987_RDC

1 hour ago, JFP in PA said:

Problem is that the information is in what is called an RFID "pill", which cannot be altered without killing the coding, which is why the dealer network makes a killing selling replacements.  You can try moving the pill, but you could end up right back where you started 😱

I think what you are referencing is the risk you can run later when you find an old key you lost. Unless you have all your keys and then also the new key (w unique coding tag) when using the PIWIS that is all that gets put back into the immobilizer. That happened to someone I know. Had two keys and lost one. Went to dealership to add a replacement and left with two working keys. Found original lost key but now that key is useless, only can open the door but cannot start car nor remote lock/unlock.

The issue above could of technically be resolved if when new from Porsche both the keys from the factory had their unique code (key white tag code) included on some card. Even better would of been to store that info somewhere in the DME from the factory.

Actually there are a few pieces of the key (which you know). The mechanical blade, immobilizer pill & Fob electronics(w coding to immobilizer). A mechanically cut key will unlock the door. A mechanical key + pill will start the car. The fob is just for the remote unlock of the doors & disable of alarm.

So Mark (and myself with a dead key electronics but with cut key and pill) will mechanically open the door and if fast enough turn the ignition to Run before the alarm goes off. If you wait too long then you get the embarrassing honking.

You can move the pill and mechanical blade to another plastic housing and leave out the now "dead" electronic fob.

Regarding reviving the FOB:

What would be great would be to figure out what chip is out of spec. Best case would be a capacitor or resistor. If it is a worn trace then that could technically be repaired. If the actual important chip of the immobilizer coding has "worn out" then Fob is done for.

Back when I had a 02 NA 996 I never did figure out how to revive my fob electronics. I ended up getting a 2nd key NEW (very important) and then was able to have two working keys for driving the car but only one working fob for remote lock/unlock.

For fixing just the remote FOB: Makes me wonder if you could take one of the important chips holding the immobilizer coding and re-solder it to another used eBay key.

The bummer about the 996 keys is to reporgram with PIWIS you need the unique key tag (comes attached to new key) and the iPAS codes for the car. (done this w my PIWIS)

You can re-code a used ebay 987 key on 997/987 cars. (not personally done)

It would be nice to inspect the SD and see if format is already a known used setup from another car (i.e. updated audi maps can be used in a ferrari)

Did your car also come with BOSE?

The 3.2L (2005 & 2006 Boxster S only) can have the IMS issue so the 2.7L is more reliable in that matter.

Hrm, I see. Well if anyone wants to buy my PIWIS to code their car themselves that is an option.

Any dealership with a PIWIS can disable the throax airbag. Are they saying they refuse to or that they do not know how?

Original DME and immobilizer or did you swap those from the other engine?

There isn't a piggie back system that works for VarioCam Plus. Someone had something that "may" have worked for VarioCam since more-or-less a RPM activated switch.

If earlier 986 then you need to swap over the ECU to later ver. Thus CAN bus stuff has to come along with it. (Cluster, HVAC console) Then depending on year of your Boxster you have way more fun with maybe needing ABS parts and possible egas pedal etc etc etc.

Looks like 03+ is the best car to swap 3.6L into:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm

Perhaps replace the sensors that supplies the signal to the instrument cluster? That or issue a "reprogram" of the cluster from inside the PIWIS, you just need to have all the car details.

Sent PM, I have a 996TT wing pump for sale.

If anyone is interested, I just spotted one of these kits attached to a 996 3.4L on eBay. Could be a nice setup for 986.

I think that is normal for stock rear to not have the "spring". I remember putting the stock "spring" around the stainless lines I bought but none on the rear.

Perhaps they updated the part for rears?

There is a metal wire that is behind the tail light you can use to pop the trunk.

What is the latest USA maps?

You can find articles that outline how to disable the TPMS.

Whatever is in sunscreen seems to greatly accelerate the wear. So couple that with hot car and they turn to crap. Just replace them.

At leats in the 996, the final microswitch is often in the latch assembly. There is a piece of plastic that goes onto the hook that sometimes falls off. If your roof is latched then perhaps it is in the clamshell where a microswitch is triggered at the end of the clamshell travel. That is performed by a metal "foot" coming out and pressing the switch.

Search my previous posts about clamshell. Hope it is similar.

The first diagnostic was at the smog center; the technician told me 3 systems weren't ready. "Go drive around, at least 100 miles," he said. 200 miles later, here I am.

Next I used my buddy's USB "PCM Scan" tool. It allows you to see the readiness flags for each module, as well as pull trouble codes. It doesn't show any faults.

But I used a real Durametric to get the ABS/PSM fault code earlier today.

Hey let me know if you need access to w PIWIS to resolve. Good job on the rebuild.

For some reason 19" pops in my mind. Make sure you support the engine when removing the trans. I had a hell of a time lining mine back up and had to loosen engine mounts.

Likely replacing the heavy exhaust with something lighter and free flowing. Intake is just for sound.

Shed weight.

Ah sorry I thought you had base CD radio, not PCM.

The phone/CD changer plug in the back on the radio is pretty straight forward. I would think either ignition switch needs replacement (causes electrical gremlins) or swap out the radio with one from eBay. (can get coding from this forum)

PM me for stuff that a dura might not fix.