexauto.com (looks reasonable and they come with a 3 year warranty).

Here's the link: http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/128301%...rack%20Arm.aspx

Regards,

Kamran

Guys, I have a 2000 boxster and I get the same clunking sound when turning the wheel to left...I can't figure it out where it's coming from. I jacked the front of the car to check for any obvious signs of damage but no luck. The noise is very similar to the sound a worn/bad CV joint makesin turns, any help would be appreciated.

I had the same thud sound...the front engine mount was bad...I replaced it myself.