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Doug_B_928

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Everything posted by Doug_B_928

  1. My 2006 C2S has a vibration during the intital high idle period at startup. I always wait for the high idle to go down to normal before driving the car. As soon as it kicks down to its normal idle the vibration is gone. The car has been like this since I've owned it, but it did seem more noticeable the last time I started it. Is this normal? If not, what could it be? There are no fault codes present. I haven't used Techron (not sure if I can get it locally) but, if I can find some, I might put it in the last tank of gas of the season before I change the oil. Additional information, in case it makes a difference: the car is a garage queen with less than 16,000kms.
  2. Not necessarily.The pulley may be silent with the belt off, but will squeal when it is loaded with the belt on. Hmmm.....interesting. Do these things sometimes happen intermittently (i.e., when loaded with belt on it still is audible only sometimes)? I guess the pulley on the front of the engine still doesn't explain why the noise would stop when I moved the gear selector from P to R or P to D, or does it?
  3. I hope you're right that it's nothing serious. If it was just a pulley one would think that the noise would be replicable when spinning them with the belt off. But the tech said that he didn't notice anything with this test.
  4. My wife's 08S has made this intermittent squeaking noise for some time. The car runs great and there are no fault codes. The car has an aftermarket warranty so I took it to the dealer for their opinion. The tech removed the drive belt and didn't find any issues, but the noise is intermittent. What I noticed on one occasion (I don't drive the car very often so I haven't been able to fiddle with it as much as I'd like) is that, when it was making the noise, if I took it out of park the noise stopped. When I put it back in park the noise started again. On that occasion I was parked on the gentle incline of a driveway (engine on the high side), if that makes any difference. So, putting a load on the driveline appeared to stop the noise. But, the noise sounds like it's coming from the front of the engine. Here is a link to a video of the noise (sorry for the poor quality; you have to listen carefully): Any thoughts on what this might be are appreciated.
  5. IIRC, on Rennlist there is a thread in which Jake Raby says that he thinks the problem is that the NA V8s have cast pistons that expand at a different rate from a very cold condition relative to the bore material. According to him, the turbos have forged pistons that do not have this problem.
  6. Thanks for the real world feedback on the rotors. For how long have you had them?
  7. Visited the stoptech website but they don't appear to have brakes for the Cayenne :(
  8. I've been thinking about the premium rotors from R1Concepts (with black hats and vents to prevent rust) and Hawk HPS pads. Anybody have any experience with these rotors?
  9. 997.1 C2S Water Pump and Coolant Procedure with Pics Attached is pdf file of a write-up that I just completed which details my recent water pump and coolant procedure. So that you will know what you will be getting if you decide to download the pdf, here is the first part of the introductory chapter and table of contents from the document. "Following the completion of my first water pump and coolant procedure on my 997 I decided to do this write-up so that I could use it the next time I do the job (hopefully not for several years). This write-up is, indeed, newbie rated and, consequently, every step is presented in great detail and the document is picture intensive. In doing my research for this procedure, I drew from a number of sources including less detailed write-ups and posts on the internet (e.g., Rennlist, Renntech, http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Flush_Coolant_System.html). While these were very helpful, I would have liked a newbie-rated write-up. So, I have decided to post my notes from the procedure in case it will be of benefit to others. Thanks to ‘JFP in PA’, Loren, ‘logray’, and ‘Dharn55’ on Renntech for their helpful advice." TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 2: PARTS, SUPPLIES, TOOLS, AND PRELIMINARY WORK Parts and Supplies Tools Preliminary Work CHAPTER 3: REMOVE UNDERBELLY PANS AND WHEEL-WELL LINERS CHAPTER 4: REMOVE AIR CLEANER HOUSING CHAPTER 5: REMOVE DRIVE BELT CHAPTER 6: DRAIN THE COOLANT CHAPTER 7: WATER PUMP AND GASKET REMOVAL CHAPTER 8: INSTALLING NEW WATER PUMP AND NEW GASKET CHAPTER 9: REFILLING COOLANT CHAPTER 10: INSTALL THE DRIVE BELT CHAPTER 11: INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER HOUSING CHAPTER 12: INSTALL THE UNDERBELLY PANS CHAPTER 13: WRAP-UP Author Doug_B_928 Category Carrera (997-1) - Maintenance Submitted 05/28/2013 05:04 PM  
  10. Attached is pdf file of a write-up that I just completed which details my recent water pump and coolant procedure. So that you will know what you will be getting if you decide to download the pdf, here is the first part of the introductory chapter and table of contents from the document. "Following the completion of my first water pump and coolant procedure on my 997 I decided to do this write-up so that I could use it the next time I do the job (hopefully not for several years). This write-up is, indeed, newbie rated and, consequently, every step is presented in great detail and the document is picture intensive. In doing my research for this procedure, I drew from a number of sources including less detailed write-ups and posts on the internet (e.g., Rennlist, Renntech, http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Flush_Coolant_System.html). While these were very helpful, I would have liked a newbie-rated write-up. So, I have decided to post my notes from the procedure in case it will be of benefit to others. Thanks to ‘JFP in PA’, Loren, ‘logray’, and ‘Dharn55’ on Renntech for their helpful advice." TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 2: PARTS, SUPPLIES, TOOLS, AND PRELIMINARY WORK Parts and Supplies Tools Preliminary Work CHAPTER 3: REMOVE UNDERBELLY PANS AND WHEEL-WELL LINERS CHAPTER 4: REMOVE AIR CLEANER HOUSING CHAPTER 5: REMOVE DRIVE BELT CHAPTER 6: DRAIN THE COOLANT CHAPTER 7: WATER PUMP AND GASKET REMOVAL CHAPTER 8: INSTALLING NEW WATER PUMP AND NEW GASKET CHAPTER 9: REFILLING COOLANT CHAPTER 10: INSTALL THE DRIVE BELT CHAPTER 11: INSTALL THE AIR CLEANER HOUSING CHAPTER 12: INSTALL THE UNDERBELLY PANS CHAPTER 13: WRAP-UP
  11. Thanks JFP. I hadn't noticed until yesterday, but the coolant in the car I believe is orangish in color. To my knowledge it was never changed (I have all of the receipts from the PO). Was the original stuff orange in 2006? If I'm going from the original to the new pink stuff, do I need to flush or can it be mixed (5% old and 95% new)?
  12. When you change the coolant on a 997, do you do a flush with water or some other solution before putting in the new coolant?
  13. Just realized that I didn't follow up on this. Turns out that the button not working was a loose ground. I guessed that becuase I had also noticed that the left side marker would sometimes not work after washing the car. When I looked on the wiring diagram the side marker and button for the rear hatch shared the same ground. Problem has not come back since.
  14. There's a button in the vicinity of the garage opener labeled "p". It lights when you press it to remind you the sensors are deactivated.
  15. Yep. I just shut off the sensors when that happens. When you start the car next time the sensors will be on so no worries about forgetting to turn them back on.
  16. I've noticed similar behaviour when it's snowing. I think the snow flakes are detected by the sensors.
  17. Usually the 4th number is the year. So a 78 would be 9288... The vin you provide also seems to have one number more than normal for an early 928. My suggestion is to post your query on the 928 subforum on rennlist as well and you'll get a definitive answer quickly. In particular, you could PM a rennlister named jadz928 (Jim Doer). He owns some preproduction press cars and is familiar with very early vins.
  18. There are some very good parts suppliers than can get just about anything you need for a 928. They are wonderful cars. I'll never sell mine. But, you really need to be one (like you sound like you are given your post) who is willing to do much of your own work on the car. Unless, that is, you live in an area that happens to have a mechanic that specializes in 928s. As mentioned above, there is a large group of 928 owners and the number of DIY write-ups are growing. For example, there are excellent write-ups with pics for the timing belt and associated while you are at it jobs on the net.
  19. Great to know, thanks! Oddly, I checked it this morning after sitting all night and the level is essentially on the max mark. Very strange, but a happy surprise.
  20. I changed the the oil and filter in my 08S last weekend. After the initial fill, I ran the motor and then checked the level again, and it went down quite a bit. So, I topped up to max. I just checked the level and it is about 1/8th of an inch over the max line. It had been a couple of hours since it had been run. So, I started the car, let it run for a minute, then checked again and the level was about 1/8th" below the max line. So, I'm wondering if I should remove the filter housing to release that amount of oil and see if that does the trick to get it to the max on a cold check, or is it okay as it is? TIA
  21. It's an 08 S. Do you think the battery would cause that door switch not to work? The durametric measures battery voltage, and, IIRC, I think it was giving 12V.
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