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About vette67

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Atlanta, GA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 996 Cab 4
    Fabspeed Cold Air Box
    B&M SSK
  • Future cars
    '04 997 Cab 4S widebody

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630 profile views
  1. Well, the new gas didn't help and I've been travelling, so she has been sitting dead in the garage for another several months but I did get a new crank sensor, fuel pump relay to install if necessary. I'll be home this weekend and need to put in a new battery and check again to see if the tach needle moves at all when I'm cranking. If it does, then I'm going to listen very carefully for the fuel pump. If no sound then I'll jumper the relay and try again. If none of that works I'll check for 12 volts at the pump and get a new one if necessary. Found a great youtube video on how to DIY replace it... doesn't look too hard. I'll let you guys know how this is going. Thanks again for your help.
  2. Thanks Bill, your post helps a lot. Old thread, but still valid. BTW, Volkswagen alternators also fit into the 996 at a fraction of the cost of OEM. It's been a long time since I've posted since I've basically had my MY 2000 996 cab-4 garaged for the past several years. I would crank it occasionally but haven't driven it much at all. Now I have a "crank no start" situation. There is no CEL and no fault codes. The battery is good. I have a 1/2 tank of old gas in it and my first thought is that it's bad gas. I put a whole can of seafoam in it and it still wont start. I intend to fill it the rest of the way up with fresh hi-octane fuel and try again. Meanwhile I am researching what my troubleshooting path should be. If the new gas doesn't work, I'll jumper the fuel pump to make sure it's working. I sure hope I do not have to pull a spark plug to check for spark though, because it sounds like I would have to jack the car up and drop a muffler to get to a spark plug (or maybe there is at least one easily accessible plug on the 996... I'll have to check).
  3. Hi Julian, Not sure how helpful this is, but seeing as how nobody else has tried to answer you I'll try. I also have a MY 2000 996 CAB4 and would love to replace the plastic rear window with glass. The last time I check, which has been quite awhile ago, the only option was to get a third-party replacement top... Porsche did not offer a rag top with glass that would fit the MY 2000 996.
  4. I was on autotrader.com last night. If I remember correctly, there are 9 2003 Carreras advertised in autotrader in Atlanta currently. Average asking price is $35K. Average mileage is 45K. I wouldnt pay a 10K premium for a car with low mileage. PS. I thought the RMS issue was resolved before the MY2003 cars were built?
  5. A buddy of mine took me for a spin in his C2 and the acceleration in that lighter car was dramatically better than my MY 2000 Cab 4. I love my car and have had a lot of fun (mostly) doing my own maintenance thanks in large part to the excellent info on this site. Ive tried to post my share and give back as much as I can too. Now I'm thinking about selling it and getting a newer, wide-body. Then I realized... I have never sold a car to anybody in my life! I've always traded in. I know a lot of you find selling and buying cars as easy as breathing. A few tips from your own experience like do you let the person (total stranger) drive it themselves to take it for a PPI would be a great help. Anything you can share about selling a P car would be totally appreciated. Thanks.
  6. Yes, that was exactly my impression of AutoEnginuity too. They treat you like an idiot. I've still got their $$$ paperweight. I gave it to my brother (a BMW and Porsche mechanic) and he couldnt get it working either. It obviously has a bad cable. But AutoEnginuity refuses to do anything about it and cops an attitude like they are doing me a favor by answering the phone. I think I'll file a BBB complaint on them Monday. Avoid this company like the plague.
  7. Ok, since nobody bothered to reply I thought I'd post what I ended up paying for the OEM pads from Sunset. 996-352-949-03 rear $120.57 996-352-939-03 front $91.52
  8. Jeff, So sorry to have missed your question. Loren told me that I probably wouldnt need to worry about bleeding the ABS. How did your painting project work out? Most dealers do not both to bleed the ABS unless the system has been open (i.e. lines or components replaced). I have a PST (and PIWIS) and and I usually do not bleed the ABS on my own car. Uh oh, I've got my wheels off now and about to replace my brake lines with braided DOT approved stainless lines (Pelican parts). From your post it sounds like I am going to need to take the car to the stealer for the ABS bleed if I replace the brake lines. True? Jeff.....did you get an answer to your question? I'm going to take the four Calipers off and paint them so I need to know if I will need to take my car to the Dealer? I guess the main question is - What will happen if one takes a part off of the brake system and then bleeds everything except the ABS system??? Thanks, in advance, for any input.Jeff BTW, these Pelican parts are supposed to be for 996 but they are all the same length and from just eyeballing them they look too long for the rear brake lines (and Ive got a MY '00 Cab4... wonder if my rear lines are shorter than a regular C2?). Anybody done this mod before? Comments?
  9. Well it is up to you. We suggest the dampers but I've heard of folks reusing them - worst case you will have some squeal. If the sensors turned on the brake pad light then one or more of them will have to be replaced (or jumpered). You would need to look a the pin and spring to see if they are worn. I just did my front brake pads today but forgot to get new dampers. I seperated the dampers from the old pads and left them in the caliper. I was betting on them sticking to the new pads once they are under pressure. I drove aound the block and I can hear the pads (or something) constantly (lightly) rubbing. I also get some occasional squeal when braking. Hopefully after 150 miles or so the pads will be bedded in and the noise will go away. Did the noise go away? Also, did anyone determine if there is a recommended glue to use to reattach the dampers to the pads? The backs a pretty cheap to replace, but the fronts are a little pricey. I have squeal, and I am trying to determine if it will go away, can be secured or do I need to just pony up and swap the dampers :D TDK TDK, I'm very sorry to have missed your question. No, the noise did not go away. What I did was get some $5 "anti-squeal" spray from the local auto parts store. This stuff is actually a strong, spray-on adhesive. I pulled my pads and dampers and re-attached them with the spray. Problem solved.
  10. I was actually taking pictures to do a DIY on this but I messed up the job so badly that I didn't want to post it. What I learned: 1- I got my paint from the dealer. Price differences seemed to be unimportant compared to getting the paint color dead perfect (I've got ocean blue metallic) 2- Porsche (and others) will tell you to use the paint first and then to finish with clear-coat. DONT DO IT. The clearcoat is some kind of plasticized polymer... it doesnt sand well at ALL. Its much harder than the paint... you end up scratching the hell out of your surrounding paint trying to sand down the clearcoat spots. Yes, theoretically you could mask the surrounding paint but when you are touching up 395 small chips in your hood then masking is problematic. 3- Best method is to apply a dot of paint to each chip using a toothpick or a tiny brush from art supply. The brush that comes on the paint cap is monstrously too large. 4- Do not try to fill up each chip with paint the first time you work on them. Apply one dot, let dry 8+ hours, repeat the process until the chip is filled and (if you're lucky) level with the surface of your hood. If it is slightly higher that's ok because in the next step you will sand it. 5- Get yourself a very fine grit "sanding block". I had a hard time finding one and I apologize because Ive forgotten the source and the actual grit of the one I got. Its been awhile and the packaging is long gone. I think it was 1000 grit and was made by Meguire. It cost about $30. Use the (wet) sanding block to lightly smooth the tops of your touchup dots even with your hood. This will produce fine scratches. 6- Use a quality random orbital buffer (I use Griot's) to polish the fine scratches out. Then wax. Im still trying to get the touchup paint even with the hood... because the clearcoat is a nightmare to sand. That being said, my car still looks better than it did and eventually Ill get everything perfect. I could have saved myself a lot of trouble and actually be done with this project if I had skipped the clearcoat. Once you polish and wax the touchup paint you do not need clearcoat anyway. Hope this helps somebody! :)
  11. What a royal PITA these keys are... and the lengths that we will go to in order to avoid paying $250 for a new, functional key. Its a ripoff, for sure. I have one functional key and one dead one. The dead one has a dead battery. I have always assumed that since it has been dead for over 3 years that it will have to be reprogrammed whenever I get around to replacing the battery. Right? After reading all of your posts, now Im not even sure if it will ever work! FYI, I recently bought a new key from Sunset. 996-637-243-01 "Handsender" $108.70 996-538-531-00 Blank Key 16.25 The handsender definitely has the "guts" in it and a battery. When you press it, the red light blinks. I probably could re-use one of my old keys (the metal part) in the new handsender to save the $16 (and whatever I end up paying to have it CUT... dont tell me, let me guess: $996?). Of course now I still have to get that handsender programmed (1 hour labor = $90-$125) This is just a silly amount of money for a frikkin key. Only reason I'm doing it is because I thought it would be nice to have a nice, shiny new key for when I am ready to sell the car. If anybody actually gets their old keys with new batteries to work without paying for a re-programming please post the info.
  12. Ouch! Bad news! Be sure you arent running up a huge bill at the "stealer" for storing your car while you look for a decent tranny shop. One of my vehicles (not the porsche) has an iffy transmission and Ive thought about what I would do if it decided to go out on me while I'm on the road. My insurance will pay to have it towed to the nearest dealer, or anywhere else as long is it is the same distance or less as to the nearest dealer. I definately do NOT want to take it to the dealer for the very reason you have discovered. So Im considering getting a $60 annual AAA membership because Ive heard that they will tow up to 100 miles free. I'd want to get my car back to the house until I find the tranny shop I want to deal with. Then I can get AAA to tow it to that shop from my house for free. That's the plan anyway. I havent had much luck on this site getting tips for the best local shops. Hope you have better luck. Have you considered one of those warehouse-style tuner stores out there? Ive heard there are places that will sell you good mods like Pss10s, racing components, tires, etc and are actually pretty good at working on Porsches. Sorry I cant be more specific... its just something Ive heard and I live in Atlanta so there's been no need for me to really follow up on it. Let us know how it works out?
  13. The first thing that I would check would be the hydrolic fluid in the convertible top's pump. I saw a topic on that somewhere on this site in the past, so if you do a seach for it you should find it.
  14. New Years Eve: Mercedes smacked my wifes car in the rear at a stop light. Looks like maybe just some touch-up paint, sanding and polishing to fix. Anybody recommend a good paint or body shop in the North Atlanta area for this? Thanks and Happy New Year
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