vette67

Well, the new gas didn't help and I've been travelling, so she has been sitting dead in the garage for another several months but I did get a new crank sensor, fuel pump relay to install if necessary.  I'll be home this weekend and need to put in a new battery and check again to see if the tach needle moves at all when I'm cranking.  If it does, then I'm going to listen very carefully for the fuel pump.  If no sound then I'll jumper the relay and try again.  If none of that works I'll check for 12 volts at the pump and get a new one if necessary.  Found a great youtube video on how to DIY replace it... doesn't look too hard. 

I'll let you guys know how this is going.  Thanks again for your help.

On 2/21/2014 at 1:04 PM, casperlabs said:

When ever you get a crank with no start condition, please remember there are a couple somewhat unique design features to these cars. First, the Bosch ECU does not turn on the fuel pump relay (never) unless it is getting pulses from the crank position sensor. This means, if the engine is not turning under crank or run conditions, there is no fuel pressure. This is intended to help prevent engine fires. So, if the engine will not start, you have to do the old fashioned check for fuel and ignition. Since these cars do not have fuel pressure sensors, the OBD will not be any help here. Pull the FP relay and jumper the pins with the ignition off.

Remove the fuel cap and have someone turn the ignition on (not crank) while you listen at the filler neck, If you hear the pump run continuously , the pump is probably fine, but you still have to do a pressure check at the engine fuel rail to verify actual pressure meets spec. for a complete check of the fuel delivery.

If the pump does not run, leave the relay jumper in place and check for 12v at the pump elec connector under the battery.

No voltage there means a wiring problem. These pumps often fail to spin intermittently on a start-up before they quit completely. So if you get it restarted , don't shut it down until you are home.

If the pump checks out, pull a spark plug connector and check for spark with a clean plug and everything properly grounded. If there is no spark, the problem is likely the crank or a cam sensor. You will have to go the manuals for this procedure.

While on the subject of fuel pumps, it is interesting to note the early 986/996 use the same pump as millions of VW's and Audis going back to 1993. While the pn's may vary (often because they are sold with the sender) the pump is the same unit.

Examination of the performance specs is so close, it makes no difference to the engine. Phycical examination with a vernier down to the detail part level cannot find any difference at all . The pump you want is the Airtex equivalent of their pn E8366. These can be shopped for as little as $50 (as opposed to $300 for a VDO), or a salvage yard find if your budget is challenged. When you pull the top off the old pump assembly, you will find the classic alum can turbine fuel pump inside. About the size of a roll of 50 cent pieces. Nothing special.

Pelican parts has a good article on FP replacement (with the exception of chiseling off the retaining ring). Get or make a tool for this, it will save a lot damaged hardware, cost, delay, and a possibly dangerous hazzard. .

Bill Ryan

Casper Labs

Thanks Bill, your post helps a lot.  Old thread, but still valid.  BTW, Volkswagen alternators also fit into the 996 at a fraction of the cost of OEM.  It's been a long time since I've posted since I've basically had my MY 2000 996 cab-4 garaged for the past several years.  I would crank it occasionally but haven't driven it much at all.  Now I have a "crank no start" situation.  There is no CEL and no fault codes.  The battery is good.  I have a 1/2 tank of old gas in it and my first thought is that it's bad gas.  I put a whole can of seafoam in it and it still wont start.  I intend to fill it the rest of the way up with fresh hi-octane fuel and try again.  Meanwhile I am researching what my troubleshooting path should be.  If the new gas doesn't work, I'll jumper the fuel pump to make sure it's working.  I sure hope I do not have to pull a spark plug to check for spark though, because it sounds like I would have to jack the car up and drop a muffler to get to a spark plug (or maybe there is at least one easily accessible plug on the 996... I'll have to check).

Hi Julian,

Not sure how helpful this is, but seeing as how nobody else has tried to answer you I'll try.  I also have a MY 2000 996 CAB4 and would love to replace the plastic rear window with glass.  The last time I check, which has been quite awhile ago, the only option was to get a third-party replacement top... Porsche did not offer a rag top with glass that would fit the MY 2000 996.

I was on autotrader.com last night. If I remember correctly, there are 9 2003 Carreras advertised in autotrader in Atlanta currently. Average asking price is $35K. Average mileage is 45K.

I wouldnt pay a 10K premium for a car with low mileage.

PS. I thought the RMS issue was resolved before the MY2003 cars were built?

A buddy of mine took me for a spin in his C2 and the acceleration in that lighter car was dramatically better than my MY 2000 Cab 4. I love my car and have had a lot of fun (mostly) doing my own maintenance thanks in large part to the excellent info on this site. Ive tried to post my share and give back as much as I can too. Now I'm thinking about selling it and getting a newer, wide-body. Then I realized... I have never sold a car to anybody in my life! I've always traded in.

I know a lot of you find selling and buying cars as easy as breathing. A few tips from your own experience like do you let the person (total stranger) drive it themselves to take it for a PPI would be a great help. Anything you can share about selling a P car would be totally appreciated.

Thanks.

Did you take the airbox out?

I just went thru this DIY and got the part about removing the alternator. I have it loose, but it only swings up (clockwise) a short way before hitting the underside of the intake mainifold. I removed all the other brackets, lines, connectors, etc. that are in the way, but there's no way it will clear the bracket to slide out. Any ideas? Thanks.

I bought Autoenginuity software for my 1998 Boxster. It never worked. Autoenginuity could only suggest I used an earlier version of their software with less features. This did not work either. It showed faults like no modules were connected for things like the central locking (whcih was working perfectly). They then said as my car was not a North Amercian car it wasnt OBD compliant and the software wouldnt work anyway. I sent the plug back and they refused to refund me. They said it was my fault as I should have known this, and refused to honour tier warranty.

However the features not working were the non obd ones! Their support is almost non existent and they are extremely arrogant. Definitely not a compnay to do business with.

Durametric uses the Porsche protocols to communicate and hence works properly.

Yes, that was exactly my impression of AutoEnginuity too. They treat you like an idiot. I've still got their $$$ paperweight. I gave it to my brother (a BMW and Porsche mechanic) and he couldnt get it working either. It obviously has a bad cable. But AutoEnginuity refuses to do anything about it and cops an attitude like they are doing me a favor by answering the phone. I think I'll file a BBB complaint on them Monday. Avoid this company like the plague.

Ok, since nobody bothered to reply I thought I'd post what I ended up paying for the OEM pads from Sunset.

996-352-949-03 rear $120.57

996-352-939-03 front $91.52

I got a recent quote from Sunset for my 2000 Cab4 rotors for $112 ea (front) and $100 ea (rear) plus $70 shipping.

I didnt ask about the pads, I was thinking of Hawks maybe. Anybody know what the stock pads cost?

Go to the Sunset Porsche Link under "Special Offers" (at the top of this page) and call them. Tell them to give you a price for all the components to do your brakes. Rotors , pads, caliper bolts, shims, Etc.

See what price they give you. OEM rotors are about $119 a piece for the fronts.

Phiilipj

Jeff, So sorry to have missed your question. Loren told me that I probably wouldnt need to worry about bleeding the ABS. How did your painting project work out?

So, is the bleeding procedure incompletely done if the ABS pump is not bled? Does the car have to go to the dealer anyway, to hook it to the PIWIS for ABS bleed? If the ABS has to be bled, any way to do it without the dealer or a PIWIS?

Most dealers do not both to bleed the ABS unless the system has been open (i.e. lines or components replaced).

I have a PST (and PIWIS) and and I usually do not bleed the ABS on my own car.

Uh oh, I've got my wheels off now and about to replace my brake lines with braided DOT approved stainless lines (Pelican parts). From your post it sounds like I am going to need to take the car to the stealer for the ABS bleed if I replace the brake lines. True?

Jeff.....did you get an answer to your question? I'm going to take the four Calipers off and paint them so I need to know if I will need to take my car to the Dealer? I guess the main question is - What will happen if one takes a part off of the brake system and then bleeds everything except the ABS system??? Thanks, in advance, for any input.Jeff

BTW, these Pelican parts are supposed to be for 996 but they are all the same length and from just eyeballing them they look too long for the rear brake lines (and Ive got a MY '00 Cab4... wonder if my rear lines are shorter than a regular C2?). Anybody done this mod before? Comments?

Hi Loren,

Is it necessary to get the repair kit (bolt, expanding spring, securing clip), damping plate, warning contact, etc?

Can I just replace the pads and re-use everything else?

Thanks!

Well it is up to you.

We suggest the dampers but I've heard of folks reusing them - worst case you will have some squeal.

If the sensors turned on the brake pad light then one or more of them will have to be replaced (or jumpered).

You would need to look a the pin and spring to see if they are worn.

I just did my front brake pads today but forgot to get new dampers.

I seperated the dampers from the old pads and left them in the caliper. I was betting on them sticking to the new pads once they are under pressure.

I drove aound the block and I can hear the pads (or something) constantly (lightly) rubbing. I also get some occasional squeal when braking. Hopefully after 150 miles or so the pads will be bedded in and the noise will go away.

Did the noise go away? Also, did anyone determine if there is a recommended glue to use to reattach the dampers to the pads? The backs a pretty cheap to replace, but the fronts are a little pricey. I have squeal, and I am trying to determine if it will go away, can be secured or do I need to just pony up and swap the dampers :D

TDK

TDK, I'm very sorry to have missed your question. No, the noise did not go away. What I did was get some $5 "anti-squeal" spray from the local auto parts store. This stuff is actually a strong, spray-on adhesive. I pulled my pads and dampers and re-attached them with the spray. Problem solved.

I was actually taking pictures to do a DIY on this but I messed up the job so badly that I didn't want to post it.

What I learned:

1- I got my paint from the dealer. Price differences seemed to be unimportant compared to getting the paint color dead perfect (I've got ocean blue metallic)

2- Porsche (and others) will tell you to use the paint first and then to finish with clear-coat. DONT DO IT. The clearcoat is some kind of plasticized polymer... it doesnt sand well at ALL. Its much harder than the paint... you end up scratching the hell out of your surrounding paint trying to sand down the clearcoat spots. Yes, theoretically you could mask the surrounding paint but when you are touching up 395 small chips in your hood then masking is problematic.

3- Best method is to apply a dot of paint to each chip using a toothpick or a tiny brush from art supply. The brush that comes on the paint cap is monstrously too large.

4- Do not try to fill up each chip with paint the first time you work on them. Apply one dot, let dry 8+ hours, repeat the process until the chip is filled and (if you're lucky) level with the surface of your hood. If it is slightly higher that's ok because in the next step you will sand it.

5- Get yourself a very fine grit "sanding block". I had a hard time finding one and I apologize because Ive forgotten the source and the actual grit of the one I got. Its been awhile and the packaging is long gone. I think it was 1000 grit and was made by Meguire. It cost about $30. Use the (wet) sanding block to lightly smooth the tops of your touchup dots even with your hood. This will produce fine scratches.

6- Use a quality random orbital buffer (I use Griot's) to polish the fine scratches out. Then wax.

Im still trying to get the touchup paint even with the hood... because the clearcoat is a nightmare to sand. That being said, my car still looks better than it did and eventually Ill get everything perfect. I could have saved myself a lot of trouble and actually be done with this project if I had skipped the clearcoat. Once you polish and wax the touchup paint you do not need clearcoat anyway.

Hope this helps somebody! :)

What a royal PITA these keys are... and the lengths that we will go to in order to avoid paying $250 for a new, functional key. Its a ripoff, for sure.

I have one functional key and one dead one. The dead one has a dead battery. I have always assumed that since it has been dead for over 3 years that it will have to be reprogrammed whenever I get around to replacing the battery. Right? After reading all of your posts, now Im not even sure if it will ever work!

FYI, I recently bought a new key from Sunset.

996-637-243-01 "Handsender" $108.70

996-538-531-00 Blank Key 16.25

The handsender definitely has the "guts" in it and a battery. When you press it, the red light blinks.

I probably could re-use one of my old keys (the metal part) in the new handsender to save the $16 (and whatever I end up paying to have it CUT... dont tell me, let me guess: $996?).

Of course now I still have to get that handsender programmed (1 hour labor = $90-$125)

This is just a silly amount of money for a frikkin key. Only reason I'm doing it is because I thought it would be nice to have a nice, shiny new key for when I am ready to sell the car.

If anybody actually gets their old keys with new batteries to work without paying for a re-programming please post the info.

Ouch! Bad news! Be sure you arent running up a huge bill at the "stealer" for storing your car while you look for a decent tranny shop.

One of my vehicles (not the porsche) has an iffy transmission and Ive thought about what I would do if it decided to go out on me while I'm on the road. My insurance will pay to have it towed to the nearest dealer, or anywhere else as long is it is the same distance or less as to the nearest dealer. I definately do NOT want to take it to the dealer for the very reason you have discovered. So Im considering getting a $60 annual AAA membership because Ive heard that they will tow up to 100 miles free. I'd want to get my car back to the house until I find the tranny shop I want to deal with. Then I can get AAA to tow it to that shop from my house for free. That's the plan anyway.

I havent had much luck on this site getting tips for the best local shops. Hope you have better luck. Have you considered one of those warehouse-style tuner stores out there? Ive heard there are places that will sell you good mods like Pss10s, racing components, tires, etc and are actually pretty good at working on Porsches. Sorry I cant be more specific... its just something Ive heard and I live in Atlanta so there's been no need for me to really follow up on it.

Let us know how it works out?

The first thing that I would check would be the hydrolic fluid in the convertible top's pump. I saw a topic on that somewhere on this site in the past, so if you do a seach for it you should find it.

My convertible top had a whining noise coming maybe from the motor today when I pulled it back up. It stopped in the middle but I was able to get it back again after a few tries. Has anybody had this problem before?

Kristian

New Years Eve: Mercedes smacked my wifes car in the rear at a stop light. Looks like maybe just some touch-up paint, sanding and polishing to fix. Anybody recommend a good paint or body shop in the North Atlanta area for this?

Thanks and Happy New Year

I own a 2000 carrera and I need to chamge brake pads...front and back :renntech: ...do you need to replace rotors as well?

how do you replace the pads and rotors.

thanks,

You probably dont need rotors, or if you do it will only be the fronts. Last time I did the brakes on my 2000 I bought rotors too, and ended up not needing them. Dumb.

Porsche designed our cars to allow quick and easy brake pad replacement. Its the easiest process Ive ever done on any car Ive ever owned!

Get real familiar with the "search" function on this site. You will find ample info on how to replace your pads and a lot of other stuff too.

You should get a micrometer (like $8 at harborfreight.com) to measure your rotor thickness. Loren has posted the minimum thicknesses on this site. Note that the tolerances are different between front and back rotors. I mention that specifically because the actual Porsche Shop manual is confusing on this issue.

When you get your replacement pads, be sure to get some "anti-squeal" product from any auto parts store. This stuff is sometimes referred to as a lubricant, but in reality it is an adhesive. It comes in spray or gel. Use it liberally on the backs of your new pads to ensure that your old anti-squeal pads stick firmly to them. Unless your old anti-squeal pads are worn out (never seen that happen), you will not need to waste money on new ones. Just get new pads. And, unless youve been tracking your car, you may only need new front pads. Use your new micrometer to measure your pad thicknesses front and back. Refer to this site for the minimum thicknesses.

There are many choices for new pads. Unless you want to chew through rotors regularly, I recommend sticking to OEM pads.

Hope this helps you out. If you have any trouble, feel free to PM me.

Congrats!

Hi Loren,

Is it necessary to get the repair kit (bolt, expanding spring, securing clip), damping plate, warning contact, etc?

Can I just replace the pads and re-use everything else?

Thanks!

Well it is up to you.

We suggest the dampers but I've heard of folks reusing them - worst case you will have some squeal.

If the sensors turned on the brake pad light then one or more of them will have to be replaced (or jumpered).

You would need to look a the pin and spring to see if they are worn.

I just did my front brake pads today but forgot to get new dampers.

I seperated the dampers from the old pads and left them in the caliper. I was betting on them sticking to the new pads once they are under pressure.

I drove aound the block and I can hear the pads (or something) constantly (lightly) rubbing. I also get some occasional squeal when braking. Hopefully after 150 miles or so the pads will be bedded in and the noise will go away.

Hey Pete

This sounds like one of the known issues with the '99 996 where there are problems with the expansion tank. Use the search function to verify or eliminate.

Jeff

Evening all.

My wife has a '99 996 Cabrio. I noticed the other day what I thought was an oil leak, the oil dropping to the left of the car at the rear (when viewed from behind) directly under the exhaust tip.

Further investigation reveals it to be water that's picked up dirt on its way through the engine bay (hence my thinking it was oil).

I've looked under the engine cover, and can see dampness high on the left hand side - there's quite a few pipes up there around the expansion tank area, but I can't work out just where the water's coming from. Any ideas anyone....what lurks up there?! :rolleyes:

Pete

1. LOL... normally brake don't need replacing - but the procedure is pretty simple.And, yes bleeding is required.

2. I do not know what Pelican sells - but I don't htink they are Porsche SS brake lines. Those are available from Porsche MotorSport for and arm and a leg.

I personally do not like SS brake lines on street cars because they tend to unscrew themselves. On race cars they check the fitting every race (and if they don't tech inspection does). Most folks driving around on the street forget about them until they have a leak or worse. JMHO.

3. If you are only replacing the brake lines that is all after the PSM/ABS so I don't think you will need to use a PST2 or PIWIS to run the ABS pump.

I know, I read your previous posts about these things working their way loose. Maybe a little thread-lock would solve that for me, maybe. So re: the procedure for changing the brake lines. Do I just unscrew the old ones, plug the hose to keep brake fluid from spraying into my beer, screw in the new ones and then bleed the brakes as normal?

Thanks

Jeff

Loren,

I bought the DOT approved braided stainless steel brake lines for 996 / 986 from Pelican Parts a couple of years ago and never got around to installing them. I'm now in the process of replacing pads and rotors and thought it would be a good time to go ahead and replace the brake lines.

Now that I've got the wheels off I notice that the pelican parts do not resemble the oem parts at all. Maybe this is not a problem, but I have checked all the posts on renntech and cant find anybody who has actually done this mod, so I thought I would check with you before I started pulling things apart.

1) I've checked the Porsche Shop Manual and find plenty of info on replacing the pads, rotors and bleeding but nothing on how to replace the brake lines. Is there a procedure I should follow?

2) The pelican hoses are all the same length, even though my rear wheels appear to have a much shorter hose than the fronts. This makes me wonder whether I got the right parts. At the time I bought them, Pelican did not offer any different part for the MY '00 CAB-4. Their lines are supposed to fit any 996 or 986, but it does make me wonder. Does this sound like a problem?

3) I'm clear that even though the official procedure for brake bleeding for a PSM-equipped car like mine is to finish the job with the PS2 ABS bleed process, most people dont bother. But since I am going to replace these hoses is that going to require me to take the car to the stealer for the PS2 procedure?

As always, I appreciate your advice.

Cheers,

Jeff

Richard,

You could alternate between blue and gold ATE fluid when you do your bleeds. That way you'll know for sure when your new fluid makes it to your calipers.

Jeff

Hi ..

I've done this a few times now with success but does anybody know the actual amounts required to flush each section of the pipework / calipers ?

I have used about 1L in the past but this time I got a lot more out the resevoir to start - so ended up using 1.5L as folows :-

1. 500mL : Extracted from the resevoir before starting (using a syringe and length of plastic pipe to suck out as much as I could via the small holes after taking out the filter)

2. 150mL : Rear Left, Inside Nipple

3. 150mL : Rear Left, Ouside Nipple

4. 150mL : Rear Right, Inside Nipple

5. 150mL : Rear Right, Outside Nipple

6. 100mL : Clutch

7. 75mL : Front Left, Inside Nipple

8. 75mL : Front Left, Ouside Nipple

9. 75mL : Front Right, Inside Nipple

10. 75mL : Front Right, Outside Nipple

The reason I went with only 150mL for the each front is because that's all I had left ! :(

Do you think this is enough ? Should I get another 500mL and do the fronts again ?

The brake pedal feels excellent now but I'm concerned I've just pushed the old fluid into the calipar (fronts) and the fresh fluid is in the pipework ...

PS - This is Motul RBF660 for tracking (taking her on the Nurburgring again in a few weeks ..) so keen to have optimal brakes !

Thanks all,

Richard.

So, is the bleeding procedure incompletely done if the ABS pump is not bled? Does the car have to go to the dealer anyway, to hook it to the PIWIS for ABS bleed? If the ABS has to be bled, any way to do it without the dealer or a PIWIS?

Most dealers do not both to bleed the ABS unless the system has been open (i.e. lines or components replaced).

I have a PST (and PIWIS) and and I usually do not bleed the ABS on my own car.

Uh oh, I've got my wheels off now and about to replace my brake lines with braided DOT approved stainless lines (Pelican parts). From your post it sounds like I am going to need to take the car to the stealer for the ABS bleed if I replace the brake lines. True?

Jeff

BTW, these Pelican parts are supposed to be for 996 but they are all the same length and from just eyeballing them they look too long for the rear brake lines (and Ive got a MY '00 Cab4... wonder if my rear lines are shorter than a regular C2?). Anybody done this mod before? Comments?

I got a recent quote from Sunset for my 2000 Cab4 rotors for $112 ea (front) and $100 ea (rear) plus $70 shipping.

I didnt ask about the pads, I was thinking of Hawks maybe. Anybody know what the stock pads cost?

Go to the Sunset Porsche Link under "Special Offers" (at the top of this page) and call them. Tell them to give you a price for all the components to do your brakes. Rotors , pads, caliper bolts, shims, Etc.

See what price they give you. OEM rotors are about $119 a piece for the fronts.

Phiilipj

American Lemans series 12 hr Sebring race, Porsche RS Spyder under the Roger Penske team won the 12hrs of Sebring without a glitch. Not only did they win their class LMP2 ,but out did the LMP1 class with Audi turbo diesel, and Peaugot turbo diesel and finshed 1st overall! Great race great weather.

GT2 class had Porsche running all day even after a few run ins with the wall!

Impressive! I didnt think anything could ever beat those audi turbo diesels.

Did you you read the warning note in the Owners Manual?

I havent read the manual in awhile. Have I done something stupid? It wouldnt be the first time. I've definately let my tank get below 1/4 if that is what you mean.