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wrljet

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Everything posted by wrljet

  1. wrljet
    That worked. Thank you very much, Loren. Bill
  2. wrljet
    Looking for code for: CCR 220 Becker 4462 S/N X5029593 Thank you, Bill
  3. wrljet
    Basically yes. But I wouldn't do it again myself. At certain RPM ranges it makes an unpleasant high frequency noise. That aspect of the airbox is designed the way it is for a reason. However you seal it up, though, be careful it can't get sucked into the motor! Bill
  4. wrljet
    Thanks, I'm good.
  5. wrljet
    I am interested. Thanks, Bill
  6. wrljet
    I pulled the bottom of the sump off and found nothing else similar in there. Just some bits of plastic, presumeably chain guide rails. (and some RTV sealant) I talked to Jake Raby on the phone about it. What he had to say sounded good to me, so I spent money to ship them the car and have it inspected. He suggested the metal chips might be the iron plating coming off a piston, but couldn't be sure. They gave me a quote for a bunch of work, more than the car was/is worth. So I had them just button it back up and ship it back. I switched to the DT40 oil, per his suggestion. No more similar metal has been found in the filter since then (it's been 2 years, but I haven't run it too much). I did find the tiniest spec of aluminum. The engine taps quite a bit, which I believe is sticky lifters, but nothing has gotten worse.... yet Bill
  7. wrljet
    John, There are various ways to pull this off. Somehow or another we'd need to convert electrical to motion. You could use a spring loaded vacuum diaphragm, and a solenoid vacuum valve. Just seemed to me to be easier to use a small servo. If you're going to be around a 997 airbox, especially if it's off the car, I'd appreciate a bunch of good pictures. Top and bottom, mountings, etc. to see how it compares to the 996. Of course, be sure it actually has this flap in it. Bill
  8. wrljet
    I've thought about it, but never got around to looking at a 997 airbox in person. I don't know anyone locally with a 997 and didn't want to just buy one for the research. I also thought about a custom made throttle flap possibly using a RC servo. The electronic control would have to be a separate standalone box as that aspect isn't inside the 996 DME, but that's not difficult. Bill
  9. wrljet
    How did you determine the thumping was from the front strut mounts? Did you just replace them and the noise went away, or was there some diagnostic "test" possible? -Bill
  10. wrljet
    Has the source of these metal particles been determined? I have the similar ones now myself. 3 or 4 pieces. Very thin and brittle, and magnetic. One broke when I was getting it into the baggy.
  11. wrljet
    Did you figure anything out with your noises?
  12. wrljet
    Well, I finally managed to buy the OEM TRW end links, replaced both front and rear. A lot less klunky now. Overall quieter on the road. But there's still noises on both ends. At very low speeds (10 mph) over crappy road surfaces. More of a thump / thud in the rear than a klunk. Swaybar mounts are also new-ish. I've also noticed the rubber overload "spring" (not sure what it's actually called) on the right front is decomposing. The rubber is getting crumbly. Car (2002 C2) only has 40,000 miles on it. Bill
  13. wrljet
    Here's a picture showing the OEM vs. Dezza parts that don't fit (despite catalog claims that they do):
  14. wrljet
    I think I found the part nr. 996.101.016.00 Cover 996.101.336.50 Gasket
  15. wrljet
    Do you happen to still have the part number? Seems like a pretty large area to just have a screw in two corners. Of course the leak is at an unsecured corner.
  16. wrljet
    2002 996 C2 6-speed (normal non-GT3, non-Turbo) As I mentioned in my post, see the picture in the first post of this thread, at the bottom of the red arrow, is a rectangular cover plate attached by two screws.
  17. wrljet
    In the picture in the first post of this thread, at the bottom of the red arrow, is a rectanglar cover plate attached by two screws. I've got something oozing from that. Coolant or water of some sort. I've attached two pictures of my leak. What is that cover for and what's inside? Any idea on gasket/seal part number? Thanks, Bill
  18. wrljet
    OK, I guess that's a "no" on the Moog end links. Do not buy Deeza LNL607 from RockAuto. They don't have the hex needed to wrench them into the strut. -Bill
  19. wrljet
    Has anyone tried the Moog replacement for these sway bar end links? Moog k750184 Problem Solver® powdered metal gusher bearing design enables grease to flow through the bearing to the stud for reduced friction and enhanced strength and stability. Full ball metal stud provides 360 degrees of smooth, consistent, rotational movement. Durable, all metal construction for longer life. A thick bar is used for added strength and durability. Wrench flats at the base of the stud allow for a positive hold and the use of sockets for quick and easy installation and removal. Greaseable socket design allows new lubricant to flush contaminants from the assembly, reducing corrosion and wear
  20. wrljet
    Not to suggest the CFM of a small pancake compressor won't run the venturi vacuum gadget, cause I have no info on the air requirements, but... Not really a valid comparison. Nailers and impact guns use pressure, not volume. A tiny compressor can run a nailer or impact type device. Bill
  21. wrljet
    Any common source of similar clunking at the rear, besides the stabilizer bar end links? Someone had mentioned exhaust brackets. But wiggling around on the exhaust by hand doesn't make the noise.
  22. wrljet
    And the tie rod ends make this noise over abrupt bumps, but not at all when rocking the steering? Also, the rear end has a similar noise. What do they call that part on the rear, track rod? Tie rod ends and rear toe contro/track rods all wear by 40,000 miles?
  23. wrljet
    Do these links make clunking noises even if you can't feel any looseness? I've got clunking on both ends when I enter or leave the garage and hit that sharp 2" jump. Or other road conditions where there's lots of very small suspension movement, but abrupt. Noise is exactly the same before and after M030 installation. Nothing seemed worn when I had it all apart. Top strut bearings seem good. Bill
  24. wrljet
    Looking for code for: Becker CR-220 Model BE 6624 S/N 15002649 Thanks, Bill
  25. wrljet
    The business with the car holding the key hostage electronically only applies to 9x7 cars. Yours sounds like a mechanical failure of the lock itself. (or switch behind it). Bill
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