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987_RDC

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987_RDC last won the day on June 29

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About 987_RDC

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    2006 Cayman S

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  1. Loren can a PIWIS One or II do the settings? I have access in San Jose.
  2. I posted long ago about a piece of the clamshell drive that is likely your issue. Final microswitch is OK but not being pressed. Check my old posts.
  3. CT20P001 arrived from the UK. Ordered that since it was cheaper. Works great for the 996 BOSE amp (MOST style) connector to access the stock speak output wires. I just had to adjust two pins since I think it is setup for a Cayenne and also snip off the "guiding nubs" since it would not fully seat. Working awesome for the BOSE amp replacement. (BOSE amp missing from used car purchase but looking for clean install vs. cut stock wires) The front dash are Diamond s6.0 4ohm mids with 6ohm tweeters. (4 sets of speaker wires run to the front trunk). The car came with Nokia M680 rear set of speakers at 4ohm. Running an aftermarket deck that came in the car but switched it to "Network mode" where 3 RCA are mid/high/sub. (instead of Front/Rear/Sub) Running a Kicker 46CXA6605 amp where Amp 1 is parallel dash mid and rears @ 2ohm. Amp 2 is mono L with the tweeters in parallel for 3ohm. Door BOSE R, cabriolet sub, door BOSE L in series for 5ohm on sub channel. Pics of the adapter before snipping off the circles:
  4. PCCM+ works for non-MOST too. You just have the change a setting to use the internal amp of the PCCM+
  5. I found that I had to drive around with RPM below 3k to get my 2004 to set all ready.
  6. The ISO pin out can differ depending on radio model. You should check other 986 CDR-23 For 996 does anyone know if the BOSE amp adapter PC2-95-4 is just another PN for the CT20PO01 adapter?
  7. There are a series of checks along the process of opening the top as various microswitches must report success for the process to go through 100%. Sounds like to me that your side flap switches are not activating. IIRC the clamshell moves and then those side flaps activate and spin down. Could also be the limit switch of the clamshell not reporting that it has opened. With the clamshell opened you can pop off the hooks and lift up the back of the soft top to check the fluid level and poke around. Maybe lube up the spirals screws on the side flaps.
  8. Always nice when you remove a radio and see that someone has "sharpied" the code onto the top. I started doing that or coding into the DME.
  9. Sounds like you already solved the issue. Dealers had the white tags and did not keep them with the car. Too bad they did not come on a card that was placed in the user manual as the guy who has the "bad original 2nd key" is the original owner. Just looked up new fob heads and seems they are not as bad as I recall. Like $170
  10. Oh I meant just the 24 digit fob codes from the original keys should of been saved somewhere. Last time I was poking around I think I uploaded my radio code into a writable area of the DME. I think with white tag codes that you could at least redo the PIWIS process with one original key + 2nd new key + 2nd original lost key and then end up with three working keys. It just kind of sucks to have an original key that no longer functions. Unless you know of a way to find/recover the 24 digit codes from original keys. Did Porsche save this info somewhere matched to the VIN?
  11. Loren it seems like if the car was upside down the ground would do the same thing.
  12. I think what you are referencing is the risk you can run later when you find an old key you lost. Unless you have all your keys and then also the new key (w unique coding tag) when using the PIWIS that is all that gets put back into the immobilizer. That happened to someone I know. Had two keys and lost one. Went to dealership to add a replacement and left with two working keys. Found original lost key but now that key is useless, only can open the door but cannot start car nor remote lock/unlock. The issue above could of technically be resolved if when new from Porsche both the keys from the factory had their unique code (key white tag code) included on some card. Even better would of been to store that info somewhere in the DME from the factory.
  13. Actually there are a few pieces of the key (which you know). The mechanical blade, immobilizer pill & Fob electronics(w coding to immobilizer). A mechanically cut key will unlock the door. A mechanical key + pill will start the car. The fob is just for the remote unlock of the doors & disable of alarm. So Mark (and myself with a dead key electronics but with cut key and pill) will mechanically open the door and if fast enough turn the ignition to Run before the alarm goes off. If you wait too long then you get the embarrassing honking. You can move the pill and mechanical blade to another plastic housing and leave out the now "dead" electronic fob. Regarding reviving the FOB: What would be great would be to figure out what chip is out of spec. Best case would be a capacitor or resistor. If it is a worn trace then that could technically be repaired. If the actual important chip of the immobilizer coding has "worn out" then Fob is done for. Back when I had a 02 NA 996 I never did figure out how to revive my fob electronics. I ended up getting a 2nd key NEW (very important) and then was able to have two working keys for driving the car but only one working fob for remote lock/unlock.
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