987_RDC

Is this what the OEM GT2 996 exhaust looks like?

Loren does the GT2 exhaust have any drone? I want a bit more sound but generally dislike aftermarket. (except Cargraphic in some models)

Sounds like something weird with the CAN bus if not the ignition switch. Perhaps disconnect and reconnect that unit.

I had excellent results with my convertible top and also the rear spoiler operating smoother and faster with applying Finish Line Max Suspension Spray.

Why are you replacing the sensor? What behavior is occurring?

My 996TT came with upgraded diverter vales. I put on the EPL stage 1 flash for K16, 91 octane and 6 speed. For sure made the top end wake up. I think it was a worthwhile upgrade.

Highly recommended update for any 986/996 is to swap those billet bushings into a used 997 shifter and exchange out the 996 shifter.

On 9/28/2021 at 11:19 AM, laalves said:

 

Actually, haven't got'round doing this yet.

Any update?

I find that baffling since how does dealerships add a remote if all "remote" slots are full? (i.e. four) From my experience with the delete button in the "transponder" section everything gets cleared out. Perhaps the "remote" section does not do that since you can see "current radio" showing the 8 digit paired fob. Thus just tread carefully and document the keys in hand and remove those that are not. But unless you can backwards eject the 24 digit code from known keys first, how do you not mistakenly turn all the original remotes useless?

There is a Delete and then a different button for Delete All. I tried to just delete just one unknown "transponder" and all four "transponder" slots got blown away. Not a huge deal with the "transponder" since you don't need some magic 24 digits. I took pictures before since I knew I wanted to just remove the two "mystery transponders".

Position 2 and Position 4 were my two in-hand keys. I went to delete (singular) Position 1 and all four got deleted. Maybe that is a known function since I tried to remove the 1st transponder?

Again switching gears back to the fob remote section:

Wild that the 24 digit radio code gets turned into an 8 digit code when paired with the immobilizer.

Say I did not have an open slot #4 in the remotes section. What happens when you select delete? How do you maintain the 1st key that came with the car without the 24 digit code?

I think on the IPAS code sheet there something called Remote 1 and Remote 2 but those are the encoded versions and not the 24 digit style. I could be recalling that wrong....

On 6/10/2008 at 7:41 PM, Loren said:

Just a few points of clarification...

When you program a key you must have ALL the keys present. There are only 4 key slots available in the immobilizer - so max keys is 4.

When you replace a bad key you need the good keys so you know which key code is the bad one to program over.

If don't have all the keys present you run the risk of programming over a good key and leaving the bad key program in the immobilizer (wasting a spot or disabling another key).

As Kim said the key blank (blade, metal part) must be cut to fit the car (ignition and door).

Never buy a "new" or "never used" key without the 24 digit key code tag. Without the tag the key is worthless and can be programmed to a car.

The reason you need all your keys is that when you/dealership try and select one transponder pill to delete the PIWIS will delete them all! So then you need to go back and re-add each key or you aren't going anywhere.

Switching gears to the remote fob:

Loren do you know how to read out the 24 digit code from the car for the two remotes that come from the factory? I have a 2nd "original key" where the fob stopped working. Wondering if I can remove and re-add it to see if will work again. Also worried that the "remote" section will operate similar to the "transponder" section where if you select one line to remove then all the remotes get deleted. How would I know the 24 digit code to re-pair the still working other key? (Three key heads in hand but only new replacement key has 24 digit white tag)

I just paired up the new remote but lucked out that I have an open slot 4 and did not have to delete anything in the PIWIS for the "remote" section. I have now three keys where two work for starting + remote unlocking. Trying to figure out what I want to do with the 3rd key where the remote stopped working.....can it be fixed?.....turn into a valet key?

My dad's 996 also has a key that got "orphaned". Found that key after the dealership stupidly removed remote/transponder slots when adding a replacement backup key. Seriously why did they not just use slot#3 for both on the new key preserving the #2 key if found? Anyways, ideally I would like to figure out if anyway to get the remote working again but hard to figure out what the immobilizer uses to turn the 24 digit code into the "stored remote code". Guessing I am SOL on that since they likely cleared out all the "remote" section when adding a backup key. Does Porsche NA know all the original 24 digit remote codes in a database somewhere........

I just took off my two rear passenger panels to check the drains. They were actually mostly clean and one had a missing splash guard (made replacement from white semi-stiff plastic packaging). I used a toothbrush and simple green to clean all of the rubber trim around the clamshell and the "chutes" into the drain bins. Not sure why my passenger rear rug is wet. Could of been that the drains are partially blocked and I flooded them using a mechanical carwash. I still need to remove the rear wheels and splash guards to check the exit ports.

Highly recommended that you spray both sides of your cab pistons with Finish Line Max Suspension Spray. I had it from servicing the spoiler and wow what an improvement. My top stays in the service position when before it slowly crept back or forward.

Both sides of my "corrugated tube" were in good shape.(seen to right of the white plastic) Should not be split and also have some grease and o-ring where it connects up top. Then goes down and clips to feed into the bin.

More diagrams and pictures:

Loren can a PIWIS One or II do the settings? I have access in San Jose.

I posted long ago about a piece of the clamshell drive that is likely your issue. Final microswitch is OK but not being pressed. Check my old posts.

Yep looked around. You need to move to the UK now

CT20P001 arrived from the UK. Ordered that since it was cheaper. Works great for the 996 BOSE amp (MOST style) connector to access the stock speak output wires. I just had to adjust two pins since I think it is setup for a Cayenne and also snip off the "guiding nubs" since it would not fully seat.

Working awesome for the BOSE amp replacement. (BOSE amp missing from used car purchase but looking for clean install vs. cut stock wires) The front dash are Diamond s6.0 4ohm mids with 6ohm tweeters. (4 sets of speaker wires run to the front trunk). The car came with Nokia M680 rear set of speakers at 4ohm. Running an aftermarket deck that came in the car but switched it to "Network mode" where 3 RCA are mid/high/sub. (instead of Front/Rear/Sub)

Running a Kicker 46CXA6605 amp where Amp 1 is parallel dash mid and rears @ 2ohm. Amp 2 is mono L with the tweeters in parallel for 3ohm. Door BOSE R, cabriolet sub, door BOSE L in series for 5ohm on sub channel.

Pics of the adapter before snipping off the circles:

PCCM+ works for non-MOST too. You just have the change a setting to use the internal amp of the PCCM+

I found that I had to drive around with RPM below 3k to get my 2004 to set all ready.

The ISO pin out can differ depending on radio model. You should check other 986 CDR-23

For 996 does anyone know if the BOSE amp adapter PC2-95-4 is just another PN for the CT20PO01 adapter?

There are a series of checks along the process of opening the top as various microswitches must report success for the process to go through 100%. Sounds like to me that your side flap switches are not activating. IIRC the clamshell moves and then those side flaps activate and spin down. Could also be the limit switch of the clamshell not reporting that it has opened.

With the clamshell opened you can pop off the hooks and lift up the back of the soft top to check the fluid level and poke around. Maybe lube up the spirals screws on the side flaps.

Always nice when you remove a radio and see that someone has "sharpied" the code onto the top.  I started doing that or coding into the DME.

Sounds like you already solved the issue. Dealers had the white tags and did not keep them with the car.

Too bad they did not come on a card that was placed in the user manual as the guy who has the "bad original 2nd key" is the original owner.

Just looked up new fob heads and seems they are not as bad as I recall. Like $170

Oh I meant just the 24 digit fob codes from the original keys should of been saved somewhere. Last time I was poking around I think I uploaded my radio code into a writable area of the DME. I think with white tag codes that you could at least redo the PIWIS process with one original key + 2nd new key + 2nd original lost key and then end up with three working keys.

It just kind of sucks to have an original key that no longer functions. Unless you know of a way to find/recover the 24 digit codes from original keys. Did Porsche save this info somewhere matched to the VIN?

Ah thanks sorry I skipped ahead in the reading.

Loren it seems like if the car was upside down the ground would do the same thing.