smartrepair

I'm interested in hearing about your conversion. What ECU are you using? What wiring harness?

The DME is 7.8 from 2004 996. The middle chassis wiring harness is from a 2003 coupe, I have a cabrio, so I took the convertible part of the old harness and added it to the new harness. Changing the harness was quite a challenge.

The DME needed matching immobilizer and keys.

The fuel system is different, I installed a universal fuel pressure regulator. The new system is returnless, so I just plugged the return line. The egas pedal has been installed as well, no big issues.

Still to be resolved: the power steering pump connectors are different. Installing later type instrument cluster and change some wiring on it.

The engine came with 997 flywheel and clutch. I installed them to the 996 gearbox, but the engine does not turn around! So I will have to change to a 996 clutch.

Looks like it´s the clutch plate which is different...

The engine fires

There is another rubber tube towards the center of the pic to the righ, much smaller that the tube you are reffering to but dissconnected as well.

The small rubber tube goes to the airfilter unit (as far as I know)...

After installing the 3.8 S engine (US specs) to my MY99 996 (US specs), I found out that there´s one tube wiothout connection.

Where do I have to plug it? Something to do with Variocam plus?

Thanks

Kare

Hi

I need the plug-in couplings for the tubings which connect the hydraulic pressure and return line to the pump. There are two sizes and I need the parts which go to the threads on both flexible lines. Then the male part of the rigid tubes are inserted inside this coupling. On the attached drawing, the part "A" and "C".

Are they a Porsche part, or a commonly available part? I tried the pelican parts, and the price was staggering $134 ea. I hope I was wrong!!!!!

Pls advise...thanks

Kare

I´ve done it once (I made a "Porsche Office chair" for me).

As far as I remeber, there were no big issues - no broken plastic tabs etc. However it took me some time and effort to adjust the whole thing.

BTW, an upholstery shop will, quite sure, be able to add some padding, even without removing the whole thing.

Good luck, Kare

Hello - I have been looking into companies that rebuild transmissions and have narrowed it down to a couple. I was trying to get some feed back on Vertex auto, see if anyone had experience with their rebuilt transmission or as a service company in general

Hi

Try Gbox LLC. I bought a reman unit for my 996. Well done, and good prices....

Regards

Kare

I´m continuing my 997S engine installation on MY 996 cabrio.

Now I tried to crank the car, it won´t start. It turns around,but does not fire. For some reason the fuel pump does not supply fuel.

I plugged Durametric, but cannot retrieve any Motronic fault codes. Before I could. The only thing I´ve done is disconnecting the old gas pedal (manual). I still have not connected the egas pedal...

Three relays on the back of the car get warm (they are grey color, I suppose one is the ignition one, though don´t know which one).

With Durametric I could activate the fuel pump.

Thje Durametric reads ABS, Convertible top and air conditioning codes

When I tried the fault codes option, the program just gives me a message of "Wait", but nothing else.

What should I test? It´s obviously a DME related fault. The DME is 7.8, and I have installed a modern wiring harness,matching antitheft module and new matching remote/Inmob. key.

Thanks

kare

Well,I don´tknow what happened, but now the car fires...

But the Durametric still won´t work. The "service engine" light does not work either.

How can I test the DME?

I´m continuing my 997S engine installation on MY 996 cabrio.

Now I tried to crank the car, it won´t start. It turns around,but does not fire. For some reason the fuel pump does not supply fuel.

I plugged Durametric, but cannot retrieve any Motronic fault codes. Before I could. The only thing I´ve done is disconnecting the old gas pedal (manual). I still have not connected the egas pedal...

Three relays on the back of the car get warm (they are grey color, I suppose one is the ignition one, though don´t know which one).

With Durametric I could activate the fuel pump.

Thje Durametric reads ABS, Convertible top and air conditioning codes

When I tried the fault codes option, the program just gives me a message of "Wait", but nothing else.

E-Mail Durametric with your problem. They are so very good at helping out. They are the reason the Durametris is worth what it is. Ed

What should I test? It´s obviously a DME related fault. The DME is 7.8, and I have installed a modern wiring harness,matching antitheft module and new matching remote/Inmob. key.

Thanks

kare

??????

I´m continuing my 997S engine installation on MY 996 cabrio.

Now I tried to crank the car, it won´t start. It turns around,but does not fire. For some reason the fuel pump does not supply fuel.

I plugged Durametric, but cannot retrieve any Motronic fault codes. Before I could. The only thing I´ve done is disconnecting the old gas pedal (manual). I still have not connected the egas pedal...

Three relays on the back of the car get warm (they are grey color, I suppose one is the ignition one, though don´t know which one).

With Durametric I could activate the fuel pump.

Thje Durametric reads ABS, Convertible top and air conditioning codes

When I tried the fault codes option, the program just gives me a message of "Wait", but nothing else.

What should I test? It´s obviously a DME related fault. The DME is 7.8, and I have installed a modern wiring harness,matching antitheft module and new matching remote/Inmob. key.

Thanks

kare

Did it turn over on the bench before it was fitted to the car?

Yes it did. I just opened the transmission bolts a bit, and the engine turns over again, when I tightened them again, the engine was seized.

Kare, what about the differences with the DME? That to me, would be the bigger concern.

I changed the DME 7.8 and the wire harness. I also have new keys coded to the new DME, and new antitheft module. My Durametric says everything is OK, I still have not completed the CAN wires and the instrument cluster change so that is the only error code I get.

The engine tries to turn (I can hear the starter), but the engine is like seized. I tried to turn it with a wrench, but it moves only 1 degree....

I was rear ended on Thursday. Below are some pics of the damage.

Is there any "hidden" areas I should pay particular attention to? Or damage that I should might not be apparent?

What are the chances of having frame / engine / exhaust damage?

Thanks,

Tom

Well, it´s a bit difficult to give an exact opinion of the damages without seeing the vehicle, but looks like the impact was not very big, so quite sure there are no engine/exhaust damages, and the frame itself should be OK. There is an impact absorber under the bumper, and it should be replaced after an impact ( bigger than parking place one).

Generally speaking, if there is a frame damage, this can be detected by gap differences (between doors, trunk, hood etc.) and by they don´t close well. Sometimes the frame should be measured...

All the best

Kare

Hi folks

I just installed a 997 S engine to my 996 (from year 99) gearbox.

Something is wrong as the engine does not turn around.

The engine came with 997 flywheel and clutch. I wonder if the 997 flywheel is bigger, and is touching the gearbox somehow, or have I installed some parts of the clutch incorrectly.

Does somebody know what is the difference between 996 and 997 flywheels/clutches?

Thanks

Kare

There are aftermarket devices for removing air pockets. Porsche came out with their version a few years ago.

I replaced the plastic tank on my Box last year. The mechanic friend said you did not need to bleed on a Box when only the tank is replaced. Our tank is higher than a 996. Did not ask about a 996.

In the old Box shop manual you brought the car to operating temp, then reved it from time to time (with the bleed valve open), to move any air pockets to the tank and out the bleed valve. Or something like that.

The old and new shop manual methods make sense if you run a repair place. Porsche is not going to tell the mechanic to drive a customer car around on public streets to heat it up and to get any air out. They want that car sitting in the stall, at the dealership.

I did it like Loren. I lifted up on the wire bail thing and went for a 20 minute drive. Then closed the valve.

Where is this bleed valve (or "wire bail thing")? In the coolant tank?

Regards

Kare

It is just a fuel supply system. Except for the C4 in the USA, the DME does not regulate fuel pressure.

The factory just went to a returnless system for emissions. Thus, anyway you regulate the fuel pressure, as long as it is the correct pressure will work just fine. You can use the old fuel rail setup and the integrated FPR (just remove the vacuum connection as the later programming doesn't rely on reducing the fuel pressure under vacuum, just a constant 3.8 bar) or you can use the 997 returnless rails and fabricate some sort of aftermarket FPR or you can integrate the returnless system on the car which requires new fuel pump and level sending assembly.

Todd

Hi again (continuing with my MY 996 engine swap with 3.8 ). The project goes very slowly, very slowly, as I´ve been sourcing parts....

Right now I found MY03 engine wiring harness, which I installed. Have to open half car, I never thought it´s so much work. Further complications came as the harness I bought is for coupe, and mine is a convertible (so I cut the extra wires out form the old one).

Now I have problem with EGAS, I haven´t found any instructions how to wire the late egas pedal to the 7.8 DME I have . I´ve been spending hours with wiring diagrams, but have not located the famous 4 extra wires I have to install. In the new egas pedal there is a 4 wire plug in top of the pedal, is this the one? And where do Ihave to connect those 4 wires????

Please help, I could not find the information by searching this forum....

Thanks

Kare

Just completed repairing and refitting the clamshell drive unit on a 1999 Carrera cab, set the potentiometer for 6.2K ohms, cleared all faults with durametric, roof opens to halfway point, then sets operation timeout fault, flashes warning indicator and ceases operation. My question to anyone who knows is "How do I calibrate the roof without the PST2" as Durametric does not offer this function. :help:

All window and roof functions are otherwise synchronized, I'm assuming the position of the roof was incorrect when I reinstalled the potentiometer.

Note, my brain is starting to hurt a bit, and I am re-kindling an old love of early cars. :thankyou:

I think durametric does have the calibrating in their program. Update to the latest version.

Just for your brain....

Kare

Hi everybody

Little by little picking up necessary hardware for my 3.8 engine swap (for MY1999): I bought a complete 996 MY2003 rear engine harness to be able to connect the new 7.8 DME.

But I got a bit scared when I started to look how complicated it is to change.I have a cabrio one.

Does anybody know if the rear harness is different in a convertible than in a coupe? As I bought the harness loose, I don´t know from which car it really comes from.

I have to decide if I will change the complete wiring loom,or just the part between engine plugs and DME.

Thanks,

Kare

Is there a write up somewhere on what is involved in the 996 into Boxster engine swap. I have a 2000 Boxster 2.7 that runs great, but when the motor goes south I would rather do a swap than replace the engine with another 2.7. Maybe I'll just ship the car off to Todd :lol:

Basic mechanical how to can be found here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13527

I probably should update it, as I am doing things a bit differently now.

The difficulty in the 3.6 and 3.8 engines into the earlier cars is not in the mechanical aspect as they are the same as the 3.4, it is the electronics.

Todd

Does anybody has any idea where I can get the DME connectors for the 7.8 DME?

As I´m installing the 3.8 engine to early 996, I purchased the late DME, but the connectors are different (I need to rewire everything). The problem is I cannot find the connectors (I have the part numbres, but official Porsche dealer here in Spain said the do not exist)!

I´m writing a convesrion chart for the wiring from early to late DME, and right now 85% has been solved....

Saludos

Kare, Spain

Then it´s best to have the car buffed. The original paintwork is always the best, and in this case the cheapest way to get the "new car" look

Thanks for the advice. No real damage on the car. I was just looking to try to get the "new car" shine back in the car. It's a 99 and showing some age. I think I can see where it looks like the clear coat is starting to wear down. Overall, the paint is fine, but I know I can't get the shine it used to have when it was brand new with wax.

What kind of damage do you have on your paintwork?

The only thing that can be removed by buffing (= polishing, does not include any new layers of clearcoat) are superficial scratches. The puffing is not used when a piece will be repainted , but rather the surface will be matted so the paint/clearcoat will adhere.

Saludos

Kare, Spain

Hello,

Can anyone recommend a good paint shop in the Northern Virginia area? I'm just looking to repaint (same color) and put a couple layers of clear coat.

Actually, is it possible to just buff off the current clear coat and put on a couple new layers without having to repaint? (Sorry....know nothing about repainting cars)

What kind of damage do you have on your paintwork?

The only thing that can be removed by buffing (= polishing, does not include any new layers of clearcoat) are superficial scratches. The puffing is not used when a piece will be repainted , but rather the surface will be matted so the paint/clearcoat will adhere.

Saludos

Kare, Spain

Hello,

Can anyone recommend a good paint shop in the Northern Virginia area? I'm just looking to repaint (same color) and put a couple layers of clear coat.

Actually, is it possible to just buff off the current clear coat and put on a couple new layers without having to repaint? (Sorry....know nothing about repainting cars)

I had a RMS failure as well (two times). Finally the dealer GLUED the new seal into place, with the same stuff they use to glue sideskirts to the body. Been 12 months now and completely leak free. They say this does the job once and for all and do that on every RMS leak they encounter..

Might be helpfull! Worked fot me.. :renntech:

Just a crazy idea....

I was looking at the RMS on my 997 S engine and was wondering what happens if I fit SECOND SEAL. I didn´t have a a seal nearby tomeasure the thickness, but it might fit (as nowadays the seal is fitted inside more deeply).

I don´t know wheter the seal needs a contact with oil to work well, but in this way the second seal would have much less pressure, and might hold the small drops which are leaking through the first and original seal.

What you think guys?

Kare, Spain

It is just a fuel supply system. Except for the C4 in the USA, the DME does not regulate fuel pressure.

The factory just went to a returnless system for emissions. Thus, anyway you regulate the fuel pressure, as long as it is the correct pressure will work just fine. You can use the old fuel rail setup and the integrated FPR (just remove the vacuum connection as the later programming doesn't rely on reducing the fuel pressure under vacuum, just a constant 3.8 bar) or you can use the 997 returnless rails and fabricate some sort of aftermarket FPR or you can integrate the returnless system on the car which requires new fuel pump and level sending assembly.

Todd

What was your solution for the 7.8 DME wiring harness connectors, as they are different than the earlier one. Can I buy them separately (Audi, Volkswagenparts perhaps?)?

kare

Hi

I need to change my right side radiator (MY99, 996). I found a new one at Ebay, but the guy says it´s only for the left side.

In my opinion the radiator looks symmetric, so just changing one plug it goes both sides. Is it true?

The parts diagram give two different reference numbers.

Regards

Kare

What would be the recommended DME for my 3.8 S engine swap ( my car is MY99 C2 cabrio). I have possibility to get resonable priced 997S DME or 996 7.8 version.

What is the principal difference on these DMEs? I suppose they are different as the part numbers are diffeent.

I know that the more advanced the car gets, more complicated the modifications. So I was wondering if the 997 S DME is too complicated for my car...

I also need to purchase the A/C control unit, and the ABS control unit. Do the latest model 996 ones (for 3.6 engine) work with the 997 S DME?

And the last question, can the CAN bus cables be made, or do I have to buy them from Porsche?

Thanks and saludos

Kare

You might look at the factory repair manual set. I believe the majority of the information your looking for is in there. :)

thanks for the reply. i'll check into a repair manual set. it might be just what i need. i understand that it's at least 1000 pages. nothing like a little light reading. :)

Last time I checked it was over 5855 pages plus schematics...

Well there´s no need to read the whole thing: the engine sections are what you need to know, right?

Unfortunately the manuals do not include too much information about the engine specifications. I did a complete rebuild by myself and the problem was I couldn´t find the specs either. However the manual explains very well the whole process.

Kare