tanny02996

I wish it was a more exciting story...it must have been pretty loose as it came off at about 45 MPH in 2nd gear.

Many thanks all. Appreciate the thoughtful insights.

Hi friends, while enjoying a beautiful drive through MD farm country this weekend, my emblem flew off of my hood! It seems fairly simple to replace and was planning to call Sunset today for the part but before I risk a scratch, I figured it wouldbe best to see if anyone has instructions/expereince replacing? If so, any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

-tanny02

Is anyone here using a Maxi Cosi Rodi Booster Seat? If so, could you please post a picture of it in your back seat? I'd like to see how well it fits along with the access to the seat belt receiver (sure don't want to spend the $150 for it if it does not fit well).

Thanks in advance.

-tanny02

Many thanks Loren - glad to pay $2.10 to avoid pulling out the seat.

Chuck - am sure you are right!

I removed the two Torx head screws on the driver's side of my dash board this afternoon to fix my vent control lever and dropped one of the screws - now nowhere to be found. Does anyone know the specification or part number for these? Thanks in advance.

-tanny02.

Sorry, dont know. Perhaps someone else on the board knows for certain. I am not sure if a dealer can (or would be willing to) assess this before charging for the programming. In my case, I had damaged the head so I knew i needed a new one anyway.

The head is the black part with the Porsche logo and PCB transponder inside, you can buy it from Sunset Direct or your local dealer (probably more expensive than Sunset). You can "transplant" your key blade from your old key.

I had a similar issue with one of my keys and had to buy a new head. Dealer programming was fairly reasonable at $65. I have read elsewhere on this board that they key can "go to sleep" if not used for an extended period of time, but I would think that the steps you took should have corrected the issue if that was the case.

38. Should have done it sooner...

did a quick search, try here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry56360

I recently did my clutch as part of RMS and other service, clutch parts (OEM clutch kit and dual mass flywheel, etc.) were $1850, labor is difficult for me to break out for you since there was a bunch of other service performed at the same time. My understanding is that clutch service alone can be performed in +/-6 hrs. Best of luck.

many thanks and appreciate the help as always.

Having had the IMS inspection and seal replacement performed, I can tell you that it did give me piece of mind (I chose not to upgrade the IMS). Note that the risk when working with the IMS is that you may need to reset the cam timing, which can increase the repair cost quite a bit. Good luck.

Did some searching and didn't see anything on this topic...my armest is fairly difficult to close - have to press is a very specific place to get the latch to catch. Is there a way to adjust the latch? Thanks in advance.

These are 285/30-18 HTR Z IIs. Sumitomos seem like a great value, but mine are a bit high on road noise (not that it matters with the top down though).

For what it is worth, I recently went through this same decision process when I bought my 2002 C4 Cab. I worked with a very reputable Porsche specialist who has performed the LN IMS upgrade. With his advice, we decided to inspect the bearing and if it showed no signs of wear, we would not replace it. Upon inspection, he felt it did not show meaningful wear and therefore, did not require replacement. He did however, remove the IMS bearing outer seal in order to improve oil flow around the bearing and updated the IMS cover. His ultimate counsel to me was to change the oil fairly frequently (every 5k miles or at least annually) as he felt that long oil change intervals were a major contributor (if not the leading factor) to IMS failures. One thing to note though, if you do inspect or change the IMS bearing, there is a reasonable liklihood that you will also need to reset your cam timing, which is not trivial - most mechanics will remove the engine for this (you can do the math...). Good luck with your decision.

Beginning to believe that I am experiencing the normal feel, which i am just getting used to.

Thanks all for the help!

I assume you are not getting any brake warning lights (pad wear or low fluid)?

PSM or ABS lights?

Does the pedal sink after first application?

Correct Loren, no warning lights. Yes, the pedal does sink after first application, its just a bit more firm/stiff than I would think it would be.

Well, a further review of the maintenance records revealed a fluid fluch 2k miles ago, but I flushed again to be certian...bummer, no improvement. Can you please advise as to how I go about testing the booster? Also, is this a DIY repair?

Thank again!

:renntech:

Thanks for the prompt reply Loren! This will be my first order of business. Appreciate the help.

Hi Guys, I have been lurking around here for a while and recently bought my first Porsche (2002 C4 Cab, 6 Spd). I love the car, but admittedly, have not driven it too much yet (onLy about 30 miles so far). The PPI checked out very clean with no issues needing to be addressed. However, when I picked up the car, I noticed that the brakes require more pressue than I expected. They work just fine, but again, seem to require slighy more pedal pressure than other cars I have owned. Is this typical or is this something I should dig further into? Could it be the brake booster? Thanks in advance.

Pretty impressive given how weak the UD dollar is and how much sales we represent...have to wonder if 2008 will bring a price adjustment due to the exchange rate.