wrljet

6 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

Try 1964

 

That worked.  Thank you very much, Loren.

Bill

Looking for code for:

CCR 220

Becker 4462

S/N X5029593

Thank you,

Bill

19 hours ago, 2001 996 seal Gray said:

So  if you disconnect the small hose and seal off the hole in the box  and put the hose back you basically will accomplish the same thing?   I'm just looking for a little bit more throaty sound I'm satisfied with the horse power.

Basically yes.  But I wouldn't do it again myself.  At certain RPM ranges it makes an unpleasant high frequency noise.

That aspect of the airbox is designed the way it is for a reason. 

However you seal it up, though, be careful it can't get sucked into the motor!

Bill

Thanks, I'm good.

If anyone is interested in the dimensions, let me know and I'll post them. :thumbup:

I am interested. 

Thanks, Bill

wrljet did you find out what these were, just oil changed mine and found similar ferrous particles....worried! :(

 

I pulled the bottom of the sump off and found nothing else similar in there.  Just some bits of plastic, presumeably chain guide rails.

(and some RTV sealant)

I talked to Jake Raby on the phone about it. What he had to say sounded good to me, so I spent money to ship them the car and have it inspected.  He suggested the metal chips might be the iron plating coming off a piston, but couldn't be sure.

They gave me a quote for a bunch of work, more than the car was/is worth.  So I had them just button it back up and ship it back.

I switched to the DT40 oil, per his suggestion.

No more similar metal has been found in the filter since then (it's been 2 years, but I haven't run it too much).

I did find the tiniest spec of aluminum.

The engine taps quite a bit, which I believe is sticky lifters, but nothing has gotten worse.... yet

Bill

Bill, if such a retrofit used vacuum lines and was designed properly, we wouldn't need a servo motor, correct? I'm wondering if it would be worth it to bring some calipers to the shop this Friday when I go to install my spoiler and flex disk. The owner has a few 997s for sale there, and he's nice enough to probably let me take some measurements.

John,

There are various ways to pull this off. Somehow or another we'd need to convert electrical to motion.

You could use a spring loaded vacuum diaphragm, and a solenoid vacuum valve.

Just seemed to me to be easier to use a small servo.

If you're going to be around a 997 airbox, especially if it's off the car, I'd appreciate

a bunch of good pictures. Top and bottom, mountings, etc. to see how it compares

to the 996. Of course, be sure it actually has this flap in it.

Bill

This is really smart! All the straight-pipe cold air intakes eliminate the Helmholtz resonators which compromises sound at resonant RPMs. I wonder if it'd be possible to retrofit the vacuum controlled 997 resonant chambers onto a 996.

I've thought about it, but never got around to looking at a 997 airbox in person.

I don't know anyone locally with a 997 and didn't want to just buy one for the research.

I also thought about a custom made throttle flap possibly using a RC servo.

The electronic control would have to be a separate standalone box as that aspect isn't

inside the 996 DME, but that's not difficult.

Bill

How did you determine the thumping was from the front strut mounts?

Did you just replace them and the noise went away, or was there some diagnostic "test" possible?

-Bill

Has the source of these metal particles been determined?

I have the similar ones now myself. 3 or 4 pieces. Very thin and brittle, and magnetic. One broke when I was getting it into the baggy.

Well, parts replaced, but still have a (somewhat muted) thump/clunk. Found evidence of swaybar contacting lower control arms. Still looking into this.

Did you figure anything out with your noises?

Well, I finally managed to buy the OEM TRW end links, replaced both front and rear.

A lot less klunky now. Overall quieter on the road.

But there's still noises on both ends. At very low speeds (10 mph) over crappy road

surfaces. More of a thump / thud in the rear than a klunk.

Swaybar mounts are also new-ish.

I've also noticed the rubber overload "spring" (not sure what it's actually called)

on the right front is decomposing. The rubber is getting crumbly.

Car (2002 C2) only has 40,000 miles on it.

Bill

Here's a picture showing the OEM vs. Dezza parts that don't fit (despite catalog claims that they do):

I think I found the part nr.

996.101.016.00 Cover
996.101.336.50 Gasket

That's a cover for a coolant passage. I had the same leak before. It's just a metal plate with a built-in rubber gasket on it. I replaced the whole plate and that fixed the leak. About 2gal of coolant will drain when you remove that plate. Similar to opening the coolant drain bolt.

Do you happen to still have the part number?

Seems like a pretty large area to just have a screw in two corners. Of course the leak is at an unsecured corner.

2002 996 C2 6-speed (normal non-GT3, non-Turbo)

As I mentioned in my post, see the picture in the first post of this thread,

at the bottom of the red arrow, is a rectangular cover plate attached by two screws.

In the picture in the first post of this thread, at the bottom of the red arrow, is a rectanglar

cover plate attached by two screws.

I've got something oozing from that. Coolant or water of some sort.

I've attached two pictures of my leak.

What is that cover for and what's inside?

Any idea on gasket/seal part number?

Thanks, Bill

OK, I guess that's a "no" on the Moog end links.

Do not buy Deeza LNL607 from RockAuto. They don't have the hex needed to wrench them into the strut.

-Bill

Has anyone tried the Moog replacement for these sway bar end links? Moog k750184

• Problem Solver® powdered metal gusher bearing design enables grease to flow through the bearing to the stud for reduced friction and enhanced strength and stability.
• Full ball metal stud provides 360 degrees of smooth, consistent, rotational movement.
• Durable, all metal construction for longer life.
• A thick bar is used for added strength and durability.
• Wrench flats at the base of the stud allow for a positive hold and the use of sockets for quick and easy installation and removal.
• Greaseable socket design allows new lubricant to flush contaminants from the assembly, reducing corrosion and wear

I'd say go ahead and try it, I have seen people use the squat "pancake" style portable compressors used to run nailers and it worked, it just took a bit longer to pull full vacuum.

Not to suggest the CFM of a small pancake compressor won't run the venturi vacuum

gadget, cause I have no info on the air requirements, but...

Not really a valid comparison. Nailers and impact guns use pressure, not volume.

A tiny compressor can run a nailer or impact type device.

Bill

Any common source of similar clunking at the rear, besides the stabilizer bar end links?

Someone had mentioned exhaust brackets. But wiggling around on the exhaust by hand doesn't make the noise.

And the tie rod ends make this noise over abrupt bumps, but not at all when rocking the steering?

Also, the rear end has a similar noise. What do they call that part on the rear, track rod?

Tie rod ends and rear toe contro/track rods all wear by 40,000 miles?

Shake the links on both side of the car. You can feel or hear if there is a problem with the link.

Do these links make clunking noises even if you can't feel any looseness?

I've got clunking on both ends when I enter or leave the garage and hit that sharp 2" jump.

Or other road conditions where there's lots of very small suspension movement, but abrupt.

Noise is exactly the same before and after M030 installation.

Nothing seemed worn when I had it all apart. Top strut bearings seem good.

Bill

Looking for code for:

Becker CR-220

Model BE 6624

S/N 15002649

Thanks,

Bill

Thanks so much for responding. I don't mind doing the DIY and I do see several articles posted on how to do it. How do I know if it is really the ignition switch or something in the Tiptronic? I see there is a "park" sensor in that, which would explain why the lock either won't release the key, or won't allow you to insert it...

The business with the car holding the key hostage electronically only applies to 9x7 cars.

Yours sounds like a mechanical failure of the lock itself. (or switch behind it).

Bill