987_RDC

I've had no issues with my Tooki once I reflashed it to the "cold weather boot" FW. Never errors.

Wow there is actually someone at the parts in Steven's Creek? I never get a call back or email reply.....

Fremont Porsche seems to have the best pricing in Bay Area. Scott is a big help.

Glad you found the solution. Anyone needing a replacement HVAC for 02+ let me know. I have a spare.

Have you confirmed under the car that the cables are properly secured to the transmission? It is possible the "locking" prongs on the shifter cables have come undone or loose.

Palo Alto Speedometer (in CA) can repair the unit also.

Looks good. Perhaps recommend Mobil Polyrex EM as the grease. Made for electronic motors and $5 from Grainger.

A cheap ATV jack from horrible freight and some 2x4s makes it much easier. Just a suggestion.

Buy used one and list your for sale as parts. Could help out someone else.

What tool did you use to cut?

Waiting for Costco to have the 2k sale again.

I have two sets of ~350 cc/min injectors from Carrera S 3.8L if that is any help. They don't have the plastic green portion. I bought them to diagnose a misfire but didn't need them.

Thanks for the tip. I was able to use Loctite 5900 and some pressure to get the plug sufficiently in.

The only thing I can lever off of is the engine mount. It flexes too much to get the plug to seat. Quite frustrating.

Just grabbed a 2" thread protector cap off a pipe in Ace Hardware. Might use that if I cannot get the OEM plug in.

Anyone know any tricks to get the brown larger cam plug reinstalled on bank 2? There is only 3" of clearance so cannot get enough behind a hammer/wrench to get it in. The green plugs were easy to install by hand.

Why is the large cam plug so difficult!

That might be a tough item to find in Texas

Made me laugh. I recall being in Austin and telling them the Stars were in the playoffs. The bar wouldn't change the TV since horse jumping was on.

Anyone find another seller that can beat Costco $2k delivered price for MaxJax?

Perfect. Thanks for the replies. I couldn't confirm from the various other postings. I have a set of LN tools but was scratching my head on the differences between the variocam and plus tools.

I've seen quite a few posts detailing removal of camshafts in the 3.4L engine. There is a Porsche tool that appears to be a very long screw that compresses the VarioCam as part of the removal process. Is this the same tool needed on VarioCam Plus engines? I see the actuator is external on the 3.6L.

Also what is the diameter and thread pitch of the VarioCam tool? I had read 4mm and left handed threaded....but unconfirmed.

I will try and take some pics when I do the passanger side of my 996. The window down function (upon exit) has been intermittent and I want a perfect functioning ride.

Edit: The pics I tried to take of the switch didn't come out clear. The switch is quite tiny but can be removed and cleaned after getting the lock mechanism out.

In my 987 it was under the passanger seat. I had to "loop out" the part for Tooki install.

Is the rear fabric tight from the cords that connect to the rear of the top? I know you can adjust that portion but wondering if the bolt came loose.

Without a PIWIS you are shooting in the dark. Go check every microswitch and adjust the metal tabs to ensure engagement. It might look like one switch but will be a prior one not completing in time. Then the process will reverse and report failure.

My 99 cab looked to be the roof top switch but then was a damaged final rear latch that runs off the clamshell. Others have reported adjusting side "wings" switches solving their issue.

You might want to call Palo Alto Speedometer and talk with the knowledgeable folks there.

They can update your cluster to correct mileage.

Replacing the cables also or just the motor? Motor swap is pretty simple with removing the screws and then opening with undoing clips. Then put the ends of cable back in along with sliding pieces and snap together (may need some grease if new).

Yep P0455 is large EVAP leak. Occurs during the initialization of EVAP when system attempts to allow tank to hold vacuum. On older Ford Exporer it was 1st the gas cap but then the filler neck that was bad. All signs do point to ****ty seal on the aftermarket cap.....

Another solution would be to get the CD changer wiring that creates an audio in. Then use a 3rd party radio from sirus etc to enable.