987_RDC

Perhaps grab a seat belt receptical off eBay and swap it in. Clear code and see if it returns?

i don't freakin get it...if they can make led tail lights for non wide body 996s why can't they make one for wide body?? it uses the same tech just different size...

It is a tooling cost given the market size. However, with us showing there is a possiblity of break-even + profit then should be done already.

Seems Bosch 710N are recommended

If you can find a mechanic w a PIWIS they can check to see if the DME recognizes the immobilizer and key.

Buy a paired ECU/Immobilizer/etc from eBay and swap it all in.

Curious what the other 3 wires are!

Perhaps you can use a multimeter to discover which one shows a resistance to ground that would jive for a thermresistor. If you know where the footwell sensor is then maybe blast with hairdryer and see which wires changes?

Measure the one on the bumper as the outside temp sensor to get an idea for the range?

Did you go through the 2000 HVAC Schematic and find all other sensors except the footwell one?

I have a replacement motor $350 shipped

The LN tools have a slight bevel on of the faces for both intake/exhaust that make it a bit easier to install. JFP summerizes it well above, more for holding.

Are you timing a MK1 or MK2?

Or use an ATV jack w/ blocks of wood to bump up lifting height.

Gentlemen,

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dg6qm8srar6bpx7/996-paper1.png

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ld82xpzp0b877r0/996-engine_drop.png

Wow I spit my coffee out laughing at that first shot. Glad you were able to fix the issue. I'm in SJ also so let me know if you need any help.

Adding the elements is quite easy and going aftermarket w own wiring and relay is best. There are pads where you can cut holes and trim to fit the seat cushions. I used zip ties when reassembling where the hog rings were.

I will shoot you a PM of my instructions.

Buy new keyhead. You will end up spending way too much time if you have already checked normal failure reasons.

Any owner can get the iPAS codes for a car they own. However some dealerships make it a pain in the ***. (ie one refused and other it took me 3 min in person) Then use a PIWIS to code the keys (Keys need their own unique code on white tag attached when new)

Sent ya a PM. I could use a set of the old style car mounts.

If your windows properly drop when opening the door then I would agree the issue is likely with the aftermarket radio install.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/788923-post3.html

Don't move to CA

Just make sure you get an alignment done if adding spacers.

Have you checked to see if the plug is loose on the cab top controller under the back?

Edit: Reason why I bring it up is that the SmartTop device has the ability to affect how the rear windows operate, maybe there is a short there?

Flood damage car? Why are you having to rewire the windows?

I see you are in CA. If you are thinking of a Cabriolet I have mine listed for sale here in the bay area:

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/automobiles-sale/307561-02-cabriolet-blue-tan-nice-added-oem-parts.html

Well maintained with records and OEM turbo and GT3 styling.

Did your hook lose the plastic sleeve that activates the final switch? If you already opened the latch you can try and bend the microswitches a bit to ensure they activate.

-1 for selling copyrighted information for a profit.

The more I think about it, the timing should not have "jumped" unless the mechanic did NOT lock the cams which is a very simple process. Armed with the error codes it could have just been a simple replacement of the variocam plus actuators. (two on each bank ~$150)

Actually it is very likely the mechanic did lock the cams but was not familiar with the 02+ special process for replacing the tensioners and setting timing of the bank. You cannot just lock at TDC and pull + replace the tensioner and expect to have proper timing. You have to rotate to 60* prior to the TDC (OF THAT BANK!) when you are placing the tensioner. Then rotate to TDC to remove "slack" (created by the movement of the variocam plus vanes) from the chain as you are setting timing. Otherwise your variocam plus "mechanism" will not have the proper angle. (sorry if not making sense)

Again much easier on 99-01.

Resetting the timing on the 02+ engines is much more difficult that the earlier ones. Unless you want to fork out $1k just for the tools then get it towed to a mechanic. Sounds like the mechanic you used caused more harm than good. It is highly unlikely that the variocam plus mechanism wore out (guessing that's where the $7k figure came from). I am shocked that you didnt at least get error codes from the initial issue.