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kamran66

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About kamran66

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  • From
    miami
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2006 Boxster
  1. Thanks for the tips but do you think the CV joints can be ruled out since the whining is only present in gear? In other words shouldn't the CV joints be making noise weather in gear or not? If yes then this rules out all but the differential? Am I right in thinking this?
  2. Hi folks, I just picked a 2006 Boxster, car looks and runs great except for a gear whine in 4th and 5th, it gets very noticeable at around 2700 to 3000 RPM. When I'm cruising and I step on the clutch the noise goes away, also when deaccelerating the noise diminishes. I'm wondering if it's a bad bearing on the drive shaft. I'm also thinking if it could be anything else such as the wheel bearing? Again the noise goes away when the clutch is engaged, also the whine is ver faint below 50 mph. Thanks in advance...
  3. Thanks for the reply, I had it towed to my indy he found the one of the intake bellow looking tubes had popped out..it was hard to see I would have never figured it out.
  4. Hello folks, my 2000 Boxster with 110K on the odometer back fired loudly and shutdown day before yesterday while I was driving @ 30 MPH. Thankfully it died on my block and I was able to push it up my drive way. I know you will probably ask me why I have not pulled the codes, well this rough idle and back firing thing had happened before and I figure it was a fouled up spark plug again. So needless to say I pulled all the plugs and changed them even found a broken plug tube on Cyl #4 which was also replaced, but no joy, cleaned the MAF also but it did not help. To clarify the last time I did this I had a hard time getting the coils tube/wire back on because some where not snapping in, however after a bit of struggle I got them in and the car ran fine. This last shutdown was weird because it happened at cruise speed, it just made a loud pop and turned off. The car turns over and starts but then back fires and runs very rough, as if 2 or more cylinders are not working...if I let off of the throttle it shuts off. So I'm not sure if it's a fuel or electric problem..(Don't even want to think about valve or cam issues right now). PS: not sure this helps but there was a little bit of fresh oil in some of the tubes when I replaced the plugs, I changed the tubes about 4 years ago.
  5. Amen..same here...this should be a a sticky...this happens when you disrupt the throttle engagement cycle, I guess mine happened when I was turning the ignition on and off trying to troubleshoot the window drop problem.
  6. I was thinking the same thing...although I don' t think the motor has any switches in it..but with out knowing how that top circuit works, it's worth a try.
  7. Hi folks, my passenger side window regulator cable broke...I found a used regulator which I installed today..everything works such as the 1/2 inch drop when the door latches are opened..the up and down travel works good also only issue is that the passenger side window does not drop when the top is unlatched...the driver side however does. I guess with the driver side working we can rule out a bad micro switch in the top latch...correct? Does anyone know what maybe causing this? Can it be a window adjustment issue? Any help is greatly appreciated. EDIT: I changed the regulator and motor as an assembly....
  8. Boxster Power Steering Pump Replacement Hi, I just replaced my power steering pump and I looked everywhere for a DIY guide, the only thing I found was the tensioner pulley removal which involves removal of the power steering unit in the shop manual, which was way too vague and incomplete, I will try to do do a better job in explaining but I'm taking who ever attempts this job is mechanically inclined with that said I will skip over the obvious parts such opening the engine access panel and removing the accessory belt (make sure you loosen the power steering pulley bolts before you remove the belt, because with the belt removed it the pulley will spin in place when you try to loosen the bolts). The task begins with first draining the power steering fluid, you don't want this stuff to drain on the rubber hoses because it's very corrosive. I used an automotive turkey baster tool the kind used to test the radiator fluid in a car to remove the Pentosin in the steering reservoir tank, I loosened the two power steering lines under the car (they're under a black plastic rock guard cover on the left side of the car) to drain the fluid in the lines... be careful there are special inserts in the steering line couplings so don't lose them when you pry them apart... as a matter of fact you don't need to pry them apart just loosen them and let them drain. There is about a liter of fluid in the rack and lines that will drain (so it's good idea to have a new can of Pentosin on hand). Next from the top of the engine remove the plenum intake (see picture). this will expose the two bolts on the back of the pump, now take note the plenum piece has a couple of vacuum hoses attached to it, one from the side and one from the bottom, you might want to remember how it hooks up before you fully remove it. Now here's the fun part first you need to remove the reservoir tank on top of the pump, it's got a quarter turn nut that hold it to to the top of pump, you simply turn it a quarter turn, shake it loose and pull up. (PIA Alert @#$%) Next you'll need to remove the line on the back of the pump, there is a red compression fitting that you have to simultaneously push in the red bushing while pulling the line out. I used two flat head screw drivers on either side of it fitting while my friend pulled the line, it was in there tight but I shook it a bit and the line slid out. OK the hard part is now almost over, remember after the plenum removal above I mentioned the two bolts on the back of the pump, well the one on the RH side is easy but the LH one is blocked by the A/C compressor so you have to undo the compressor's 3 bolts (one on each side on the 3rd is accessed through the intake manifold opening (see picture) and gently push it out of the way in order to remove the LH side bolt on the back of pump. Next from inside the cabin remove the steering pump pulley (3 bolts) to gain access to the face of the pump (see picture). Now loosen the pressure line and push it out of the way, then remove the other 3 bolts on the face of the pump. the pump should be free now, so just finesse the pump out of the hole by turning it side ways, have some rags ready to catch the residual from the pump as you turn it to take it out of the hole. I hope this will help..sorry about the clarity of the whole write up and forgive me if I left something out, the write up was an after thought. Regards Kamran66 2000 Boxster 120K Miles Author kamran66 Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 02/12/2012 08:58 PM  
  9. Hi, I just replaced my power steering pump and I looked everywhere for a DIY guide, the only thing I found was the tensioner pulley removal which involves removal of the power steering unit in the shop manual, which was way too vague and incomplete, I will try to do do a better job in explaining but I'm taking who ever attempts this job is mechanically inclined with that said I will skip over the obvious parts such opening the engine access panel and removing the accessory belt (make sure you loosen the power steering pulley bolts before you remove the belt, because with the belt removed it the pulley will spin in place when you try to loosen the bolts). The task begins with first draining the power steering fluid, you don't want this stuff to drain on the rubber hoses because it's very corrosive. I used an automotive turkey baster tool the kind used to test the radiator fluid in a car to remove the Pentosin in the steering reservoir tank, I loosened the two power steering lines under the car (they're under a black plastic rock guard cover on the left side of the car) to drain the fluid in the lines... be careful there are special inserts in the steering line couplings so don't lose them when you pry them apart... as a matter of fact you don't need to pry them apart just loosen them and let them drain. There is about a liter of fluid in the rack and lines that will drain (so it's good idea to have a new can of Pentosin on hand). Next from the top of the engine remove the plenum intake (see picture). this will expose the two bolts on the back of the pump, now take note the plenum piece has a couple of vacuum hoses attached to it, one from the side and one from the bottom, you might want to remember how it hooks up before you fully remove it. Now here's the fun part first you need to remove the reservoir tank on top of the pump, it's got a quarter turn nut that hold it to to the top of pump, you simply turn it a quarter turn, shake it loose and pull up. (PIA Alert @#$%) Next you'll need to remove the line on the back of the pump, there is a red compression fitting that you have to simultaneously push in the red bushing while pulling the line out. I used two flat head screw drivers on either side of it fitting while my friend pulled the line, it was in there tight but I shook it a bit and the line slid out. OK the hard part is now almost over, remember after the plenum removal above I mentioned the two bolts on the back of the pump, well the one on the RH side is easy but the LH one is blocked by the A/C compressor so you have to undo the compressor's 3 bolts (one on each side on the 3rd is accessed through the intake manifold opening (see picture) and gently push it out of the way in order to remove the LH side bolt on the back of pump. Next from inside the cabin remove the steering pump pulley (3 bolts) to gain access to the face of the pump (see picture). Now loosen the pressure line and push it out of the way, then remove the other 3 bolts on the face of the pump. the pump should be free now, so just finesse the pump out of the hole by turning it side ways, have some rags ready to catch the residual from the pump as you turn it to take it out of the hole. I hope this will help..sorry about the clarity of the whole write up and forgive me if I left something out, the write up was an after thought. Regards Kamran66 2000 Boxster 120K Miles
  10. Loren, once again you're spot on....good show. After changing the aformentioned parts with no effect we found a slightly loose spark plug (and I mean slightly less than 1/2 turn) on the right hand cylinder bank. No more chic...chic rubbing sound. Thanks Loren, PK and Wayne.
  11. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Thanks Loren, PK, I will check the spark plug to see if it's the culprit...also to answer the white smoke query, I thought it was just another clue into the 4 yr old AOS failing..? it only smoked after the car was parked on the inclined ramp of a parking garage and only when the car was left parked for 2 or more days. Regards, Kamran
  12. Hi folks, my Boxster developed a chriping squeaking sound a few weeks ago...so far I replaced the AOS, accessory belt and two idler pulleys with no effect. I had the car taken to a local mechanic we attempted to listen to it to pinpoint the noise but we only isolated it to the right hand side towards the front. I shook the lines and hoses from the top and when shook the AOS the sound changed, that and the white smoke led me to believe it was the AOS so I replaced it (2nd one, last changed 2005)...well needless to say NO JOY :( The "chic..chic" sound is still there, it sounds like a pulley or bearing..it's heard best during idle and when I step on the gas it can be heard getting faster up to 2000 RPM. If anyone has any ideas I'd be greatly appreciated it.... Regards, Kamran 00 Boxster (100k club)
  13. Hi folks, my boxster developed the same chirping sound a few weeks ago...I took it to a local mechanic and had them put it on a lift. we could not locate the problem, however I started shaking lines and tubes around and when I shook the AOS it made the sound change so I replaced the AOS...I was wrong the sound is still present. It sounds like a pulley or bearing going bad. I isolated the sound to right side and close to the front on top of the engine. If anyone can solve this mysterious sound I would be grateful. Regards, Kamran 00 Boxster (100K club)
  14. Again thank you al for the info..it turned out the spaek plug tubes were leaking on the RH cylinder bank. I replaced them. The job without the improvised puller(Marine drain plug) would have been near impossible. Actually the first puller was made in china (brass one in the picture) and the rubber was too soft so it did not grip the tube, I bought another one with a harder rubber stem (black one in the picture) and I used it to remove the tube on the front of the engine that had tightest access. I took a couple of pics of the oil leak and the parts...again thanks all around. PS: THE AOS bellow was exactly above where the leak was...so Kudos to those who said that might also be the culprit....but I failed to mention that I replaced the AOS about 2 years ago.
  15. Thank you all for the inputs, really appreciated it...I went ahead and bought the tubes and O rings today. I will open and inspect this weekend and report back. Btw, thanks Loren for converting the file.
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