PJF

Thanks Loren. Your insight has made me feel alot better. My car is out of warranty, so I doubt Porsche would step up anyway. However, I will be taking the Durametric software and reading the DME on any future Porsche purchases. Seems like a cheap way to understand how the car was driven to me.

Loren, Does it seem possible that ther acn be that many Range 1 and Range 2 occurances and the car still be running fine. I would think over 400 instances of Range 2 would make an engine nearly disintegrate. On the contrary, my car seems to be running strong with no white smoke or RMS evidence. Without seeing these figures on my DME read-out, I would think that my engine was running fine and the car was great. These figures are just making me worried. Should I be, and what should I be looking for? Thanks for the insight, Pat

I am hoping one of you much more knowledgeable than I can tell me what the following info means from reading my ECU. I believe that Range 1 is times that the rev limiter has been hit and the last hour it happened. I believe Range 2 is the number of times the redline has been surpassed mechanically (i.e. an incorrect downshift that the rev limiter cannot stop). However, I am baffled by the numbers I am seeing. Can the below figures really mean that my car has hit the rev limiter 5677 times in only 1092 hours of operation? More troubling, has my car had the redline surpassed mechanically 449 times, the last being at operating hour 404? I recently purchased the Durametric Software and was surprised by these figures. The car has 31,500 miles and seems to run very strong. Knock on wood; I do not seem to have an RMS issue or any other mechanical problems. However, the numbers below indicate that this motor has had the crap beat out of it. I am not the first owner and this really concerns me. I would think the Range 2 violations would cause fairly immediate problems if they damaged the motor. From the figures, the motor is nearly 700 operating hours from the last violation and running strong. Also, I find it hard to believe that the rev limiter has been hit on average 5 times per hour of operation on the car. Anyway, my overriding question is should I be extremely worried that this motor has been beat terribly and will cause me problems down the road, or is the fact that it is running strong an indication that no damage has been done? I do know one thing; I wish I had the Durametric software before I bought the car last fall. I would have questioned the purchase after seeing this. If I were buying a car today, I would buy the $200 software to check any potential purchases. This info could be as important if not more so than a PPI which I had done by a Porsche dealer on this car. Of course, they said nothing regarding these figures in the PPI, so I assumed all was well. Now I am sweating. Please make some sense of this for me. I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Pat Ignitions (Range 1) 5677 / 1081h Ignitions (Range 2) 449 / 404h Operating Hours Counter 1092

I am slightly low on coolant and need to add about 1 quart. The manual says to only use Porsche authorized coolant to top the system off. However, the manual does not indicate what coolants are authorized. I am assuming it is overpriced stuff available only at the dealership. Anyway, is there any coolant that I can buy locally, Walmart, Autozone, ect, that will be fine to add? I do not want to cause any adverse reaction with the coolant Porsche has in the system, but I want to get this topped off and the dealership is closed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Pat

I installed mine last night and everything went smoothly, but when I snapped the shift rods back in I was unsure on the adjustment. You can move the shifter fore and aft which would effect where the rod falls in the carrier. I just tried to place the shifter near center and had the rod in nuetral and then snapped it in. If you have done this mod, you should know what I am talking about. I took the car out for a test drive and all gears engaged fine, but I was not going through them quickly at high power. My concern is that it seems you could place the rod in slightly off and have the shifter engaging fully in 1-3 and 5 and only part way in 2-4 and 6 or vise versa. This may cause you to pop out of gear on the partially engaged ratios or cause undue wear. I hope that this all makes sense to someone and they can tell me how to ensure that rod placement in the carrier is correct. The directions just show putting the rod back in, but there is definately an adjustment aspect to that. What if I forgot to mark them before I removed them? I know that I have read that on this forum, but last night I was reading the B & M instructions and I do not think that it said anything about marking the shaft. Anyway, now that I have forgotten that step, is there any way to make sure that I have it put back together right? As I said, it goes through all of the gears smoothly now, but I have not exposed it to any hard shifting under power like you would do at a track event. I just want to ensure that I do not have ite slightly off and cause undue wear that might result in large problems down the line. I appreciate any help anyone can give. Also, I do not need any "you should have marked them" comments. I know! I screwed up...where do I go from here?Any help would be appeciated. Thanks, Pat

Your the man! Thanks.

The CDR 210 came right out, but the CDR220 seems to big to slip back in the slot left open by the 210. Do I need a new sleeve that the radio slides in as well? I was thinking that this was a direct plug and play. Can anyone give me instructions? Thanks, Pat

Let me know what you guys think. Total cost was $540.00 to paint the 4 wheels and center caps, machine the lips of the wheels, paint a new Carrera badge and license frame for the rear in the Seal Grey from the wheels. I took them four wheels with tires mounted on Tuesday morning and picked up the finished wheels with the tires re-mounted and balanced Thursday afternoon. Overall, I think they came out great and it was $540 well spent.

I tried to take some decent pics this evening, but the lighting was horrible. I will get better ones posted tommorow.

The cost was $110 per wheel at Wheel Medic in Columbus, Ohio. As far as how long. I dropped them off on Tuesday morning and picked them up on Thursday afternoon. I worked with Bryce there. Very happ with the service and result.

After much contemplation on buying a new set of wheels, I decided to have my stock 18" Turbo Look wheels custom finshed. I went with a Porsche Seal Grey center and a machined lip. the whole wheel was then sprayed with around 5 coats of a very tough clear. I am very happy with the finished result. I will post before and after pics of my car when I get the wheels on this afternoon.

I have noticed that when I run my car especially hard that when I get out I smell a distinct oil burn smell. My car seems to have no leaks, maybe a seap from a gasket but no real spot on the floor leaking problem. Does anyone else have this same smell? Is it normal?

Thanks Loren. I was preety sure that I had it, but that post mde me wonder.

I have always thought that the TC equipped cars all came with limited slip rear ends, but now I have been told that you can have TC and not have limited slip. Is this true? I have a 7/98 build date car and have option codes 220, 222 & 224 on the under bonnet tag. Also, I have the TC switch on the console. The $100,000 question is, do I have limited slip? Also, how rare is this option? Any ideas on the percentage on MY 99 cars that were equipped this way. The link that has got me questioning all of this is here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforu...ead.php?t=24845 Just thought you may want to read all of that and see if you can make any sense of it. Also, what does a P95 Sport Chassis indicate. Is this any different than a standard 996? Thanks, Pat

The driver window in my coupe is not dropping the typical 1/4" that it should to allow easy opening and closing of the door. The window does drop slightly, about 1/8", but it still hangs up on the window gasket overhang when opening and closing. Other than that, the window works fine. I took it to the dealer to check it out and he says that I need a new window regulator to fix this problem. Overall the cost with parts and labor would be between $600-$650! Does this seem right to you? If so, is a regulator easily replaced for a weekend DIY guy? Finally, how much would the regulator cost from Brandywine/Sunset?ect? Thanks for any help you can give. Pat